Heljan announce re-tooled Class 86 in OO

[97406]

1 hour ago, Francis deWeck said:

If I may make reference to 'trying to remove the body', how, mine won't give even after counting to several thousand? It's not as if I haven't done it before. The last really awkward one was the Baby Deltic. The body just does not seem to want to give, even when the clips are separated.

 

Other than that, it is a good runner in DC and a pretty fair loco to behold. Headcode panel does seem slightly odd, I would have though it should have been flush with the body, but hey!

Hopefully you can see the clips on the body in this pic. I’ll fix the broken lifting eye as the last job before the final assembly.

Edited April 27, 2021 by 97406

[adb968008]

Ive been very impressed with mine so far.

The new pantograph is a huge improvement.

 

I was surprised to see how good the Hornby 86 compares, give it a Heljan pantograph, fill the headcode panel and a decent chassis it would be on its way there.

 

Also impressed how neatly the new 86 aligns to Heljans prior 86... really only the pantograph, everything else would pass. I’m certainly not selling my old Heljan 86’s but if the Heljan pantograph came to market i’d buy quite a few.

 

I dont think theres any reason to ditch the old ones, or for them to lose value.. there's just not enough class 86’s out there.. the market is starved of them. That said the shape of the front end of the 86/0 looks much improved.

 

The new 86/0 is really nice, I cannot believe its not been done before. The blue shade on the early versions looks really good, the Blue with cantrail is very good too.

Onto batch two..and an 86/0 with headcode lights please.., i’m not going to bother making a panel as it seems a logical next progression from this new tooling, then more of the same with 86/2 and 86/4... I think demand for those is going to be substantial.

Weve been starved of 86’s for a while.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 27, 2021 by adb968008

[GRUNFOS]

Ordered mine Friday 4pm from Rails, arrived 10am yesterday, well impressed with service and the loco, looks bl##dy good to me.  Numbers have taken a bit of time to remove, have also removed arrows as I have a cast set to replace them. Headcode change was the easiest one I've ever done. Should be finished over the weekend will post a pic or two when its done. 

[adb968008]

Theres several pictures already, so I thought i’d focus around other areas..

 

The body shell interior is largely the same for prior 86/2 and new 86/0. The main difference is the cab interior is now screwed onto the chassis on the 86/0 where as it was it was fitted to the body previously.

 

 

putting the calipers on it, the length / width is the same

 

Despite similarity, there are giveaway differences... note the screen wipers & their waterjets , giveaway the changes in shape to the cab windows

The main handrail is now metal, the red tail lights are of different design eras.

The lights are now an LED board.

 

 

The chassis / motor is unchanged, though the revised more compact 21pin circuit board feeds to the front leds, leaving more space at the opposite end for those with a DCC speaker requirement. (You could fit an older 8pin circuit board inhere if you wanted still).

 

As with the 33, bufferbeams are a separate part.

overall at first glance it feels like the old model, but subtly gives it away.. on the roof on the older models some raised panels that are painted on the 86/6 are ribbed on the 86/0, the body doesnt have springs and the front is different.. its all new.

 

fyi tip for removing the body.. The body is a tight fit. The underframe detailing is super delicate, as are the details on the bogies, including stirrup steps.. basically on the chassis theres nothing to hold onto, and the body sits nice and tight.

 

However the buffers are push-fit onto the metal chassis block, upon removing the bufferbeam there are two large metal cavities for the sprung buffers to retract into. By using 4 hotel key cards (remember the days when we used to stay in hotels ?) into the body sides, you can insert a jewellers  screwdriver into one of the bufferbeam cavities in the metal block. hold the screwdriver tightly whilst lifting up the body, and youve got a nice leverage point.

 

I think weve been starved for 86’s for a long time. This is the first true 86/0, and whilst I think some liveries might stick, as its just an era many dont relate to, others will soon dissapear, for me its onwards and upwards to the 86/2 but the 86/0 gets a thumbs up and definitely feels much better in terms of detail, in tech design and overall quality than the class 25.

 

 

Edited April 28, 2021 by adb968008

[Johnson Street IEMD]

11 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

Theres several pictures already, so I thought i’d focus around other areas..

 

The body shell interior is largely the same for prior 86/2 and new 86/0. The main difference is the cab interior is now screwed onto the chassis on the 86/0 where as it was it was fitted to the body previously.

 

 

putting the calipers on it, the length / width is the same

 

Despite similarity, there are giveaway differences... note the screen wipers & their waterjets , giveaway the changes in shape to the cab windows

The main handrail is now plastic, the red tail lights are of different design eras.

The lights are now an LED board.

 

 

The chassis / motor is unchanged, though the revised more compact circuit board feeds to the front leds, leaving more space at the opposite end for those with a DCC speaker requirement. (You could fit an older circuit board inhere if you wanted still).

 

As with the 33, bufferbeams are a separate part.

overall at first glance it feels like the old model, but subtly gives it away.. on the roof on the older models some raised panels that are painted on the 86/6 are ribbed on the 86/0.

 

fyi tip for removing the body.. The body is a tight fit. The underframe detailing is super delicate, as are the details on the bogies, including stirrup steps.. basically on the chassis theres nothing to hold onto.

However the buffers are pushfit, upon removing the bufferbeam there are two large metal cavities for the sprung buffers to retract into. By using 4 hotel key cards (remember the days when we used to stay in hotels ?) into the body sides, you can insert a jewellers  screwdriver into the bufferbeam cavity in the metal block. hold the screwdriver tightly whilst lifting up the body, and youve got a nice leverage point.

 

I think weve been starved for 86’s for a long time. This is the first true 86/0, and whilst I think some liveries might stick, as its just an era many dont relate to, others will soon dissapear, for me its onwards and upwards to the 86/2 but the 86/0 gets a thumbs up and definitely feels much better in terms of detail, in tech design and overall quality than the class 25.

 

 

 

Can those numbers at the front of the new 86 be adjusted to show a headcode for example? like 4M25 

 

[adb968008]

1 minute ago, DBC90024 said:

 

Can those numbers at the front of the new 86 be adjusted to show a headcode for example? like 4M25 

 

It looks like its printed on the inside of the glazing.

[Johnson Street IEMD]

Oh okay, that would have been cool, kinda making up for the panto which isnt digitally controllable lol, maybe next time Heljan.

[adb968008]

2 hours ago, DBC90024 said:

Oh okay, that would have been cool, kinda making up for the panto which isnt digitally controllable lol, maybe next time Heljan.

 

I really like this pantograph... Having some sold separately would be of interest to other AC electrics.

 

This is where it gets interesting..

 

Pantograph fixing holes is one area manufacturers agree on*.... from Trix to Heljan.

Interestingly, the positioning holes for the pantograph are spot perfect..

for Heljans new 86, old 86, Hornby 86, Hornby 87, Trix 81 and Bachmann 90...  I did try...

 

I can interchange them between any of them if I wanted to.

 

 

from top to Bottom..

Lima 87* (there is one odd man out)

Heljan 86.. new release

Heljan 86.. prior release

Hornby 87

Hornby 86

Trix 81 (Wearing a Bachmann class 90 pantograph).

 

 

As for which fits lowest... ive done a head on shot, leveled by putting the wheels at my table rim...

 

looks like Hornby’s 87 is the winner here, but the new 86 is a respectable second, given its metal.

 

Several pages back I recall saying spare pantographs might be a bad idea, however like any good politician a u-turn is required, given I could use a pantograph on my old 81,86,87,90 that reason alone means it makes sense. I’m just missing the 85 in this line up.. I just cant find it right now.. but I know its fitting is different to the above.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 28, 2021 by adb968008

[The Ghost of IKB]

Intersting front end comparison. The oversize holes for the handrails are a backward step, absent from hornbys 87, but were also done better on the original helj 86/2.

[Roy Langridge]

29 minutes ago, The Ghost of IKB said:

Intersting front end comparison. The oversize holes for the handrails are a backward step, absent from hornbys 87, but were also done better on the original helj 86/2.

Handrails seem to be a problem area for Heljan for some reason. Bows upward as well.

 

Roy

[97406]

2 hours ago, adb968008 said:

It looks like its printed on the inside of the glazing.

 No, you’re in luck. Headcode panel pops out and the headcode is an insert.

[adb968008]

17 hours ago, 97406 said:

 No, you’re in luck. Headcode panel pops out and the headcode is an insert.

[Francis deWeck]

On 27/04/2021 at 18:50, 97406 said:

Hopefully you can see the clips on the body in this pic. I’ll fix the broken lifting eye as the last job before the final assembly.

Yeah, I got to reveal the clips alright. I was able to lift the bottom of the body (let's call it the waist) clear of the chassis, right up to the chassis front, underneath the door. Upon getting to the door area, I saw what was apparent leak of glue. I also reoved the buffer beam, but one of the pegs remained stuck in, therefore confirming that glue had got to that location. I too have jewellers screwdrivers, but seeing this problem with the buffer beam I decided to return the model whence it came. Thanks for the work you've put in with these models.

[Zunnan]

I have to admit I wasn’t over keen on the factory weathering initially, but after a bit of a tone down it scrubs up rather nicely.

 

I think I prefer the Rat mechanism, my 86/0 has a tendency to bind up on anything tighter than 24” radius and if left running below an approx 10mph crawl will stall out entirely on 3rd radius curves, which thankfully are my minimum. Its also a bit of a slug to get moving and hasn’t eased with a few hours running, but isn’t a deal breaker. Perhaps a slight tightness in the geartrain, but I’m loathe to tear into it and it’s livable for now, though I’ll reappraise that when I come to chip it.

[Wagonmaster]

5 hours ago, adb968008 said:

 

Can't help noticing the prismatic effect of the cab glazing in that photograph. I wonder if Shawplan will produce some Laserglaze for it?

[97406]

 

Here's mine after some tinkering. I've been after an 86/3 for a while now.

[97406]

 

Definitely looks like an 86. Hornby bits on show.

[97406]

34 minutes ago, Wagonmaster said:

 

Can't help noticing the prismatic effect of the cab glazing in that photograph. I wonder if Shawplan will produce some Laserglaze for it?

To reduce the effect, I used a thinned down mix of acrylic black paint and thinners applied on the inside edges of the glazing (from the inside) with a tiny brush so it got drawn in. Better to experiment with a thicker paint and thin it, rather than the other way around or you risk getting it on the front.

 

It's worth bunging the large handrail holes with some yellow acrylic paint beforehand or you risk the paint oozing out under capiliary action. Makes them go away, too!

Edited April 29, 2021 by 97406

[philiprporter]

2 hours ago, Wagonmaster said:

 

Can't help noticing the prismatic effect of the cab glazing in that photograph. I wonder if Shawplan will produce some Laserglaze for it?

Apologies that this is a bit off topic, but I seem the term 'prismatic' (with reference to glazing) a lot on here and in magazines, but I have no idea what it means? Is is that the windows look overly thick, like the thick glass of a prism? Thanks, Phil. 

[luke_stevens]

5 hours ago, Zunnan said:

I have to admit I wasn’t over keen on the factory weathering initially, but after a bit of a tone down it scrubs up rather nicely.

 

What do you use to tone it down? I've used t-cut carefully in the past.

 

Luke

[Hal Nail]

55 minutes ago, philiprporter said:

Is is that the windows look overly thick, like the thick glass of a prism?

Yes.

[Zunnan]

11 hours ago, luke_stevens said:

 

What do you use to tone it down? I've used t-cut carefully in the past.

 

Luke

 

Paint thinners and a handful of cotton buds works well to move the weathering around. I found the weathering to begin to lift and shift really quite compliantly, certainly long before the numbers and other paint detail began to show signs of beginning to lift.

 

I started by thinning the lower bodyside with broad horizontal strokes as that is where the weathering is most heavily applied, and when that began to transfer to the cotton buds, I began to loosen further up the bodyside, one side at a time. Once all of the weathering was beginning to move, I changed to a clean bud with fresh thinners and moved to vertical strokes to move the weathering around or remove it entirely. Once happy I left it to dry for half an hour then went over the entire body with a dry bud to buff the surface somewhat, otherwise it would have left a streaky matt finish. Its left the model in quite a nice state where I only really need to do something with the bodyside vents and the roof....and lift the one set of numbers and change the headcodes to 0000 for a post 1978 condition. I was hoping the numbers would lift when tacking the factory weathering, but they're a bit more stubborn!

[brushman47544]

The main issue for me with the previous 86 release was the bodyside grills, which were awful. The other issues I could have lived with. In that area the new version is a huge step up.

[rembrow]

Ordered a set of etched numbers and crests from Fox, for the class 81 to 86 electrics and they arrived the next day, great service, so I spent a couple of nights adding them to my early livery, no yellow panel, version.

I had to remove some of each printed cabside number and parts of the printed mid body logos, as the Fox versions wouldn't fully cover. The numbers and letters are a bit thicker on the body printed versions. I used a fibre glass pen to gently remove the numbers and parts of the logos. The new letters/numbers have to be applied individually, so twenty had to be done, Fox only supply four 'E' letters and one pinged off the tweezers. Luckily the carpet monster gave it up. I used 'glue n glaze' to fix them and the next day, gave an overbrush of Testors Dulcote to secure them and dull the bright finish. It does make a big difference. Now I have to build up the calm to tackle my syp version

 

[luke_stevens]

On 30/04/2021 at 11:16, Zunnan said:

 

Paint thinners and a handful of cotton buds works well to move the weathering around. I found the weathering to begin to lift and shift really quite compliantly, certainly long before the numbers and other paint detail began to show signs of beginning to lift.

 

I started by thinning the lower bodyside with broad horizontal strokes as that is where the weathering is most heavily applied, and when that began to transfer to the cotton buds, I began to loosen further up the bodyside, one side at a time. Once all of the weathering was beginning to move, I changed to a clean bud with fresh thinners and moved to vertical strokes to move the weathering around or remove it entirely. Once happy I left it to dry for half an hour then went over the entire body with a dry bud to buff the surface somewhat, otherwise it would have left a streaky matt finish. Its left the model in quite a nice state where I only really need to do something with the bodyside vents and the roof....and lift the one set of numbers and change the headcodes to 0000 for a post 1978 condition. I was hoping the numbers would lift when tacking the factory weathering, but they're a bit more stubborn!

Enamel thinners? Don't want to use something too drastic!

 

Luke