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3D Printing in 2mm Scale


TomE
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On 02/01/2021 at 22:13, animotion said:

Judging by the quality of the print printing the side at .4mm thickness was pushing the bounds of the printer. If the wagon is going to be a loaded one of have a sheet over it then I would think about redesigning the wagon so that the sides and floor could be printer flat and assembled like a kit. I don’t do much 2mm printing but here is a loco I did the artwork for and printed on my printer.

Vangaurd 1.jpg

Vangaurd 2.jpg

Looks stunning.. foot steps look brill....if price is right fancy scaling up to 3mm? Feel free to PM if that's something your up for.

G

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12 hours ago, TomE said:

 

Looks great! What printer are you using?

 

The next project for me is Handyside Bridge, the former Kings Cross footbridge, which spans the yard at Ropley:

 

IMG_6474.jpeg.b61edd3e9940dfb1549ae99ad8be7d87.jpeg

 

Tom. 

Clearly you have got your ‘eye in’ for Handyside Kings Cross structures, Tom.  Would you be game to turning your eye northwards a few hundred yards, as I think they (or a modified version) would work well for the potato warehouse canopies on CF.  These are only 28mm high to the eves. As you can see on the photo it would only really be the columns and perhaps the decorative bits supporting the canopies that are visible. 
461651E6-C310-45A9-9C5E-50C32867AF49.jpe

PM if it’s easier.
 

Tim

Edited by CF MRC
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Good choice of printer. What resin are you using ? You wouldn't stand a chance of printing that on a FDM machine. I'm surprised modellers are still buying them when the price of DLP machines are so atractive and the quality so much better. I suspect the FDM machines will become obsolete in the near future. Let us see the results when its printed.

 

Tom

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6 hours ago, TomE said:

 

This is for N Gauge, and is 47mm tall. I have printed an earlier version, albeit not the full height and without brackets, with success so it should be ok. The mono x is doing it's thing as I type, so in about 10 1/2 hours we'll find out! 

 

Tom.  

 

When I did some pillars for Jim Watt's footbridge they printed fine at Shapeways. Although the decorative parts were affixed to a base for the footbridge itself protecting them from damage in that case.

 

Chris

 

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8 hours ago, animotion said:

Good choice of printer. What resin are you using ? You wouldn't stand a chance of printing that on a FDM machine. I'm surprised modellers are still buying them when the price of DLP machines are so atractive and the quality so much better. I suspect the FDM machines will become obsolete in the near future. Let us see the results when its printed.

 

Tom

 

Hi.

 

I have to disagree with that. FDM machines have their place and they can produce things that DLP printers cannot produce as easily. I use both types and generally, my default would be the FDM machine purely because how easily and quickly I can generate something compared to the latter. The machines compliment each other.

Like with everything, the real secret lies in using the right tool for the job, 3DP is not the perfect solution for everything. It has its place but usually there are other ways of producing something that results in far better results.

 

J.

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  • RMweb Gold

Not too bad, baring in mind they are 47mm tall!

 

B5680A71-67B4-4F48-8E47-59731F73890C.jpeg.462fb51b6e44660170f3379b3e8dd01a.jpeg

 

The horizontal line across the lower section of the base is a result of me pausing the print to check it was working. 

 

Tom.  

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On 23/12/2020 at 17:30, Ian Morgan said:

If anyone wants to give this LBSCR 5 plank open wagon a try, let me know how it goes. If it is workable, I will push it to the 2mm website.

 

It is designed to fit the Association 9'6" wheelbase chassis (2-328), but the solebars and chassis 'floor' need shortening somewhat.

 

LBSCR5plank_in_Blender.jpg.1d5530e8c1a6544fcdfb6eba0794ad55.jpg

 

IMG_20201223_172558

 

 

LBSCR_5Plank_fixed.stl 7.76 MB · 21 downloads

Just tried this wagon Ian thanks not to bad for out of the box slicing think I prefer the tilited version although removing the supports may be interesting

 

20210a.jpg.068b092a6538aee2e2aece2a9d92d24c.jpg

 

 

Nick B

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9 hours ago, TomE said:

Not too bad, baring in mind they are 47mm tall!

 

B5680A71-67B4-4F48-8E47-59731F73890C.jpeg.462fb51b6e44660170f3379b3e8dd01a.jpeg

 

The horizontal line across the lower section of the base is a result of me pausing the print to check it was working. 

 

Tom.  

Very nice.

Re the line due to pausing the print. Was the print in the vat doing that layer when you hit the pause button and if so has anyone paused their print when it was raised up between layers instead? Just wondering if waiting until the print was out the vat would avoid issues like that - I've never wanted to pause a print in case it tried to start from the beginning or something, thats the  kind of thing that usually happens to me. 

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  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

Yes, I think it was in the vat. I try not to do it as there's always the risk the print will subsequently fail or add a line as it did here, but with such a small surface area there wasn't the usual popping as it leaves the FEP which is normally the sound of success, so I wanted to be sure it had stuck to the plate! 

 

I've decided to try printing a complete unit of columns, brackets and walkway support, in for a penny.....

 

59d983fb-6ccc-4c87-9e5a-00f790446a4a.PNG.a0b9d0a1e7d74166501e289e5788cb02.PNG

 

Tom. 

Edited by TomE
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Most printers, regardless of when you actually press pause, will wait until the right point in the cycle to actually lift - ie they'll finish the current exposure, so it shouldn't matter if it was in the vat at the time or not. I wonder if the line is just because you've effectively introduced a much higher lift distance for one layer only.

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12 minutes ago, TomE said:

Yes, I think it was in the vat. I try not to do it as there's always the risk the print will subsequently fail or add a line as it did here, but with such a small surface area there wasn't the usual popping as it leaves the FEP which is normally the sound of success, so I wanted to be sure it had stuck to the plate! 

 

I've decided to try printing a complete unit of columns, brackets and walkway support, in for a penny.....

 

59d983fb-6ccc-4c87-9e5a-00f790446a4a.PNG.a0b9d0a1e7d74166501e289e5788cb02.PNG

 

Tom. 

If you posted that on the Facebook printer page you'd get everyone telling you that those 4  small brackets need at least  600 supports each.

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10 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

If you posted that on the Facebook printer page you'd get everyone telling you that those 4  small brackets need at least  600 supports each.

Lets wait and see how it prints first ;-) One must remember that these are N Gauge so the gap between supports is far less than it would be for 4mm.

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  • RMweb Gold

This was the full support:

 

bridgesup.png.7cf065fde20a66f91ac739ba2fec17ab.png

 

It could probably do without those to the ends of the brackets as they are effectively self supporting given the way it prints. 

 

Tom.  

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  • RMweb Gold
Just now, Nimbus said:

What are the Covid-like dots/particles on the bridge and brackets for?

 

The Nim.


Chitubox suggested support points, and where the software would add auto supports if you let it. 
 

Tom. 

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I’ve got an Anycubic in order, but downloaded the software in advance. 
 

im wondering, if I were doing a roof of an apex building (say a signal box) and also the wooden top of a signal box that was open at the top (removable roof) which was the best orientation to print either part. Bottom to the bed or rotate it 180 and print the flat bottom

last? 
 

andy 

 

 

53F01E13-BB69-4142-BF49-3AC9EDB78F22.jpeg

Edited by andysollis1
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Andy.

 

I think I'd probably print that with the bottom edges facing the bed, and rotated between 10-15 degrees around the Z Axis. That way all the support is on the inner faces of the roof and the detail of the slates is preserved. You'll have to make sure it is well supported to avoid distortion though, especially if it's only thin. 

 

Tom. 

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I print buildings without roofs, standing up, bottom edge flat to plate.

 

Gable ended roofs like that I also print bottom edge to the base but this time raised on small supports along the bottom edge to get the guttering up off the plate.

Hipped roofs I print as separate roof  sections upright (all on the  same plate at the same time) and assemble them afterwards, like a plastic kit of a house or something. 

 

 Not sure if thats the best way, I've not tried anything else! 

Edited by monkeysarefun
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  • RMweb Gold

More bridge bits. There’s an element of trial & error getting things the right size so still some tweaks to make. 
 

BE3CACF2-65A6-4934-8A61-3BF78B51EC14.jpeg.b5618c4e090bb233a31706bbd34f361c.jpeg

 

Tom. 

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5 hours ago, TomE said:

More bridge bits. There’s an element of trial & error getting things the right size so still some tweaks to make. 
 

BE3CACF2-65A6-4934-8A61-3BF78B51EC14.jpeg.b5618c4e090bb233a31706bbd34f361c.jpeg

 

Tom. 

I’ve not actually done N gauge for a number of years and have recently been concentrating my 3D designs in OO and O (I have done some via Shapeways in N to sell) but have to say that your bridge supports are mighty  impressive regardless of what support your have or not used! 
 

:locomotive:
 

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Thought I’d try one with the side panels in place. Didn’t turn out too bad, although ideally I need to angle the print so the suction force from the walkway is reduced. 
 

671D63FC-5473-4002-B914-D622BE49179D.jpeg.c73e20bf24283c5c154d334d2d8d2bd5.jpeg

 

Tom. 

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