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MK1 Bachmann coach


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A common problem.

 

Unscrew the bogies, and then you'll see one screw each end outboard of the bogie pivot; undo that and then hold the equipment boxes on the undercarriage and pull. Note that the ends are attached to the underframe; you're aiming to pull the sides and roof away from the ends and underframe. 

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A common problem.

 

Unscrew the bogies, and then you'll see one screw each end outboard of the bogie pivot; undo that and then hold the equipment boxes on the undercarriage and pull. Note that the ends are attached to the underframe; you're aiming to pull the sides and roof away from the ends and underframe. 

 

In addition before you start pulling there is usually a third screw to undo which is visible in the middle of the underframe. Also you will need to exercise care with the piping on the roof, it is not glued and comes away easily if you prise it upwards with a knife or similar tool.

 

Obvious l think but make sure take note of how you dismantle everything because you will need to do the reverse when putting the coach back together.

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Not too hard to undo but, I find, a real pain to put back together.  The piping is the worst for popping back into place.  Either it gets slightly bent in the undoing process or it just won't go back.  But the results of breaking in can often be very pleasing.  I have added passengers, curtains and window blinds to a number of vehicles including sleeping cars to good effect.

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You're right about the need for care in removing the filler pipes, of course - and about the difficulty of fitting them back in their holes; broaching the holes helps with re-fitting. 

 

If you are intending to weather the roof of the carriage then I suggest that this is done after you put the coach back together. My experience is that spraying the roof post re-construction is a good way of covering over any scratches and the loss of colour from the pipework.

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Adding to what's been said, I've also taken the weights out of mine. The coach as manufactured weighs 160g, the weight is around 30g, and so there's enough left to hold the track quite happily unless you want to do a scale 200mph round 12 inch radius curves!

 

I find this helps on my layout which has hills.

 

John.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Of course it is entirely up to you what adhesive you use, but I personally never allow MEK or any similar liquid anywhere near glazing.

I use a product called 'Micro Kristal Klear' I used it a lot years ago when doing plastic aircraft modelling.. I used it for fixing aeroplane

canopies navigation lights etc etc. It works very well as an adhesive , but it's main advantage is that it dries totally clear, and does no damage to the glazing.

Just a thought, you don't need to take any notice of me, but I can tell you there various products for plastic modellers that railway modellers seem to have no knowledge of.

One was a liquid you could dab on to waterslide transfers/decals after you have applied them and they are still wet, that would make them adhere completely to the surface hiding all transfer film, and making them look as though expertly painted on. I am not sure of the name, but I think it

could be 'Transfix' . I have a friend who is in to military modelling, I will ask him..

 

Rob

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On my fleet of Bachmann Mark 1 coaches I have managed to destroy the screw heads on several of the 3 screws which hold the underframe to the coach body (not the 2 screws that secure the bogies to the underframe). I am hoping that these are generic small screws where I can buy replacements from a DIY or similar store.

 

Can anyone tell me the correct name for this screw or where I might get suitable replacements?

 

Thanks Rob

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On my fleet of Bachmann Mark 1 coaches I have managed to destroy the screw heads on several of the 3 screws which hold the underframe to the coach body (not the 2 screws that secure the bogies to the underframe). I am hoping that these are generic small screws where I can buy replacements from a DIY or similar store.

 

Can anyone tell me the correct name for this screw or where I might get suitable replacements?

 

Thanks Rob

 

I suspect these are a Bachmann special, made of something that barely merits the term "metal".

 

In my case I've had several where the screw head slots round off and can't be turned, requiring some work with the drill to dig the screws out. All because someone in the factory went bonkers with a power screwdriver!

 

I then discovered that you don't really need all three anyway. Two are quite enough and I suspect one would do at a pinch.

 

John.

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I suspect these are a Bachmann special, made of something that barely merits the term "metal".

 

In my case I've had several where the screw head slots round off and can't be turned, requiring some work with the drill to dig the screws out. All because someone in the factory went bonkers with a power screwdriver!

 

I then discovered that you don't really need all three anyway. Two are quite enough and I suspect one would do at a pinch.

 

John.

 

Thanks John

 

I agree 2 screws looks sufficient but I still want to find a replacement if I can because the rate at which they self destruct is worrying. I guess they are a cheap and light weight alloy hence their lack of strength. The screws are bevel headed measuring 6mm in length and 2mm diameter; similar ones look readily available on Ebay. For the few pence they cost I shall give one of these a go if I cannot get the actual Bachmann details. 

 

I have also e-mailed Bachmann's Customer Service who have always been helpful in the past. Hopefully somewhere along the way I will get the information I need.

 

Rob

Edited by young37215
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  • 1 year later...
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Resurrecting this old thread, earlier today whilst dismantling a Bachmann Mk1 the head of the screw that holds the bogie to the underframe became unusable meaning I need a replacement. As has been commented on before, the quaity of the metal used to make the screws is not great and I really would like to get a supply of spares for both types.

 

A year or two back Bachmann Spares quoted me a £1 per screw for the ones that hold the body to the underframe which I thought a little excessive!  My efforts in buying cheap Ebay screws that looked like they might work did'nt deliver a solution. I am stuck, I have no idea how to 'measure' the 2 types of screw so that I can buy some.

 

Can anyone add to this, better still tell me what sort of screws are required and where I can source them.

 

Thanks Rob

 

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2 hours ago, AlexHolt said:

The roofs on the Bachmann Mk1s just clip off once you remove the handrails that join them to the body. You really don't need to unscrew the bogies or the screws that hold the body to the frames to access the inside of the coach. 

 

How unusable did the screws become? If still possible you could put an elastic band between the screwdriver and screw head as it helps the screwdriver to grip and tighten the screw if the head is damaged.

 

Thanks for the thought but it's replacements for each of the 2 types of screw found in a Mk1 that I am after. The Bachmann standard offering is cheap and not very cheerful hence it quickly fails so I want to be able to replace them at my discretion.   

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5 hours ago, AlexHolt said:

If still possible you could put an elastic band between the screwdriver and screw head as it helps the screwdriver to grip and tighten the screw if the head is damaged.

Good tip that is.  I never heard of that before.  Thanks.

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Guest Half-full
5 hours ago, young37215 said:

 

Thanks for the thought but it's replacements for each of the 2 types of screw found in a Mk1 that I am after. The Bachmann standard offering is cheap and not very cheerful hence it quickly fails so I want to be able to replace them at my discretion.   

I find using the correct sized screwdriver helps preserve the heads on soft metal screws - not saying that you haven't at all, just speaking from past experience!

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13 hours ago, Half-full said:

I find using the correct sized screwdriver helps preserve the heads on soft metal screws - not saying that you haven't at all, just speaking from past experience!

 

I agree but the fact remains the screws are poor quality and prone to damage, therefore finding a what should be a few pence replacement seems a sensible course of action. I just dont know how to best achieve this 

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22 hours ago, young37215 said:

Can anyone add to this, better still tell me what sort of screws are required and where I can source them.

 

Thanks Rob

 

Measure the thread diameter and it's length, them count the TPI or TPM as its probably a metric thread.  Measure the head diameter them do a Google search for it.  Hope this helps.

 

Mike

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