RMweb Gold Kevin Johnson Posted December 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 12, 2018 Need some advice please. With being new to soldering I’m going to be soldering to pieces of wire to my track. I know all about tinning through videos but what solder is best to use. Any advice will be great. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 60/40 multicore for electrical or electronic jobs. You can get lead free, but I find it difficult to use and in my view ..... pants Emma Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kevin Johnson Posted December 12, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 12, 2018 Thanks Emma for your reply and help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damo666 Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Need some advice please. With being new to soldering I’m going to be soldering to pieces of wire to my track. I know all about tinning through videos but what solder is best to use. Any advice will be great. I only spotted this at the weekend. Page 11 of this will give you the reasons as to why certain solders are more suitable than others. (I always like to know why instead of just been given a 'get this one' answer). You might find page 8 also relevant. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted December 12, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 12, 2018 (edited) I only spotted this at the weekend. Page 11 of this will give you the reasons as to why certain solders are more suitable than others. (I always like to know why instead of just been given a 'get this one' answer). You might find page 8 also relevant. This site says that 60:40 solder works well when new (their underline). I have been using the same reel for over 40 years and it still makes perfect joints. Edited December 12, 2018 by dhjgreen 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted December 12, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 12, 2018 This site says that 60:40 solder works well when new (their underline). I have been using the same reel for over 40 years and it still makes perfect joints. I suspect it depends on the condition its kept in, if its just chucked in the bottom of a toolbox, then don't expect optimum life! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 I suspect it depends on the condition its kept in, if its just chucked in the bottom of a toolbox, then don't expect optimum life! It doesn't go off. Cleanliness of the iron tip and work pieces and soldering technique is far more critical. Remember that DCC Concepts are trying to sell you their own solder. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted December 13, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 13, 2018 It doesn't go off. Cleanliness of the iron tip and work pieces and soldering technique is far more critical. Remember that DCC Concepts are trying to sell you their own solder. Yes true, but I suspect that Richard has a background in military related hardware, where solder would routinely be disposed of, once it meet a certain age. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Need some advice please. With being new to soldering I’m going to be soldering to pieces of wire to my track. I know all about tinning through videos but what solder is best to use. Any advice will be great. Firstly I would suggest you buy some liquid flux, wire may work well with resin cored solder but I have found its easier to tin the rail and wire first, then join both together I use some (very) old solder wire for most jobs, lead free seems not to flow as easily as solder with lead in, decent flux is a real aid as is keeping the tip of the soldering iron nice and clean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 I want to say you shouldn't need extra flux! But I realise it works for some people. Just take care what you use and whether it needs cleaning, otherwise you risk corrosion in time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Dicky Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 I have a reel of solder which I cannot remember where I acquired it but it is very badly oxidised and is difficult to solder with mainly I think because the cored flux is insufficient to keep the oxides suspended. I keep meaning to try additional flux to see if it improves soldering but I am still working through another reel first. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted December 13, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 13, 2018 I have a reel of solder which I cannot remember where I acquired it but it is very badly oxidised and is difficult to solder with mainly I think because the cored flux is insufficient to keep the oxides suspended. I keep meaning to try additional flux to see if it improves soldering but I am still working through another reel first. Richard Yes, that would be my suspicion. It doesn't last forever. Mind you if might have been faulty in the first place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Acid cored solder tends to suffer from the flux decaying with time, especially in damp conditions. Rosin cored solder will probably be OK for decades. If starting out you might as well learn how to use 4% silver lead free solder. It just requires a higher temperature and a therefore a higher powered iron than leaded solder, but is just as easy to do when you know how. There is a lot of lead free solder offered that does not have any silver in it - you need to avoid it as it is very difficult to use. If you are soldering anything that is not perfectly clean then using acid cored solder or fluxing with phosphoric acid flux (Bakers Fluid or similar) is recommended - but you must clean the flux off afterwards very thoroughly to avoid corrosion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 55020 Posted December 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 14, 2018 Quick question - how do you clean flux off? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharris Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 I'd stay away from acid cored solder for any electrical work- it will be impossible to clean the flux off components, stick to a rosin cored one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 I have rosin cored solder from when I started my apprenticeship in the early '60s (I stocked up). Some of it has a terrible appearance (**), but I have NO problems using it. If for instance, you are soldering a wire to a nickel-silver rail, give the rail a quick brush with a fibre brush, and the copper wire should also be clean (stripping the insulation off is usually enough, the wire should be shiny). Cleanliness is ESSENTIAL for a good joint. (**) The solder has oxidised, which brings up another point. Using solder (ie tinning a surface) for an electrical contact point is a definite NO as the solder will oxidise and therefore give a poor contact. No criticism of the product intended, but the "switches" on SEEP point motors use this design, and in time poor electrical contact ensues. That is why I never use them, and wire in a proper microswitch instead. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 I'd stay away from acid cored solder for any electrical work- it will be impossible to clean the flux off components, stick to a rosin cored one. You can buy flux which is designed for electrical work (Carrs orange) and needs no cleaning Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 If starting out you might as well learn how to use 4% silver lead free solder. It just requires a higher temperature and a therefore a higher powered iron than leaded solder, but is just as easy to do when you know how. At last, I am no longer alone I use nothing else for electrical work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted December 18, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 18, 2018 I'd stay away from acid cored solder for any electrical work- it will be impossible to clean the flux off components, stick to a rosin cored one. Absolutely, I've seen some 'D' connectors which had been soldered to using acid based flux and the connector pins were actually dissolving after a year or so. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Try reading this about Tin Whiskers growing on lead-free solder: http://www.sigcon.com/Pubs/news/10_01.htm Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Try reading this about Tin Whiskers growing on lead-free solder: http://www.sigcon.com/Pubs/news/10_01.htm Indeed, look at the age and the opening paragraph "I am no expert...". I have a lot of respect for the author (Dr Howard Johnson) in his own field of high speed circuit design. Then use google and read, for example, https://www.indium.com/blog/pb-free-solders-are-not-the-cause-of-tin-whiskers.php Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Lead free solder is not allowed in aerospace applications because of the whisker problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 Lead free solder is not allowed in aerospace applications because of the whisker problem. It's not the solder that is the problem, it is pure tin plating on components and PCBs. I don't think it's "not allowed", more that lead is still allowed in certain applications. Things are changing, and will continue to change, just google "lead free solder aerospace". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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