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KRModels announce a GT3 Model


micklner
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Has any timescale been given about when the replacement buffer beam and pony truck can be expected?

 

I have also noticed that the checker plate strip on the r/h side has lifted slightly. Anyone else had this and if so, how did you re attach it?

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12 hours ago, Edna Clouds said:

I wonder if, when Sam has finished with a loco, he sends it to 00 Bill on YouTube to be cleaned up and de-fluffed.

 

I think thats a little unkind . Sam is well capable of defluffing his own locos and has a good knowledge of the mechanics of a loco .  In fact he services and maintains his own locos well.   That's not taking anything away from OOBill which is a fantastic channel .   Running on a carpet is, of course, not recommended and Sam is well aware of this , and indeed his dodgy trackwork .  But I for one am interested in how locos cope with irregularities . Not everyone has billiard table flat baseboards . You'll find that Sam was well impressed with GT3 , particularly the standard of finish 

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Tried a few experiments with the lights today via ESU Lokprogrammer.

First attempt was to get front and tail lights independently switchable via function buttons. No change. I suspect (without getting inside and examining the PCB) that they are wired into one circuit from the decoder outputs.

Next a simple change so that when the loco goes into reverse (which would only be when uncoupled), the lights (front and tail) stay on.

This has worked OK.

After downloading the decoder settings with the Lokprogrammer, I then was able to use the software alone on the PC to change the setting in the function mapping screen and then pressed the screen 'Tools' / 'Show changed CVs' so I could manually change the CVs at the ESU ECoS rather than risking a download (far too scary).

To do this:

Indexing CV's 31=16, 32=3

Change CV 257 from 20 to 16

Change CV 273 from 24 to 16

Return indexing CV's to original

image.png.237264bee1a7472b555d3237074fbff8.png

F20 does exactly the same as F0 so not sure why it was needed?

It's all reversable and I have probably gone non protypical? If the GT3 was uncoupled (in a yard) and moving forward and reverse what would be the lighting? When coupled, the facility to have tail lights OFF (which seems to be a available on most new locos) would be beneficial so perhaps a wiring modification will be needed.

 

David

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8 hours ago, Legend said:

 

I think thats a little unkind . Sam is well capable of defluffing his own locos and has a good knowledge of the mechanics of a loco .  In fact he services and maintains his own locos well.   That's not taking anything away from OOBill which is a fantastic channel .   Running on a carpet is, of course, not recommended and Sam is well aware of this , and indeed his dodgy trackwork .  But I for one am interested in how locos cope with irregularities . Not everyone has billiard table flat baseboards . You'll find that Sam was well impressed with GT3 , particularly the standard of finish 

Oh dear, I am sorry and I apologise for not writing that comment in a better and clearer way. I most certainly didn't mean to be unkind, just trying to raise a little chuckle. Like you, I get a lot from both Sam's and 00 Bill's channels and am most definitely not in a position to criticize anyone. My layout up in the attic, laid with the intention of being 'billiard table flat', has indeed a couple of unplanned inclines! Spaghetti style wiring also adds to visitors' amusement.

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2 hours ago, adb968008 said:

Someones just made enough to buy a Bachmann EMU...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KR-MODELS-GT3-LOCOMOTIVE/224396221694?autorefresh=true

 

Winning bid £500 !

 

Yes, but not enough for a Bachmann sound fitted Blue Pullman set! They will need to sell another one for that!

 

Doesn't make sense. Just sign up for the second run.

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Just now, Wagpnmaster said:

 

Yes, but not enough for a Bachmann sound fitted Blue Pullman set! They will need to sell another one for that!

 

Doesn't make sense. Just sign up for the second run.

I bought one of those.

Though I sold the controller, sound chips and box to bring the price out of low earth orbit.


I was watching this out of morbid interest.

it was £200 odd in the 10 seconds before ending... I wonder if this is a case of two people thinking the same thing... just dump £500 in belief you’ll outbid everyone else and it’ll fall somewhere around £230.. just in this case two people had the same idea ?

 

I wonder if the sale will complete ?

 

£500 seems insane. Theres 2 others on ebay as we speak, i’m sure that price may tease out a few more ?

 

Conversely the Dublo Duchess last year is going for a similar figure, so maybe £500 is the new vogue.

 

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4 minutes ago, Colin_McLeod said:

People selling them on e bay, and yet I am still waiting for mine.  :( 

 

How is the shipping of these models going Keith & Michael?

 

One of the GT3s on ebay is what looks to be a resin body kit on a Triang chassis. Its neatly done, but not quite the same thing...

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If recent experience from some of the ebay buyers is anything to go by I hope the one sold has no bent footsteps, correct bogie (!) and the lights work perfectly.. else it will be a swift return....

 

 

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Due to the warm sunny weather down here in the south east corner I've been spending most of my time in the garden getting my garden railway (the EG&SNNR - you can find some pics in the Garden Railway section of RMweb) back up and running so apart from setting-up the GT3 on my Z21 its spent most of its time been resting in the shed area.

 

All I can say is that the GT3 is a great model, well worth the wait.

 

GT3-01.jpg.55602ec61d431e2982ceeb369c210ad0.jpg

 

Keith

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20 hours ago, zr2498 said:

Tried a few experiments with the lights today via ESU Lokprogrammer.

First attempt was to get front and tail lights independently switchable via function buttons. No change. I suspect (without getting inside and examining the PCB) that they are wired into one circuit from the decoder outputs.

Next a simple change so that when the loco goes into reverse (which would only be when uncoupled), the lights (front and tail) stay on.

This has worked OK.

After downloading the decoder settings with the Lokprogrammer, I then was able to use the software alone on the PC to change the setting in the function mapping screen and then pressed the screen 'Tools' / 'Show changed CVs' so I could manually change the CVs at the ESU ECoS rather than risking a download (far too scary).

To do this:

Indexing CV's 31=16, 32=3

Change CV 257 from 20 to 16

Change CV 273 from 24 to 16

Return indexing CV's to original

image.png.237264bee1a7472b555d3237074fbff8.png

F20 does exactly the same as F0 so not sure why it was needed?

It's all reversable and I have probably gone non protypical? If the GT3 was uncoupled (in a yard) and moving forward and reverse what would be the lighting? When coupled, the facility to have tail lights OFF (which seems to be a available on most new locos) would be beneficial so perhaps a wiring modification will be needed.

 

David

Further to the lighting function tests yesterday, had another go at getting the F20 function button to do what I reckon was intended.

Ignore the CV changes above. I first, returned my settings to the original values.

 

The following CV change keeps the lighting as per the original as supplied (directional with lights going out in reverse), but now when pressing F20 the lights will maintain forward white and tail lights on irrespective of direction. In other words it disables the directional aspect.

image.png.25369d2ca1d50491f0a7f53f08eb88be.png

 

All I have done is added front and rear lights as a physical output when F20 is ON.

CV changes:

First CV31 = 16, CV32 = 9

----------------------

CV337 =   3 (from 0)

 

Return CV32 to 0 when done

 

A simple change without the need for a programmer

David

 

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1 hour ago, tetsudofan said:

Due to the warm sunny weather down here in the south east corner I've been spending most of my time in the garden getting my garden railway (the EG&SNNR - you can find some pics in the Garden Railway section of RMweb) back up and running so apart from setting-up the GT3 on my Z21 its spent most of its time been resting in the shed area.

 

All I can say is that the GT3 is a great model, well worth the wait.

 

GT3-01.jpg.55602ec61d431e2982ceeb369c210ad0.jpg

 

Keith

Interesting shedmates...

 

is GT3 going to get G&W livery ?

:D

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So, my new Zimo MX638D 21MTC decoder arrived today. I installed it in the tender and guess what, there is now a high pitched screeching noise and when I try to move GT3, it shorts and trips the controller! I then put the original dc pcb back in and it all runs fine on analogue dc.

 

I tested the decoder on my ESU decoder tester and it works fine. Just doesnt work in GT3! Am I doing something stupid here? Any help appreciated.

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4 hours ago, Wagpnmaster said:

there is now a high pitched screeching noise

It sounds like there may be an internal short in the loco/tender wiring possibly between the Motor (orange) to the RH rail pickup (red) or the motor (grey) to the  LH rail pickup (black) 

The blanking plug joins the Motor (orange) to the Rh rail pickup (red)

& the motor (grey) to the  LH rail pickup (black)

Test the resistance (with the blanking plug & decoder removed ) between the motor & rail connections. There should not be a low resistance on any of these tests (M+ to Rail+  & M- to Rail- you could also do M+ to Rail- & M- to Rail+)

My guess for the most likely places for this sort of short to happen would be the mother board in the tender or the connecting plug/socket between loco & tender

Do these tests from the tender

If the test fails with the loco, tender uncoupled then the short is in the tender

If the test passes with the loco, tender uncoupled  then the short is in the loco

 

I have had this problem with at least one loco where a badly installed pick up wire was touching a motor connection

The loco worked OK on DC but destroyed a decoder on DCC

 

If you don't feel comfortable doing these tests then it might be time to contact KR to make a warranty claim

John

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21 minutes ago, gordon s said:

They probably read this thread....

 

Those that put in high bids and then refuse to pay make a mockery of eBay. Of course the simple thing would be just to ban them, but then they’d just open another account....:angry:

It could have been offered to a lower bidder if the highest pulls out, but then they might have read this thread as well. Patience needed and the second run will have the replacement bogies and buffer.

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11 hours ago, Wagpnmaster said:

So, my new Zimo MX638D 21MTC decoder arrived today. I installed it in the tender and guess what, there is now a high pitched screeching noise and when I try to move GT3, it shorts and trips the controller! I then put the original dc pcb back in and it all runs fine on analogue dc.

 

I tested the decoder on my ESU decoder tester and it works fine. Just doesnt work in GT3! Am I doing something stupid here? Any help appreciated.

I stuck a Dapol decoder in mine and it worked fine. Likely a faulty model. As John ks says, probably best to contact KR.

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