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3D Printing in 2mm Scale


TomE
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5 minutes ago, queensquare said:

 

Never come across these, what a handsome beast.

 

Jerry

 

They were Ivatt's original choice for the London suburban sets and 41 were built in total. Unfortunately they proved too heavy for the Metropolitan City Widened Lines, which gave birth to the N1 class. The class got moved out of London to work as goods locomotives and shunters. A small number later returned to London to work empty coaching stock but the whole class had been withdrawn by February 1934.

 

I've got a bit of a soft spot for this class but sadly last London based example was scrapped in 1931 (a year before the 1932-39 period I'm modelling). I might have to bend history a little bit and include one anyway... One day...

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5 minutes ago, Atso said:

 

They were Ivatt's original choice for the London suburban sets and 41 were built in total. Unfortunately they proved too heavy for the Metropolitan City Widened Lines, which gave birth to the N1 class. The class got moved out of London to work as goods locomotives and shunters. A small number later returned to London to work empty coaching stock but the whole class had been withdrawn by February 1934.

 

I've got a bit of a soft spot for this class but sadly last London based example was scrapped in 1931 (a year before the 1932-39 period I'm modelling). I might have to bend history a little bit and include one anyway... One day...

 

John Greenwood has long employed 'flexitime', and I've embraced it. Even Tony Wright has a Deltic on LB, the station was long closed by the time they arrived!

 

Jerry

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On 11/09/2019 at 11:02, Atso said:

The first passes at the C12 and N1 came off the printer late last night. I've given them a clean in IPA, light boxed and removed the supports, but otherwise they are as they were printed.

 

20190911_095003.jpg.9a6c2acea4775307f35c5b40a0482f91.jpg

 

20190911_095056.jpg.6dfe45691d2d60501b7ea4f140c2c92b.jpg

 

I've done a bit of testing and found that the C12 body can be weighted to around 30g (plus whatever the weight of the chassis will be).

 

What resin and settings are you using for these? I'm lucky to get anything usable off the thing these days unless its something that can print flat to the bed like a bust or something! These are incredible with zero distortion.

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20 minutes ago, RBE said:

 

What resin and settings are you using for these? I'm lucky to get anything usable off the thing these days unless its something that can print flat to the bed like a bust or something! These are incredible with zero distortion.

 

The resin is Anycubic Grey, sliced at 20 microns, and the exposures are 50 seconds for the attachment layers and 8 seconds for the rest (around 8 hours to print the locos). I offset the model by 10 degrees in the X and Y planes and add a 0.4mm sacrificial skirt around the model and add some 0.4mm bulkheads to help support certain areas; normal printer supports are used to support the skirt and overhanging interior features. The skirt can be carefully removed with a few passes of a scalpel blade and carefully snapping it out. Any remaining bits of the skirt can be taken off using sanding sticks.

 

It takes a bit to trial and error, but it does help support the model during printing and reduce distortions.

 

We've also installed a small heater into the printer and upgraded the Z rail using the same kit Justin has.

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22 hours ago, queensquare said:

 

Never come across these, what a handsome beast.

 

Jerry

The late Bill Blackburn started making one of these 0-8-2s forty+ years ago in N gauge.  We could always do one in this livery:

DDEB081F-8734-488C-A749-CCAB10863B38.jpeg.36e16e533cb1ba3df2d0219e397c0a19.jpeg

It would look rather good storming up through Belle Isle!

 

Tim

Edited by CF MRC
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23 hours ago, Atso said:

 

The resin is Anycubic Grey, sliced at 20 microns, and the exposures are 50 seconds for the attachment layers and 8 seconds for the rest (around 8 hours to print the locos). I offset the model by 10 degrees in the X and Y planes and add a 0.4mm sacrificial skirt around the model and add some 0.4mm bulkheads to help support certain areas; normal printer supports are used to support the skirt and overhanging interior features. The skirt can be carefully removed with a few passes of a scalpel blade and carefully snapping it out. Any remaining bits of the skirt can be taken off using sanding sticks.

 

It takes a bit to trial and error, but it does help support the model during printing and reduce distortions.

 

We've also installed a small heater into the printer and upgraded the Z rail using the same kit Justin has.

Thanks for that. Very informative. I have the same resin and have been using the same settings actually. I don't have the z kit but will have a bit more of a play. It tends to be the supports where I have trouble. Maybe I'm pushing it a little and not putting enough in. 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys,

 

Wow, this is some great work on this thread, I'm so impressed! But let's face it, all of TomE's and 'Atso's' work is amazing...HAHAHA!

 

I've just cancelled my pre order on a Prusa SL1 and instead bought an Elegoo Mars resin printer, arrives tomorrow :)

 

As I haven't started any 3D modelling and am keen to test the print quality, I was wondering if any of you guys would mine sharing a wagon model with me so I can test print it on the Mars tomorrow? I'm really looking forward to seeing what the printer can do in 2mm scale. Something like the GER open wagon or the wagon I see TomE printing?

 

As I'm modelling Sheffield Park on the bluebell, there are many loco's and wagons that would need scratch building/3D printing :)

 

Many thanks for any help you can offer, guys!

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  • 2 months later...
On 12/09/2019 at 12:04, Atso said:

 

The resin is Anycubic Grey, sliced at 20 microns, and the exposures are 50 seconds for the attachment layers and 8 seconds for the rest (around 8 hours to print the locos). I offset the model by 10 degrees in the X and Y planes and add a 0.4mm sacrificial skirt around the model and add some 0.4mm bulkheads to help support certain areas; normal printer supports are used to support the skirt and overhanging interior features. The skirt can be carefully removed with a few passes of a scalpel blade and carefully snapping it out. Any remaining bits of the skirt can be taken off using sanding sticks.

 

It takes a bit to trial and error, but it does help support the model during printing and reduce distortions.

 

We've also installed a small heater into the printer and upgraded the Z rail using the same kit Justin has.

 

I have been playing with a Photon over that last couple of months. Nothing like as complicated as that yet. How do you find the dimensional accuracy of your prints? I found on a wagon body that it printed a bit oversize. (Anycubic green resin that came with the printer) I got it down to less than 1% out by fiddling with the settings. I was just wondering how other users found it and any suggestions to improve it.

Is the Z axis mod worth getting?

Finally, any chance of seeing a print or the design with the skirt? That sounds interesting, but I am having problems visualising it.

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On 12/09/2019 at 12:04, Atso said:

 

The resin is Anycubic Grey, sliced at 20 microns, and the exposures are 50 seconds for the attachment layers and 8 seconds for the rest (around 8 hours to print the locos). I offset the model by 10 degrees in the X and Y planes and add a 0.4mm sacrificial skirt around the model and add some 0.4mm bulkheads to help support certain areas; normal printer supports are used to support the skirt and overhanging interior features. The skirt can be carefully removed with a few passes of a scalpel blade and carefully snapping it out. Any remaining bits of the skirt can be taken off using sanding sticks.

 

It takes a bit to trial and error, but it does help support the model during printing and reduce distortions.

 

We've also installed a small heater into the printer and upgraded the Z rail using the same kit Justin has.

 

I have been playing with a Photon over that last couple of months. Nothing like as complicated as that yet. How do you find the dimensional accuracy of your prints? I found on a wagon body that it printed a bit oversize. (Anycubic green resin that came with the printer) I got it down to less than 1% out by fiddling with the settings. I was just wondering how other users found it and any suggestions to improve it.

Is the Z axis mod worth getting?

Finally, any chance of seeing a print or the design with the skirt? That sounds interesting, but I am having problems visualising it.

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  • 5 weeks later...
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Hi everyone. 

 

This virus lockdown business has given me a bit of time to make progress on a few projects for the printer. 

 

The first is a replacement BR1F tender for the Dapol 9F so I can accurately model 92212 as she appears in preservation. 

 

This is the most recent test print off the Photon:

 

957AD82F-81BE-45B3-9A35-4AC40FB2CF05.jpeg.90aeb39dcf121f34cad19eec0145f312.jpeg

 

A few minor issues to resolve but I'm pretty pleased with how this has turned out. 

 

Currently being drawn up in fusion is a Mk.1 Griddle coach. This is intended as a straight swap onto a Farish Chassis and to have a Farish roof fitted. Not sure if it will work, and it will push the Photon to it's limit size wise, but should be interesting to see how it comes out! If the full body proves impossible to print well, then I'll just print sides and graft them onto a Farish body. 

 

56BE0D18-073A-4E42-B8C4-D35DDD65CC54_1_201_a.jpeg.1af266fc2cac4579eb09a18810649341.jpeg

 

Cheers, 

 

Tom. 

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Nice work Tom!

 

My own most recent print has been somewhat less elaborate.

 

20200423_213930-1.jpg.807c7d41abf9c78293cc2f616621b336.jpg

 

Some tie bars to make up to allow turnout blades to pivot. These have been printed in Siraya Blu which is a tough (and expensive!) resin. It will withstand much more abuse than the Anycubic resins and is reasonably resistant to soldering temperatures.

 

20200423_214008-1.jpg.483bac5982c8be68f39709457a116125.jpg

 

20200423_214039-1.jpg.636656b89096471cfd2f9b6c7c70791f.jpg

 

The pivots are brass dressmaker pins, cut to length and soldered to the blades.

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Just now, njee20 said:

I didn’t think Siraya resins were available over here?

 

They're not. It got shipped over from the States. Very expensive way of doing things but worth it - hopefully they'll be available in the UK before too long.

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On 22/04/2020 at 14:13, TomE said:

Hi everyone. 

 

This virus lockdown business has given me a bit of time to make progress on a few projects for the printer. 

 

The first is a replacement BR1F tender for the Dapol 9F so I can accurately model 92212 as she appears in preservation. 

 

This is the most recent test print off the Photon:

 

957AD82F-81BE-45B3-9A35-4AC40FB2CF05.jpeg.90aeb39dcf121f34cad19eec0145f312.jpeg

 

A few minor issues to resolve but I'm pretty pleased with how this has turned out.

 

What size do you draw your rivets, and spacing? I found they melded to adjacent structure on two prints that I had done on Anycubic printers in different resins. One resin was green and the other white-ish.

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The ones on the tender are all 0.15mm diameter, and extruded by 0.15mm. They're just simple cylinders as I found that they naturally round themselves off anyway due to it not bing possible to support them. The spacing on the body was worked out by counting the number on the real thing! 

 

You do have to be careful when putting them next to other features and how you space them. You can probably see that those on the rear coal space bulkhead and lifting rings haven't printed that well and they were closer together than any of the others. 

 

The tender in the photo was printed with a layer thickness of 0.01 and using Phrozen ABS like grey which i've found is one of the best resins for printing small details. 

 

Tom. 

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Decided to test print a section of the griddle to check profile, dimensions and generally see how things came out. A few things that need adjusting but otherwise not too bad! 
 

64DCCEDA-E6BC-407A-B204-F6EDF41D7878.jpeg.792dbae044ecf8cd5099d0f129895c29.jpegC7E85CFB-A256-4CB5-8260-8BF1B9D66480.jpeg.93cd94f7239ed88ca0a6d6d9d24ab64e.jpeg

 

Tom. 

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