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Hornby - New tooling - Ruston 48DS 0-4-0


Andy Y
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36 minutes ago, Ruston said:

I am planning to build a scrapyard micro layout and so have just weathered my latest purchase to be the motive power. The scrapyard acquired it from the MOD and it has received a few knocks and scrapes, not to mention not getting cared for anything like as well as it would have in army service.

4dsnewmodel-005.jpg.48e1375ab9ca202e7ea4b964255d368a.jpg

 

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Very nice weathering Ruston, not overdone at all it looks great, how did you acheive that? 

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Walked over the Thames in driving rain to have a pre-Xmas browse at Ian Allan by Waterloo yesterday evening.

 

Saw 3 versions of the Rustons in the cabinet and was instantly smitten. Had no plans to buy one but couldn't resist the Queen Anne - last QA in the shop despite them only arriving the other day. £69.99 in store so very pleased. Currently running in on my test track.

 

A truly stunning little model.

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On 20/12/2019 at 14:21, gwrrob said:

Mine is in progress and I was told they are overwhelmed with new releases and there is a backlog in the despatch department.

 

Now in the post. [21/12/19]

 

Mine too (CC debited 22/12/2019) - but I doubt it will arrive tomorrow :sad_mini2:

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2 hours ago, AlexHolt said:

Anyone got any photos of the John Dewar & Sons version? I'm thinking of picking one up but the paint finish looks very plastic like on all the retailer's photos, could just be the white background and all the lighting they use. I can't find many customer pictures of this one, did it not sell as well as the others?

 

 


There is at least one video on YouTube:


Roy
 

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8 minutes ago, AlexHolt said:

 

Thanks. 

Thats the only video I can find on youtube of this model. Can't find any other videos or photos online of this particular one. 

 

The video makes it look like the engine compartment is a different shade of red to the under frames and cab doors. Similar to what I thought of the pictures on hattons and rails. 

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I'm thinking I'll go down to my local model shop and see if they have any in stock to see if they actually look like that in person. I'd have bought the lined green version if they hadn't all sold out everywhere. 


Interestingly this photo (not mine) of the prototype makes the red look different as well and, in my opinion, quite toy like. 
 

Dewar Highlander

 

Roy

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Is anyone else having trouble separating the chassis from the body?

 

Have just received my MOD 48DS and want to fit a decoder but am really struggling to get the body off and want to be careful as I don't want to do any damage.

 

Yes, I have removed the four screws. Yes, I have removed the coupling bar and connecting wires. Yes, I have removed the front coupling blank. Yes, I have made sure that the plugs are clear of the body and not fouling.

 

I can't see anything else holding the two together and yet I can't make the chassis move even the slightest. Have tried gentle prising with a screwdriver in the front coupling slot but NO movement at all.

Almost as if glued in. Actually a tiny amount of shiny hard stuff (like hardened glue) around the rear coupling mount and I am unable to get a scalpel between the body and chassis at that point (but I am not trying too hard at present).

 

Suggestions gratefully received please. Thanks.

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4 hours ago, highpeakman said:

Is anyone else having trouble separating the chassis from the body?

 

Have just received my MOD 48DS and want to fit a decoder but am really struggling to get the body off and want to be careful as I don't want to do any damage.

 

Yes, I have removed the four screws. Yes, I have removed the coupling bar and connecting wires. Yes, I have removed the front coupling blank. Yes, I have made sure that the plugs are clear of the body and not fouling.

 

I can't see anything else holding the two together and yet I can't make the chassis move even the slightest. Have tried gentle prising with a screwdriver in the front coupling slot but NO movement at all.

Almost as if glued in. Actually a tiny amount of shiny hard stuff (like hardened glue) around the rear coupling mount and I am unable to get a scalpel between the body and chassis at that point (but I am not trying too hard at present).

 

Suggestions gratefully received please. Thanks.

 

Finally managed  to separate the two.

 

There is something, possibly oil (?), around the front screw holes under the chassis. Not sure what it is but something liquid seems to be holding the two parts together. Continuous gentle prising and finally a very faint crack noise (not something breaking!) as something gave and then it all came apart OK.

 

Edit: It's weird. Whatever the "liquid" was it appears to have dried up by itself while the chassis was being fitted with the decoder. Reassembled and disassembled again without problems.

 

Runs beautifully without match truck. Very happy - now!

Edited by highpeakman
Progress.
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Has anyone worked out how to separate the cab from the rest of the body? I've taken the body off the running chassis and there are two screws that appear to be holding the cab on. I've taken the screws out and the cab now rattles, so it doesn't appear to be glued to anything else but there's clearly something preventing it from coming off.

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15 minutes ago, Ruston said:

Has anyone worked out how to separate the cab from the rest of the body? I've taken the body off the running chassis and there are two screws that appear to be holding the cab on. I've taken the screws out and the cab now rattles, so it doesn't appear to be glued to anything else but there's clearly something preventing it from coming off. 

On the 08 which has a similar design (small bonnet larger cab) it might be clipped at front to the bonnet.

The body sits in a slot on the end of the bonnett and is clipped at the bottom on the inside of the opening but not sure how the cab is fitted on the Ruston. 

 

It's hard to describe and unfortunately I've got no images to hand.

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5 hours ago, Ruston said:

Has anyone worked out how to separate the cab from the rest of the body?

 

 

I've done three now. All but one fell off once the two screws had been removed. The screws enter two cast spigots on the cab floor that engage in matching recesses in the outer chassis block. The tight one had a bit of leverage help with a no. 17 wedge blade and upon inspection seemed to have an excess of paint on the cab bottom.

 

BUT  before attempting to remove the cab I first remove the front buffer beam moulding. This locks the  separate bonnet/cab assemblies in place  via the flange along the top of the buffer beam.

 

Happy Crumble,

P

 

Edited by Porcy Mane
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Errr,  sorry to ask again but what is the best method of removing the front coupling blanking plug? I need to fit a #17.

 

IMG_1270_1000.JPG.jpg.310ee6f3506c969153134e79d7698159.jpg

 

I have tried the tip of a scalpel (the blood stopped after a couple of minutes under the cold tap), a tiny weeny instrument screwdriver (again, another blood-letting exercise) and finally asking it to come out - which failed but didn't involve pain, blood but did cause my wife to snigger*.

 

Thank you 

 

*Postscript - SWMBO used the scalpel and the tiny plug just popped out, much muttering followed (mine) and even more laughter (hers)

Edited by Jack Benson
Humiliation but I will have my revenge.
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2 hours ago, Jack Benson said:

Brian,

 

Please explain a little more, especially colour scheme and methods. THANK YOU.

 

JB

I have not done much apart from repaint the Army one I used a photo from a Magazine (know idea which as its a cutting i was given so we could make the cab side plates (we 247 Developments) the nearest green paint i had to hand was GW Citadel's  Loren Forest which than was weathered (still need to some more)

 

the plates are here  

http://247developments.co.uk/electrics_&_diesels.html

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1 hour ago, mozzer models said:

I have not done much apart from repaint the Army one I used a photo from a Magazine (know idea which as its a cutting i was given so we could make the cab side plates (we 247 Developments) the nearest green paint i had to hand was GW Citadel's  Loren Forest which than was weathered (still need to some more)

 

the plates are here  

http://247developments.co.uk/electrics_&_diesels.html

 

 

Large colour photo of DS1169 can be found here and thanks Brian, the plates are excellent.

 

JB

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