Bermuda Railway

[ianmianmianm]

The trouble with stronger material, is that it has to be printed thicker.In effect what used to be called WSF. I stopped adjusting designs for that when others started saying they preferred the smoother(but thinner) material. I never use spray paint, so never need to mask. Wijth the WSF I always put some cheap liquid superglue on small delicate parts9eg buffers), but not sure what would strengthen the FUD type plastic.

 

So.. tried the glue option and obviously will finalise with varnish once painted. Even when not spraying, managed to lose a segment of one of the railings just with a single brushstroke of black.

 

Also lost the cowcatcher off a motor car and so am down to one motor, trailer, and Pullman in one piece, with the retrieved cowcatcher transplanted back on to the motor van.

 

That leaves me 2 unusable vehicles I am using for painting technique tests.

 

Simon - before I re-order, what about any of the metal materials such as brass?

 

Thx

Edited January 27, 2019 by ianmianmianm

[rue_d_etropal]

allthe metal options require it to be thicker.What I will look at is thickening the railings as that would be needed for any other material. I am a bit surprised that Shapeways managed to get it pakaged without damage, but then the plastic does continue to cure, so might be more flexible at first. 

[rue_d_etropal]

OK,I have beefed up the balcony railings. They were within the guidelines SW set, but hopefully a litle bit thicker and they should be stronger. Rod thickness is something the SW engineers check. Maybe they need to consider changing their guidelines a bit.

I also beefed up the pilots(cowcatchers), and the support to the chassis.

 

Which SW factory did the printing? Given how close Bermuda is to USA,it would seem odd if they were still done in Netherlands.

 

As I said above all the other materials require walls to be thicker, and I don't think that would help with the railings.

 

All changes are now live.

 

Ian, just noticed you have re-ordered. I am not sure if they will use the modifed designs, as email came through before I did updates.If you want modified versions, might be wise to cancel and reorder.

Edited January 28, 2019 by rue_d_etropal

[ianmianmianm]

OK,I have beefed up the balcony railings. They were within the guidelines SW set, but hopefully a litle bit thicker and they should be stronger. Rod thickness is something the SW engineers check. Maybe they need to consider changing their guidelines a bit.

I also beefed up the pilots(cowcatchers), and the support to the chassis.

 

Which SW factory did the printing? Given how close Bermuda is to USA,it would seem odd if they were still done in Netherlands.

 

As I said above all the other materials require walls to be thicker, and I don't think that would help with the railings.

 

All changes are now live.

 

Ian, just noticed you have re-ordered. I am not sure if they will use the modifed designs, as email came through before I did updates.If you want modified versions, might be wise to cancel and reorder.

Thank you. Decided to try again with the old sort - too late to cancel as they moved quickly. Will see how these go and order again if needed. Mine come from the Netherlands as we are considered the UK here!

[rue_d_etropal]

OK Ian. I thought it probably from Netherlands, as I think the USA factories only supply home market.

Normally it takes a few hours to do initial pre-processing, especially on a Sunday evening, but being small models they do get processed quicker. It might be worth while puting them to one side when they arrive to finish curing.I wonder if there is anything that can be lightly painted on to strengthen the thin plastic or does it just require a bit more UV.

[ianmianmianm]

Will try this - they take 10 days to get here, but I must admit I went and collected them on my day off and set straight to it! This time round I will try and do so on the morning of a working day...... so I then don't have time to rush in where angels fear to tread. Also the flying boat model is imminently due to arrive and the sea (the box lid - the two black strips on either side are Velcro) is ready to receive that, so that should help take the edge off my creative impulsiveness!

We had 16 days of winter in Bermuda when temperatures plummeted to an icy 12 degrees Celsius, and even 4 minutes of hail stones last week which made the newspaper headlines. Now we are back to shirt sleeve order so I think there may be some UV come next week!

 

[rue_d_etropal]

looking great. Almost thought it was in a box file, until I checked back to previous photos.It would have worked very well.

[ianmianmianm]

This came free with some Christmas presents in and I think I can scrounge more. A decent boxfile will set you back 25 US dollars at Bermuda prices thanks to a taxation system based on import duty and a low stock level high frequency shipping supply chain.  The fold down front is in your honour Simon - but it detaches completely with Velcro on either side which being black, is easily ignored.

 

 

 

[rue_d_etropal]

Actually I have progressed from box files to lever arch files(foolscap size) which are a lot cheaper(I have found a supplier in Keighley who sells 10 for about £13). They are not quite as long but are wider. Type of thing you might find in an office clearout if you are lucky.

[mcbearuk]

Can I ask a rather idiotic question?  

 

Did the passenger motor cars have a driving cab at the balcony end, so that they could be driven 'in reverse'?  I notice that there is a window in the end bulkhead on one side of the entry door, early US Elevated and Subway motor cars had a cab in this position and it would be logical to think that the Bermuda cars were laid out in the same way.  Anyone have some knowledge of this?

 

[PhilJ W]

32 minutes ago, mcbearuk said:

Can I ask a rather idiotic question?  

 

Did the passenger motor cars have a driving cab at the balcony end, so that they could be driven 'in reverse'?  I notice that there is a window in the end bulkhead on one side of the entry door, early US Elevated and Subway motor cars had a cab in this position and it would be logical to think that the Bermuda cars were laid out in the same way.  Anyone have some knowledge of this?

 

Yes they did, in one of the photographs you can just make out the driver behind the window you mentioned.

[rue_d_etropal]

It is on the original Drewry plans, and when actually built, the side windows were simpler. Obviously no-one could stand on the balcony when train running in that direction.

[mcbearuk]

Thank  you gentlemen.  Rue d etropal you mention that there are 'original Drewry plans'; are these available publicly?

 

[rue_d_etropal]

Quote

 Rue d etropal you mention that there are 'original Drewry plans'; are these available publicly?

Not publicly, a copy of a very worn out drawing was sent to me. There are a few inconsistencies to the original specification document, and I am not 100% certain on them.  I may be able to create my own drawing.

[Professor-P]

I live in New England.  Boston.  My wife and I have spent many happy weeks vacationing in Bermuda.  The railway has fascinated me from the very first vacation.  After an hiatus of more than two three decades I'm getting back into model railroading again.

 

I was thrilled when I found the shape ways models you designed.  I've powered the motorized coach with a tomytec component designed for japanese trolleys.  It took a bit to fit it into the body.

 I have a circular test track and I'm able to achieve a scale 20 mph without too many snags.  I'm anxious to be able to run at a a speed no more than the 30 mph limit that was set for the motorized rolling stock.  

 

I've made it through painting.  Not that happy with the translucent color I applied to the window material.  My next step will be designing and ordering decals for the signage and pin striping.  

 

My initial layout design is an adaptation of the landscape in Paget and Warwick.  I'll start that when I finish with the decals.  N scale will be working very nicely for me  

[ianmianmianm]

My version has been stagnating for a while pending finding a solution to the motor problem. The Motor cars are less of an issue but finding a suitable wheelbase which allow the bogie to sit behind the steps and still turn has been difficult and a lot of chassis are too fat or tall.

 

Out of adversity comes triumph, I ordered 2 of these for the DLR on my London layout but which come up too short for those units. They are centrally articulated but the far bogie is merely a trailer with no pickup duties. This is a narrow little tyke, and like all Japanese tram bogies, runs like a dream through my 1st radius Kato points.

Tomytec TM-TR03 

 

I will crack on with my micro now! 

[PhilJ W]

Tomytec produce some motorised chassis that might do the trick. Here in the UK they are stocked by Plus Daughters.

[brianusa]

Good to see this topic back again!

     Brian.

[rue_d_etropal]

nice to se photos of the models I designed. I really need to start on the 2 railcars the Americans brought in.

[ianmianmianm]

On 27/12/2019 at 18:08, rue_d_etropal said:

nice to se photos of the models I designed. I really need to start on the 2 railcars the Americans brought in.

 

Yeah it's good that innit! I have a particular piece of professional kit which I invented which is used globally in the non-profit sector I work in, I get to see photos of it being used all the time. 

 

The layout would not exist if it were not for your work Simon, and I am sure there are a few others out there finally building their dream layouts with prototypes they've been able to print.

 

I decided to build it into one of the Really Useful boxes, but with my own baseboards, as I didn't need the the extra space below the layout to allow for point motors. I managed to take apart the grocery box the module was built in before, without damaging the work already done, and used the sides and back to make an extension for a station. I'm using Kato track (for all manner of reasons, not least practicality but also it is flat-bottom rail protypically) and I also built it onto its side in order to accommodate decent height palm trees - but it's  a nod to your boxfile trick at the same time.  At the moment I am messing around with some of the prints that have broken rails or steps etc, but I have more in the wings to be done, these being the strengthened versions.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 29, 2019 by ianmianmianm

[ianmianmianm]

10 hours ago, PhilJ W said:

Tomytec produce some motorised chassis that might do the trick. Here in the UK they are stocked by Plus Daughters.

Tried a few of these, but the main problem is they are too chunky, and also don't pivot because not enough room behind the steps. The motor cars had a very noticeable feature which was that the steps sat in front of the mid-point of one bogie, with the wheels on either side. 

 

The other issue is, being in Bermuda, anything Tomix comes by post and we pay around 25% - 30% import and wharfage as well as around 10-20 dollars to ship. I have a box full of all manner of Kato and Tomix bogies, but for the first time I've managed to find a real alternative use for one. 

 

IM

 

[ianmianmianm]

I've deleted two images from the earlier post due to my dying shame at the backscene. I've re-done the backscene on some foamboard, using the same panoramic stock photo, with cropping, mirroring and the use of transparent-background trees overlaid. Found some lovely Palmetto, Cedar and Hibiscus bushes. Not sure about the left side with the cruise ship - I really like this shot but it needs more foreground view-blocks. 

[rue_d_etropal]

looking good Ian. If you had not originally asked I would never have known about the railway, and that the stock was built just dow the road from me now. If it gets more people interested maybe the units which still exist could be restored.

The cruise ship. I can see what you are trying to do. I would move it further back in image so that it is partly hidden by the greenery. possibly addng a structure/building(flag pole?) to hide the join.

I agree what you say about Tomytec chassis. I knew big problem would be position of bogie under steps. I think an extra problem for some might be that the wheels were coupled , I think, originally, like the motor vans.

thanks for the new orders.

[ianmianmianm]

2 hours ago, rue_d_etropal said:

looking good Ian. If you had not originally asked I would never have known about the railway, and that the stock was built just dow the road from me now. If it gets more people interested maybe the units which still exist could be restored.

The cruise ship. I can see what you are trying to do. I would move it further back in image so that it is partly hidden by the greenery. possibly addng a structure/building(flag pole?) to hide the join.

I agree what you say about Tomytec chassis. I knew big problem would be position of bogie under steps. I think an extra problem for some might be that the wheels were coupled , I think, originally, like the motor vans.

thanks for the new orders.

 

Just putting this here for others' reference purposes.

 

- The motor vans were of 2 types, nos 30 and 31 were coupled wheels on only one bogie, so could use the little 0-4-0 chassis listed way up above in the thread (my next task when the passenger stock is done). Nos 100 and 101 were the same design but both bogies were coupled as they were more powerful units.

The motor cars were also fitted with coupled bogies, on the bogie behind the steps believe it or not, but I (and all sensible people) am omitting the smaller coupling rods.

 

- Chassis wise, the little tram chassis I ended up using (TM TR03) have the edge because they taper toward the end of the bogie frame due to the shape of the tram (although it's noticeably harder in your beefed up version). They still need a tiny bit of trimming to fit behind the steps but crucially the bogie still pivots. The chassis is very similar to TM- TR01 which I also have a couple of spare, but that has a dead square frame. I need to have a close look at some of the other articulated chassis to see if they will do the trick.

 

- On the luggage and freight vans, one option may be to power the trailer and use something dummy under the motor van, keeping the two permanently coupled as a running pair.

I still have a couple of survivors from the old style which haven't broken up yet, although I am cannibalising steps and cowcatchers like crazy.

 

- Regarding the cruise ship - I am actually tempted to ditch that, make a hole in the left hand end and run the track through, and run it as a roundy roundy.

 

- The colour change from Primrose to Crimson Lake began in 1936 but took a couple of years. If you can't get the right Primrose yellow (and no-one is quite sure what is right) then there are a couple of lighter Canary Yellows which I think look right when applied over white primer. 

 

- Finally - John (Professor P) did complete and finish his decals, they are available from the supplier in Canada which he uses , with his artwork given by permission. If anyone wants details please PM me as I am not sure on what basis he is permitting the artwork to be used (may be case by case). I'm very impressed by them so much so that I decided to opt for a more yellow fleet. The decal designer is working on appropriate crimson lake lining livery lining for me as well. 

 

IM

 

 

 

 

[rue_d_etropal]

for chassis, maybe using some of the mini bogies . not Tomytec, but some other make, and low voltahge motor, but might be an option. For coupled whels, might have to try Z gauge stetched. I am using N gauge stretched to16.5mmm gauge for an Irish railcar in 3.14mm/ft . Quite common for French metre gauge modellers to stretch N gauge chassis to 12mm gauge.

 

Any news on the new book that Simon was writing. He sent me more info and some well worn drawings of original railcar proposal, which helped a lot, and enabled me to design an alternative version.