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Bonsai RhB in Nm9


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I've been collecting the Nm(ish) Kato RhB range and decided I needed a test piece to run them in on and testsome ideas for the layout. I had a chunk of foam left from another project so that dictated the size of roughly 2.5 x 1.5ft.

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So I marked it out and cut the tunnel section into blocks my hotwire could get through so I could carve the tunnel as a lower level. The tunnel is a 8 piece 3D jigsaw ;)

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I started attacking it with the hotwire to get the basic shapes and two bridge blanks.

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The bridges are roughly cut out then card templates selotaped to the sides to guide the hotwire.

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I decided it needed a logo so 'borrowed' one of the superb RhB graphics ;)

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Edited by PaulRhB
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I'd drawn the rough idea out over a faded print of the foam block, with the track on it, to get it fixed in my head during the carving.

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I wanted a castle like the one seen in many photos so here is my version of Burgruine Campi

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The turrets were done by cutting a cross hatch on the top then chopping the top off to cut out the centre, then I glued it back together.

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The tunnel mouths were next, the basic shape as mocked up in card then used as a template to cut with the hotwire.

The basic arch is drawn in first with firm pressure from a pencil.

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then I add the random stonework,

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The arches of the viaduct took a while! ;)

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The blocks are craftfoam, blue is being replaced with grey but it’s identical. Small quantities in eBay under modelling foam or here at the supplier I’ve used twice.

https://www.panelsystems.co.uk/products/modelling-foam

 

The rocks are plaster, polyfilla, B&Q or Wickes own all as good as each other. I mix in a generous dollop of pva glue to help it stick and avoid cracking. I add a small bit of black emulsion, heaped teaspoon, to give it a light grey tinge. Mix to a stiff consistency so you can use a spatula or credit card to roughly cover the foam.

Distress the surface with a screwdriver to give something to key to and slap on the plaster.

Then get a pot of water and a inch or half inch brush and wet it. Stipple into the plaster so it creates the rough surface.

Keep the brush wet but not soaked. If it dries too much the plaster pulls up in little peaks, like icing, and falls over with sharp points, wet the brush and redo. Too wet and it goes too smooth, dry the brush and attack again ;)

It remains workable for 5-10 mins as the pva slows drying down a bit. I work on roughly one foot square to avoid it drying too fast.

Let it dry and it will lighten in colour considerably, apply very thin washes of black, grey and brown, transparent like squash drinks is about right, to suit relevant colour of rock.

It makes decent weathered rock and is fast. I also use rock moulds for more angular rocks with DAS clay for lightness.

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Funnily enough I’ve been looking at a this as a test for a Landwasser style viaduct as I have some scale drawings somewhere.

Can’t decide whether to go full size or scale it back a bit ;)

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Funnily enough I’ve been looking at a this as a test for a Landwasser style viaduct as I have some scale drawings somewhere.

Can’t decide whether to go full size or scale it back a bit ;)

If you want to try one in 1/22.5 and then don't know what to do with it...

 

Seriously though, I imagine even in N that's going to be quite a large structure.

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If you want to try one in 1/22.5 and then don't know what to do with it...

.

What? You’re not going to build in real stone? ;)

 

Seriously though, I imagine even in N that's going to be quite a large structure.

It is but it’d look great as a corner display in the living room :)
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Funnily enough I’ve been looking at a this as a test for a Landwasser style viaduct as I have some scale drawings somewhere.

Can’t decide whether to go full size or scale it back a bit ;)

Landwasser in full (scale) size is on my list too - laser cut probably.

 

Jon

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