Heljan Class 25/3 O gauge

[chris coates]

Hi

Just received my Heljan class 25/3 and, once again, Heljan have cocked up. Such a shame as it's a lovely model, well moulded and painted, runs great and really looks the part except for that horrible thick dumpy headode lettering. I saw the test sample at Telford and explained that the headcode was wrong...obviously it wasn't important enough to correct. Heljan have completely changed the O gauge market, especially with diesels, and have produced some superb models,,,albeit many with incorrect bits. When they did the class 45 I thought they had, at last, got their act together as I couldn't really fault it but sadly they spoil the ship for "hapeth of tar" once again. Will they ever learn?

What do you think?...............

Photo attached if it works!!

[delticfan]

Agreed the head codes do spoil it but they are really easy to sort and precision labels would allow you to put your own on even uneven numbers etc. Don’t bother about taking the body off to get at them get some blue tack and stick to the Perspex and sharply pull it might take a few goes but they just pop out and then pull the offending stickers out, they do look sh..e I must admit.

[BlackRat]

The headcodes are a much easier fix than the wheels........!

[25901]

The headcodes are a much easier fix than the wheels........!

 

And that's true in real life too lol

[chris coates]

The headcodes are a much easier fix than the wheels........!

I know its not a major job sorting the headcodes but, to quote my friend Lenny, you shouldnt have to do it !! Same cost for correct ones and they have no excuse as there are loads of photos, etc. they could have checked them with.

By the way I use Precision labels for my headcodes. They are the best I have come across so far. Modellers may also like to know that Heljan have got a couple of the letters wrong...i.e.wrong font. Can't recall which ones now but If anyone is interested I will investigate it next week.

I'm not one who spends much time on forums, etc. (too busy modelling) so have I missed something regarding the wheels?

Thanks for your comments

[47606odin]

I know its not a major job sorting the headcodes but, to quote my friend Lenny, you shouldnt have to do it !! Same cost for correct ones and they have no excuse as there are loads of photos, etc. they could have checked them with.

By the way I use Precision labels for my headcodes. They are the best I have come across so far. Modellers may also like to know that Heljan have got a couple of the letters wrong...i.e.wrong font. Can't recall which ones now but If anyone is interested I will investigate it next week.

I'm not one who spends much time on forums, etc. (too busy modelling) so have I missed something regarding the wheels?

Thanks for your comments

 

 

no holes

[chris coates]

no holes

OK. Another Heljan cockup but I must admit I hadn't noticed and that's probably because it's not as obvious to me.

Having now looked I see what you are saying but I can live with it....but not the horrible headcodes

[chris coates]

OK. Another Heljan cockup but I must admit I hadn't noticed and that's probably because it's not as obvious to me.

Having now looked I see what you are saying but I can live with it....but not the horrible headcodes

Decided to check the earlier class 25/1 headcodes and they are actually much better and almost accurate

Worrying that, even with the same class of loco, there is no consistency of standards within Heljan

Such a shame when they produce good stuff at a decent price

If someone at Heljan spent some time studying their proposed model and the real thing they would be able to see what was right and what was obviously wrong. It's not rocket science....just being thorough.

Also a pity when they are told, prior to release, that it's wrong but choose not to correct it....NO EXCUSE

[Hal Nail]

Related to this so may as well ask here, any views on the best replacement transfers? I’ve tried precision labels on my peak which are done on translucent film but ironically I preferred the look of the Heljan originals

[delticfan]

Decided to check the earlier class 25/1 headcodes and they are actually much better and almost accurate

Worrying that, even with the same class of loco, there is no consistency of standards within Heljan

Such a shame when they produce good stuff at a decent price

If someone at Heljan spent some time studying their proposed model and the real thing they would be able to see what was right and what was obviously wrong. It's not rocket science....just being thorough.

Also a pity when they are told, prior to release, that it's wrong but choose not to correct it....NO EXCUSEclass 25 fronts.jpg

Don’t worry Heljan aren’t the only ones who can’t get headcodes right, Laurie Loveless made a similar mess of the Deltics. I do like precision labels though they are correct and you can decide how much of a letter or number you have on show. I’ll post some pics if you want. Getting them right changes the look of the model.

[Bezzy Oppo]

Well transmission has failed on mine after moving two feet. Nasty noises ☹️

[Hal Nail]

I do like precision labels though they are correct and you can decide how much of a letter or number you have on show.

 

Did you bother with their self adhesive "frame" over the top? I found with both the see through bit of the frame, plus the thick plastic Heljan "glass", the numerals were too faint. Brian Daniels tip is to use Fox transfers numerals on a black background and then photocopy it and trim the paper version to fit in place of the original Heljan. 

[delticfan]

Did you bother with their self adhesive "frame" over the top? I found with both the see through bit of the frame, plus the thick plastic Heljan "glass", the numerals were too faint. Brian Daniels tip is to use Fox transfers numerals on a black background and then photocopy it and trim the paper version to fit in place of the original Heljan.

 

Yes I used the frame as a guide, it does take a little getting used to but worked for me. I tried the backlit ones but preferred the ordinary headcodes.

[BlackRat]

The headcodes can be fixed in a matter of moments.

 

What about the wheels.....completely wrong yet no ones bothered and that's a bigger issue than the headcodes?

[Hal Nail]

The headcodes can be fixed in a matter of moments.

 

What about the wheels.....completely wrong yet no ones bothered and that's a bigger issue than the headcodes?

I’ve had a theory for ages that we all have bits of a loco that define the character - and if they are wrong, boy does it bug you!

 

I can honestly say I’ve never looked at the wheels. I rarely look at the sides in any great detail (although I have just removed an un-required panel off my peak) but the face really has to be right for me.

Edited November 9, 2018 by Hal Nail

[chris coates]

I’ve had a theory for ages that we all have bits of a loco that define the character - and if they are wrong, boy does it bug you!

 

I can honestly say I’ve never looked at the wheels. I rarely look at the sides in any great detail (although I have just removed an un-required panel off my peak) but the face really has to be right for me.

You are absolutely right there. As an ex trainspotter (there I've confessed it now) the numbers and headcodes are always a major focal point for me. I've seen some superb models with blatantly incorrect numbers. Wrong font, far too much space between numbers, not level, too high/low. A year or so ago I contacted Fox regarding their diesel numerals. I dont know if they have changed them but I had a warship diesel that the builder had used fox numerals and they were far too thick. I sent them a comparison photo showing my model and the real thing and, although they agreed with my point, they said it wasn't practical to change them as they wouldn't then be compatible with the existing range. I get their point but if they are wrong then when do you correct this?  I now use Modelmaster (Jackson Evans) which are superb.

 

For the headcodes I use precision and utilise the frame and the transparent numbers as I want the headcodes to show when backlit. Surely that's the point in having LED headcodes but please let's have the correct tint. Originally Heljan were quite bluey (on the western) but they do seem to have got a lot better with the class 45 and 25. As the original locos were fitted with light bulbs the correct shade should be off white or warm white but beware as some "warm white" have a pink tint. I have changed the lights on both my Hymek and class 37 and they look right and cost peanuts. Sometimes I add more resistance as you dont want them too bright.

[chris coates]

You are absolutely right there. As an ex trainspotter (there I've confessed it now) the numbers and headcodes are always a major focal point for me. I've seen some superb models with blatantly incorrect numbers. Wrong font, far too much space between numbers, not level, too high/low. A year or so ago I contacted Fox regarding their diesel numerals. I dont know if they have changed them but I had a warship diesel that the builder had used fox numerals and they were far too thick. I sent them a comparison photo showing my model and the real thing and, although they agreed with my point, they said it wasn't practical to change them as they wouldn't then be compatible with the existing range. I get their point but if they are wrong then when do you correct this?  I now use Modelmaster (Jackson Evans) which are superb.

 

For the headcodes I use precision and utilise the frame and the transparent numbers as I want the headcodes to show when backlit. Surely that's the point in having LED headcodes but please let's have the correct tint. Originally Heljan were quite bluey (on the western) but they do seem to have got a lot better with the class 45 and 25. As the original locos were fitted with light bulbs the correct shade should be off white or warm white but beware as some "warm white" have a pink tint. I have changed the lights on both my Hymek and class 37 and they look right and cost peanuts. Sometimes I add more resistance as you dont want them too bright.

Forgot to add...originally my 25/3 wouldn't run and was immediately exchanged. The fault was the drive shaft had come away. I tried to replace it but it kept coming off and eventually I sussed that a piece of the drive coupling was broken. Makes you wonder just what these delivery people do with these parcels...football?

[w124bob]

I've just checked the ex JLTRT Class 25 and that uses Slaters B7845 disck wheels too. Whilst it's not perfect I can live with disc wheels and the proportions look right(dealer breaker on the 20),the headcode is something I would customize anyway.

[Airport2010]

Well transmission has failed on mine after moving two feet. Nasty noises ☹️

Same. Took mine to the club layout but unlike yours I got a good 20 feet of movement before something went ‘ping’ inside the loco!

After body removal, one of the two driveshafts had separated itself from the universal joint at the bogie end. Items rejoined together but the fit between the two plastic components is poor, and as soon as the drive shaft began to rotate it happened again. Been onto Antics (who are excellent) and will swap the loco for another.

 

Just really glad I hadn’t started the DCC conversion and this proves the wisdom of testing on DC while locos are brand new.

 

Just a case of either poor quality components or fit (or a combination of both).

[chris coates]

I had the same problem with one of mine however, after putting the drive shaft bits together THREE times, I discovered a small piece of the coupling was missing. I took the loco back to the supplier for a swap.

Shame these £500+ locos have such cheap bits in them, especially the drive units which are critical.

Had a closer look at my old Bachmann class 25 and all gearing is metal and it's still giving good service well over a decade later....enough said!

[Airport2010]

I had the same problem with one of mine however, after putting the drive shaft bits together THREE times, I discovered a small piece of the coupling was missing. I took the loco back to the supplier for a swap.

Shame these £500+ locos have such cheap bits in them, especially the drive units which are critical.

Had a closer look at my old Bachmann class 25 and all gearing is metal and it's still giving good service well over a decade later....enough said!

Useful info there Chris. I’ll point out the possible missing coupling piece to the supplier when exchanging.

[Art Dent]

Hi Folks,

 

A couple of queries about this model if I may.

 

1)  I wish to put a driver in both ends.  Modelu3d have two seated diesel drivers - 1105-043 and 1127-043 (this latter figure specifically labelled 'Class 24 Driver').

 

 

Which is correct (or should I say 'more correct' ?) for the Class 25 -  is it #1105 or #1127?

 

2) I would like the tail lights to be switchable via a function key and direction-dependent cab lighting - also switchable via a function key.  Obviously the headcode should be direction-dependent and separate from the cab lighting. 

 

Hornby Modeller January 2019 (issue 139, pages 94-99) intimated that this requires some modification to the circuitry and/or fabrication of a separate circuit for part of this.

 

Desk lighting linked to the headcode would be fab.  Given that the headocde lighting has been separated from the cab lighting - this is a simple enough addition/modification - correct?

 

Just what is possible without modifying the model egarding lighting and secondly, how easy is it to make the necessary modifications?

 

As per the HM article, it would be nice to retain the electrically-operated fan via F15 by connecting the brown wire to function output 5 and altering the following CVs in the ZS25ASL sound-scheme:  CV448 = 15, CV450 = 5 and CV452 = 5.

 

Thanks in advance folks.

 

Happy Easter!

 

Art

 

 

Edited April 13, 2019 by Art Dent

[brian daniels]

Looks like the 24 driver has my hand up slightly higher? Ouch!

[Art Dent]

Hi Brian,

 

Can you answer the question as nobody else seems to know?

 

Which of the two is more suited to the control desk of a 25 - is it #1105 or #1127?

 

Thanks in anticipation,

 

Art

[brian daniels]

I don't honestly know Art. I posed for 1105 just guessing where a power handle might be. I take it Modelu have moved my arm for 1127 to match a class 24 power consul?