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Advice for a Sectional Track layout needed.


boxbrownie
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You might find it hard to fit it onto an 8x4 with the R4 radius being 579mm, there won't be space for much on the outside of that. No idea if 8x4 is your limit or just the convenient traditional size though.

 

It does look like a very good set track system.

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Because I quite like doing this kind of thing, here's a version based on your plans above, using the R3/R4 curves in the trix track system. Ran out of pieces on the free anyrail, so you'll have to imagine the content of the yard... This system is very flexible, but I had to do a lot of trial and error with the various lengths of straights to get it to all align properly. But seemingly once you get that sorted it works. The loop at the bottom could be made longer using curved points (that was revision 1), but at the cost of at least one of the bottom left sidings.

 

If I were building an 8x4 I'd be very tempted. Need somewhere to run my N class (which really doesn't fit with all my American HO stuff...).

post-25860-0-81929100-1542453257_thumb.png

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Just to prove the point. Not sure that the bottom left siding is actually any use, I'd probably not bother and would just replace the turnout with a 62330.

 

If you want the .any files then drop me a PM and I'll email them.

post-25860-0-40333800-1542453766_thumb.png

Edited by Zomboid
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Now that is looking good using Trix track, the bottom left siding I was going to make just a Milk drop to put some interest in the corner.

 

I will have a play around with the plan, possibly change the left curve points for a straight point along the bottom......lots to think about, next step though is RTR sectional baseboards, found some obvious makers but I like the hunt!

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Here is an plan I roughed up a while back for Bredon on 8ft x 4ft, using a mix of Streamline (in the scenic area) and Setrack (in the storage sidings) points, and Setrack 2nd and 3rd radius curves:

 

gallery_23983_3473_136201.jpg

 

It's not exactly the same as Bredon since it doesn't have the second loop in the station, but that could easily be corrected - there should be enough room, especially if you use Streamline track spacing through the station rather then Setrack which (for some reason) I did for this one.

 

It doesn't use any curved points.

 

There is room for an operating well on the right hand side (although that does take a chunk out of the scenic area - Bredon had a nice rural hillside there).

 

The straight track is also Setrack but obviously doesn't have to be.  Some of the Setrack curves are cut down to match the Streamline nominal turnout angle (12° rather than Setrack's 22½°).

 

If you use Streamline Insulfrog points they work exactly the same as Setrack ones.  If you use Electrofrog (preferable IMO, even without modifying for frog switching etc etc) then all you need to add is a few judiciously placed IRJs.

 

Happy to PM you the AnyRail file if interested.

Edited by ejstubbs
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Sorry to hear about your dexterity problems, box, and I hope you can cobble together some sort of workable layout for yourself; I'd say that ej's take on Bredon is about your best bet so far IMHO.  I am a little concerned at the 4' depth, though, in terms of your being able to reach to the back corners unless it is in the centre of a room and can be accessed easily from all sides.  Your goods yard is in the middle of it and you will need to be able to uncouple tension lock couplings with a hook or spade device here.    My feeling is that a 'shelf' type of end to end layout, possibly with a cassette system to ease the handling work, might suit your needs better.  Minories, perhaps, with a goods yard on the viewing side for easy access.

 

I'd suggest investing in a 'rerailer' ramp of the sort Hornby Dublo used to sell; don't know if these are actually available any more but something like it should be easy enough to knock up from sheet plastic with the wheel/flange guides glued on.

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I am happy with the 4 foot depth as the board will be accessible from all sides, I am also luckily still over six feet tall so that always helps with reach  :)

 

I am planning on using the TRIX track and the uncouplers, I believe all the modern 4mm stuff has NEM sockets and also plan to use some kind of delayed uncoupler system, something like the ROCO/Hornby, this is still to be investigated but if goes as planned will only need a few uncouplers.

 

Or maybe even Kaydee type?

 

The rerailers are available and I will certainly be getting one or two as they are handy for swapping over locos mid session.

 

I have had another play with Anyrail and Photoshop and have come up with this plan which gives me some small storage at the back.

 

Might order some baseboards next week, want to get this going, not added up the cost of the Trix track yet, I'll leave that until just before my Doc's appointment next week  :)

 

post-6591-0-48483500-1542477136_thumb.jpg

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One thing to bear in mind with the Trix track is that the points don't isolate, so if you want to go DC then you'll need to use the insulators and switch around them accordingly.

 

Not a problem if you're going DCC.

 

I'm not an expert on this stuff btw, I've just been looking it up on the net. I'd check about how those long points work at the front there too - have a look at this website, that arrangement with the long points might not work with the real track: http://railway.zone/post/get-to-know-the-trix-c-track

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Fleischmann Profi-Track is another option. I find, however, that some UK prototype locos can derail on the points—this may be due to different wheel standards so it's possible Trix track might have the same issues. It might be an idea to create a small test track to see if the locos you intend using will work O.K.

 

Fleischmann points are supplied in all-live mode but by removing the small metal clips that are fitted they can be made self-isolating.

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Just shifted the inner siding a smidge to take account of the fact I will want the board to split into two 4x4 sections, before the join was on a point toe now just have a very short plain straight over the join., now all the centre join falls under plain straight track sections, should be easier to align if need to move.

 

I think it's almost there.

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. I'd check about how those long points work at the front there too - have a look at this website, that arrangement with the long points might not work with the real track: http://railway.zone/post/get-to-know-the-trix-c-track

 

Not sure I understand what the issue might be?

 

OK having read it a fews times I think those "extra" bits are to make a neat transition because of the built in ballast, there should be no issue removing them but then the track that joins the point will need its ballast "trimmed" to fit, that's my take on it, if that's all it is I will be a happy bunny.

Edited by boxbrownie
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Right, been back to the drawing board, it was nigh on impossible to use the ROCO or TRIX track geometry and avoid the baseboard joints enough to give natural lines.

 

So back to basics again and tried the PECO Setrack and it fits nicely, have jiggled it a little more and I think it gives just about what I required, I could add a bit of a storage siding top right (to match similar at the left) but that can be decided later.

 

I have included a headshunt line to keep the inner main clear which I think works well, there will be a scenic break along the back to hide the storage loop/siding a bit. I am thinking lower left is a Milk Drop siding.

 

With the setrack I will most likely use a hardish foam base (probably not the PECO foam as last time I looked that stuff was very soft) and glue/stick it down as I am not sure I'll be able to pin/screw to the board with my poor control of fingers, likely to get more crushed fingers than secured pins! :)

 

 

post-6591-0-60369800-1542544671_thumb.jpg

 

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Hi,

 

The Bredon layout in later revisions of the setrack plan book are using curved points so that the complete layout could be built using set track.

Yes curved points do cause problems, when I've used them you can get derailments, there doesn't appear to be any logic to it but I don't like using them.

The photo below shows how it was in the first issue of the Plan book that Paul did.

This uses a couple of lengths of flexitrack to allow all of the joins, but all straight points this may be a better work around for you.:-

 

post-6745-0-78858000-1542546925_thumb.jpg

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

Edited by traction
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Ian, that’s interesting as I had not seen the original although Inhad read it used all normal points (like the photo), might be worth trying again on Anyrail.

 

I like the look of the curved points but they do have rather a long dead frog area which worried me slightly, I wonder just how much of these problem with the curved points are to do with B2B or the actual points?

 

Thanks for the plan.

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Tried some of my 4mm DCC stuff (shorter wheelbase) over the pair of Setrack points this afternoon, something tells me I will not be using Peco Setrack, the dead frog is all too obvious......these are new/newish models which have no issues over electrofrogs but the Setrack dead frogs are a NO NO.

 

Well at least I made an enquiry about the baseboards today, so something is happening.......standard the 8x4 comes in three sections, but I am going to ask if they can be two 4x4 sections as the TRIX plan works really well on two 4x4 together. I am pretty sure a 4x4 board is going to be manageable if and when it needs moving.

 

I did a rough total of the cost of the TRIX track........ :O ........but then looking at it logically I have, well I have lost count of the 7mm locos I have and the track only comes to about 1.5 Heljan loco worth, and as I consider the track to be a very important part, I think it is little to pay in the scheme of things, that's "man maths" for you  :jester: .........blimey I have been planning on getting the colour ECoS controller to replace my aging Zephyr (which has been brilliant) so I cannot grumble, anyway that's what pensions are for!

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Track is kind of critical to a model railway, I tend to think... ;)

I agree, which was my point sort of.....loads of people pay a fortune for Locos and rolling stock which is all well and good but then they can decide that the track is too expensive, I find it equates to control also especially so in DCC.....people baulkmat paying hundreds for a decent controller and then buy 4 or 5 just as expensive Locos in the following year.

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I suppose it depends on what you enjoy, but if running trains is part of it then cutting corners on the track quality is a major false economy. Less so if you're building a diorama.

 

Fundamentally though, without track it's a model village...

 

If it's relatively expensive though, I'd get a couple of lengths of the Trix track if you're intending to use it. The built in roadbed could be controversial. It can definitely be made to look really good, but only you'll know if you want to/ feel up to doing whatever you need to make it work for you (which might be simply removing the packaging, or it might be extensive re-engineering, or anywhere in between).

 

Tomorrow I'll explain how to suck eggs.

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UK Setrack curved points are problematic - they are a bit of a bodge and at one location their is a straight rail parallel to a curved rail with a consequential gauge narrowing which can cause problems.

What types of rolling stock did you experience problems with? I've had no issues so far with Bachmann and Hornby curved points and 4 and 6 axle diesels.

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I have now finished the final, last, no more to be planned layout using TRIX-C track, I have enlarged the baseboard just a few inches each way (up to 2.6mx1.3m) from the original 8x4 as I felt it needed just a little more room at the edges to avoid looking too cramped, I have jiggled the plan so the board can be split into three sections, one 2'x4'2" one 3'x4'2" and one 3'3"x4'2"..........these should be easier enough to handle when the time comes to move/smash/break/sell the layout!

 

Comment now or forever hold your peace  ;)

 

post-6591-0-78672000-1542644080_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by boxbrownie
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