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Scratch Building Coach Sides


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I have started a new project which involves scratch building a number of enclosed coaches - the nearest scale description would be 009.  I have used second-hand Lima N gauge coach chassis (120mm long) and am making the sides from plasticard. The divisiions between doors and side panels have been marked with pencil during the cutting procedure for window aperatures.  Once the sides are painted, those marks will disappear, even if not erased prior to painting.  Clearly I would like to reinstate those divisions/crevices and feel that the easiest solution would be to scratch them into the surface before painting, then overpaint with a dark wash which is immediately removed from elsewhere.

 

In practising with a piece of scrap, I am having difficulty making appropriate scratch marks;  if I use my cutting scalpel, the cuts are very narrow and run the risk of cutting right through; if I scratch with a tiny screwdriver, the marks are not deep enough  Can anyone suggest a tool that will do what I want?  The alternative would be to paint the marks over the livery but I think in my hands that woould be a disaster!  I plan to paint the livery in BR crimson and cream in Humbrol enamels using a brush.  Incidentally, on-screen, Humbrol cream looks more like ivory - there doesn't appear to be a correct shade. - Just found Phoenix P117 which looks better.

 

Any guidance much appreciated.

 

Harold.

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A popular method in smaller scales is to use a scraperboard pen and nib. It's like an old fashioned pen and nib except the nib has a vee shaped cutting edge. If you use it nearly upright you will scrape a thin line if swarf out and leave a uniform cut. I find 3 light cuts works well in 4mm scale.

 

Good luck.

 

Vernon

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I have started a new project which involves scratch building a number of enclosed coaches - the nearest scale description would be 009.  I have used second-hand Lima N gauge coach chassis (120mm long) and am making the sides from plasticard. The divisiions between doors and side panels have been marked with pencil during the cutting procedure for window aperatures.  Once the sides are painted, those marks will disappear, even if not erased prior to painting.  Clearly I would like to reinstate those divisions/crevices and feel that the easiest solution would be to scratch them into the surface before painting, then overpaint with a dark wash which is immediately removed from elsewhere.

 

In practising with a piece of scrap, I am having difficulty making appropriate scratch marks;  if I use my cutting scalpel, the cuts are very narrow and run the risk of cutting right through; if I scratch with a tiny screwdriver, the marks are not deep enough  Can anyone suggest a tool that will do what I want?  The alternative would be to paint the marks over the livery but I think in my hands that woould be a disaster!  I plan to paint the livery in BR crimson and cream in Humbrol enamels using a brush.  Incidentally, on-screen, Humbrol cream looks more like ivory - there doesn't appear to be a correct shade. - Just found Phoenix P117 which looks better.

 

Any guidance much appreciated.

 

Harold.

Hi

 

Do you know anyone with a Silhoutte Curio cutter?

 

The sides could then be produced using it and the cutter can do etching (scribing) in plastic. I have just used one to make a roof for a wagon which is similar to a roller shutter door. 

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Gentlemen - thank you.

 

I am using a 10a scalpel blade but I imagine it will work just as well.  May as well try it before seeking out a scraperboard pen.

 

Paul, I had to look up Silhouette Curio cutter - not something I have come across before.  An interesting thing to investigate at a later date I think.

 

Thanks again,

Harold.

Edited by HLT 0109
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If I have to scribe accurately on white plasticard or similar I give it a coat of light grey rattle can primer first. Makes the scribes or pencil marks easier to see and seems to make the surface less slippy which helps too. 

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I use a scrawker tool for my plasticard coaches - scrawkers are specifically designed to scribe fine lines in plastic and metal. Mine makes consistent panel and door indentations and removes unwanted plastic from the grooves without creating the raised edges on either side of the scribed lines that you can get in with some other tools. I think I ordered mine from Eileen's Emporium. Might be worth a try unless you are using very thin (5 or 10 thou) plasticard, in which case you would need to be very careful not to cut right through.

 

David

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If I have to scribe accurately on white plasticard or similar I give it a coat of light grey rattle can primer first. Makes the scribes or pencil marks easier to see and seems to make the surface less slippy which helps too.

 

What a good idea! Wish I'd seen this before starting my latest carriage project.

Kubes

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Nick - Used a broken blade in the manner you described and now have some well-defined lines.  It remains to be seen how it looks after painting but not ready to do that yet.

 

Dave John - I am using grey platicard with one matt and one slik finish side - my scribing is on the matt side.

 

DavidB and Neil - thanks you for the tips.  I see that Eileen's Emporium has the Scrawker for £8 and that the Trumpeter tool is £4.49.  Not heard of them before so very useful information

 

Thank you all.

Harold.

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Nick - Used a broken blade in the manner you described and now have some well-defined lines.  It remains to be seen how it looks after painting but not ready to do that yet.

 

Dave John - I am using grey platicard with one matt and one slik finish side - my scribing is on the matt side.

 

DavidB and Neil - thanks you for the tips.  I see that Eileen's Emporium has the Scrawker for £8 and that the Trumpeter tool is £4.49.  Not heard of them before so very useful information

 

Thank you all.

Harold.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/OLFA-Pc-s-11mm-Standard-Duty-Plastic-Laminate-Cutter-Knife-Utility-Japan/5019155095?iid=153015424261&chn=ps

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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