14xx Finescale Replacement Chassis

[Chris Higgs]

Hi Everyone

 

I hope Paul won't mind me high jacking his thread but since we are both building this chassis kit it seems to make sense to share questions and problems.

 

When I wrote the last post, I thought everything was going smoothly but after this morning I'm seriously beginning to doubt my sanity.

 

I fitted the worm and motor but when adding power the running was really noisy and the worm seemed to be vibrating badly, sort of moving backwards and forwards.

 

I looked at the skew cut gear and eventually compared it to the ones I had used on a couple of David Eveleigh 45xx chassis.  Looking at it edge on, the teeth angle down from top left to bottom right (whichever way round or whichever way up you look at the chassis, it will always be the same).  Looking at the other gears I  had used, they are all angled down from top right to bottom left.

 

The gear came from set 3-364.  Is it possible that a batch has been received that are cut sort of back to front - or as I mentioned earlier, am I going insane?

 

Thanks

 

John

 

IIRC, yes it was discussed somewhere (here or groups.io) and there as a batch with the wormwheels cut incorrectly.

 

Chris

[2mm Andy]

Hi Everyone

 

I hope Paul won't mind me high jacking his thread but since we are both building this chassis kit it seems to make sense to share questions and problems.

 

When I wrote the last post, I thought everything was going smoothly but after this morning I'm seriously beginning to doubt my sanity.

 

I fitted the worm and motor but when adding power the running was really noisy and the worm seemed to be vibrating badly, sort of moving backwards and forwards.

 

I looked at the skew cut gear and eventually compared it to the ones I had used on a couple of David Eveleigh 45xx chassis.  Looking at it edge on, the teeth angle down from top left to bottom right (whichever way round or whichever way up you look at the chassis, it will always be the same).  Looking at the other gears I  had used, they are all angled down from top right to bottom left.

 

The gear came from set 3-364.  Is it possible that a batch has been received that are cut sort of back to front - or as I mentioned earlier, am I going insane?

 

Thanks

 

John

 

John,

 

Sorry for the problems you have experienced. If you haven't already done so, please contact Tony Simms (Association Sales Officer) regarding this. We are aware that a batch of rogue gears was received from the suppliers and are currently awaiting replacement gears from them.

 

Regards,

 

Andy

(2mm Scale Association Secretary)

[John Brenchley]

John,

 

Sorry for the problems you have experienced. If you haven't already done so, please contact Tony Simms (Association Sales Officer) regarding this. We are aware that a batch of rogue gears was received from the suppliers and are currently awaiting replacement gears from them.

 

Regards,

 

Andy

(2mm Scale Association Secretary)

 

Thanks Andy - I'll contact Tony

 

Best wishes

 

John

[Fingers]

John,

 

No problems with the slight hi-jack of thread, one persons pain is another's gain!

 

Back to the grindstone as they say, and if I've used my new fangled multi-meter correctly (I am passed out at wiring plugs and changing light bulbs only!) then I am pleased to announce the happy union of two chassis halves!

 

 

A further slight pause will now occur whilst I check if I ordered the 30:1 gear set. I'd also like to check from those with the knowledge about the 14/16 gears. I think I need the 3.0 (shop parts 3-385 & 3-386) rather than the 4.0 ones as one is out of stock at the moment.

 

Looking forward beyond putting the wheels on my wagon, I'm starting to think about the outside framing and details. There don't appear to be any axlebox/springs or sanding boxes. Not having made any effort to strip down the existing locomotive, an I missing something or does one re-use from locomotive?

 

Paul

[2mm Andy]

John,

 

No problems with the slight hi-jack of thread, one persons pain is another's gain!

 

Back to the grindstone as they say, and if I've used my new fangled multi-meter correctly (I am passed out at wiring plugs and changing light bulbs only!) then I am pleased to announce the happy union of two chassis halves!

 

14xx_4.jpg

 

A further slight pause will now occur whilst I check if I ordered the 30:1 gear set. I'd also like to check from those with the knowledge about the 14/16 gears. I think I need the 3.0 (shop parts 3-385 & 3-386) rather than the 4.0 ones as one is out of stock at the moment.

 

Looking forward beyond putting the wheels on my wagon, I'm starting to think about the outside framing and details. There don't appear to be any axlebox/springs or sanding boxes. Not having made any effort to strip down the existing locomotive, an I missing something or does one re-use from locomotive?

 

Paul

 

Paul,

 

The instructions are not very clear, but I think you need the M0.4 gears for this chassis. Note that the Mod 0.3 gears are not directly interchangeable with the Mod 0.4 gears. The meshing centres of the 16t and 14t M0.4 gears are 6.13mm, whereas the 16t and 14t M0.3 gears have meshing centres of 4.63mm. You could chose a different set of gears to get a similar meshing centres, but you'd have to check that they were not going to clash with anything else on the chassis.

 

There is a useful gear calculator on the 2mm website;

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/gear_calc.htm

 

As regards axleboxes, there are some GWR whitemetal tender axleboxes (3-526) in Shop 3 that others have used.

 

Andy

Edited November 22, 2018 by 2mm Andy

[Chris Higgs]

Ba

 

Paul,

 

The instructions are not very clear, but I think you need the M0.4 gears for this chassis. Note that the Mod 0.3 gears are not directly interchangeable with the Mod 0.4 gears. The meshing centres of the 16t and 14t M0.4 gears are 6.13mm, whereas the 16t and 14t M0.3 gears have meshing centres of 4.63mm. You could chose a different set of gears to get a similar meshing centres, but you'd have to check that they were not going to clash with anything else on the chassis.

 

There is a useful gear calculator on the 2mm website;

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/gear_calc.htm

 

As regards axleboxes, there are some GWR whitemetal tender axleboxes (3-526) in Shop 3 that others have used.

 

Andy

 

Back in the day, there was only one range of gears - the 64DP. The M0.4 have replaced these, although the meshing centres are not identical. So 3-385 and 3-386.

 

You can use M0.3 instead, you need 18:22 ratio so 3-392 and 3-394.

 

Note: you can still purchase the 64DP spur gears here http://ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/CAT015#SGP2 including the 13 tooth gear that gives a better reduction ratio

 

Chris

Edited November 23, 2018 by Chris Higgs

[John Brenchley]

The good news is that I've heard that the replacement skew cut gear is on its way from the Northern to Southern hemispheres so I now have to think about getting the old one off.

 

Unfortunately the size of the drive wheels means that they slightly cover the end of the shaft on which the gear is situated so it looks as if I'll have to remove the wheels first.

 

They were fitted using one of the Association wheel quartering tools so are a tight fit on the muffs.  I fear that any attempt to pull the wheels off will either damage the wheels of even worse, distort the frames so I'm after some guidance please.

 

Many other threads and articles that I've read make reference to using a soldering iron to melt the muffs.  This sounds fine in theory put could I ask for some detailed "how to" in practice notes from those who have done it.  There will be very little of the muff accessable as it contains a spur gear on it.  Does the muff have to be completely melted away or does heat allow the wheel to loosen within it?

 

I'd like to get some advice before I take a hot iron anywhere near what is currently a smoothly working chassis.

 

Thanks very much

 

John

[Chris Higgs]

The good news is that I've heard that the replacement skew cut gear is on its way from the Northern to Southern hemispheres so I now have to think about getting the old one off.

 

Unfortunately the size of the drive wheels means that they slightly cover the end of the shaft on which the gear is situated so it looks as if I'll have to remove the wheels first.

 

They were fitted using one of the Association wheel quartering tools so are a tight fit on the muffs.  I fear that any attempt to pull the wheels off will either damage the wheels of even worse, distort the frames so I'm after some guidance please.

 

Many other threads and articles that I've read make reference to using a soldering iron to melt the muffs.  This sounds fine in theory put could I ask for some detailed "how to" in practice notes from those who have done it.  There will be very little of the muff accessable as it contains a spur gear on it.  Does the muff have to be completely melted away or does heat allow the wheel to loosen within it?

 

I'd like to get some advice before I take a hot iron anywhere near what is currently a smoothly working chassis.

 

Thanks very much

 

John

 

It was indeed the recommended method of Bill Blackburn. I would attack the muff to the sides of the gear. The muff will not conduct heat, so there is little chance of things becoming detached from the chassis, provided you ensure that you are not inadvertently touching other stuff whilst you do it.

 

Chris

[Caley Jim]

Another way to try, which will not destroy the muff, is to I insert a small screwdriver between the wheel and frame on one side, as close to the axle as possible, and gently twist it to ease the wheel out. Once you have it out enough insert the tips of a pair of tweezers either side of the axle and continue levering gently. It depends how tight the axle is in the muff how easy this will be, but probably better to do it on the side away from the gear first. It's worked for me in the past.

 

Jim

Edited January 11, 2019 by Caley Jim

[John Brenchley]

Thanks for your suggestions Chris and Jim.

 

I may be able to get away with only removing one wheel so perhaps the Jim method is worth a try.

 

Best wishes'

 

John

[Chris Higgs]

Thanks for your suggestions Chris and Jim.

 

I may be able to get away with only removing one wheel so perhaps the Jim method is worth a try.

 

Best wishes'

 

John

 

Hmm, am I allowed to disagree with someone as eminent as Jim? Better watch out that you do not end up with a twisted frame given that is only 0.25mm thick and a lot less beefy then either the wheel or the muff. Hence which is going to bend first? I would make sure you have the muff tight up against the inside of the frame if you try this.

 

Chris

[Caley Jim]

Hmm, am I allowed to disagree with someone as eminent as Jim? Better watch out that you do not end up with a twisted frame given that is only 0.25mm thick and a lot less beefy then either the wheel or the muff. Hence which is going to bend first? I would make sure you have the muff tight up against the inside of the frame if you try this.

 

Chris

That's why I say to keep both the screwdriver and the tweezers as close as possible to the axle, so that you're levering against the bearing and behind it, the muff. You have to be very gentle and ' feel ' for movement.

 

Jim