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KRModels announce a GT3 Model


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1 hour ago, Opelsi said:

Only had a very quick look and left for running in on the rolling road.

Front white lights I think are on all the time and white (as opposed to the white headcode lights can be switched off).

The cab light is red - looks like a knocking shop!

I am now wondering if there has been a mix up here?

It is a fantastic model which I never thought would be available RTR.

(I have a sound fitted version and run with an ESU ECoS)

 

Had another look at the lights.

As you say the front white lights on all of the time and not directional.

The function F20 does exactly the same as F0 which I cannot understand the reason why. If F20 would turn the tail lights off for when coupled up then it would make sense.

As you say the red cab light looks wrong (surely this should be white).There should be enough functionality on the decoder to enable this. Possibly needs a rewire , decoder reconfigure and possibly LED colour changes. How to find out what the prototype had.

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Changing the CV's is the easy bit if you know what to change them too.

I would be very reluctant to open up the model as at £285 and being so perfect is would be a crime to risk spoiling it.

I think it is a forlorn hope that the LEDs will be dual colour and that you are right about a rewire/LED change.

If it were relatively simple an exercise that someone had posted on YouTube I might think about it but I assume that it will be more in depth than that.

A slight shame but nothing I cannot live with on this gorgeous model.

 

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30 minutes ago, Opelsi said:

Changing the CV's is the easy bit if you know what to change them too.

I would be very reluctant to open up the model as at £285 and being so perfect is would be a crime to risk spoiling it.

I think it is a forlorn hope that the LEDs will be dual colour and that you are right about a rewire/LED change.

If it were relatively simple an exercise that someone had posted on YouTube I might think about it but I assume that it will be more in depth than that.

A slight shame but nothing I cannot live with on this gorgeous model.

 


maybe something that Keith and the team can shed some light on.......... sorry I don’t do jokes, even so the model is great all the same!

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3 hours ago, peteskitchen said:

Is there any way of turning the cab lighting off? One of my pet hates! Also the front red marker lights are not red and light up going forwards as well as backwards. I think a modification will be required there. A diode will sort the direction but I've yet to have a peep to see they can be coloured easily or not. 

 Otherwise a beautiful model. I'm very pleased with her. 

 A red Sharpie pen usually sorts out colouring lights, the fine tip ones let you be very precise. 

 

Roy

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1 hour ago, peteskitchen said:

Thanks Roy. Will that have to be reapplied over time or is it pretty permanent? I still would have to open up the model though to stop the lights working whilst traveling forwards.

 

Once dry it is pretty permanent but if you keep handling it it will wear eventually. I have found that you can, like paint, apply a few layers to vary the amount of red you get showing through. I also use it with red LEDs where a clear light guide is used to make sure they have a subtle red shade when not lit.


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On 21/03/2021 at 12:52, Philou said:

For those who live on mainland Europe (more specifically France), I'll let you know.

Well, colour me maroon and green! A parcel arrived just a half an hour ago containing the GT3 (I recognised the box). It wasn't dispatched until Friday and it's here in my hands Monday lunchtime - and no demands for a kidney or an arm before being delivered!

 

SWMBO was a bit miffed that a loco arrived, but I did tell her that is was ordered eons ago and paid-for in installments, and the loco wasn't going to take her place - harrumphh!

 

I shall have a quick look and test it on my layout - all 1yd of it - but no box-opening videos, I promise.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

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It's been taken out of its box and I've had a quick look - the sheen on the paintwork looks good in my eyes as I don't like the 'glossy' look at all. As mentioned above - very weighty - which all adds to its presence. I haven't had an opportunity to run it yet.

 

There is one error that is apparently to be rectified - and I'm not going to say what as I don't really want to set hares running as I wouldn't have been any the wiser.

 

The error notwithstanding, I think it looks a really nice loco and for a first effort - well done.

 

I await for the Fell in eager anticipation.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

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I have taken some time to look at the alignment of the front steps and buffer beam. What I have done was for my delivered GT3. Perhaps this is a possible method for models with a similar problem, or was just needed for my particular model?

The holes on the buffer platforms that should have the handrails fitting straight down into them were a little outside the desired position if the handrails are to remain straight and not be splayed outwards. As they do not sit in the holes they were pushing down on the platforms a little which preventing them from moving upwards (to be level).

Initially, I trimmed the ends of the handrails off (a little too much though), to provide clearance. This helped. In order to do this the buffer beam sub-assembly was removed. This is easily done by removing the 2 cross-head screws underneath.

 

DSC05635.JPG.81dc459a33ef480febb2981168dc9e1b.JPG

 

On refitting the buffer beam I noticed that as the screws were tightened the whole buffer assembly rotated and was still some way out.

The solution has been to fit a couple of 0.3mm shims (fret) underneath the buffer assembly as shown below.

DSC05639.JPG.b1ff502ec9fe79496a34cfb6813d7e7c.JPG

 

As can be seen the steps and buffers / beam are now in good alignment.

DSC05636.JPG.9ac918842ecb5b7f71dba89259bae4f9.JPG

 

In retrospect, I could have drilled new holes for the handrails and I have certainly taken a little too much off. The plan is to fit  small pieces of tubing over each end, 0.8mm OD X 0.6mm ID which will give the apperance of a socket which looks to be the case on the prototype.

The redundant holes will be filled and painted.

Now that I have done this, I have removed that minor defect (to my eyes anyway). I would like to add though that this was minor and I am even more pleased with this superb model.

David

 

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On 21/03/2021 at 16:36, Steam here! said:

Well folks, I've weighed the GT3 and it weighs an impressive:

502Grams

 

Heljan Kestrel weighs:

587 grams

 

So the model itself, what do I think to it?

 

Considoring that there is no prototype surviving (in preservation) except a 5inch gauge model.

Overall KRModels have captured the model extremely well, when comparing photos from google, I must say KRModels have nailed it.

 

The model consists of the following that I have found:

 

•Sprung buffers

•Seperately applied details including hand rails.

•very high built quality (feels very robust).

•Very heavy, strong loco.

•Nem pockets

•Loco/cab lighting

•GT3 badge

•Optional Extras (accessory pack).

•Headcode disks (can be rearranged for the moddellers requirments).

•Paperwork with exploded diagram 

 

Running qualities:

The loco overall is very quiet and smoothe.

 

After running in there is still a faint squeaking sound coming from the tender alxes, I did have a look and it does look dry, I do have some Gaugemaster lubrication oil (the tall but narrow type. The shape of a pen if that makes sense).

Itd the only fault I have discovered on this model).

 

Livery application :

To me it looks spot on, very neatly applied, the extra little details that you may not notice straight away at first glance.

On the tender you've got these two gauges on both sides, picked out with letters and numbers which are minute, you may need a nagnifying glass to see the context of those gauges.

The warning flash labels (overhead wires?) on the sides of the tender body stands out crisp and clear, its the same english electric logo that's been neatly applied and the text is neatly legible from a distance.

You've also got the SKF picked out in white, which stands out on the green chassis axelboxes.

You can see the rivets on the chassis itself, with the springs although the same colour do stand out. There's also seperayely applied footrail that's just beneath the indetntations of a set of steps in the sides of the tender, have been captured really wheel.

On top of the tender you've got a black grille that's been seperately fitted, looking from the right angle I think you cann the blanking plug?

Towards the end of the tender looking from above there is two squarish indentations with a rectangular one in between them.

 

As for the glazing on the rear of the tender you've got this silver surround, which makes the windows stick, the same is also applied to the cab windows and doors.

The door between the cab and tender though is plain green.

 

The loco cab steps have a indentation of diagonal cross pattern, at the front of the cab looking from the loco buffers (head on) you'll also notice you've got of black wipers on the fron windows that are seperately fitted.

 

The running plate is also neatly applied with very ridges on the surface (you'll have to tun your finger left and right).

Its the same effect on top of the buffers which are attached to the red footsteps.

 

The front bogie as well has this SKP (not sure what it stands for) with the green behind it, with the springs, axelboxes and rivets picked out.

There is also a long horizontal bar above the bogie (not sure what this for?)

 

You even see the extra details beyound the grilles, with these horizontal green bars.

On top of the loco at the front you've got this raised green unit with the gold bars, moving futher up the loco, looking from the correct angle and looking down you can see what appears to be two hatches, with two  black airducts/vents?

 

The loco also comes with a close coupling method between the loco and tender, keeping both units close together even on 2nd radius curves, which is one of the best mothods I have seen.

Ussually the moddeller has to guess how close the get both of units together on their layouts.

Here the work is done for them.

 

The length (loco buffer to tender buffer) = 27.4cm

 

The working lights DCC Ready (analogue users)

At the back there are just two (one either side of the door).

When going backwards, there is some flickering, going forwards they are continuously red.

For the cab you get this sort of evil red glow from the light in the ceiling.

For the front of the loco (going backwards) its only the two lights in the brown headlamps that come on.

(Going forwards) all six lights come on including the two brown headlamps.

 

Cab Detail:

In the cab, you can see a red/burgendy floor, two light grey seats an above console at the front but in the centre.

Looks like a panel with a door/grill on it?

 

Haulage power from a 2% start, followed by 2nd radius curves, you'll be pleased to know it was able to pull up hill and pushdown backdown 8 Hornby Southern Maunsell coaches with wheel slip, I did try it with 9 coaches the wheels just spun and it wasn't going anywhere.

 

I still think that is still impressive though for a 4-6-0.

 

Kadees on minum 3rd Radius

 

No: 19 tender end 

No:18 loco end

 

I've not added the detail parts yet and won't be doing till I get the new layout up and running, but that is something to look forward to.

 

Thank you for reading this post, hope you've found it intersting and most useful and has given you an idea of what to expect from the model.

 

Callum

16163448857461631225569.jpg

 

Not that I've got mine yet, or even an email, but couldn't help noticing something odd on the above photo. Is it me, or are the guard irons at the wrong end of the bogie? Surely they should be at the front?  

 

Looks great otherwise and looking forward to mine.

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Give that man a cigar! Yes, the bogie has been made with the guard irons reversed. I wouldn't have spotted it, but it was mentioned in the RM review a couple of numbers back and that's how I knew. In the article it was said that new bogie frames would be sent out to all customers for self-fitting. As a replacement was due, I didn't want to make anything of it.

 

I have had a look, and it's only the one screw holding the bogie in place and I suppose if you had no use for the front coupler, then it could be just a case of turning it around, though I don't know if the NEM pocket would thwart that approach or not.

 

Personally, it's no big deal and I shall await a replacement bogie frame in due course. Another teensie-weensie 'error' that the article picked up was that the makers' plate says 'English Electic' - which I couldn't see without viewing the above photo enlarged!!

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

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1 hour ago, Philou said:

Give that man a cigar! Yes, the bogie has been made with the guard irons reversed. I wouldn't have spotted it, but it was mentioned in the RM review a couple of numbers back and that's how I knew. In the article it was said that new bogie frames would be sent out to all customers for self-fitting. As a replacement was due, I didn't want to make anything of it.

 

I have had a look, and it's only the one screw holding the bogie in place and I suppose if you had no use for the front coupler, then it could be just a case of turning it around, though I don't know if the NEM pocket would thwart that approach or not.

 

Personally, it's no big deal and I shall await a replacement bogie frame in due course. Another teensie-weensie 'error' that the article picked up was that the makers' plate says 'English Electic' - which I couldn't see without viewing the above photo enlarged!!

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

It may be an urban myth, but I'd heard that was how it was spelt on the real one.....I have no evidence for this though.

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We ... e...ll, I haven't and I shan't until the loco will have a decent track to run upon and some decent stock to pull - probably at the end of the year (but not saying which year!).

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

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2 hours ago, Tim Hall said:

It may be an urban myth, but I'd heard that was how it was spelt on the real one.....I have no evidence for this though.

 

999296361_GT3WORKSPLATE.jpg.eaced31afd7670fe07e41bed3c5d1f44.jpg

 

Original worksplate; note the single square corner that abutted the horizontal lining...

 

2032239289_GT3noplate.jpg.c4863747b374a144f1f8bf64ee2efdd9.jpg

 

... and the numberplate - which similarly abutted and continued the lining.

 

John Isherwood.

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20 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

999296361_GT3WORKSPLATE.jpg.eaced31afd7670fe07e41bed3c5d1f44.jpg

 

Original worksplate; note the single square corner that abutted the horizontal lining...

 

2032239289_GT3noplate.jpg.c4863747b374a144f1f8bf64ee2efdd9.jpg

 

... and the numberplate - which similarly abutted and continued the lining.

 

John Isherwood.

Urban myth it is, then....

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22 minutes ago, Pre Grouping fan said:

 

They are the roller bearing caps for the crankpins.

These little things that got people so hot under the collar on earlier mails, I too Would not of noticed them if they were not there initially but fair play to KR for Sticking them in anyhow.

 

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On 21/03/2021 at 18:30, Colin_McLeod said:

 

That loco looks great. Hope mine will be along soon.

 I wonder will the first one come to Cork First Colin :)

 

Keep waiting for the mail from KR!!

 

Did you order a Fell, I stopped short in that one!

 

 

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