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Hornby - New tooling - Ruston 48DS 0-4-0


Andy Y
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20 hours ago, Stentor said:

I’ve just got a copy of Railway Bylines volume 10, issue 9 from August 2005.
 

There’s  an article on Chard and a picture of the Ruston shunter at the United Daries, later Unigate factory in 1962.

 

The caption says: “From 1937 to 1987 the factory had its own diesel shunter which moved the bulk tank wagons to and from an exchange siding.  In 1962 the factory’s loco was 48hp Ruston & Hornsby four wheeler W/No.183062 which had come new to the site in 1937.  After being replaced by another Ruston & Hornsby circa 1974, it was saved for preservation by the West Somerset Railway.  It later went to the Gwili Railway where it was named Folly”

 

//Simon

IIRC the later Ruston at Chard Junction was the larger 88hp type.

 

John

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On 15/01/2020 at 09:17, Ruston said:

No, this is the one that Hornby are doing in the Grant Rail livery. When built this would have not had the enclosed cab and the windows are definitely non-standard. They were probably done in the ownership of Grant Lyon Eagre. The axle guards are also the early, cranked, type and so the Hornby model is going to be wrong.

 

 32600977117_a901f4985b_b.jpg 

The above shows it in Grant Rail's livery, which Hornby are doing it in but without the windows and axle guards, it will be wrong for this loco. Grant Lyon Eagre had another 48DS that was a standard enclosed cab type, which, with slight alteration to the earlier Grant Lyon Eagre livery, would make an accurate model.

 

 

Could this be the ruston before the rebuild. Taken at the grant lion location in scunthorpe.  

FB_IMG_1579453727587.jpg

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15 hours ago, gpplumy said:

Could this be the ruston before the rebuild. Taken at the grant lion location in scunthorpe.  

FB_IMG_1579453727587.jpg

It's possible but, according to the IRS's 1987 Existing Locomotives book, Grant Lyon Eagre had four 48DS, one of which was a very close works number to 200793. 200796 was another and as the one in the photo has the cranked axle guards it could be 200793, which we know has them, or it could be 200796. Do you know when the photo was taken?

 

The cab being given a real bodge job of being lowered could have been reason to replace it with the one that 200793 now has but the odd thing about the one in the photo is that it is the keyhole type cab but with aluminium RH plates all-round. That type of cab seems to have gone out of production before the use of plates, rather than transfers, so it's a bit of a mystery. If it were in preservation I could imagine someone screwing plates to an old loco, because that's the sort of silly thing that preservationists to to industrial locos, but I can't imagine anyone in industry wasting their time doing it. Perhaps it went back to Lincoln for repair at some time and the plates were added then?

 

There is a photo of another of GLE's Rustons, in previous ownership, in  an issue of the Industrial Railway Record. I'll see if I can find it and will compare.

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2 minutes ago, Ruston said:

It's possible but, according to the IRS's 1987 Existing Locomotives book, Grant Lyon Eagre had four 48DS, one of which was a very close works number to 200793. 200796 was another and as the one in the photo has the cranked axle guards it could be 200793, which we know has them, or it could be 200796. Do you know when the photo was taken?

 

The cab being given a real bodge job of being lowered could have been reason to replace it with the one that 200793 now has but the odd thing about the one in the photo is that it is the keyhole type cab but with aluminium RH plates all-round. That type of cab seems to have gone out of production before the use of plates, rather than transfers, so it's a bit of a mystery. If it were in preservation I could imagine someone screwing plates to an old loco, because that's the sort of silly thing that preservationists to to industrial locos, but I can't imagine anyone in industry wasting their time doing it. Perhaps it went back to Lincoln for repair at some time and the plates were added then?

 

There is a photo of another of GLE's Rustons, in previous ownership, in  an issue of the Industrial Railway Record. I'll see if I can find it and will compare.

I'll see if I can find any more information on it dave !

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A quick question regarding DCC. I've got a small Zimo 6-pin deocer to fit.  The wires going into the little thing that looks a bit like a decoder on the model, as bought - are they plugs that can be pulled off the pins on this thing and pushed on to the pins of the decoder, or do I have to cut the wires off and solder them to the decoder pins?

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52 minutes ago, Ruston said:

A quick question regarding DCC. I've got a small Zimo 6-pin deocer to fit.  The wires going into the little thing that looks a bit like a decoder on the model, as bought - are they plugs that can be pulled off the pins on this thing and pushed on to the pins of the decoder, or do I have to cut the wires off and solder them to the decoder pins?

 

 

Yes, it's a 6-pin socket, with a blanking chip fitted. Just unplug the blanking chip, and pop the decoder in.

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1 hour ago, jrb said:

 

 

Yes, it's a 6-pin socket, with a blanking chip fitted. Just unplug the blanking chip, and pop the decoder in.

 

But get it the right way round.

For some reason Hornby's assemblers have decided to transpose the motor wiring and the pick-up wiring at the connector from the standard. (Doesn't make any difference) Just make sure you get pin one on the decoder to the outer connector with the wire on it.  Connecting it the wrong way shouldn't damage the decoder, just nowt will happen.

 

48DS-Hornby-041-EditSm.jpg.8bc9b7afaa290f82f91bfbba3fd6f348.jpg

 

pin 1 Orange Motor Right

pin 2 Grey Motor Left

pin 3 Red Right Rail

pin 4 black Left Rail

pin 5 White Front Headlight (F0)

pin 6 Yellow Rear Headlight (F0)

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3 hours ago, Ruston said:

A quick question regarding DCC. I've got a small Zimo 6-pin deocer to fit.  The wires going into the little thing that looks a bit like a decoder on the model, as bought - are they plugs that can be pulled off the pins on this thing and pushed on to the pins of the decoder, or do I have to cut the wires off and solder them to the decoder pins?

 

I have 2 Rustons and have different decoders in each.  The first decoder is the Guagmaster DCC93 fits well the other decoder is a Bachmann 6pin which is 4.5mm longer than the Guagemaster  decoder coming in at 14.5mm  yet still fits without a problem. Both are direct fit without a harness.

Edited by johnd
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It all went a bit wrong. I pulled on the plug and two wires came out of it. So I tried to solder the wires to the pins but the pins just fell off. Then I soldered the wires to the blobs of solder, where the pins were and it worked - until one wire came off. When I tried to solder it back on I ended up soldering two blobs together. The decoder is now scrap.

 

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  • 2 months later...
On 10/01/2020 at 14:23, Stubby47 said:

 

What did you use to strip the branding off? T-Cut?

 

On 11/01/2020 at 09:24, coline33 said:

Oliver, I join Stubby with wanting to know the method you successfully used to remove the MoD branding, please?

 

Hello!

Sorry for the delay!

 

T-cut would be a shout- however I used a tiny bit of white spirit on the end of a kebab stick. I had it to hand!

A elbow grease and it came off fine. If you are gonna use this method, be very careful!

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DSC_0513.JPG.0ef3da7831aca3850ffb5e1dd9570a73.JPG

Here is said Ruston!

I must say I am very impressed, it runs great over points (better than 0-6-0's from certain manufactures), the only modifications I have done is DCC chip her (DCC23 from Gaugemaster) and de-brand her. Next up is a weathering where she joins a fair queue.

Oliver

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 03/10/2019 at 21:58, pete55 said:

I've EM'd one using Kean Maygib all metal wheels...…….and the pickups just bend out enough to contact the wheel rear faces.

 

Apologies to drag up an old question, but for those who have rewheeled or otherwise dismantled their Rustons..... a query!

 

I've got the body off, straightforward.  But how on earth does the keeper plate come off? I can't see how it's held on.....  I've got some 10.5mm Black Beetle wheelsets here ready for an EM gauge conversion, and I'm completely stumped by getting the damned keeper plate off!

 

Any advice gratefully received...

 

Thanks

 

Alastair

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1 hour ago, clarkea1 said:

I've got some 10.5mm Black Beetle wheelsets here ready for an EM gauge conversion, and I'm completely stumped by getting the damned keeper plate off!

 

Lever the clips at each of the four corners out of their respective recesses.

 

48DS-Hornby-038-EditSm.jpg.0b89cc34993efdceb632053b9db6f8f3.jpg

 

P

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19 hours ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

Lever the clips at each of the four corners out of their respective recesses.

 

48DS-Hornby-038-EditSm.jpg.0b89cc34993efdceb632053b9db6f8f3.jpg

 

P

 

Porcy,

 

Excellent - many thanks! Once I'd got the keeper plate off, the conversion was relatively straightforward! The loco is now running nicely in EM.  I'm going to now paint the wheelsets, fit some etched coupling hooks and 3 links, add a driver and some weathering, and I don't think it really needs much more than that doing to it.  What a delightful model!!

 

Cheers

 

Alastair

 

Ruston.jpg

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  • 3 months later...
Guest Jack Benson

Has this been posted?

 

It is Morden, in the ‘new’ livery of Express Dairies.

 

Stay Safe and Tuck in Your Vest

 

0B97055D-7666-4975-959E-80A39D271738.jpeg.99fc342a1128a3ef9196d3fe9f85a082.jpeg

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I have just received one of these today. Looks OK other than it has a paint mark on what looks to be on the inside of a cab window.

 

20201017_144313.jpg.7af76465832bc5666e1e1ceadab8a279.jpg

 

Has anyone has this and is it a simple enough thing to solve with thinners?

 

I will likely be having things to bits anyway as I am going to fit a stay alive I think so I can lose the pickup truck, so I expect it will be simple enough to solve but could do with knowing if I am sending it back before I do that :lol:

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16 minutes ago, TomScrut said:

I have just received one of these today. Looks OK other than it has a paint mark on what looks to be on the inside of a cab window.

 

20201017_144313.jpg.7af76465832bc5666e1e1ceadab8a279.jpg

 

Has anyone has this and is it a simple enough thing to solve with thinners?

 

I will likely be having things to bits anyway as I am going to fit a stay alive I think so I can lose the pickup truck, so I expect it will be simple enough to solve but could do with knowing if I am sending it back before I do that :lol:

 

Both of mine run without the attached wagon over insulfrog points and neither give any problems, great little locos.

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On 13/10/2020 at 16:34, OliverRowley said:

Hello all,

Here's what I've done to mine! Featuring a little bit of fictional history.

Hope its a decent watch if you fancy!

 Thanks

Olly

You did say to comment if there's any way you can improve the modelling so here's my two penn'orth. It's too shiny. For a dirty and weathered loco it needs to lose the shine. A blow-over with matt varnish, perhaps?

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3 hours ago, TomScrut said:

I have just received one of these today. Looks OK other than it has a paint mark on what looks to be on the inside of a cab window.

 

20201017_144313.jpg.7af76465832bc5666e1e1ceadab8a279.jpg

 

Has anyone has this and is it a simple enough thing to solve with thinners?

 

I will likely be having things to bits anyway as I am going to fit a stay alive I think so I can lose the pickup truck, so I expect it will be simple enough to solve but could do with knowing if I am sending it back before I do that :lol:

Be very careful  with what you use to remove the paint as some will turn the glazing frosty. Best is something like T-cut applied with a cotton bud. It will leave very fine scratches but these can removed by coating with clear acrylic varnish. 

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