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Ladmanlow Sidings and other C&HPR locations


Alister_G
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  • RMweb Gold

Join the club Al. I was cutting a piece of cork using a steel strip, when the scalpel skated over the steel, and since the only thing in the way was my thumb, I made a bit of a mess.

They say that crimson lake is the colour of freshly spilled blood, so I was able to confirm that most of my locomotives were correct.

Derek

 

Well as luck would have it, I'd just put a fresh blade in, so at least it was a nice clean cut, and barely bled in the time it took to clean and dress it, so I was unable to confirm my LMS roots :)

 

At least you know your blood is adequately oxygenated... or it would have been more purple :D

 

Cheers mate, thanks for looking in.

 

Al.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Al, I first thought it was a picture of some pigs in blankets, good to see you carried on modelling regardless of your injury. All the best for Christmas and the New Year. Adrian.

 

Do you know, I wondered why I woke up this morning chewing my finger...

 

Mmmm, bacon!

 

Cheers mate, all the best,

 

Al.

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  • RMweb Gold

Well, I've completed the first 12 inches of walling.

 

I'm quite pleased with how this has turned out, I feel it represents the local Derbyshire limestone drystone walls that are all over this area.

 

Next job will be to paint it.

 

post-17302-0-57573600-1545612458_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-24165700-1545612459_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-74630600-1545612459_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-33624500-1545612460_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Al.

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  • RMweb Gold

Today, I've finally done something I should have done ages ago.

 

I've added a third (centre) set of steps to my J94s.

 

All of the J94 locos on the C&HPR had these, but most of the available models come without them, possibly because they are based on a preservation example of the Austerity class which doesn't have them.

 

To start, I cut some different width strips from a sheet of 20thou styrene:

 

post-17302-0-02761400-1545944541_thumb.jpg

 

Then I cut small sections off the two larger sized strips:

 

post-17302-0-70514000-1545944541_thumb.jpg

 

These will be the backing plate and steps.

 

Then I cut some very small sections from the narrowest strip:

 

post-17302-0-33523000-1545944542_thumb.jpg

 

These form the sides of the steps:

 

post-17302-0-83110400-1545944542_thumb.jpg

 

Then I added the steps to the back plate:

 

post-17302-0-43637000-1545944543_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-94780400-1545944543_thumb.jpg

 

Then, I did it all again:

 

post-17302-0-45628800-1545944544_thumb.jpg

 

and again...

 

post-17302-0-97433400-1545944544_thumb.jpg

 

until I had three pairs. Then I painted them:

 

post-17302-0-51436700-1545944545_thumb.jpg

 

After attaching them to the locos, I added some weathering to tone them down a bit:

 

post-17302-0-07807100-1545944546_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-55170000-1545944561_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-18886400-1545944562_thumb.jpg

 

Take a bow, fellows!

 

post-17302-0-80024200-1545944562_thumb.jpg

 

This evening, so far, I've weathered some 12 Ton Hoppers:

 

post-17302-0-33497800-1545944563_thumb.jpg

 

And I'm about to start painting the limestone wall.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Al.

Edited by Alister_G
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Today, I've finally done something I should have done ages ago.

 

I've added a third set of steps to my J94s.

 

All of the J94 locos on the C&HPR had these, but most of the available models come without them, possibly because they are based on a preservation example of the Austerity class which doesn't have them.

 

To start, I cut some different width strips from a sheet of 20thou styrene:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow130.jpg

 

Then I cut small sections off the two larger sized strips:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow131.jpg

 

These will be the backing plate and steps.

 

Then I cut some very small sections from the narrowest strip:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow132.jpg

 

These form the sides of the steps:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow133.jpg

 

Then I added the steps to the back plate:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow134.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow135.jpg

 

Then, I did it all again:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow136.jpg

 

and again...

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow137.jpg

 

until I had three pairs. Then I painted them:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow138.jpg

 

After attaching them to the locos, I added some weathering to tone them down a bit:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow139.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow140.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow141.jpg

 

Take a bow, fellows!

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow142.jpg

 

This evening, so far, I've weathered some 12 Ton Hoppers:

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow143.jpg

 

And I'm about to start painting the limestone wall.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Al.

Back on form I see, Knife, Plasticard and Glue, and suddenly you have a Lawnmower, WHOOPS, steps. :sungum:

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  • RMweb Gold

Well I've painted the wall.

 

I can't make up my mind about it, so would really welcome honest opinions.

 

post-17302-0-53291100-1545952336_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-06438900-1545952337_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-54750000-1545952337_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-08055600-1545952338_thumb.jpg

 

post-17302-0-62297600-1545952338_thumb.jpg

 

Part of the problem is it looks completely different dependng on the angle you photograph it at - or look at it, for that matter.

 

post-17302-0-25329800-1545952339_thumb.jpg

 

Hmmm...

 

Might sleep on it, and look at it in daylight.

 

Al.

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Well I've painted the wall.

 

I can't make up my mind about it, so would really welcome honest opinions.

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow144.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow145.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow146.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow147.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow148.jpg

 

Part of the problem is it looks completely different dependng on the angle you photograph it at - or look at it, for that matter.

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow149.jpg

 

Hmmm...

 

Might sleep on it, and look at it in daylight.

 

Al.

Needs more Lichen / Moss green maybe?

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Needs more Lichen / Moss green maybe?

 

Yes, that was one of the things I was considering. There are some greens in there already, but they seem to look almost blue in the photos.

 

I might give it a wash of the olive green I normally use on stone, to get this sort of look:

 

post-17302-0-36694700-1545953227_thumb.jpg

 

But I don't want to lose the limestone feel.

 

Al.

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S

 

Well I've painted the wall.

 

I can't make up my mind about it, so would really welcome honest opinions.

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow144.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow145.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow146.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow147.jpg

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow148.jpg

 

Part of the problem is it looks completely different dependng on the angle you photograph it at - or look at it, for that matter.

 

attachicon.gifladmanlow149.jpg

 

Hmmm...

 

Might sleep on it, and look at it in daylight.

 

Al.

Some of those stone blocks look BIG.

I suggest take a picture with a couple of scale figures next to the wall. Could they lift those stones?

Gordon A

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  • RMweb Gold

S

 

Some of those stone blocks look BIG.

I suggest take a picture with a couple of scale figures next to the wall. Could they lift those stones?

Gordon A

 

Hi Gordon,

 

Yes, some of them are a bit big, but you do see some walls round here with stones 2 foot long and a foot deep, and I've done a bit of real drystone walling, where we've used stones that took two of us to place.

 

I think the wall is probably over scale slightly anyway, an 00 sized bloke would struggle to see over it, but it's the same height as the Javis bits I've got, and looks right in proportion to the rail and rolling stock.

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Stu,

 

Just been looking at photos of limestone... strange where our hobby takes us sometimes!

 

Yep, agreed, particularly some of the larger stones where I've cut "facets" the different faces should be different colours.

 

I'll look at it again in the morning.

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

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Hi Gordon,

 

Yes, some of them are a bit big, but you do see some walls round here with stones 2 foot long and a foot deep, and I've done a bit of real drystone walling, where we've used stones that took two of us to place.

 

I think the wall is probably over scale slightly anyway, an 00 sized bloke would struggle to see over it, but it's the same height as the Javis bits I've got, and looks right in proportion to the rail and rolling stock.

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

 

That is a fair answer.

 

Gordon A

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Hi Al,

 

Having studied drystone walls quite a lot over the last couple of years(!), for me your top stones are too uniform in shape (look a bit like a load of books on a shelf). Try doing a length with top stones more randomly shaped, irregular angles.

 

Graham

(trying to be as constructive as possible ;) )

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks to all of you who have replied, you  have made various points which I hope to address here.
 
Firstly, I said I would take some photos of the wall in daylight, before doing anything further.
 
What daylight we had was but grudgingly given, today, but around lunchtime these were taken:
 
post-17302-0-66112600-1546014069_thumb.jpg
 
post-17302-0-38999600-1546014070_thumb.jpg
 
post-17302-0-02343900-1546014071_thumb.jpg
 
post-17302-0-53806700-1546014071_thumb.jpg
 
Which leave me still feeling dissatisfied with the results.
 
Oh, and to touch on the point Gordon A raised, I said that the wall was probably too large and out of scale. However, standing Mr Dapol Bloke next to the wall suggests that's not the case:
 
post-17302-0-04283000-1546014072_thumb.jpg
 
Although I agree some of the stone is a bit big.
 
Anyway, this afternoon I took the opportunity to photograph some real Derbyshire limestone walls:
 
post-17302-0-83067200-1546014072_thumb.jpg
 
post-17302-0-65153100-1546014073_thumb.jpg
 
post-17302-0-66981100-1546014074_thumb.jpg
 
These last three are all the same patch of wall, each taken at an increasing distance:
 
post-17302-0-39064400-1546014075_thumb.jpg
 
post-17302-0-08823400-1546014076_thumb.jpg
 
post-17302-0-41535700-1546014106_thumb.jpg
 
You can see that, although close up, there are marked differences in stone colours, as soon as you move back, you begin to lose those differences and the lighter shades, and the wall appears darker and more uniform the further away you get.
 
Looking again at the exquisitely scribed walls of Shap, (hope that's ok Graham?) you again see that he has painted them in a fairly uniform colour:
 

 
This is something I keep having to re-learn: I have in the past painted walls as they appear close-up to the eye, and it never transfers well to the model.
 
Darker and lighter shades tend to disappear and become blended into a more uniform look. Using dark greys is wrong for a model, unless the prototype is really, really dark, as is  using bright whites.
 
So, the conclusions are, go for a more uniform, darker look, and don't try to highlight stones using the actual colours observed on the prototype.post-16151-0-31183000-1524234309_thumb.j

 

I will set too this evening and tone down the highlights, and darken the whole thing, and see how that looks.

 

 

 

 

Graham, Ian, thanks for your input about the coping stones. I agree they are too regular.

 

However, whilst I have seen the "Cocks and Hens" style around here, as my photos show that's not generally the case. Quite often the posher walls use semicircular gritstone capping, which weathers to a browny-green look.

 

Many thanks again to all of you, we'll see what the repaint looks like later.

 

Al.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Al, I wondered whether a hot old soldering iron tip might take off some of the sharp edges. Might smell a bit in your den though, probably best done outside on a fine day, but you'll have to wait a bit for one of those to come along.

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