KRModels announce a GT3 Model

[stewartingram]

Look on the box label. Mine is clearly marked as a DCC fitted (can't remember the exact wording), but I'm another one that has received the full-fat version instead of the plain dc version. Quite ironic really as I normally 'simplify' my purchases by removing any dcc bits, including extra wiring, lights, blanking plugs etc.

[Lillian_R]

11 minutes ago, newbryford said:

 

That's a 21 pin DCC blanking plug.

If you have a DCC fitted loco, they are often included as a loose item.

 

I see...thank you for that, I only ever get DC models so never seen one before. I only ordered a DC Reggo one this time too for this one and the BR Blue one, and paid for that so I guess I got upgraded for free...seems I'm a lucky lady.
However I only want a DC one so I need to go about changing it out, and I have no idea how to do that! So thats a mystery for another day. But you solved this one so thank you, I would give you a cookie but I can't so...have an...imaginary one instead? ^-^;

[TheEngineShed]

5 minutes ago, Lillian_R said:

I see...thank you for that, I only ever get DC models so never seen one before. I only ordered a DC Reggo one this time too for this one and the BR Blue one, and paid for that so I guess I got upgraded for free...seems I'm a lucky lady.
However I only want a DC one so I need to go about changing it out, and I have no idea how to do that! So thats a mystery for another day. But you solved this one so thank you, I would give you a cookie but I can't so...have an...imaginary one instead? ^-^;

 

If someone would put a DCC fitted model on their programming track, they should be able to determine if the chip is set to operate on both DC and DCC.  If it is set for both, you may not have to change the chip out, unless you want to flog it to one of your DCC friends...

[Pre Grouping fan]

11 minutes ago, Lillian_R said:

I see...thank you for that, I only ever get DC models so never seen one before. I only ordered a DC Reggo one this time too for this one and the BR Blue one, and paid for that so I guess I got upgraded for free...seems I'm a lucky lady.
However I only want a DC one so I need to go about changing it out, and I have no idea how to do that! So thats a mystery for another day. But you solved this one so thank you, I would give you a cookie but I can't so...have an...imaginary one instead? ^-^;

 

It should run fine with the DCC chip fitted. If you do want to change it, the tender body on the GT3 simply unclips then you just need to locate the chip, carefully remove it and replace it with the blanking plug. 

[Michael Hodgson]

If you were sent a DCC loco and only wanted a DC version, it would make sense to remove the decoder and sell it

[rembrow]

The dcc fitted version is programmed to run on dc as supplied, mine did. The only drawback is the speed control is less responsive and the cab lights up like a Christmas tree. I've replaced tge dcc chip with the dc blanking plate. As stated, the blanking plate comes loose in the box, separate from the other accessories, so care is needed to avoid it dropping out.

[rembrow]

13 hours ago, Lillian_R said:

I see...thank you for that, I only ever get DC models so never seen one before. I only ordered a DC Reggo one this time too for this one and the BR Blue one, and paid for that so I guess I got upgraded for free...seems I'm a lucky lady.
However I only want a DC one so I need to go about changing it out, and I have no idea how to do that! So thats a mystery for another day. But you solved this one so thank you, I would give you a cookie but I can't so...have an...imaginary one instead? ^-^;

If you change the chip for the dc blanking plate, it is quite straightforward, as both fit on to the 21 pins in the same direction. Removing the dcc chip is probably the most difficult part  as they are a tight fit, so my suggestions are.

1. Both boards have circuitry on one side and a black plastic rectangular connector for the pins on the other.

2. Make sure the dc blanking board is in the same direction as the dcc fitted chip and very importantly  the rectangular black plastic chip connector must be facing upwards. If you try and instal the other way round  you will bend some pins.

3. Remove the dcc chip by holding either side of the black plastic chip connector, pull and rock gently and it will slide up.

4. Place dc blanking plate over the pins, the black rectangular plastic bar must be on the top and above the pins, (it is the receptacle for the pins, making connections)and gently push down until fully home.

 

Edited December 24, 2021 by rembrow
Correction

[DAVREB05]

I received a DCC fitted locomotive after asking for a DC one, it can run with the

chip installed but the cab lit up with a very bright red glow.

I have since swapped the DCC chip for the supplied blanking plate.

The locomotive still runs very well but the cab does not light up anymore.

[scots region]

Somewhat off topic tangent, but, Why are GT3s wheels quartered? I.e the connecting rods offset by 90 degrees, like a steam locomotives. This is apparent even on conventional diesel-mechanicals, such as the 08. Why? I understand why quartering was used on steam machines, but why on liquid fuelled machines, when the only purpose of a connecting rod would be to transmit driving motion. Is there a mechanical need that I'm missing? Or is it a mere artefact of steam days? 

 

ScR

[Michael Hodgson]

24 minutes ago, scots region said:

Somewhat off topic tangent, but, Why are GT3s wheels quartered? I.e the connecting rods offset by 90 degrees, like a steam locomotives. This is apparent even on conventional diesel-mechanicals, such as the 08. Why? I understand why quartering was used on steam machines, but why on liquid fuelled machines, when the only purpose of a connecting rod would be to transmit driving motion. Is there a mechanical need that I'm missing? Or is it a mere artefact of steam days? 

 

ScR

It needs to be quartered, or at least the coupling rods need to be other than the same as or 180 degrees from the other side to avoid end axles going out of sync with the middle one when the crank pins are in midway position between top and bottom of their range.  It needn't be 90 degrees though.

Edited December 28, 2021 by Michael Hodgson

[scots region]

58 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:

It needs to be quartered, or at least the coupling rods need to be other than the same as or 180 degrees from the other side to avoid end axles going out of sync with the middle one when the crank pins are in midway position between top and bottom of their range.  It needn't be 90 degrees though.

 

Would that be to prevent the middle wheel from moving further than the two, just to picture what I think you mean? 

[Michael Hodgson]

2 hours ago, scots region said:

 

Would that be to prevent the middle wheel from moving further than the two, just to picture what I think you mean? 

Coupling rod moving out of the horizontal when the crankpins and axles centres are in a straight line - the opposite coupling rod constrains any tendency to unequal rotation of axles as long as it is not in a similar straight line 

[SDJR7F88]

Just gonna leave this hear... 

[stewartingram]

Yuk! What fairground ride is that?

[Hilux5972]

16 hours ago, SDJR7F88 said:

Just gonna leave this hear... 

Looks fantastic. Makes me wish I’d bought one of those too but happy with my chocolate one anyway. 

[Markwj]

15 minutes ago, Hilux5972 said:

Looks fantastic. Makes me wish I’d bought one of those too but happy with my chocolate one anyway. 

The opposite for me glad I didn’t buy (but got the chocolate one) I think the yellow cab doors killed it for me but we all have our own opinions.

[Dragonfly]

Still think it would look incredible in BR green. Was intending to buy one to get it resprayed, but missed the boat this time. Fingers crossed for a 3rd run! 

[cctransuk]

10 minutes ago, Dragonfly said:

Still think it would look incredible in BR green. Was intending to buy one to get it resprayed, but missed the boat this time. Fingers crossed for a 3rd run! 

 

I could not agree more; I would plump for GWR-style orange / black /orange lining in the same places as the lining on the chocolate version. Strictly though, given the time of its introduction, it should be in a version of the BR green diesel loco livery - a duck-egg blue horizontal strip at mid-height or lower; red buffer beams and, later, small yellow panels. Definitely, no full yellow ends!

 

.... or - diesel locos were green; electric locos were electric blue; how about gas turbine locos in Improved Engine Green (yellow ochre as per D5579 / D1015)?

 

The BR blue version of the model would be far more believeable without the yellow splashed all over it. The overwhelming impression of BR motive power at that time was overall blue, with yellow ends; the attentions of a madman with a yellow paintbrush would never have been tolerated, and the model therefore fails to convey the essential gloom of the BR blue period.

 

Just my two penn'orth,

CJI.

[Darius43]

Received my replacement GT3 front pony truck in the post today.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

[zr2498]

5 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

Received my replacement GT3 front pony truck in the post today.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Was there a replacement buffer beam as well?

[Darius43]

1 minute ago, zr2498 said:

Was there a replacement buffer beam as well?

No.  Just the pony truck.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

[zoomer1979]

Yes, I was expecting a buffer beam too, as it was clearly not right either.

 

Neil.

[Bilbo]

56 minutes ago, zoomer1979 said:

Yes, I was expecting a buffer beam too, as it was clearly not right either.

 

Neil.

Yes got mine today as well and all I had was a bogie. The label on the cellophane packet says "GT3 Bogie Boffer(Buffer) Beam Parts"  but no Buffer beam. Am I and others missing something here ?

[Bilbo]

1 hour ago, zoomer1979 said:

Yes, I was expecting a buffer beam too, as it was clearly not right either.

 

Neil.

Queried via messaging to KR models. This is the reply I got."The issue with the buffer beam was the length of the hand rail. If you ease the handrail into the holes in the top of the buffer beam, this will fix the issue. We've not sent out new buffer beams."

Seems ok to me but haven't attempted it yet.

[zr2498]

1 hour ago, Bilbo said:

Queried via messaging to KR models. This is the reply I got."The issue with the buffer beam was the length of the hand rail. If you ease the handrail into the holes in the top of the buffer beam, this will fix the issue. We've not sent out new buffer beams."

Seems ok to me but haven't attempted it yet.

On the 1st run I found that the handrails and the holes in the buffer beam were not aligned. So pushing the handrails into the holes would splay the handrails = looking worse. In a previous post on this thread I added a photo to show trimming a little off the handrails and filling / painting the holes that were in the wrong position. I do not know if this was just on my model, or if it applied to others. As I had taken a little too much off the handrails (should have been flush with the platform), a small piece of tube was added to the ends of the handrails to represent the socket which can be seen on the prototype.

 

On the 2nd run it looks as though the handrail has been shortened and the hole in the platform removed so there is no buffer beam / platform contact which might cause a deflection. Note that the buffer beam can easily be removed to get access for trimming the handrail.

Edited December 31, 2021 by zr2498
Info added