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Bonsai RhB in Nm9


PaulRhB
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The tunnel mouths were next, the basic shape as mocked up in card then used as a template to cut with the hotwire.

The basic arch is drawn in first with firm pressure from a pencil.

attachicon.gif2018 NM micro 2 (13).JPG

 

then I add the random stonework,

attachicon.gif2018 NM micro 2 (14).jpg

 

The arches of the viaduct took a while! ;)

attachicon.gif2018 NM micro 2 (15).jpg

 

attachicon.gif2018 NM micro 2 (16).jpg

 

attachicon.gif2018 NM micro 2 (17).jpg

What an excellent way to do stonework! I'm stealing that idea! 

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What foam cutter do you use,  Paul?

 

I've seen some interesting cutting wands on ebay (item 223218188013) which look like they might be more verstatile to use than a wire in a frame.

 

Mark

Edited by 2mmMark
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What foam cutter do you use, Paul?

 

I've seen some interesting cutting wands on ebay (item 223218188013) which look like they might be more verstatile to use than a wire in a frame.

 

Mark

I used this one, I remove the U cutter frame from the base for freehand work.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253160438428

I have some other one ended cutters but they are v e r y slow compared to the wire. It has the advantage of being supported both ends and thinner so cuts faster. The single ended ones either need to be very hot or moved very slowly and it’s easy to wobble around a lot ;)

The canyon here was done with single end cutters http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110932-fiddletown-copperopolis-rr-in-hon30/?p=2889817

 

You also get a lot more fumes cutting slow so I’d want to do it outdoors.

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The MDS wagons are about 1mm too high so I shaved 0.8mm off the bogie boss to see if they still ran ok. Here is the difference it makes, only the right end was done as a test.

post-6968-0-87493800-1541953829_thumb.jpeg

 

Considering it all ran ok I carried on.

post-6968-0-77923700-1541953853_thumb.jpeg

 

post-6968-0-39910100-1541953929_thumb.jpeg

 

I also fitted the Kato bash container wagon with knuckle couplers.

post-6968-0-60554300-1541954008_thumb.jpeg

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On the MDS wagons I’m now fitting the couplings with the screw directly over the first axle as I found some tiny self tappers. It gives very good close coupling but you need to chamfer the edges of the coupler, file the top of the trip pin flush and carefully bend the bottoms of the air pipes so they don’t catch as the bogie swings.

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Ok don’t trim the bogie boss down too much or the bogie sideframes catch the frames! I had to make some 3mm plastic washers up to raise two back up a fraction ;)

 

Anyway here’s a bit of MDS indulgence showing Microtrains couplers also handle 150mm radius fine :)

 

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Paul do you have the artwork for that in digital form that you could share please?

 

Swiss NG strikes me as a good format for one of the asymmetric end profiles where one side of the line is down, and the other side the terrain rises sharply, with a track forming a contour.

 

Jon

Edited by jonhall
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The only problem with that is they can’t be reversed which I need for this idea. The artwork was sent to G&H as this,

45631104771_de7d6d1d8b_o.jpgBonsai RhB by -salisburyASC-

 

Which they rounded off the sharp edges of scenery to this

30729644967_d08b7fc612_o.jpgBonsai RhB ends by -salisburyASC-

 

All I did was sent the top drawing and Allen sent the other back for approval, note the dodgy position for the holes compared to the original where I changed the dimension but not the drawing. As with any plan though, don’t scale from drawing ;)

The end product was correct not by mistake :)

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My MDS ge4/4 has arrived and it’s currently running in.

 

MDS on the left and Kato on the right.

 

 

post-6968-0-84458500-1542672385_thumb.jpeg

 

post-6968-0-30859600-1542672405_thumb.jpeg

 

 

The detail is just a bit finer than the Kato one with separate handrails and a slightly finer roof. The Kato one is superior in two ways, the pantograph is slightly thinner and better coloured and the windows are slightly less prismatic. Paint is very nicely done and the running is virtually identical in quality to the Kato.

 

 

 

post-6968-0-81209300-1542672430_thumb.jpeg

 

So overall it’s very nicely done and runs well. The slightly finer detail means it is worth a bit more than the Kato one and the extra liveries are a bonus. Kato have the edge on price but to be honest the value for money is pretty much equal. I’ll happily mix both to get locos I’d like.

 

 Very well done MDS! :)

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It's all very nice indeed. I'll be modelling snow on my layout at some point so I'd be interested to know the method you used here.

 

Cheers ... Alan

Alan, it's just cheap plaster mixed up so it's fairly smooth like thick cream and mixed with a good dollop of pva. I slop it on then push a spatula in near the edges to get it to hang over at the edge. I then use a very wet 2 inch brush to pat it down and get rid of any peaks or creases. Once dry I paint it white with emulsion and sprinkle in the deluxe materials snowflakes to give it a powdery finish with a subtle sparkle.

 

I've been meaning to do a video so will try to do one next week, but no promises ;)

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I am currently making some circles of track to go round a Christmas tree for the local parish church's Christmas tree festival, with 0-16.5, H0m, 009  gauge narrow gauge and N trains making up the decorations, however I am fascinated at your small layout and have come across an internet group on Pinterest where plans and layout photos are uploaded.

 

There is a sketch saved by Ron Herendeen of a small multi level layout

 

post-1131-0-00942900-1542737672.jpg

 

It might be a N gauge plan, but I think it could be adapted for 009. For me both the multi level track and differing height viaducts coupled with the built up scenery disguising the continuous loops are all part of the charm

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Alan, it's just cheap plaster mixed up so it's fairly smooth like thick cream and mixed with a good dollop of pva. I slop it on then push a spatula in near the edges to get it to hang over at the edge. I then use a very wet 2 inch brush to pat it down and get rid of any peaks or creases. Once dry I paint it white with emulsion and sprinkle in the deluxe materials snowflakes to give it a powdery finish with a subtle sparkle.

 

I've been meaning to do a video so will try to do one next week, but no promises ;)

 

Thanks Paul, useful info.  I haven't decided yet on the amount of snow I'll model - ie deep snow or just a scattering.  I'll have a large area to do so probably just a smattering otherwise it could be onerous.  I may grab a tub of 'snow' when I'm at the Warley show this weekend.  

 

Cheers … Alan

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I may grab a tub of 'snow' when I'm at the Warley show this weekend.

 

Check eBay as I got mine for £8 brand new rather than the usual £14-15 in most shops. I used about a third of a tub on mine. It is incredibly fine like icing sugar and gets everywhere!

Here we go https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401014680325

 

I’m on stand C4 with my Lulworth Castle so if you see a 6ft plus tall chap with glasses say hello :)

 

I have been looking at MDSs site but funds are scarce at the moment so I am having to wait a bit before I can get some wagons, but the loco looks good! So added to the wish list.

I had a big clearout of US steam to fund it ;)
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Paul I hope the trial ends I cut reach you before you set off for Warley, otherise I might as well have hand carried them, but I didn't realise you were taking a layout until after I posted them.

 

as well as your standard I also had a play with an asymmetric version - this was only an experiment, I think it has shown me a couple of problems, but I got a bit carried away and cut quite a few before realising.

 

post-336-0-08772100-1542927452_thumb.jpg

 

The endplates have a little ball and socket at the outer edge to allow two boards to stack face to face - alas I've put this into the 150mm width, which further detracts from what I already feel is quite a narrow endplate. The idea seems to work alright, v2 might put the ball and socket outside the 150mm plate, and will probably extend the 'uphill' 'ball so it sits 100-150mm higher than the rear of the scenic, so there is at least 100mm of scenic height (actually unless the trees are set to deliberately nest, I will need 100mm for each half.). I wondered if I could then use this as the basis for a lighting pelmet?

 

post-336-0-56174500-1542927396_thumb.jpg

 

I realised I needed to leave some clearance for track, but it wasn't until I saw them together that I also remembered OHLE - as it turns out I think I've accidentally allowed for that, but there wouldn't be any clearance for trees on the scenery.

 

post-336-0-39961500-1542927414_thumb.jpg

 

I then modified the endplate to take a trackbed with a 'tongue'. The trackbed radius was chosen as 481mm and 45° to match one of the Kato standard pieces - I've never modelled in N to have a 'feel' for whats a reasonable radius, but 481 seemed quite generous compared to that in the GEX trainset. It can obviously be used as an 'inside or 'outside' curve

 

post-336-0-43761500-1542927422_thumb.jpg

 

post-336-0-79763400-1542927405_thumb.jpg

 

Jon

post-336-0-94113300-1542927442_thumb.jpg

Edited by jonhall
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