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J P Models - more radio controlled vehicles in 1:76 scale


Pikey
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I added the vehicle lighting kit from Justin at Scale Model Scenery to my beavertail truck at the weekend. And of course it already had the flashing warning beacon, from the same supplier.

 

Weirdly, I had to attach the resistors intended to allow 12V operation to both the white and red leds in order to get them both working from the one output, and I dont really understand why. When connecting all four leds in parallel (without resistors) - only the two red leds would come on. Admittedly, electronics is not my strong point. I can handle a bit of soldering, but thats about it.

 

 

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Red LEDs switch on at a lower voltage, say 2volts, than white LEDs at about 4 volts and take all the current, leaving nothing for the white LEDs.  You should ideally always fit a resistor per LED unless the resistors are wired in series.

 

You can often get away with one LED if all the LEDs are identical.

 

Edit to add extra info.

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Went to a fishing shop to buy some fishing line, so I've been fitting the pulley system to the Palfinger crane. Eyesight test for sure!

 

The line is 0.22mm diameter, and I used the smallest drill bit I had to drill a tiny hole in the 1.5mm diameter motor output shaft.

 

With the motor fitted underneath the chassis, nd the fishing line wound around the output shaft, operating the motor will wind in the line and retract the crane. I'll use either tiny springs or elastic to pull it back out. Thats the theory anyway :) 

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Edited by Pikey
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Some photos of the base of the crane - the cog has an 8mm hole in the centre, so I cut some 8mm diameter tube and mounted it to the chassis for the crane to pivot around.

 

The motor to drive this will be mounted vertically in the back of the cab.

 

Sensible size photos this time :) 

 

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First test of the arms of the crane. Only a partial success - the top bit works fine, but the bottom bit only went downwards and then broke at the pivot point shortly after I finished this video. I think I'm going to change and use the Hiab instead of the Palfinger. Both from Herpa, but the Hiab is more substantially built, without the silly black linkages passing over the back of the main body of the crane. 

 

Still, quite exciting to see it working for the first time. On to the mk2 :) 

 

 

 

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Looks fantastic. I am very envious of your progress. Keep at it, I am sure it will all come together. I find that it's pushing the boundaries that make this hobby enjoyable. Once I work out how to do everything in a project it gets boring and I move on to something new.

Hence why I have so few duplicates of anything and probably why I rarely finish a layout.

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  • 2 weeks later...

HIAB ordered and fitted out with elastic and fishing line, and I found that the same thing was happening with the pivot point for the first moving section - ie the tension from the elastic combined with the tension from the fishing line on the other side tended to want to pull the joint apart. Its very much more substantial than the Palfinger construction, but still only a small hole in the upper section fitted over a small dimple on the lower section. In the end, I just cut this off and replaced it with a section of truck axle.

 

Here's the first test:

 

 

Pleased with this now. It only lifts its own weight, but another bit of elastic on the lower section should sort that :) 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A better video:

 

 

I've since painted the white elastic black, and made some sides for the flatbed, as the loads and battery kept falling off.

 

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I've also 3D printed my own gearbox housing, which I've fitted to the lorry as well. After some fettling, and a bit of oil, it works really well :D

 

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  • 1 month later...

I've recently finished a very challenging but satisfying build of the DAS87 four wheel drive kit! I chose a classic Range Rover body (in 1:76 scale) to go over the chassis intended for a 1:87 Land Rover Defender, and although its a little rear-heavy, meaning it doesnt steer all that well going forwards, its the only vehicle I have capable of using the loading ramp that I built a long while ago and have never really been able to use. Shown here loading onto a warwell wagon:

 

 

Of course, I can transport by road as well:

 

 

:) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Latest project is a DAF XF. This one is going to have both rear axles driven, all lighting functions including being able to flash the top lights, and will also have a driver in the cab. I've tried to do a twin axle drivetrain before, without success - but that was before I had a 3D printer :)

 

Selected progress photos below:

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have fitted 8 yellow LEDs as marker lights on the trailer for the DAF XF:

 

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Also I'm experimenting with a system to raise and lower the jacks to allow auto coupling and uncoupling. Its quite a simple setup - just a bent 1mm diameter brass rod through the stanchions which I've drilled out, and a threaded nut on the top bit. The gear on the end of the threaded bar is operated by a worm gear fixed to a motor glued to the underside of the roof of the trailer - which moves the feet up and down. 

 

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Superb - I'm fascinated to see the approach to operating the jacks, as I have been struggling to work out how to operate a self-contained turntable mechanism on some French metre-gauge railcars, where a plate was would down to the rails and then wound further to raise the railcar, which was then turned to face the other direction by shoulder power.

 

Mick

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've just finished an ambulance, complete with flashing emergency lights (and all other lights including indicators, head and tail lights and reversing lights etc) :) 

 

I'm not happy with the motor, its jerky for some reason, so I need to sort that out. And I dont get why the grille lights are on instead of off in the normal state.

 

I've used the programming function to make the grille lights 'flash flash flash pause', which was quite tedious to do but the effect is worth it I think, specially in combination with the beacons which use flashing leds, it makes a good likeness to the multiple flashing/strobing lights on the real thing. A good tip I found out from a dutch 1:87 modelling Facebook group, is to use black nail polish to mask around the LEDs where they fix to the back of the light fittings, because its thicker than paint and doesnt conduct electricity. So you can paint it on liberally without risking a short.

 

 

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Inspired by the ambulance, and following Oxford's release of the Jaguar F-Pace police car, I thought I'd have a go at one of them too. Its quite a lot bigger than a Land Rover Defender, so it should be relatively easy :) 

 

If I remember, I'll try and do a sort of step-by-step photo sequence as I go along.

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