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Ladmanlow Sidings and other C&HPR locations


Alister_G
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21 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

Size of shed needed depends on how many parts the land rover is in...

 

Sort of.

 

Back when I was a student, our next door neighbour was a MG fan (*).  In his "standard sized" garage, he had 3 MGs, one a part restored (chassis + body), plus two in bits (chassises hung off the roof, engines under the bench, not sure about the bodies).

 

* IIRC six in total, three old ones in bits, two relatively new MGBs and his wife drove a MG Metro.

 

Adrian

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1 hour ago, figworthy said:

Back when I was a student, our next door neighbour was a MG fan (*).  In his "standard sized" garage, he had 3 MGs, one a part restored (chassis + body), plus two in bits (chassises hung off the roof, engines under the bench, not sure about the bodies).

 

The trouble with Land Rovers is that all the mechanical parts are big and heavy. The body panels are normally straight, flat sections, so they can store easily, but everything else is big, bulky and heavy.

 

Al.

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1 hour ago, Alister_G said:

 

The trouble with Land Rovers is that all the mechanical parts are big and heavy. The body panels are normally straight, flat sections, so they can store easily, but everything else is big, bulky and heavy.

 

Al.

And the lubricants which seem to have a talent for leaking and leaving a puddle wherever you park. 

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The only experience I have with Land Rovers is from my army days and I have to say that none of them leaked anything from anywhere unless they were damaged in some way and they were fixed immediately so I don't recognise that behaviour in Land Rovers. In fact the only vehicle that leaked anything in my Bty was MY 432 which had a persistent oil leak on the left hand main oil seal on the steering box. It drove me mad it went through 4 steering boxes in 2 years and broke down on exercise more than I care to remember. REME could do nothing with it! In the end it was sent back to the manufacturer where it turned out to be the drive sprocket spindle housing being out of true which was stressing the oil seal. So much for QC huh.

Regards Lez.       

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11 minutes ago, Hippel said:

I've heard it described as marking their territory...

 

Paul.

I think that’s just used with old cars in general. Both my VWs ‘mark their territory’, the camper less than the bug admittedly.

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That looks better than many of the old Landrover chassis that I have seen. Projects always seem to have a new rear crossmember in red oxide, always seems to be the first job, followed by outriggers and front dumb irons.

 

Very convincing bit of model making, you certainly know your Land Rovers!

 

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On 03/07/2021 at 23:11, Tortuga said:

I think that’s just used with old cars in general. Both my VWs ‘mark their territory’, the camper less than the bug admittedly.

 

Beetles tended to leak when the little alloy washers had been omitted from around the oil strainer plate, or if it had been lowered so much that the sump kept hitting the road.

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Hi Al, a really good bit of landrover engineering that you are re creating.

And just to show others how accurate your modelling is, a full frontal nude picture of my series 3 landrover lightweight before it got it's clothes back on . All the best Adrian.

PS. And for the sake of decency one fully covered up, with a very large fig leaf on the bonnet.lightweight.JPG.bab49e447b79264c7c79f41759e53775.JPG

 

725537005_landroverlightweight.JPG.f96358d02bb3827563446eed3eacb2ab.JPG

 

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Thanks Adrian, lovely job on your lightweight, really nice. And very useful too, for me to sort out the engine and gearbox location on the model.

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

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That great model chassis reminds me of my early days with the HMG agency where part of my job was reregistering vehicles. I had a Land Rover specialist in my patch who was forever putting new chassis on crash-damaged LRs. I must have inspected and issued replacement VINs for what seems like hundreds of them.

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On 04/07/2021 at 11:17, chuffinghell said:

Fantastic Al! :good:

 

How did you bend the styrene for the chassis rails and get them so accurate?…..I’ll understand if it’s a trade secret :)

 

Not a trade secret at all, I'm pretty sure I've mentioned it before in various threads of mine.

 

I started with two lengths of square styrene rod and bent them using fingers and smooth grip pliers by eye until I was happy with the general shape, then I pinned them to a bit of wood in exactly the shape I wanted, and stuck them in the oven on 150 degrees for ten minutes.

 

Normally styrene is fairly springy, and thicker sections tend not to stay in the exact shape you form them into. However, styrene is a thermosetting plastic, so if you take it above a certain temperature, it will become much more pliable, and then when it cools again it becomes harder and more brittle, but stays in the shape you make it.

 

I did this for the pipe bends on Cawdor, if you remember:

 

wCawdor-Quarry290.jpg.9f39da1d136791254bea12e110872536.jpg

 

 

Al.

Edited by Alister_G
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On 03/07/2021 at 20:32, Alister_G said:

 

The trouble with Land Rovers is that all the mechanical parts are big and heavy. The body panels are normally straight, flat sections, so they can store easily, but everything else is big, bulky and heavy.

 

Al.

 

Oh yes.  In my youth, I stripped and rebuilt two of them (a IIA and a III), the second one got a chassis transplant as part of the process.  With hind sight, the first one should have had one as well.  This was well before the days of replacement galvo chassis and coil springs.

 

Adrian

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1 hour ago, figworthy said:

 

Oh yes.  In my youth, I stripped and rebuilt two of them (a IIA and a III), the second one got a chassis transplant as part of the process.  With hind sight, the first one should have had one as well.  This was well before the days of replacement galvo chassis and coil springs.

 

Adrian

 

Yep, I did similar, a friend and I rebuilt his Series II in the days before you could get replacement bulkheads or anything, so we fabricated replacement parts ourselves out of sheet steel, and effectively plated the whole existing chassis with new side members and tops. Paddock Motors, which are local to me, were available for engine and mechanical parts, leaf springs and so on, but they were just in a barn at Elton, no posh office or warehouse.

 

Al.

Edited by Alister_G
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This evening, I've been attempting to build a 2.25L petrol engine in 1/72 scale. Tricky, as you will see...

 

ladmanlow1662.jpg.092c7008d04e29d6cf011b8a26620e70.jpg

 

 

It's a bit fiddly...

 

 

ladmanlow1663.jpg.169a57844a729b4da6da1e04e0b6a4aa.jpg

 

 

ladmanlow1664.jpg.c11f5df1eb5fc0a57463b7238382e260.jpg

 

ladmanlow1665.jpg.85ecccfc6fc0c9fb00cd3a3d91d3e439.jpg

 

 

Having got the basic shape of the engine, I added the gearbox and transfer box as well:

 

 

ladmanlow1666.jpg.89d09f491d030a1bd6876b138381cc09.jpg

 

ladmanlow1667.jpg.8562d4363e59b7b73754fc8fbad363af.jpg

 

 

Here they are in position on the chassis:

 

 

ladmanlow1668.jpg.ac520d94c936f8b80489730fac91abd3.jpg

 

ladmanlow1669.jpg.83eddb343648cf0e6920339356eb72e5.jpg

 

 

It's not stuck in yet, as I want to paint it first.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Al.

Edited by Alister_G
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Not trying to dampen your enthusiasm but I think you have finally gone insane.  Who on earth builds a 2.25L petrol engine in 1/72 scale?!

 

Next thing you'll be telling us it actually works!

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