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NEM Kadee couplers for UK stock


TravisM
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  • RMweb Gold

Athearn still is but make their own couplers these days, it was around 88 I discovered the wonders of Victors, Kadee’s and ‘blue box’ Athearn ;)

 

The trip pin pliers are the best way to alter the pin’s curve but it can be done, carefully, with pliers with serrated jaws.

You just need to be careful, until you find where you hid the proper trip pin pliers!

 

I’ve used no5’s, in their draft gear box, on the ends of Bachmann modern units where there are no buffers. You can get good close coupling with the corridors almost touching and still get through Peco medium radius crossovers without issue.

 

You’ll also find some earlier stock has cranked couplings in NEM sockets so kadees don’t line up. You need to body mount the couplings or remount the NEM socket.

Edited by PaulRhB
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One of the Platelayers has a neighbour with a 3D printer. One project was an NEM pocket to compensate for the ones that need cranked couplings.  Idea (but no plans) offered to anyone that has the equipment.

Edited by BR60103
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  • RMweb Gold

I switched to Kadees in 1986. Define ‘a long time’?

I'm pretty sure the bulk packs of #5 couplers (but without draft boxes) were available when I switched to Kadees c1993. They were (and are) supplied that way because most US freight car models (r-t-r and kit) have a compatible built-in box so don't need the separate ones. 

 

However, as others have pointed out, the #5 is intended for stock without buffers. For most UK purposes, one or other of the long variants will fit much more neatly.

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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Which coupler would you recommend for Bachmann mk1 coaches ? Is it necessary to modify the buffer beam to use them ?

Old or new type Close Coupler linkage?

 

The old ones are way off the specified alignment for NEM couplers and the simplest remedy for that is the replacement link from Keen Systems.

 

I don't have any with the new type but they are presumably OK as Roger Keen hasn't seen fit to offer a substitute. Once everything lines up properly, #18 or #19 but if you run your coaches in sets, just sort out the ends and use Hornby or Roco coupler heads "inside" which work better in conjunction with the action of CCUs.

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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  • 3 weeks later...

I have recently converted all my 4mm scale British outline locos and rolling stock from Sprat and Winkle to Kadee. Whilst some of the stock had NEM sockets, I found the Kadee 17, 18 & 19 couplers not reliable enough for remote coupling and uncoupling, and I have fitted with Kadee gear boxes and "whisker" couplers.  In the process I have a couple of underlying observations regarding the use of Kadee couplings for British rolling stock if you are looking for a) total reliability and b) handling short radius curves:-

 

1) The Kadee coupling was developed primarily for use with stock which does not have buffers. Thus the imperative of keeping stock a fixed distance apart does not arise;

the longer couplers when used to reverse stock around curves can easily deflect towards the outside of the curve reducing the separation between vehicles and causing derailments - especially with heavy kit built stock like mine

 

2) The Kadee NEM compliant couplings are more strongly sprung then the Whisker couplings and consequently less reliable for uncoupling and coupling;

 

As things stand I have probably solved 90% of the problems.  As mentioned earlier in the correspondence, I have fixed all sprung couplings in the retracted position to make things easier. I have also considered, but not implemented, the idea of a buffing beam between the buffers to keep certain items of rolling stock apart. 

 

On my Ventnor West exhibition layout I am achieving close on 100% reliability, and given that every train movement involves a shunt of some sort, this is vital to maintain hands-off operation. And Ventnor West is not plagued with the short curves I have on Cowes to Newport in the loft. 

 

One warning for those planning to use Kadees in NEM fitted stock is that not all NEM sockets are mounted in the same way - Dapol wagons are especially prone to inconsistent springing of the sockets, which can lead to unreliability. 

 

Chris Gardner

Alton 

Hants

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I would like to use Kadee on my British outline  oo layout like Jools. I have seen on Gaugemasters web a starter kit - Kadee 13.

 

Is this starter kit a good way to test the kadee system ?? 

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

The starter pack contains all the "essential" goodies mentioned by various people - trip pliers , height gauge, magnets, etc.

 

If you build any wagon or coach kits, or have older stock without pockets you will of course need the non-NEM Kadees, and  so my recommendation is to go for the starter pack, and add packets of #18, #19 and #20 NEMs to the order . Then replace/replenish as you need to.

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...The old ones are way off the specified alignment for NEM couplers and the simplest remedy for that is the replacement link from Keen Systems.

 

...just sort out the ends and use Hornby or Roco coupler heads "inside" which work better in conjunction with the action of CCUs.

There is 'another way' which I have employed on selected vehicles with the overheight coupler pocket placement. File down the sides of the fixing end 'spade' of a no 5, and melt it into the pocket. Bob on for gauge height inserted horizontally, depth of 'melt in' determines placement relative to vehicle end. Crude but effective.

 

I have now 'moved on' as far as coaches are concerned. Body mount through the buffer beam on the end coaches of fixed formation sets, which are coupled internally using the Roco head as mentioned above by 'Dunsignalling' to get full close coupling benefit. (All my gangwayed coaches are knuckle coupler/pullman gangway types, What looks better than a coupler looking decently like prototype, correctly located? The trip pin ends up well over gauge height, but Kadee's own magnetic uncouplers still actuate them reliably.)

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I modelled 009, can I fit the Kadees NEM couplers on my 009 scale equipment ?

They will generally be too big but I may use Dapol N scale Easi shunt couplers which look similar but smaller and fit into Peco 009 rolling stock NEM pockets

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  • 2 weeks later...

Although I am in Richmond,VA I am using all British locos and rolling stock. I purchased a package of the #18 Kadees that fit in the NEM pockets. I have installed them on a couple of cars and they all sit lower than the Kadee height  location device.  They droop.  In fact they drag on the magnet that sits between the tracks.  Any ideas how I can make them sit "higher" in the pockets?  

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David

Check the couplers that came with the cars. If there is a step in the shank, the pocket was manufactured at the wrong height and the manufacturer knows it.  Otherwise, try to compare the NEM socket to one that works.  There is no easy fix to this problem.

David

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I have recently converted all my 4mm scale British outline locos and rolling stock from Sprat and Winkle to Kadee. Whilst some of the stock had NEM sockets, I found the Kadee 17, 18 & 19 couplers not reliable enough for remote coupling and uncoupling, and I have fitted with Kadee gear boxes and "whisker" couplers.  In the process I have a couple of underlying observations regarding the use of Kadee couplings for British rolling stock if you are looking for a) total reliability and b) handling short radius curves:-

 

1) The Kadee coupling was developed primarily for use with stock which does not have buffers. Thus the imperative of keeping stock a fixed distance apart does not arise;

the longer couplers when used to reverse stock around curves can easily deflect towards the outside of the curve reducing the separation between vehicles and causing derailments - especially with heavy kit built stock like mine

 

2) The Kadee NEM compliant couplings are more strongly sprung then the Whisker couplings and consequently less reliable for uncoupling and coupling;

 

As things stand I have probably solved 90% of the problems.  As mentioned earlier in the correspondence, I have fixed all sprung couplings in the retracted position to make things easier. I have also considered, but not implemented, the idea of a buffing beam between the buffers to keep certain items of rolling stock apart. 

 

On my Ventnor West exhibition layout I am achieving close on 100% reliability, and given that every train movement involves a shunt of some sort, this is vital to maintain hands-off operation. And Ventnor West is not plagued with the short curves I have on Cowes to Newport in the loft. 

 

One warning for those planning to use Kadees in NEM fitted stock is that not all NEM sockets are mounted in the same way - Dapol wagons are especially prone to inconsistent springing of the sockets, which can lead to unreliability. 

 

Chris Gardner

Alton 

Hants

I have to say I agree with pretty much all of this advice - I use 90% whisker couplers in KD boxes and on my shunting exhibition layout (Dock Street) I cheat by using a 148 equipped brakevan next to the loco to get better reliability.

Chris

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Although I am in Richmond,VA I am using all British locos and rolling stock. I purchased a package of the #18 Kadees that fit in the NEM pockets. I have installed them on a couple of cars and they all sit lower than the Kadee height  location device.  They droop.  In fact they drag on the magnet that sits between the tracks.  Any ideas how I can make them sit "higher" in the pockets?  

I've used a very thin shim of Evergreen strip which I taper before installation - did this successfully on a couple of Heljan pockets - Dapol are less remediable - I cut off and install boxes I'm afraid. At least with Bachmann you can usually unscrew the NEM fitting and keep it should you ever part with the stock.

Edited by Gilbert
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If they are 4-wheel freight cars (wagons or vans in UK parlance) adjusting the pocket height is a pain.

 

The (much) easier course in my experience is to cut off the NEM gubbins altogether.

 

A Kadee #146 fixed directly to the underside of the chassis is the better option. Use the alternative #252 draft box (or file out the unoccupied back area of the standard one) to clear the body fixing screws. On open wagons, you will also need to shorten those screws before reassembly.

 

John

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I have to say I agree with pretty much all of this advice - I use 90% whisker couplers in KD boxes and on my shunting exhibition layout (Dock Street) I cheat by using a 148 equipped brakevan next to the loco to get better reliability.

Chris

 

Was getting concerned about the lack of response - did it mean that I am wrong in my approach.  I have to say that based on my experience I would not dream of exhibiting a shunting layout using the NEM socket version of the Kadees.  I've certainly seen your layout and admired the operation!

 

 

Chris

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The starter pack contains all the "essential" goodies mentioned by various people - trip pliers , height gauge, magnets, etc.

The starter kit does not include the trip pin pliers: http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=KDE13&style=&strType=&Mcode=Kadee+13 The "dual tool" listed in that link is a manual uncoupling tool which (it is alleged) can be used for furtling recalcitrant coupler springs (I find fine tweezers more useful).

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Was getting concerned about the lack of response - did it mean that I am wrong in my approach.  I have to say that based on my experience I would not dream of exhibiting a shunting layout using the NEM socket version of the Kadees.  I've certainly seen your layout and admired the operation!

 

 

Chris

You must have seen our better moments!

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Nope - according to them, they don't stock Rapido Trains items. I'll try Charlie  @ DCKits/Realtrack

It seems there are (at least) two businesses using the name "Model Junction" in the UK. One in Bury St Edmunds, and one in Slough.

 

In this case you need the latter, I've been wanting to try this uncoupler for a while and have successfully placed an order using the link above.

 

John

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