Putty/filler

[kandc_au]

Question all,

What do you use as a filler when doing cut and shuts?
I have seen Milliput mentioned.

I have been using Tamiya, but wondered if there was anything better for the job.
I find the Tamiya has a very short work period.

 

Khris

[Phil Bullock]

Tried Squadron Putty on my recent MK1 BFK but its not man enough for the job.

 

Used miliput where I had to fill a window in and that was much better so will try that next time

 

Phil

[ColinK]

Another vote for Milliput

[KalKat]

Allsorts, car body filler,squadron white or milliput. Depends what I'm filling. The general rule is that the filler should be softer than the substrate if it needs sanding back though.

 

 

Emma

[hayfield]

I use Green Squadron for small gaps, quite often thinning it with Humbrol Liquid Poly, Also use Milliput for both larger jobs and those which require shaping and difficult to sand

 

In both cases I leave then 24 hours to set thoroughly before sanding 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Milliput has a knockout advantage over all other fillers for modelling purposes.

 

Before it cures it can be worked with water to create a polished surface. Ideal when filling to match a smooth surface profile. No need for any abrasive work post curing, with all the risk of damaging what were good surfaces. Apply, profile, allow to cure, job's a goodun. The technique does need practice, but once mastered you will never look elsewhere.

 

I have been impressed with its thermal resistance and general durability in 'real life' applications too. Among other tool repairs, new handles for soldering irons, and I have used it to put plugs into the hollow handles of stupidly designed saucepans (of excellent materials quality) which would otherwise burn the user when employed on a gas stove. These modified pans are used in cooking very regularly and typically thereby both of them go in the dishwasher twice a week: the plugs haven't degraded after several years of this treatment.

 

Bonus which may apply to some. Get the Terracotta one (which usefully looks like rust if paint is scratched off) and you can also near invisibly fix any damage to garden terracotta planters and the like. Maximum brownie points from Madam enthusiast gardener.

[kandc_au]

Milliput has a knockout advantage over all other fillers for modelling purposes.

 

Before it cures it can be worked with water to create a polished surface. Ideal when filling to match a smooth surface profile. No need for any abrasive work post curing, with all the risk of damaging what were good surfaces. Apply, profile, allow to cure, job's a goodun. The technique does need practice, but once mastered you will never look elsewhere.

 

I have been impressed with its thermal resistance and general durability in 'real life' applications too. Among other tool repairs, new handles for soldering irons, and I have used it to put plugs into the hollow handles of stupidly designed saucepans (of excellent materials quality) which would otherwise burn the user when employed on a gas stove. These modified pans are used in cooking very regularly and typically thereby both of them go in the dishwasher twice a week: the plugs haven't degraded after several years of this treatment.

 

Bonus which may apply to some. Get the Terracotta one (which usefully looks like rust if paint is scratched off) and you can also near invisibly fix any damage to garden terracotta planters and the like. Maximum brownie points from Madam enthusiast gardener.

Hi,

Do you get much if any shrinkage with Milliput?

Khris

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

No shrinkage with Milliput that I have observed. It's got some elasticity too. It took some years of the regular thermal cycling on the stove combined with hot drenchings in the dishwasher in the saucepan application before the adhesion to the stainless steel failed (the plug remains mechanically trapped in place by the shape of the metal work). Considering I hadn't been able to prepare the metal surface inside the saucepan handle, that seems pretty good to me.

[robert17649]

only problem with Milliput is inadequate mixing it really must be kneaded for 15 or more minutes, great fo arthritic fingers , or it will not set as quickly as it says it does ,usually i have found it to set in 48hrs though

[sharris]

 car body filler

 

 

You might need to be careful with some of these. SWMBO gave me some left-over that she got from Halfords for her car repair. Some types are of a plastic-in-solvent variety and I managed to melt a bit of the surface I was trying to fill with it. 

Edited November 8, 2018 by sharris

[lofty1966]

Question all,

What do you use as a filler when doing cut and shuts?

I have seen Milliput mentioned.

I have been using Tamiya, but wondered if there was anything better for the job.

I find the Tamiya has a very short work period.

 

Khris

You have to be quick but you can mix liquid poly with it to extend its cure time

[Karhedron]

I normally use Halfords car body filler (I think it is properly called knifing putty but I am not sure). Easy to work and good finish when dry. I haven't experienced problems with it affecting plastic but I may have been lucky and not used it on plastic that is susceptible.

[Torper]

only problem with Milliput is inadequate mixing it really must be kneaded for 15 or more minutes, great fo arthritic fingers , or it will not set as quickly as it says it does ,usually i have found it to set in 48hrs though

I don't knead it for anything like as long as that, probably only for two or three minutes if that, and it sets solid overnight. Maybe best leave it for 24 hours if you're going to sand or work on it in some way. Mind you, I only tend to deal with small amounts at a time.

 

DT

[jukebox]

Aero modellers in the US swear by a 3M product called Acryl glazing putty, because of the fine grain size of the particles; the Blue version used to be the gold standard, but they stopped making it.  Now I understand the red or the white are the go-to.

 

It is expensive, however, if you can find it, as it only seems to come in large tubes.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[newbryford]

Another vote for Squadron green or white.

 

If at all possible, minimise the amount of filler required by blanking/filling with solid material. For example, styrene sheet infills. I've used offcuts of the cut and shut donors before now. There are other similar examples on my WB thread.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[RedGemAlchemist]

I use car filler. Probably alone in that respect.

[ColinK]

Another vote for Squadron green or white.

 

Cheers,

Mick

Is there any difference between green and white, except for the colour?

[Il Grifone]

For polystyrene, I always use kit sprue dissolved in Mek-Pak or similar. It comes in various colours and it you are modifying a kit, there is a supply of exactly the right shade. Once dried, it files and cuts exactly like the material that has been filled.

 

For other materials, there is car body filler. There are various types. I find the best is the two part plastic metal type. This used to be found in pound shops, but I haven't seen it recently. I bought some of the 'easy sand' type recently (in QD - usual disclaimer) but it seems to be rather too soft. (Am I doing something wrong?)

 

I had stocks, but it seems to have all gone off as it no longer sets hard, Does anyone know why? or is it just past its 'sell by' date'? There is nothing on the various packets about shelf life. (I have had it for several years.)

[Siberian Snooper]

For shallow areas, I use correction fluid, it dries in a few minutes "cuppa time", for other places I use Milliput or Squadron Green as required.

[Unicorn1]

I normally use Halfords car body filler (I think it is properly called knifing putty but I am not sure). Easy to work and good finish when dry. I haven't experienced problems with it affecting plastic but I may have been lucky and not used it on plastic that is susceptible.

Another vote for knifing putty - I use it for filling gaps in white metal kits - but it also worked fine for filling in the 'extra' windows on my B Set. 

 

Les

[PatB]

To thoroughly mix the 2 part types like Milliput, squash the two bits together and roll into a sausage. Fold in half and roll into a sausage again. Repeat 20 or 30 times (doesn't take all that long) and the average size of any unmixed lump is getting down to the size of an individual molecule of stuff. Beware though, as the very thorough mixing afforded by this method can shorten cure time a bit, as I discovered the first time I used it.

[robert17649]

Another vote for knifing putty - I use it for filling gaps in white metal kits - but it also worked fine for filling in the 'extra' windows on my B Set. 

 

Les

thanks maybe thats my problem, not mixing properly rather than not mixing enough!

thanks maybe thats my problem, not mixing properly rather than not mixing enough!

sorry meant to reply to patb post 21

[spikey]

For polystyrene, I always use kit sprue dissolved in Mek-Pak or similar. It comes in various colours and it you are modifying a kit, there is a supply of exactly the right shade. Once dried, it files and cuts exactly like the material that has been filled.

 

Care to share exactly how 'tis done?  Is it just a case of a splash of solvent in a small glass container, add some chopped up sprue, stir until dissolved, then repeat until you have a goo of suitable consistency, or what? 

[kandc_au]

Further to this.
How hard is it in the package. I have a box of it but am unsure whether I bought it 7 years ago while in the Uk or later and have found it hardish with one lot with like a crust on it! (colour..terracotta) It feels dried out...is this correct or out of date?

 

Khris

[kandc_au]

Care to share exactly how 'tis done?  Is it just a case of a splash of solvent in a small glass container, add some chopped up sprue, stir until dissolved, then repeat until you have a goo of suitable consistency, or what? 

My experience of doing this is that it tends to dry out the joint and make the surrounding plastic brittle!

There again there are plastics and plastics I suppose.

Hence I haven't tried it on these coaches I am currently working on.

 

Khris