RMweb Premium Footy Posted November 15, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2019 Thank you for the clarification. Useful information. I haven't yet bought one of these but intend to because I think they represent very good value for money. Having said that, I recognise their shortcomings and, at the very least will replace the finial and the ladder. I'm then looking forward to a little research to see what else I need to do to get them closer to the prototype. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted November 15, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2019 (edited) On 05/11/2019 at 16:49, billtee said: Can anyone give me a clue for interlocking the new Dapol signals with DCC Concepts point motors? I have considered using the two switches built into the motors, but I cannot guarantee that the motor will always reach its ‘end of travel’ and so have both switches work (I have had problems with this in OO gauge, probably due to bad point motor mounting - you have to be exactly precise!). Bill The switches on the Cobalt point motor are SPDT changeover. It will always make in either direction. The switch is linked to the main output drive of the Cobalt - that always goes full travel - unless something jams in the slot where the drive arm moves (If the point isn't going full travel, then that;s probably something impeding the spring wire from the output of the Cobalt.) So if the O gauge signal works with a SPDT (unlike the strange idea of a single pushbutton of the 00 version) - it can easily (and reliably) be hooked up to a Cobalt motor. Cheers, Mick Edited November 15, 2019 by newbryford Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billtee Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 I have almost given up hope of ever seeing a GWR junction signal from Dapol - I will probably be ash (blasted from the chimney of a GWR loco?) before they are produced! Has anyone heard if Dapol are going to make them? In the meantime, I am trying my rather shaky hand at making one using Model Signal Engineering (MSE) bits. I made the tapered post OK, and the doll for the branch signal, but the instructions are rather ‘sketchy’, omitting to mention what I consider important information - which way to install the angle levers which change the ‘pull’ direction for the branch signal whose doll is out at the end of the platform. I have many books on the GWR, but signal photographs are usually far too dark to give me a clue. I have now read CJ Freezer’s book “Model Railway Signalling” and it was very useful, but even this book gives no clue as to the best way to fit the levers. I’ll do my ‘own thing’ which may work, but someone is sure to comment that I have mounted them incorrectly! I have discovered I need to be a mini-octopus to build the signal - two hands are just not enough! I have NOT soldered my signal components, because I don’t have a variable-temperature soldering iron, or indeed the three different melting point solders recommended by MSE, just the usual resin-cored stuff used by most electricians. I have used superglue (very carefully!) and (so far) everything seems to be going together OK. I had to think hard about how to get 12v to the top of the main post and to the top of the branch doll. I didn’t want two-core wires running down the post where anyone would see them (there are advantages in GWR tubular signal posts!), so finally I have used that self-adhesive copper tape, trimmed to about 1.5-2mm width. The tapes are laid on the back of the post, where they will be obscured by paint and the ladder eventually. I have used 2-core DCC wiring to get the power from the main post over to the branch doll. Anyway, I am having a break from modelling for a day or two to let my shaky hands and nerves settle down a bit! All the very best to you all, and thank you for all the support. Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 If the parts of the signal are brass then you only need one wire per light as the signal acts as the other wire, it’s brass. I use warm white LED’s with one leg soldered to the brass ‘oil lam’ it sits in and the other leg to a fine wire such as decoder wire. Drill a small hole in the brass post and feed the wire down inside the tube. If it’s a square post a very fine grove made with a slitting saw or scalpel for the wire to lay in then fill and sand it flat then paint white. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted November 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2019 I picked up a pack of Modelu finials from Warley today. They printed onto a square base which needs filing down carefully so just the scanned round base remains and then they can glued in place. Done my two signals tonight and pleased with the results. Cheers, Ade. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 (edited) Thats good news nice to see a photo if you can so we could compare with Dapols.... Cheers! Edited November 25, 2019 by Greenmodelmonkey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted November 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2019 I will post one up tonight. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted November 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2019 Here you go. They need another coat of paint. But this will give you some idea of how they look. Cheers, Ade. 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Nice! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Oliver Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 I installed a Dapol LMS home Signal last week. It worked fine for a few days but has now failed, seems like a mechanical problem in the control box with the arm jammed up. What is other peoples experience with these O signals? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted February 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 24, 2020 Hi Mike, I have installed my first one, but not wired it up yet. Cheers, Ade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 I got my LMS signal today (I really wanted LNER but there's no sign of it so I'll see about doing some cosmetic mods. At least it's upper quad.) and my first question was operation with DCC. I saw earlier mention of a Dapol device. In my Googling, I came across this: https://www.dcpexpress.com/Dapol-servo-semaphore-dual-signal-controller-p-821.html The Dapol branded device is also made by Train-Tech. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Anybody had this unconvincing non bounce? Does not bounce at all, more like a stutter. Very disappointing but no similar tales here? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Hello LaScala I had a similar issue when using a non regulated power transformer. A change to a regulated supply and it works correctly. Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 6 hours ago, norman said: Hello LaScala I had a similar issue when using a non regulated power transformer. A change to a regulated supply and it works correctly. Norman Thanks. I have tried both the DCC bus and 9vDC (I assume) regulated phone charge to no avail. Tower Models tell me they have had many returned. Have not seen a video of the Dapol signal working properly like these from model signal master Jon Fitness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Hi LaScala If the 9 volt DC was from a battery then I should send it back for replacement but if it was some other source then try a battery, as that's pure DC and the servo should work perfectly with that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted March 16, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 16, 2021 One trick with running wires up signals is to use enamelled wire which has an insulated coating ( think of coil windings ) ut is much thinner than sheathed insulation. You need to make much less of a groove down the mast. You asked about how to fit the levers does this help Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted May 26, 2022 Share Posted May 26, 2022 Got a call from Tower Models today, some of the bracket signals are in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted June 9, 2022 Share Posted June 9, 2022 Received two bracket signals today from Hattons - I'm impressed. They work on DC, AC and even DCC power so well done Dapol for getting it right. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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