Suzie Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 Once the smoke has come out just leave it alone as long as everything is still working. As you have sent it back the new loco should be fine. Leave all alone if running on DC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 Thanks Suzie. Is it worth my while removing the capacitor, and either leaving it off, or replacing it with something else? The capacitor is to suppress interference with TV signals etc so it should not be removed unless there is something else that provides the suppression such as a dcc decoder. The one in the photo provided by Neil is clearly a ceramic capacitor rather than a tantalum; those are polarity dependent so will go bang very quickly once reverse voltage is applied to them. The 104 marking indicating that its capacitance is 100nF. A motor struggling will be drawing more power and with the capacitor directly across the motor terminals the point can be reached where the current across the capacitor exceeds its capabilities. Might be worth doing the mod Right Away suggests. Wondering if this issue is the reason the Collectors Club one has been delayed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted November 15, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 15, 2018 The one in the photo provided by Neil is clearly a ceramic capacitor rather than a tantalum; those are polarity dependent so will go bang very quickly once reverse voltage is applied to them. Are you suggesting that this is an electrolytic capacitor? It doesn't look like one from the photo in the post above. An ordinary capacitor should be able to cope with either polarity with no problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 The one in the photo is a ceramic. They are normally rated at least 50V and I have never seen one fail other than open circuit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Once the smoke has come out just leave it alone ......... ...... once upon at time you had to pay extra for a model with smoke - now it comes free an' you're complaining ........ ! ............... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Brasher Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 My SECR H class ran hot and was not responsive to the controls. I sent it to the Hornby repair centre near Canterbury. They repaired it and refunded my postage. It is running very well now. I think Hornby put too much grease in it when Hornby made it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Are you suggesting that this is an electrolytic capacitor? It doesn't look like one from the photo in the post above. An ordinary capacitor should be able to cope with either polarity with no problems. No - a ceramic is not polarity dependent, but a tantalum is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 Blimey, I see my tips re the paper shims have come in helpful then, my initial H class could not run properly and it was due to too much grease and just too little clearance with the gear cap. My new H class runs well but gets hot, you can smell the carbon from the brushes. The 104 ceramic capacitor is rated 50+ volts, and not polarized. However they can fail and become shorts, hence the OPs finding of the burn out. Too fail they either have to be faulty, very old or being used out of spec. Looking at the 90 pence motor it could be excessive sparking causing it. Blimey Hornby what a mess. Anchorage Ds10 should fit and will be a far better motor, going to try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lissadell Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 I wonder, could I revisit this thread on the H class ............. I’ve just bought a new model and have been doing the usual running in business. It does sway somewhat - perhaps a combination of less than true wheel mounting and also the design ie. a lot of chassis extending beyond the rear axle? Maybe the real thing rolled a bit?? Anyway, I’m now getting round to actually running the model on track and have encountered a couple of other issues. One, mentioned previously by other folk, involves the bogie mounted pickups - in particular, only one of the four actually bears on a wheel! Not to worry, I can fix that. The other issue is more interesting ................ judging by the sound of the model running with/without the body fitted, I wondered if there wasn’t some unplanned internal contact when the complete loco runs. Looking at the chassis, I was drawn to the “exposed” flywheel that must be very close to the body when all is assembled. Further investigation revealed a possible, incompletely formed circular mark on the inside surface directly behind the smokebox door. My thoughts are that a little gentle scraping of the plastic might enlarge clearances and hence be a solution. However, I wondered first if any colleagues might have experienced similar circumstances and might be able to comment. regards Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 9 minutes ago, Lissadell said: I wonder, could I revisit this thread on the H class ............. I’ve just bought a new model and have been doing the usual running in business. It does sway somewhat - perhaps a combination of less than true wheel mounting and also the design ie. a lot of chassis extending beyond the rear axle? Maybe the real thing rolled a bit?? Anyway, I’m now getting round to actually running the model on track and have encountered a couple of other issues. One, mentioned previously by other folk, involves the bogie mounted pickups - in particular, only one of the four actually bears on a wheel! Not to worry, I can fix that. The other issue is more interesting ................ judging by the sound of the model running with/without the body fitted, I wondered if there wasn’t some unplanned internal contact when the complete loco runs. Looking at the chassis, I was drawn to the “exposed” flywheel that must be very close to the body when all is assembled. Further investigation revealed a possible, incompletely formed circular mark on the inside surface directly behind the smokebox door. My thoughts are that a little gentle scraping of the plastic might enlarge clearances and hence be a solution. However, I wondered first if any colleagues might have experienced similar circumstances and might be able to comment. regards Adrian Try some 'permanent' marker on the flywheel first and see whether that gets rubbed off. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lissadell Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Great idea - thanks Wickham! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted October 27, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2019 On 25/10/2019 at 15:42, Wickham Green said: Try some 'permanent' marker on the flywheel first and see whether that gets rubbed off. If it rubs off, can you get your money back as it wasnt permanent? Hat, coat.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 On 13/11/2018 at 18:55, Nile said: Does this help? The component "104" I do not think it is a tantalum or electrolytic capacitor, i think it is a traditional ceramic disc capacitor, and can be connected either way round, not being voltage polarity sensitive Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 (edited) On 25/10/2019 at 15:42, Wickham Green said: Try some 'permanent' marker on the flywheel first and see whether that gets rubbed off. On 25/10/2019 at 15:32, Lissadell said: I wonder, could I revisit this thread on the H class ............. I’ve just bought a new model and have been doing the usual running in business. It does sway somewhat - perhaps a combination of less than true wheel mounting and also the design ie. a lot of chassis extending beyond the rear axle? Maybe the real thing rolled a bit?? Anyway, I’m now getting round to actually running the model on track and have encountered a couple of other issues. One, mentioned previously by other folk, involves the bogie mounted pickups - in particular, only one of the four actually bears on a wheel! Not to worry, I can fix that. The other issue is more interesting ................ judging by the sound of the model running with/without the body fitted, I wondered if there wasn’t some unplanned internal contact when the complete loco runs. Looking at the chassis, I was drawn to the “exposed” flywheel that must be very close to the body when all is assembled. Further investigation revealed a possible, incompletely formed circular mark on the inside surface directly behind the smokebox door. My thoughts are that a little gentle scraping of the plastic might enlarge clearances and hence be a solution. However, I wondered first if any colleagues might have experienced similar circumstances and might be able to comment. regards Adrian Hi Adrian I had this same issue. Here is what I did. Good luck Edited October 27, 2019 by mikesndbs 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 On 25/10/2019 at 15:32, Lissadell said: ...It does sway somewhat - perhaps a combination of less than true wheel mounting and also the design ie. a lot of chassis extending beyond the rear axle? Maybe the real thing rolled a bit?... Steam locos will sway, because of the couple generated by the direct drive, push left, push right, and with a large rear overhang you can see this quite readily on the real thing, but as a very small movement. It should be possible to damp off the swaying by introducing a little friction between the bogie and loco underside, but for this to work well the bogie wheels need to have minimal lateral movement in the bogie frame: so it is fiddle-de-dee work with washers on the axles and typically a fixed light spring on the body bearing on the bogie top, ideally arranged around the bogie pivot. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wainwright1 Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 I have three of the H's and two out of the three have had problems. The first one in original full Wainwright livery was used on my exhibition layout. It did one complete run with its train in and out of the station without problem,. The second time it emerged from the tunnel giving a very realistic cloud of smoke from the chimney, unfortunately without a smoke unit ! Fortunately it did not do any damage to the body. The dealer I bought it from was standing in front of the layout when it happened and saw everything. He returned it to Hornby for me and they replaced the motor. No problems since. The second one was the collector club model, also in full Wainwright livery. This one faired worst and seemed to get hot much quicker causing the boiler in front of the dome to sag. I phoned Hornby and returned the model. They replaced it completely and I have had no further problem with it. I have seen on another thread that there may have been issues with the assembly of the motors causing problems. Screws not properly tightened up ? RB P.S. Also had one of the front steps fall off. That went back into its slot with a spot of superglue. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black 5 Bear Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 (edited) Can anyone please advise if the newer Hornby releases of the H class have solved the motor/capacitor problems as seen on early releases ? Edited April 18, 2021 by Black 5 Bear Typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliepetty Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 On 14/11/2018 at 10:23, Fireline said: Are you advocating Hornby making a loco with a socket that they don't make the decoder for? That sounds to me like a truly daft piece of business! They already do!! The Class 87. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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