Gibbo675 Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 Hi Folks, The caboose is coming along quite well although I do need to find a blistered window for the side windows before the roof is fitted. The handrails are a lot stronger than they look, they were made up on a flat surface and left weighted down until the glue had cured and then stuck into position. I'm surprised that no one has a 3d print available of this particular subject. That said if there is one I don't know of one. Gibbo. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 Hi Folks, Work upon the bogies has taken this afternoon's attention. The first bogie to be dealt with was the unpowered bogie for No.1 as it is different to the the bogies of the other three locomotives. The sides were marked out, cut and filled to shape and then I worked out how I might assemble the bogies to suit both powered and unpowered form. For the trailing bogies there are three cross stretchers, two end ones at 22.5mm X 4mm from .060" plasticard and one central one that forms the bolster at 21mm x 13mm also .060". The reason for the differing lengths is that the central one attaches to the .030" reinforcing strips and the end ones attach directly to the inner faces of the bogie sides. When the assembly is cured the ends are dressed with a file to ensure square and then end plates are attached from .020" plasticard. Reliefs were filled into the end cross stretchers for otherwise they would foul the flanges of the the wheels which are currently 10.5mm Hornby Freightliner wheels, such reliefs will also be necessary for the powered bogies. Work yet to do is to fit the sand boxes to the front ends of all of the bogies and the spring detail the those of No.1. The side frames for the motor bogie will be of the same construction except that the bolster will be dispensed with and instead a fixing socket that will attach to the motor bogie bracket will be fitted. No.1 upon its unpowered bogies and a its Tenshodo unit also shewing the unpowered bogies for No.s 2, 3 & 4 along with the now varnished N gauge loco. Gibbo. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2019 Looking great Gibbo. Perhaps for the blister windows something like the little plastic packets of paracetamol would work? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 Looking great Gibbo. Perhaps for the blister windows something like the little plastic packets of paracetamol would work? Hi Corbs, The chap that lives next door to my parents is big into model aircraft, he might have something suitable. I am taking a trip there this weekend to deliver the tamper to its new depot allocation and to see them anyway, so I shall take my caboose with me to see if he has anything suitable. Gibbo. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 (edited) Hi Folks, No real work again today and too cold to play motorbikes so lots of modelling instead. I have been busy with the bogies, first was to cut out and fit the spring detail to the bogies of No. 1 and then I set about making all of the cross stretchers for the rest of the bogies. All of the unpowered bogies are now complete leaving only two of the unpowered bogies to build up. The unpowered bogies now have some Alan Gibson wheel sets that better match the flange profiles of the Tenshodo drive units, I pinched these from a Freightliner FGA which is now grounded. The new wheel sets imply run in the bogie frames as they would have done when they were crane bogies. In the case of the powered bogies a bit of design was required, after looking at the supplied brackets I chose the one I thought most suitable and fitted it to the bogie. Before doing so I first measured the size of the projection of the bracket, it was found to be 6mm X 6mm X .75mm and 20mm over the total width of the bracket. This was a useful size for the dimension between the inner faces of the bogie reinforcing strips is 21.5mm. I then set about manufacturing some sockets that fitted over the bracket projections these were from two pieces of 14mm X 6mm X.030" plasticard sandwiching two pieces of 6mm X 4mm X .030" plasticard. These were found to be quite a tight fit upon the brackets so I relieved the brackets with a file so that they became a close sliding fit. I was careful to ensure that the sockets were squarely made so that they would sit in the correct alignment when upon the brackets. I added a slim fillet to the underside of the reinforcing strip on the inner faces of the bogie so that the engaged interface would be maximised for strength and then after a dry run to check clearances I applied glue to the inner faces of the bogies and positioned them over the Tenshodo unit with the fabricated sockets placed upon the brackets. The unpowered bogies were placed upon a piece of track and the distance from the work bench top to the underside of the horn ties was measured, this was found to be 7mm. The powered bogies were placed upon the piece of track centred upon the axles and the under keeps were pushed down to 7mm spacers to set the running height. So far the powered bogies for No. 1 and No. 2 have been built this way, I shall build up the last two powered bogies for No. 3 and No. 4 using the same pair of Tenshodo units so that when I get another pair they will slot straight into place. Tenshodo unit shewing fabricated sockets Bogie frame of No.2 shewing fillet piece to allow full engagement of the sockets. Bogie Frames of No.1 Shewing the socket attachments to the Tenshodo unit and the unpowered bogie. No. 1 and No. 2 upon their bogies. As may be seen the bogies of No. 1 have an inverted laminate spring connected to the bogie frame via flexible links to an equalising beam. The bogies of No. 2 have independent suspension of a single laminate spring over the tops of the axle box again connected via flexible links. Gibbo. Edit: Additional photograph of No 1's bogies. Edited January 24, 2019 by Gibbo675 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 Hi Folks, This is my latest rebuild of an AC Electric locomotive that was stated about thirty years ago. It is another class 81 except that this one will be in electric blue with white cab roofs, blue buffer beams and full yellow ends. I haven't decided upon a number but when I do it will dictate whether or not it will receive crests or arrows upon its body side. This locomotive will not have the additional air tanks upon the roof although it will only have the one pantograph at No. 2 end as are the refurbished locomotives. The underframe detail is as I made it all that time ago although it will be repainted along with the rest of it Gibbo. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Hi Folks, Today I have manufactured the fixing brackets for the bogies of No.1 and No.2. By sheer chance the underside of the body is at just about the right height that the when the supplied mounting bracket is in contact with it the buffer height is just about correct. I say just about because No.1 required a .010" shim to lift it slightly but for some reason that I am unable to measure No.2 doesn't need one. To allow the supplied bracket to fit up to the underside of the body I drilled a hole just under size of the screw head of that fastens the bracket I then measured the hole to check centre with my very-near calipers and filed to finish so that the head of the screw provides the location of the bogie and to ensure central location. The next job was to form a mounting block form two pieces of .080" plasticard to secure the supplied bracket. The block was offered into place in the crook of the bend of the bracket, marked up and a hole drilled. Once a screw was fitted to locate the bracket to the mounting block glue was applied to the mounting block and then the head of the bogie screw was located into the underside of the body. The bracket and the mounting block were then positioned upon the centre line and squared up. Once cured the hole in the mounting block was drilled through and the screw wound home to secure the bogie. The pivot centre for the unpowered bogie was then drilled 1.5mm on the centre line, 26mm back from the buffer beam and then the bolster of the bogie was drilled using the same size drill. I measured over the axles and split the difference to find the centre of the bogie. I then temporarily mounted the bogie using the drill bit as a pivot pin checking for centrality, No. 1 was about .5mm out of centre so I then drilled both holes out to 2.5mm and gently filled both so the bogie would centralise. The hole in the body was filed so that the securing screw wound in easily and the hole in the bogie was drilled clear of the screw and slightly countersunk to accept the screw head. The packing plate on top of the bolster had the leadng and trailing edges of its upper surface relived so that it would rock more easily about the pivot screw. As the inner ends of the bogies of No.2 are to the full depth of the bogie unlike those of No.1 it was fond necessary to relive the vertical plate of the cross stretcher to clear the mounting block and bracket. Shewing the underside of No.1 assembled and No.2 shewing the pivot location holes and mounting block. Gibbo. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted January 26, 2019 Author Share Posted January 26, 2019 Hi Folks, The pantograph for the N gauge Kearsley Locomotive arrived this morning, a quick measure up, the drilling of two location holes and a dab of cyanoacrylate glue and it was fitted. The locomotive may in future be seen on either Nine Mills or Burshaw. Gibbo. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 (edited) Hi Folks, The Y6 has been repainted into Early BR bauxite brown instead of the standard BR bauxite which it was painted in the previous posts. It has also had its transfers applied, it has been numbered 68083 for that is the only one of the class to carry a BR number. I'm not sure that the locomotive even carried British Railways on its sides but I think it looks the part, so there it is. Gibbo. Edit: Forgot to mention the repaint. Edited January 28, 2019 by Gibbo675 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Hi Folks, Here is the Y6 with cab windows fitted, the windows are made form .030" transparent sheet cut to size, masked off and then the perimeter and edges painted to match the body sides. When the paint was dry I glued them in place with carefully applied PVA. Un fortunately the photography is worse than usual ! Gibbo. 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 1, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 1, 2019 Looks superb Gibbo, you'd never guess the humble Hornby running gear hiding away underneath! If you are having issues with dust, I keep a large, very soft paint brush handy to go over a model just before taking a pic, it helps a lot Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 1 minute ago, Corbs said: Looks superb Gibbo, you'd never guess the humble Hornby running gear hiding away underneath! If you are having issues with dust, I keep a large, very soft paint brush handy to go over a model just before taking a pic, it helps a lot Hi Corbs, Mostly bad lighting, it looks fine to my eye but then the camera sees things differently ! Gibbo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 Hi Folks, The Prestwin wagons have now had their transfers applied and a coat of matt varnish applied. Now that the tanks are varnished the frames look a bit too shiny so I think that I shall give them another coat just to be sure. In the photograph opposite sides of the early diagram Prestwins are shewn and one of the late diagram Dapol model for comparison. Gibbo. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 Hi Folks, Work on AC electric locomotives has been continuing with a class 81 and an 84 on the bench. The class 81 is almost finished painted and has a number allocated, it is to be E3013 and will carry a crest. The livery is a late 1960's early 1970's livery just before the locomotives started to be painted BR blue, it is electric blue with full yellow ends and blue buffer beams. The class 84 is another one of the seven AC electrics that I started about thirty years ago, there are five more Dapol produced Trix 81 bodies to go at also. Since getting out of its box it has had its bogies removed and as I was not happy with the splice in the body I cut it in two and rejoined it, this time getting it straight ! The other job was to re-profile the body side windows as I was not happy with those either, I think I had worked form photographs in the first instance but I have since gained two books with drawings of the type which has made things a bit easier. I also cut the apertures for the body side grills originally I had made scribed overlays but that was thirty years ago. The original Trix roof profile was cut out completely allowing the the body sides to be reduced by 1.5mm and a new roof section from .040" plasticard substituted. This makes the cut back behind the cab look deeper and reduces the depth of the valences along the tops of the body sides and is more accurate to the drawing. A minor detail that has been added for the first time that was missing from the first attempt was the strip across the top of the cab roofs which for whatever reason I did not fit originally. The brackets that form the suspension pillars were made from .060" plasticard glued into place with a square of .040" glued to the outer surfaces of the .060" pieces and also locating into notches cut into the lower body side. once the whole had cured I carved the basic shape and then filed to finish. the inner faces are relieved to allow clearance for the bogies and the outer faces are tapered inward slightly. The cut marks and filled patches have been filled with Milliput and when cured will be sanded flat. The locomotive will be numbered 84 009 and will be finished in BR blue as a newly out-shopped locomotive in reconditioned form with air tanks on the roof. Gibbo. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 Hi Folks, Today's work has involved the class 84, I have been fitting the window frames and traction motor air intake grills. After checking for square and alignment of the apertures I cut a 2mm wide strip of .010" plasticard that was formed around a rectangle of plasticard that II had cut to fit neatly into the apertures using tweezers. the ends were left long so that the strip could be glued into place on three side and secured, when reasonably set I then trimmed back the ends y cutting through the ends with a scalpel blade and then ran a drop of glue under the loose ends manipulating into place with the tweezers. The amount by which the strip is proud of the body side was checked and special attention was made in seating the corners to allow for an even curve. The grills were made by cutting a strip of .030" plasticard slightly wider than needed and about three times longer than one of the grills, placing it along the back of a file and scribing with a junior hacksaw blade using the frame of the saw as a guide. these were then cut and filed to be a press fit into the frames of the apertures before setting into position with glue. The Milliput filler has been filed and sanded smooth and is actually much better than it looks. Gibbo. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 Hi Folks, I have now first coat painted, glazed and fixed the roof to the Freightliner caboose. The whole of the caboose including the then loose roof was first painted in rail grey this allowed me to then fix the glazing without having to mask off the windows. The windows in the ends of the caboose are simply transparent glazing sheet, however, the domed windows in the sides are made form a type of jewellery stone called a cabochon. Cabochons are available form eBay for a very reasonable price, I used some 8mm diameter clear ones which were press fitted into the apertures of the windows with a backing of transparent glazing sheet. The flat inside face of the cabochons had a dab of Anita's Clear and Gloss embossing fluid which was then used to fix in the backing of glazing sheet. Once the windows were judged to be secure I glued the roof on and once cure it was trimmed back flush, filed and sanded to give a slight radii along the edges. the paint was then touched up avoiding the windows. Of all the models I have ever glazed it has by far the best prismatic effect of any of them ! Gibbo. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Hi Folks, The Freightliner Caboose is now complete with the exception of its number. The numbers were rendered in red and as I don't have any suitable transfers numbering will be for another day. The red stripe is Railmatch buffer beam red which is a very good match for the red Hornby use on their old style Freightliner boxes. The air pipes that are attached to the handrails are connected to the air pipes of the FGA that carries the caboose so that the guard could observe the air brake train pipe and main reservoir pressures and also apply the brake via a setter within the caboose. When the black paint is dry I shall dab some red and yellow on the ends of the pipes. Gibbo. 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 Genius use of the jewellery on the window 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 11 hours ago, Corbs said: Genius use of the jewellery on the window Cheers Corbs, The idea was not mine, it came form the next door neighbour of my parents so thanks to him ! I have to say that the glazing works very well and I'm really pleased with it especially as I didn't have a solution to the problem at the start of the project. Gibbo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2019 Necessity is the mother of invention as they say... Gibbo, I can't find the photos of your BR Standard Mallet, but I could have sworn they were in this thread? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 Cartic-4 Hi Folks, This is a new entry upon this thread but it has one of its own that I started last year. The main reason for not working upon the Cartic-4 project is that this particular thread has taken precedence somewhat and also that the EMA Plastic Weld that i am using to construct my kit has such awful fumes that i use it outside and the weather has been quite rough in the last three months. Continuing on from then; Today I have finally finished off the building of the last of the laser cut parts to complete the set and while doing so writing out a set of instructions should anyone wish to build one of their own once I have completed the kit as a whole. Writing the instructions was quite tricky because not only do I have be be concise, it all has to make sense. The difficulty in doing this is that I know what I am doing and so I don't really need to explain the process to myself, if that makes sense. This is also the first time that the whole rake has been mounted upon a full set of Tom's (TangoOscarMike) printed bogies. He has developed some air tanks and brake cylinders but I can't remember if I am to get them from Shapeways or if he is sending them to me once he has seen them for himself. Either way it will become apparent in time. The kit as it stands has gone together really well although it needs to have some slight remedial works carried out for certain details that would be better in an altered form. The drawings will be amended shortly. I shall also start on the drawings for the gratings that form the decking for the cars to run upon and also the brake hand-wheels, handrails, ladders and loading flaps. The next step is to fill, file and sand the wagons and fit the couplings and buffers, this process will likely be started over the weekend. Full Rake. Side view of outer wagon. Side view of inner wagon. General view form above. 85 024 on a class 3 working ! Gibbo. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 ICI Bulk Salt Presflo Tanks Hi Folks, While paint is drying on various other jobs I have decide to start yet another project. I had such a good time last year building 24 Dapol Presflo kits I thought I might do the ICI Bulk Salt version because I had a Hornby Dublo one many years ago. Being young and daft I repainted it into BR Bauxite, I still have it but why did I repaint it ??? To make amends to my self I ordered some transfers from CCT which I have had for just a few weeks and now I have the kits to apply them to once I sort out the best shade of blue with a tinge of green to actually paint them in. I built up the kit as per usual and once the hopper part of the tank was cured well enough for firm handling I cut the bottom off it so that I can rebuild the bottom section as the twin hopper style that the tanks were. The representation of the discharge pressure gauge was carved off from the body and two pieces of .020" plasticard were attached to form instruction boards and another was attached just above the sole bar. To fit this one into place one of the body side ribs had to be relieved to allow the plate to be sited n the vertical plane. As the tanks had two compartments within the hopper there are two discharge valve hand wheels and two discharge top air pipes. The hand wheels were from a Cambrian Kits assorted hand wheel sprue and the top air pies is .040" brass wire, it would be better if it was .030" but it is what I had despite running out for the last two tanks. The wires have not yet been secured which is why they look misaligned in the photographs. Three Hoppers shewing the bottom cut off with the forth as a juxtaposition. Progress so far with two of eight pipes missing due to under supply of materials. Gibbo. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Latest Modelling Hat If you were in any doubt............. ........you now know I'm crackers. Gibbo. 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Hi Folks, I have painted the Cartic-4 set and it has come out quite well although there was slight bleeding under the masking of the lower deck. The reason for this is that it is quite tricky to get even my little finger in to press it down, i even used the end of a paint brush to try to make sure that the masking tape was firmly settled. There is a little touching up here and there and also repairs to the areas of failed masking but nothing much considering. The colours used are BR Blue for the sides and Diesel Roof Grey for the inner faces of the sides and the deck surfaces. Diesel Roof Grey looks good for the deck colour but from what I can see in photographs the inner faces of the sides ought to be BR Rail Grey. I might repaint the inner faces of the sides but I think it might look too bright and will then require toning down by weathering, in which case it may be easier to leave it. I think that I should perhaps have fitted the buffers before painting though! General view. Side view showing the articulation brackets that requires painting black. Gibbo. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Hi Folks, I have done a little mote upon the ICI Presflos for I found some copper wire that was only .003" under the diameter of the brass wire. As it is softer than the brass wire it will require more careful handling but it allowed me to fit the discharge top air pipes. I also gave them a once over with the remnants of a jar of BR Rail Blue that was starting to go off so I used it up quick so as to save my new jar for top coats, hence the reason the holes for mounting the hoarding board supplied with the kit are not yet filled. I'm still mot overly sure of the finished shade and I might mix some dark green into the Rail Blue. Gibbo. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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