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KRModels announce a GT3 Model


micklner
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A little tip for those that want to change the headcode discs. 

 

I found the centre white discs to be a tight fit in the front. And found removing easier with the body off, fortunately quite easy 2 screws in the front corner and 2 about 2/3rds back. 

 

Then used a business card slotted in from the top to allow a pair of fine tweezers or a flat screw driver to ease the disc off. (R&R card just happened to be on my workbench)

 

IMG_20210324_155138.jpg.0196b926d9ffef4ba7baa5fe59669688.jpg

 

The green ones didn't seem as tight to replace thankfully. 

 

Hope that helps

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47 minutes ago, SGP said:

Circuit board diagram (located inside tender) viewed from top.

Rear to the left / front to the right .... 

KR Models Circuit Board.png

Thanks SGP - very useful. It looks as though there are independent supplies to each of the lighting groups. Perhaps these are all seperately programmable for DCC fitted if a V5 decoder is being used (rather than extra switches). I am still not sure what F20 on the sound fitted models was intended to do.

 

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Received mine today.

 

What can can I Say? It is a stunning model and clearly an early contender for Model of the Year. KR Models deserve all the praise they are getting for delivering a truly outstanding, quality model of a prototype which none of us ever  thought we would see, within a relatively short timescale (it probably would have been 6 months sooner had it not been for Covid) and at a good price.

 

KR  have also had to take on the chin numerous totally groundless, cheap comments, criticisms and attempts at undermining them and this model on these pages and at all times have kept their dignity, patience, professionalism and good humour when their critics certainly haven’t. If KR are “gloating” then good for them because they have earned the gloating rights. 

 

I can’t wait to get my Fell at the end of this year! 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Pre Grouping fan said:

A little tip for those that want to change the headcode discs. 

 

I found the centre white discs to be a tight fit in the front. And found removing easier with the body off, fortunately quite easy 2 screws in the front corner and 2 about 2/3rds back. 

 

Then used a business card slotted in from the top to allow a pair of fine tweezers or a flat screw driver to ease the disc off. (R&R card just happened to be on my workbench)

 

IMG_20210324_155138.jpg.0196b926d9ffef4ba7baa5fe59669688.jpg

 

The green ones didn't seem as tight to replace thankfully. 

 

Hope that helps

Does it need to be a roads and rails business card or has it been tested with others ?

 

:D

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2 hours ago, D9001 said:

KR  have also had to take on the chin numerous totally groundless, cheap comments, criticisms and attempts at undermining them and this model on these pages and at all times have kept their dignity, patience, professionalism and good humour when their critics certainly haven’t. If KR are “gloating” then good for them because they have earned the gloating rights.

 

I was going to ignore this as purchasers seem happy with their GT3's but as you seem intent on trolling I'll answer you with some facts as none of the comments were groundless. 

 

The faults that purchasers are bringing up on this thread were on the EP's and were seen a year+ ago  but no one wanted to know, they just wanted to heap praise and shout down anybody who thought otherwise.

 12+ months ago after seeing the initial EP at Warley 2019 and then on the Hornby Magazine youtube review I wrote to KR  with complementary comments  but pointed out the front lights being white rather than red tail lights but received no reply.

When what looked like a 2nd EP was presented I wrote again mentioning the guard irons on the rear of the front bogie (seen on the HM video), missing detail on the tender frames (apart from the spring hanger), the wonky front steps,  missing hubcaps, window on the rear of the tender which was plated over and the same white lights on the front. I even suggested possible fixes depending on the tooling before it left the factory, but again I didn't even get a reply.  

When Mike Wild at Hornby Magazine showed the 'Production Model' I even wrote for a 3rd time and said the front lights were wrong and you were still able to see the guard iron on the rear of the bogie. I assumed by that time that the lack of detail was a commercial decision to keep their production costs down, but those 2 are very visible faults and should not have left the factory.

For whatever reason KR didn't acknowledge or reply, their choice. 

They've now delivered a decent looking model with a good finish but it has some issues which it shouldn't have and as a purchaser I wouldn't be happy with, if you accept it that's your choice,  but I tried to make it a better model by sending comments to improve it rather than just brown nosing.

 

I was asked over the last couple of days if I would re-assemble part of the layout so that a friend could run his in, even though I am part way through a house move I have agreed to do this as I am interested to see what it does on a 20+ metre circuit.  He should receive his soon as I understand he has had an email concerning delivery.

 

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33 minutes ago, chris p bacon said:

 

I am interested to see what it does on a 20+ metre circuit. 

 

It certainly runs very smoothly with a LokPilot Standard decoder through all speed steps. The leading wheelset on the bogie pops off at a particular location on my layout. I think this is due to tight gauge on a soldered joint across a baseboard connection, so a little bit of work on my track, and we should b good to go.

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7 hours ago, Pre Grouping fan said:

A little tip for those that want to change the headcode discs. 

 

I found the centre white discs to be a tight fit in the front. And found removing easier with the body off, fortunately quite easy 2 screws in the front corner and 2 about 2/3rds back. 

 

Then used a business card slotted in from the top to allow a pair of fine tweezers or a flat screw driver to ease the disc off. (R&R card just happened to be on my workbench)

 

IMG_20210324_155138.jpg.0196b926d9ffef4ba7baa5fe59669688.jpg

 

The green ones didn't seem as tight to replace thankfully. 

 

Hope that helps

Thank you, that is very useful, not least in telling me which screws keep the body on.

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27 minutes ago, No Decorum said:

Thank you, that is very useful, not least in telling me which screws keep the body on.

 

Your welcome. Yes, information on things like body removal, the detail bag and general maintenance is missing from the information, perhaps something to work on for future models. 

 

I guessed when I first tried to remove the body thinking it was the rear 2 and the single screw at the front of the driving axles, that didn't go well and just separated the 2 pieces of the chassis!

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4 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

 

I was going to ignore this as purchasers seem happy with their GT3's but as you seem intent on trolling I'll answer you with some facts as none of the comments were groundless. 

 

The faults that purchasers are bringing up on this thread were on the EP's and were seen a year+ ago  but no one wanted to know, they just wanted to heap praise and shout down anybody who thought otherwise.

 12+ months ago after seeing the initial EP at Warley 2019 and then on the Hornby Magazine youtube review I wrote to KR  with complementary comments  but pointed out the front lights being white rather than red tail lights but received no reply.

When what looked like a 2nd EP was presented I wrote again mentioning the guard irons on the rear of the front bogie (seen on the HM video), missing detail on the tender frames (apart from the spring hanger), the wonky front steps,  missing hubcaps, window on the rear of the tender which was plated over and the same white lights on the front. I even suggested possible fixes depending on the tooling before it left the factory, but again I didn't even get a reply.  

When Mike Wild at Hornby Magazine showed the 'Production Model' I even wrote for a 3rd time and said the front lights were wrong and you were still able to see the guard iron on the rear of the bogie. I assumed by that time that the lack of detail was a commercial decision to keep their production costs down, but those 2 are very visible faults and should not have left the factory.

For whatever reason KR didn't acknowledge or reply, their choice. 

They've now delivered a decent looking model with a good finish but it has some issues which it shouldn't have and as a purchaser I wouldn't be happy with, if you accept it that's your choice,  but I tried to make it a better model by sending comments to improve it rather than just brown nosing.

 

I was asked over the last couple of days if I would re-assemble part of the layout so that a friend could run his in, even though I am part way through a house move I have agreed to do this as I am interested to see what it does on a 20+ metre circuit.  He should receive his soon as I understand he has had an email concerning delivery.

 

Not as an attack but out of genuine curiosity-when you say wrote to KR, I assume that was by email as well as comments on the thread here?

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14 hours ago, KR Models said:

You will be getting a full new replacement bogie and buffer beam in a few weeks when we can get them produced and dispatched. 

Marvellous. Now that’s proactive customer service. :good:

Thank you. 

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8 hours ago, 69843 said:

Not as an attack but out of genuine curiosity-when you say wrote to KR, I assume that was by email as well as comments on the thread here?

I did,  The first 2 times were to an address given at Warley , the last was via the 'Contact' page on the site,  either different email address or it was the embedded form (Not 100% sure on that one, it was quite some time ago and a lot going on with moving house and company). It wasn't facebook as I do not use that.

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On 21/03/2021 at 17:29, 69843 said:

SKF is Svenska Kullagerfabriken-the manufacturer of the roller bearings used on the locomotive (and thousands of other locos).

 

Am I right in thinking that, in the 1950s / 60s, these were marketed under the trade name SKEFCO?

 

John Isherwood.

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45 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Am I right in thinking that, in the 1950s / 60s, these were marketed under the trade name SKEFCO?

 

John Isherwood.

You could be right, but that's out of my sphere of knowledge I apologise.

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53 minutes ago, SGP said:

With the loco body off, it reveals that the front xeners are a double white unit whilst the cab xener is a single red so no swapping about. Whilst a white unit could be replaced for the cab, I decided just to block the front tail lights and the cab lights with black tape and be done with them both. They will be on but not visible ... on second thoughts it is probably better though to snip the wires in the tender and maybe add my own DIP switches in there. 

While everything is all apart, I'll be insulating the fine wiring from possible chafing on the metal parts. 

 

When you say 'xener', I take it you mean LED's? Good to know what's under the body though, thanks for that.

 

I'm considering replacing the LED's with the correct colours and if necessary, rewire the tender so that all light functions are controllable via dcc. Away with work at mo, so will have to wait a while before I get a chance.

Edited by Wagpnmaster
Typo
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26 minutes ago, SGP said:

Yeah, xener diodes are like LED's but very tiny attached to a plate. 

I'm thinking (being an analoguer) to re-route the wires via DIP switches mounted under the tender then it can be switched back to factory if any later owner wants to fit DCC. 

The red cab xener plate is easy enough to swap to white or yellow and maybe a red filter over the bottom half of the already in place double white but it would need to be directionally controlled. 

 

 

Ah, I think you mean SMD's, Surface Mount Device. LED's are available as SMD's and are as you describe. I've used them a number of times on other projects. 

 

Be interesting to compare progress on the different ways of tackling this issue.

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3 hours ago, Wagpnmaster said:

 

 

I'm considering replacing the LED's with the correct colours and if necessary, rewire the tender so that all light functions are controllable via dcc. Away with work at mo, so will have to wait a while before I get a chance.

Hope you let us know how you go about these modifications. Would like to do the same but the thought of remapping the decoder (if required) makes me a little nervous.

David

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4 hours ago, SGP said:

Googling SMD seems that you are right, I'll change that in my previous posts. Thanks.

Mind you, I always call screw teminal blocks "electric Lego".

No probs. I was just a bit confused at what KRM might have put in there! I like the 'electric Lego' though ;-)

 

1 hour ago, zr2498 said:

Hope you let us know how you go about these modifications. Would like to do the same but the thought of remapping the decoder (if required) makes me a little nervous.

David

I'll certainly post my findings and solutions, if any. I'm sure there will be many different solutions to this problem posted over the next few weeks.

 

As regards decoder remapping, I use the JMRI Decoder Pro software, makes it much easier just ticking boxes.

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On 22/03/2021 at 16:41, zr2498 said:

As can be seen the steps and buffers / beam are now in good alignment.

DSC05636.JPG.9ac918842ecb5b7f71dba89259bae4f9.JPG

 

In retrospect, I could have drilled new holes for the handrails and I have certainly taken a little too much off. The plan is to fit  small pieces of tubing over each end, 0.8mm OD X 0.6mm ID which will give the apperance of a socket which looks to be the case on the prototype.

The redundant holes will be filled and painted.

 

 

Following on from previous post. The front steps modification completed the best I can.

Small stuff and not easy to fit. Ended up with 1mm diameter tube (Albion Alloys) and cut sections 0.6mm long to act a sockets on platforms.

Holes filled and painted

DSC05657.JPG.757f500b00db8d645d1caba767a98409.JPG

 

Now I can see there is some touching up of the green discs to do (as John already pointed out)

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I've discovered that F1 operates the cab light with my LokPilot Standard fitted to my DCC Ready GT3. Managed to get my track sorted out so managed a few circuits at full speed. It doesn't half move quietly. Marvellous.

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6 minutes ago, Metr0Land said:

Thank goodness the models have been landed and mostly delivered.  Can you imagine the froth on this thread if they'd been on board the Ever Given? :rolleyes:

 

Meh no problems, unload the container of GT3's set up a bit of track on the shore, couple em all up, attach tow rope, start em up and pullllll.  Job sorted :dirol_mini:

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