Ade's 7mm layout: Malmesbury station

[Adrian Stevenson]

A bit more progress tonight on the chassis : brake hangers wires, cosmetic side frames and slide bars in place.

[Baggies1961]

Hi Ade,

Layout is looking stunning you have captured the station and area excellently.

[Adrian Stevenson]

A little more progress tonight. Trailing wheel bearings are now fitted. As this sits lower in the frame you cannot use the jig to align it with the driving wheels. But all has gone well and it sits well on the track. A little bit of running in and I think it will run nice.

 

Other bits done are the tank support brackets in between the driving wheels, brakes soldered up and the gearbox folded up.

 

The version I am building has the inside frame for the trailing wheels. I thought this would make the loco more distinct from the 58xx with the outside frame.

 

Cheer, Ade.

[bgman]

Coming along nicely Ade. 

 

When laminating the coupling rods take great care keeping them firmly together. Although I put them on my build to start with I have now obtained some replacements from Bill ( Premier Components ) which are a good alternative.

 

I also found I had to reduce the front of plastic insulation holder for the sprung pick-ups due to space between the wheel backs and the plunger to get satisfactory  movement of the wheels otherwise they were too stiff, all working fine now.

 

G

[Barnaby]

Wow excellent work Ade if I have a chassis to build YOU'RE THE MAN to ask for me.   

 

 

Best

[georgeT]

Amazing how things come together once you start, doing a great job mate...

[Regularity]

On 26/09/2019 at 21:57, Adrian Stevenson said:

The armoured electricity cable to the cabin is now going down the garden. The sparky reckons a couple of hours work in the morning should see him done. So then the house will be finished and the basic power supply installed into the cabin.

As I am approaching delivery of my Dunster House log cabin, can I backtrack to the matter of electrical installation?

 

Just a couple of questions, but how deep was the armoured cable buried (and was it in a conduit, or just put straight into the earth)?

Was this done as an extension on a spur from the main supply, or as part of a ring-main?

 

(Ok, technically that’s 3 questions, but please keep Cardinal Fang out of this, SimonD!)

 

[Adrian Stevenson]

The armoured cable not put in a conduit and was buried. Not sure how deep as the electrician did it but I think about 18 inch to two foot?

 

It is on a separated fused spur off the main fuse board.

 

Cheers, Ade.

[Barnaby]

Hello Regularity when my shed was built I was having the house rewired too so I asked if he would run a cable up the garden to my shed which he said no problem.

Armoured cable no conduit buried at 18 to 24 inched deep -- back fill with a layer of chippings then a strip CARE ELECTRICAL CABLES BELOW printed plastic tape 4 inches wide on top then filled in with remaining soil.

Separated fused spur in shed with Bill isolator switch fed from main fuse board in house. 

I still have some electrical warning signs to display above the flower bed that the cable is buried in which I have not yet got around to fitting. 

[jazz]

On 10/08/2021 at 21:16, Adrian Stevenson said:

A little more progress tonight. Trailing wheel bearings are now fitted. As this sits lower in the frame you cannot use the jig to align it with the driving wheels. But all has gone well and it sits well on the track. A little bit of running in and I think it will run nice.

 

Other bits done are the tank support brackets in between the driving wheels, brakes soldered up and the gearbox folded up.

 

The version I am building has the inside frame for the trailing wheels. I thought this would make the loco more distinct from the 58xx with the outside frame.

 

Cheer, Ade.

 

That's looking very nice Ade.  I really enjoyed building my  517 class A lovely little loco it is.

[Regularity]

I did a bit more reading. 
The recommendation is to dig a trench such that the cable lies on it, then it is covered to 100mm above the top of the cable with sharp sand, a “cable tile” is placed above (stops a spade going through) that, followed by a warning tape, followed by 500mm of backfire, then the top soil, etc.

That is the ideal and the recommendation, but it is not legally enforceable! (Mostly because it is not always possible, so it is strongly recommended.)

As long as the supply comes via an RCD and has been tested by an appropriate approved person, then it should be safe.

I seem to have hit bedrock, sadly not coal, at about 300mm, so I am going to put armoured cable inside steel conduit at that depth, because frankly I don’t have a license to use explosives.

[bgman]

On 10/08/2021 at 21:16, Adrian Stevenson said:

A little more progress tonight. Trailing wheel bearings are now fitted. As this sits lower in the frame you cannot use the jig to align it with the driving wheels. But all has gone well and it sits well on the track. A little bit of running in and I think it will run nice.

 

Other bits done are the tank support brackets in between the driving wheels, brakes soldered up and the gearbox folded up.

 

The version I am building has the inside frame for the trailing wheels. I thought this would make the loco more distinct from the 58xx with the outside frame.

 

Cheer, Ade.

 

Hi Ade,

 

I meant to ask you previously what motor / gearbox combination are you intending to use for the loco ? 

 

I intended using one that was "in stock" but have since ordered a Slaters SG38 for mine which should do the trick hopefully and with any luck will arrive in the next day or so.

 

G

[Adrian Stevenson]

Hi G, it has got a Taff Vale models motor and gearbox. Cannot recall the number now off the top of my head as I am at work having a tea break. Ken (Jazz) advised me on the combo to get.

 

Cheers, Ade.

[bgman]

Hi Ade,

 

That's the one I am swopping out, nice unit.

 

I found I had to run the motor and gears in off the loco for a while to get it nicely bedded in but worked well.

 

Looking forward to seeing the chassis running on your build.

 

G

[S.D.L.]

On 12/08/2021 at 21:17, Regularity said:

I did a bit more reading. 
The recommendation is to dig a trench such that the cable lies on it, then it is covered to 100mm above the top of the cable with sharp sand, a “cable tile” is placed above (stops a spade going through) that, followed by a warning tape, followed by 500mm of backfire, then the top soil, etc.

That is the ideal and the recommendation, but it is not legally enforceable! (Mostly because it is not always possible, so it is strongly recommended.)

As long as the supply comes via an RCD and has been tested by an appropriate approved person, then it should be safe.

I seem to have hit bedrock, sadly not coal, at about 300mm, so I am going to put armoured cable inside steel conduit at that depth, because frankly I don’t have a license to use explosives.

If you put the armoured cable in conduit their may be another factor to add for mac current capacity.

 

Steve Larner

[Regularity]

2 hours ago, S.D.L. said:

If you put the armoured cable in conduit their may be another factor to add for mac current capacity.

 

Steve Larner

Do you mean it restricts the max current capacity, or increases it?

[Simond]

I suspect it restricts it due to heating effects & cable max operating temperature, but I’d be very surprised if that were a factor in a domestic shed application.

did try to check, but couldn’t find it, need to ask Google the right question

 

 

 

[Northroader]

In any case putting armoured cable inside conduit is a belt and bracers job. Burying conduit in a trench will lead to it corroding away very quickly, it’s best for indoor use.

[PeterBB]

Hi Ade,

 

Many thanks for your good wishes.  Malmesbury is coming on a treat and hope to be able to resume following once everything is sorted.

[S.D.L.]

On 17/08/2021 at 20:38, Regularity said:

Do you mean it restricts the max current capacity, or increases it?

It can reduce current carrying capacity. there is a whole load of factors for how cable is installed, just make sure sparkey sizes it well.

 

Steve

[Adrian Stevenson]

Here is my holiday project. Sitting in the Devon sunshine with a cup of tea planning our day. It is Lez’s birthday today. So we are off out for dinner tonight.

 

Cheers, Ade.

[Regularity]

14 hours ago, S.D.L. said:

It can reduce current carrying capacity. there is a whole load of factors for how cable is installed, just make sure sparkey sizes it well.

 

Steve

I suppose I might, at really busy times, use as much as 5 amps, but most of the time, it will be less than 1A.

[Simond]

No heat?  No kettle?  Dehumidifier?  Fan?
 

LED Lights presumably?

 

I’m not a sparky, though I recall something suggesting that the spur has to be sized for the maximum you could plug in, probably 13A even if you never would. 
 

I’m sure your sparky will advise.

 

atb

Simon
 

 

[Regularity]

Yes, LED lights. Maybe a fan, and a 1kw oil filled radiator to keep the edge off the cold. My point was, even 13A will be more than enough.

[David Bell]

2 hours ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

Here is my holiday project. Sitting in the Devon sunshine with a cup of tea planning our day. It is Lez’s birthday today. So we are off out for dinner tonight.

 

Cheers, Ade.

Sounds like a perfect day!