Jump to content
 

KRModels announce a GT3 Model


micklner
 Share

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, adb968008 said:

Whilst I have great respect for your skills, it does you a disservice to ignore creativity in household items around you.

 

I'm afraid that you misread me completely; I have been using household items in my modelling since I could use scissors.

 

My first triumph was to adapt a K's W&U tram loco to run on my Hornby Dublo three rail track. Anyone who has seen a K's motor bogie knows that the clearance between the lower motor brush tag and rail height is approaching zero. Nonetheless, I bought a tin of brass shim and found a couple of drawing pins around the house and - lo and behold - an ultra-low-profile third rail collector, soldered to the motor tag with a huge tinsmith's iron heated in the cooker gas ring.

 

No clear plastic was - and is - never thrown away; it's too valuable for glazing, especially vac-formed compound curves. My wife will attest that my modelling room, and the garage shelves, are stuffed with 'things that might come in handy'!

 

Your comment re plasticene was taken at face value - mistakenly, it seems - but the impossibility of attaching a 'hubcap'-sized dome to the top of a hex crankpin head struck me as ridiculous.

 

No, we are in total agreement as to the value of improvisation in railway modelling; it is only in very recent times that I have been able to afford off-the-shelf solutions. What comes to hand is still often the most convenient and timely way forward.

 

John Isherwood.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
11 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

I'm afraid that you misread me completely; I have been using household items in my modelling since I could use scissors.

We  mis read each other.

Lets Pick up tools and move on.
 

:-)

  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
12 hours ago, adb968008 said:

 

In my years ive used  egg crates, corks, Metal threads, ring pulls, bottle lids, pens (knibs and ink wells),  wire mesh from wine bottles (great for pickups),.... 

 

 

 

 

Pick ups from wire mesh on wine bottles . Brilliant!  And I have an endless supply .  Great posting .  

Edited by AY Mod
Excess quoting removed
Link to post
Share on other sites

It is probably daft to bring up a sensible idea in the middle of the fighting over the “hubcaps”, but I wonder if KR Models and Modelu would be able to collaborate on redesigning the Modelu hubcap to fit the sizing of the GT3 crankpin as fitted to the model. 

 

Its a 3D model. A few changes and hopefully something can be sorted that doesn’t involve having to grind away at a small part, and helps 2 companies in one hit. 

  • Like 3
  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
5 hours ago, Legend said:

 

Pick ups from wire mesh on wine bottles . Brilliant!  And I have an endless supply .  Great posting .  

My main use is lighting on coaches, wrap it around the axle and run it up into the coach body... no solder required.. I just twist it around the wire for the light unit in the “toilets” of the coach to make the connection.

 

if the wheels are both isolated, then a tiny bit of solder on the inside of the wheel and then the axle will make the axle “live”.


1B703FAE-6DAD-41C1-A727-F74A3E1228E9.jpeg.98e888ee5535e0dd154d5bdade0a2ebc.jpeg

 

the wheel spins freely, there’s always mesh contact, as its twin wires twisted around, hanging on the axle.

 

Here’s a simple proof of concept...

(Yellow) DC to wheel,  red to Bridge/lighting unit (this would be a different wheel on the carriage).

 

DD0BCB1F-80E9-4541-A76B-C5339AD8A9F7.jpeg.94c8a97559c084c1598f2721b03cc300.jpeg

 

The wine bottle mesh is passing contact to the bridge, allows the lights to work both directions, 99p on ebay, and hence my LED (5m for £10).. hence my coach lighting costs around £1.50 per coach.

No faffing getting pickups to touch the wheel, and zero friction affecting the coach wheels.

 

similar solution works on tenders.. I will make the tender live on one rail, the loco live on the other, that way I don’t need To make pickups touching the wheels at all... use a bit of insulated wire between loco motor terminals and tender, if I want it “disconnectable”, then I cut a fishplate in half, crimp the wires in either ends, and push fit the other ends to connect / disconnect.

Its 0.29mm .. useful for all kinds of odd jobs.., Ive one as a whistle valve on a Brit, carriage door handles..
 

the P2’s lamp brackets, if you look closely are made from matchsticks..5E815417-9348-4E0C-8DBA-20BCA7C64A4A.jpeg.56b3af45fa649d2bc7486a82bc70714f.jpeg

 

I’m waiting for my daughter to come home, so I can rob her invisible earrings and I will try them on an 0-6-0 tonight...

 

can I ask, what is the dimensions of a gt3 hub cap  so I can see if this is a viable size ?

 

Edited by adb968008
  • Like 2
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Following up my message from friday, heres a quick concept of how a pin from the rear, into a hub cap on the front might work.

The cap is 2.85mm wide, 3mm deep (so room to trim).
 

This is using an invisible earring, ive removed the pin for the hex screw (see right), and threaded the spike from the rear...F5507EA6-02D7-4E77-89DA-700EED8CDF2C.jpeg.642d139e5a5d125dd16f12fdd0b76963.jpeg

 

8D492E09-CDC0-4D5D-8872-2CAE021BC37A.jpeg.5114960ebbebaa90a923e7c06c6b5c80.jpeg

 

rolls easy enough, I’m able to roll as is, the hub cap turns with the wheel, or glue the cap to the coupling rod, and have the spike at the rear do the rotating.


made it green, just to blend in...

0292FF69-ACAF-4BC6-95A5-BE2E93CE1F32.jpeg.06d2a80c0e9b30777d5bee4121148fbc.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

Following up my message from friday, heres a quick concept of how a pin from the rear, into a hub cap on the front might work.

The cap is 2.85mm wide, 3mm deep (so room to trim).
 

This is using an invisible earring, ive removed the pin for the hex screw (see right), and threaded the spike from the rear...F5507EA6-02D7-4E77-89DA-700EED8CDF2C.jpeg.642d139e5a5d125dd16f12fdd0b76963.jpeg

 

8D492E09-CDC0-4D5D-8872-2CAE021BC37A.jpeg.5114960ebbebaa90a923e7c06c6b5c80.jpeg

 

rolls easy enough, I’m able to roll as is, the hub cap turns with the wheel, or glue the cap to the coupling rod, and have the spike at the rear do the rotating.


made it green, just to blend in...

0292FF69-ACAF-4BC6-95A5-BE2E93CE1F32.jpeg.06d2a80c0e9b30777d5bee4121148fbc.jpeg

 

.... but you could, instead, fit a Modelu 'hubcap' over the pin - they are already pre-drilled - and you have the perfect solution.

 

Nice one!!!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited by cctransuk
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 18/06/2020 at 15:31, MGR Hooper! said:


I was just going to say it had a German feel to it.

 

Marklin have used line drawings on silver then later white card for more than 20 years. The thick line is normally blue or black. Inside is a block of ice held in card which the outer sleeve slips over. More recent models have moved to side profile photos.

 

Unlike the Dapol type box there is no foam insert.

marklin.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Seastar_44 said:

In case anyone in here has missed the Facebook update:

 

A9BA1CDA-E260-4E2F-9648-6641093E5DD7.jpeg

4F77C15A-DA41-4194-83C9-4883B1E4CB38.jpeg

DB7DDE8A-76B2-41CC-BBF8-84DE30E654E5.jpeg

52104C98-A8CF-409C-BC33-ED66198C4594.jpeg


I had to look twice at that picture, GT3’s wasn't what first came to mind, just something of a similar shape thats a bit errr

 

 

However its looking good though, to see progress.

 

Edited by adb968008
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Seastar_44 said:

They look rather good to me! That said, I’m wondering about the window-like recesses in the front of the tender. Can’t imagine they’ll be particularly visible, but should they be green?

Don't forget those are just basic colours  so the bodies have not yet been decorated with the various tampo printing which follows later in the production process.  In other words they appear to be at a very early stage in production.  So unless a massive amount has happened since those photos were taken (it could have of course) the finished models are unlikely to be in the UK (at the distrbutor) until, probably, October if you allow for the total transit time of six weeks quoted by most shipping agents (unless the models are air freighted).  

 

And, if a ship's name is later made available - as some model railway companies do - it will be easy to watch their progress towards Britain and get a firmer estimate of when they will arrive.

  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, adb968008 said:

Are the windows on the footplate end of the tender ( the end where the circular fan hole is) equal sized, or is one larger than the other ?

 

I can’t tell from the picture.

Just had a look back through posts on this thread and some of my own pics and they are indeed different sizes but also a different shape. Have a look at page 33 where  member has taken pics of the tender connections.

 

Regards Gary

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, gary_lner said:

Just had a look back through posts on this thread and some of my own pics and they are indeed different sizes but also a different shape. Have a look at page 33 where  member has taken pics of the tender connections.

 

Regards Gary

So not like this ?

 

https://twsmedia.co.uk/traction-technology/motive-power/jet-propelled-locos/#jp-carousel-148

 

or this..

(see this thread),.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/135114-english-electric-gt3/&do=findComment&comment=3455527

Also, being green above, does it mean they are not glazed as windows at all, just green indentations or will they be pressed out and glazing inserted like the EP on page 33 ?

 

I notice on the EP on page 33 theres no windows in the cab back head either,

https://twsmedia.co.uk/traction-technology/motive-power/jet-propelled-locos/#jp-carousel-147

 

 

Edited by adb968008
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
On 08/07/2020 at 09:24, MGR Hooper! said:


Chances are the thousand or so people who actually did buy the GT3 from KRM are least bothered by the lack of hubcaps. They either don't know that it's there (despite it's size), or they are more than happy with the compromise.

 

If they are on RMweb - they are aware now.....

 

I would have thought on something as challenging as a locomotive the hubcaps would be pretty simple, and KR would want to produce this to be its flagship model.

 

My suggestion after thinking about it 2 minutes.  Plastic molding that has a recess to fit which should ensure they fit true, but supplied in an accessory bag for the modeller to fit if required (we don't need another Hattons "Wonky Axle Gate)".  That could then be either glued or stuck on with a tiny about of double sided tape or blutac/blacktac etc.  Or if you want an elegant "engineered" solution - very tiny magnet in the hub cap.  

 

Best Regards,

 

C.

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, dogbox321 said:

a tiny about of double sided tape or blutac/blacktac etc.

 

My guess is that it would have to be more substantial than that or they'll fall off. Otherwise hubcapgate will blow up like axleboxgate before it, with hubcaps falling off in tunnels, awkward scenic positions, etc. And nobody wants that.

Edited by truffy
  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...