3D Printing in 2mm Scale

[justin1985]

14 minutes ago, MikeTrice said:

Just came across it here: https://github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs/blob/master/FAQ.md

 

That's the one. 

 

https://github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs/blob/master/temp/slice_angles-van_kesteren.jpg

 

It certainly makes sense, and using those angles has worked for me. But whether that is scientific success, or luck, I'm far from sure!

[Atso]

My D2 has now been printed.

 

 

The Siraya Blu is much more dimensionally accurate than the grey resin and was also easy to tap an M2 thread so that I could screw the keeper plate to the chassis. The pin holding the bogie was tapped to M1.6 and again, the Blu resin has withstood the abuse nicely.

[garethashenden]

Take two. I printed three more vans, one tipped at 15 degrees in two axes, one tipped at 29.5 degrees in one axis, and one tipped at 29.5 degrees in two axes. As expected, the last one was the best result. I had another look at the first one I printed, at 0 degrees. It’s arguably the best so far actuallu. The roof has accidental ribs, but the sides and ends are better. 
 

Edited May 1, 2020 by garethashenden

[Yorkshire Square]

4 hours ago, garethashenden said:

Take two. I printed three more vans, one tipped at 15 degrees in two axes, one tipped at 29.5 degrees in one axis, and one tipped at 29.5 degrees in two axes. As expected, the last one was the best result. I had another look at the first one I printed, at 0 degrees. It’s arguably the best so far actuallu. The roof has accidental ribs, but the sides and ends are better. 
 

It seems to be a trade off between avoid excessive suction and hence shearing from the build plate or distortion, or pixilation on the vertical planes. Once you move the vertical faces away from 90 degrees, you get an element of stepping but you increase the chances of a successful print. 
 

I’ve tried to avoid angling the print across both the x and y axes as this seems to exaggerate the effect.

[Atso]

Interesting to read other's experiences printing at various orientations. I've found that a 10-20 degree angle on the Y and Z axis with a print layer of 0.02mm (8 sec exposure using Anycubic Grey) gives me the best results. Like Tom, Justin and others, I like to add a skirt to the model and attach as many of the supports to this as possible as I find that this helps mitigate the suction effect.

[danmk1]

After admiring the work and trying to absorb the knowledge shared I have recently worked on my first fusion 360 project.

 

I am modelling Bordon Station, in Hampshire, which served the local villiage and the troops at the Longmoor Military Railway.

 

Rolling stock for the LMR isnt readily available and after doing some research I planed to replicate these, which going by the running number they had a number of.

After many hours and some choice language I came up with this in Fusion.

So prints were then sent to my Photon and various x and y axis angles, layer thicknesses and exposure times were tried.

Still not sure on the best outcome and Ive run out of primer to put a quick coat get a less transparent green result.

 

Unfortunately I am also running low on the Resin and have seen mentioned that the Anycubic grey seems to be popular, but is currently out of stock at Amazon. Has anyone else used different resins with results they were happy with?

 

Thanks in advance and thanks again for the advice/knowledge thats already been shared.

 

Dan

 

 

Edited May 4, 2020 by danmk1
Spelling

[TomE]

Hi Dan. 

 

Not bad for a first print! 

 

I've been using Phrozen ABS like grey resin almost exclusively of late and I'm very happy with it, but Resin can be a subjective thing and others will have different favourites!

 

You may wish to experiment by adding a sacrificial skirt to the wagon, one that can be removed after printing. I've become a big fan of this as it helps keeps bottom edges nice and straight and keeps most of the heavy supports off the model. It does add a little extra printing time but I think that's a decent trade off! 

 

Please keep posting your print and interesting layout you are building! 

 

Tom.  

 

[garethashenden]

The Anycubic Black is a bit thinner than the grey, I’ve had good luck with it.

[danmk1]

1 hour ago, TomE said:

Hi Dan. 

 

Not bad for a first print! 

 

I've been using Phrozen ABS like grey resin almost exclusively of late and I'm very happy with it, but Resin can be a subjective thing and others will have different favourites!

 

You may wish to experiment by adding a sacrificial skirt to the wagon, one that can be removed after printing. I've become a big fan of this as it helps keeps bottom edges nice and straight and keeps most of the heavy supports off the model. It does add a little extra printing time but I think that's a decent trade off! 

 

Please keep posting your print and interesting layout you are building! 

 

Tom.  

 

Thanks Tom

Yes it is a very subjective question as to a good resin.

Had read about the skirts. Are these added in the slicer. I have been using the supplied one which doesn't seem to have that option or do I need a better Chitubox?

 

I found the small branch line with military connections subject interesting and have plans for a number of rolling stock ideas, unfortunately I haven'y started a build thread on the layout on the forum, yet.

 

1 hour ago, garethashenden said:

The Anycubic Black is a bit thinner than the grey, I’ve had good luck with it.

Hi Gareth?

 

You mention its thinner. Have you had to alter many of the settings for printing, Amazon does have the Black option in stock?

 

Dan

[garethashenden]

Dan,

It needs a few more seconds than the green, the advantage of the thinness is you can have very small holes and otherwise sharper detail than any of the other anycubic resins. 

[RBTKraisee]

5 hours ago, danmk1 said:

After admiring the work and trying to absorb the knowledge shared I have recently worked on my first fusion 360 project.

 

I am modelling Bordon Station, in Hampshire, which served the local villiage and the troops at the Longmoor Military Railway.

[SNIP]

5 hours ago, danmk1 said:

 

Unfortunately I am also running low on the Resin and have seen mentioned that the Anycubic grey seems to be popular, but is currently out of stock at Amazon. Has anyone else used different resins with results they were happy with?

 

 

Bordon?   Not far from my old stomping grounds in Fareham

 

Not sure if they have one for the UK, but Anycubic has a direct sales shop here in the US (anycubic.com) and with 10% off coupon codes I just bought 1 liter of Clear for $37.50 shipped - about £30.15 in real money Received it 3 days later, which is a heckuva lot faster than Amazon's delayed service right now.

 

In addition to Grey I can recommend their Clear, Black, Aqua Blue, Orange and Pink, all down to at least 0.025mm layer thickness.   I've been experimenting with 0.022mm and 0.020mm layers recently, but only with the Clear.   So far so good.   I also tried a brand of Clear from "iFun".   Not easy to find, but works great - final parts are substantially clearer than Anycubic's, mainly because the isopropyl cleaning process causes my Anycubic Clear to go a bit milky.

 

I haven't tried any of their plant based resins yet, but I'd imagine they're just as good.

 

Here is my latest clear print of my first Gresley Triplet LNER 3rd class restaurant car (N 1:148 scale), with a previous grey print that I used to test Mike Trice's teaking technique out on.

 

A dumb question I have for the group here:   If I print my own bogies for these, is there a particular design approach to creating the wheel mount points that I need to use, or should it just be a simple hole that the pointy bits of the axle's loosely stick into?

 

Ross.

 

Edited May 4, 2020 by RBTKraisee

[monkeysarefun]

Not sure about there but down here its worth regularly checking out the Anycubic official ebay store because resin prices can go up and down dramatically for no apparent reason.  At one point I managed to get 2 litres of resin delivered for the price that they had been selling 1 litre for a week earlier. Shortly after that it went back up again.

 

Monocure resin is a good alternative. It seems to be made locally here in Sydney though, I can pick it up at the factory door which gvies me a price advantage which is its main reason I'v bought it.  Not sure if its available OS or the price compared to Anycubic etc. Their flex is really good for making standard resin less brittle.

 

Another Australian resin supplier I've just found is Aurarum or something. They advertise various grades  of resin - "tough" "ABS-like" "High transparency" "Flexible" "elastic" "Water washable" and "High Tenacity"(!) in various colours .  Going by the Chinglish  instruction leaflet that came with the bottles of "ABS-like" I got to try, they appear to be some kind of generic Chinese resin but they were cheap-as so worth a try I reckon.

Edited May 4, 2020 by monkeysarefun

[Caley Jim]

10 hours ago, RBTKraisee said:

If I print my own bogies for these, is there a particular design approach to creating the wheel mount points that I need to use, or should it just be a simple hole that the pointy bits of the axle's loosely stick into?

Would it not be better to print a hole into which an Association top hat bearing could be fitted? 

 

Jim 

[TomE]

15 hours ago, danmk1 said:

Had read about the skirts. Are these added in the slicer. I have been using the supplied one which doesn't seem to have that option or do I need a better Chitubox?

 

You'll need to add them to the model in Fusion, the supplied slicer & Chitubox only add supports. With the griddle coach the I made a 'cut here' line just wide enough for a razor saw so it should hopefully be easy to remove them. The idea is the skirt keeps as much support off the actual model as possible, reducing clean up and risk of damage when removing them.

 

Tom.  

 

Edited May 5, 2020 by TomE

[MikeTrice]

2 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

Would it not be better to print a hole into which an Association top hat bearing could be fitted? 

 

Jim 

Or even Dundas wheels/bearings: https://dundasmodels.co.uk/webstore/index.php/hikashop-menu-for-module-108/category/511-dundas-models-009-wheels-bearings

[RBTKraisee]

Crikey, these brass bearings are unbelievably tiny!   They are going to be most interesting to handle.   Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

Looking it up, I note some folk say the Dundas/Peco (I assume they're related to Dundas Models) bearings have a strange inner shape which can cause running issues, so the 2mm Scale Association or NBrass ones perform better.

 

I'll buy a pack from somewhere and compare the running characteristics both with and without these bearings and I'll report my results here - just they'll take a while to get to me here in Florida so it may be a month or so.

 

Ross.

Edited May 5, 2020 by RBTKraisee

[Caley Jim]

The 2mm SA bearings have an internal cone angle of 75°, to suit the 65° cone on the end of the axles.  Of course you have to be a member to be able to buy them.

 

Jim

[RBTKraisee]

Rather than take up a load of space here duplicating my post from my workbench, here's a link to it, describing some of my recent slicer issues with AnyCubic's Photon Workshop package and Chitubox.

 

In brief; when it slices something, Workshop sometimes puts unexpected extra material in to support elements it deems are not supported, even when they definitely are!   And Chitubox can randomly add membrane layers (and actually completely blank layers too!) when any tube structure opens or closes - like when a window starts on the next layer.   And my version of Chitubox is also printing everything ~5% too large.   Oh what fun it is to be learning to 3D print stuff!

 

Ross.

[TomE]

First full print and assembly of both halves of the Griddle.
 

This just might work you know! 
 

 

 

I have a few alterations to make in the CAD for the final version. The body has come out about 1/2 a mm too long so a small slice needs taking out, and the door outlines are still too shallow. I’m going to have to go ‘full Matchbox’ on these I think to get them to appear as per the rest of the Farish mk.1s, but overall I’m pretty pleased with how this has come out! 
 

Tom. 

[MikeTrice]

Looks brilliant.

[TomE]

Interior underway for the Griddle. Made in the same style as the Farish interiors for consistency.

 

As with the body this will need to be split for printing. 
 

Tom. 

[Atso]

My latest CAD is of an ex-GNR R23 Class A tender. I'm not convinced that I've got the curve on the coal plate right yet so I'll be consulting my copies of Yeadon's further before sending this to the printer.

 

 

[garethashenden]

I put together the underframe for my LSWR van, 10’6” RCH shop number 2-239. I seem to have accidentally bought the whole stock as they’re now TOS, sorry about that. Had to make a change to the printed file, I forgot that the underframe would need to sit inside the body slightly. I fixed that and printed another, unfortunately it didn’t quite print properly. About a third of it didn’t attach to the build plate, so it’s got a curve at the bottom. Only really noticeable when fitted with the underframe. Shall try again. I may try drawing up some LSWR axleboxes at some point.

 

Edited May 10, 2020 by garethashenden

[TomE]

Griddle interior printed, including cups and triangular sandwich box...

 

 

Tom

[RBE]

Those are great Tom.