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Hi folks

 

We have a nasty habit on Abbotswood! We have to change the headcodes to something meaningful for our layout - which on bacchy models means scrapping the original glazing as the headcode is printed on the reverse.

 

Precision labels headcodes are our preferred replacements - and until now have replaced the original glazing over these with acetate cut from stock box windows. But is difficult to get a decent fit!

 

I wonder if it would be possible - using the Bachmann original as a pattern - to get lazer cut glazing done ? Any thoughts or advice please? Theres a whole fleet of Bachmann Class 43 Warships - thats 33 locos, 132 pieces of glazing - to tackle.

 

Many thanks

 

Phil

 

 

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You will need (someone with) a CO2 laser for the job, as the diode lasers that many of us have won't cut such things, due to the inappropriate light frequency (or something...!). i.e., you need red light and not blue light for the job....

 

(hope that's of some use!)

 

Giles

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You could try a low tech approach to glazing. I was racking my brains trying to work out how to glaze an Airfix Class 31 was more tricky than it first looks (Tim Shackleton couldn't do an O guage 31 so that made me feel good!)  I then hit upon the idea of trying Krystal Klear which is a sort of viscous pva. Ordinary pva might work but I've kept with what works for me.  Place a small amount of the white goo into a headcode box, you don't need much.  Ease it around into the corners with a cocktail stick and make sure there are no air bubbles.  You need to stand the model on end overnight (taking care to protect any couplings etc on the end that's taking the weight).
 
Herewith a Lima 101, Airfix 31 and Mainline 45.  Afraid the close-ups are a bit cruel, especially with the cab glazing using other methods, but publish and be damned.  The principle should work for any shape of headcode box.  I've taken 2 angles on each of them - as it doesn't always show in some angles in some lighting conditions.

 

post-11293-0-81078200-1546257323_thumb.jpg

 

post-11293-0-88971600-1546257328_thumb.jpg

 

post-11293-0-12472100-1546257335_thumb.jpg

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Many thanks Metroland

 

Micro Krystal Clear is a product we use exactly as you describe. However the precision labels headcodes have an issue - the ink is water soluble, and this product is water based....

 

You can guess the result of mixing the two. 

 

Yours look good! What have you used for the headcode characters?

 

Seasons greetings

Phil

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Yours look good! What have you used for the headcode characters?

 

Seasons greetings

Phil

 

Class 31 was Railtec.  i think the 45 was Railtec but honestly can't remember.  Lima 101 was original as it had no covering so I just added some Krystal Klear.

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Have you tried a more gentle method of removing the printed headcode and then polishing the original glazing pieces?

 

David

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Hi David

 

Yes indeed - a recipe for masochism in my experience! Also with headcodes behind them rather than printed on the digits look set too deeply....

 

Have had a thought though - might try making a mould from the original and casting Krystal clear in that then installing once set....

 

Phil 

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Just another thought.  Is it worth trying an experiment with one of the fixing sprays you use for inkjet printed documents?  eg spray the label and then try the Krystal Klear in the hope the pva won't interact with the label whilst drying?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001ILR3J6/ref=asc_df_B001ILR3J657791395/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B001ILR3J6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205189075860&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1457939823178592476&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045399&hvtargid=pla-421874106401&th=1&psc=1

 

(Other sprays available)

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Just another thought.  Is it worth trying an experiment with one of the fixing sprays you use for inkjet printed documents?  eg spray the label and then try the Krystal Klear in the hope the pva won't interact with the label whilst drying?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001ILR3J6/ref=asc_df_B001ILR3J657791395/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B001ILR3J6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205189075860&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1457939823178592476&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045399&hvtargid=pla-421874106401&th=1&psc=1

 

(Other sprays available)

 

Many thanks - hadnt come across that, will give it a go

 

Phil

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Absolutely Mike - but he does have a lot on his plate!

 

Phi

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Hi folks

 

We have a nasty habit on Abbotswood! We have to change the headcodes to something meaningful for our layout - which on bacchy models means scrapping the original glazing as the headcode is printed on the reverse.

 

Precision labels headcodes are our preferred replacements - and until now have replaced the original glazing over these with acetate cut from stock box windows. But is difficult to get a decent fit!

 

I wonder if it would be possible - using the Bachmann original as a pattern - to get lazer cut glazing done ? Any thoughts or advice please? Theres a whole fleet of Bachmann Class 43 Warships - thats 33 locos, 132 pieces of glazing - to tackle.

 

Many thanks

 

Phil

 

Phil

 

I know, it would be a lot of work for all these locos, but have you tried using T-Cut or Brasso /cotton bud to remove the Bach printed headcodes.  I used this method on Bach Class 20 box glazing and it worked well, leaving a nice polished clear finish. 

The idea was to get translucent headcodes that would allow light through them, I've used Precision labels in the past (HJ47) and they are very good, but for the 20's I tried printing some off on photo quality paper both domino's and No/letters and they worked really well. 

 

Happy New Year

 

Ken

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Phil

 

I know, it would be a lot of work for all these locos, but have you tried using T-Cut or Brasso /cotton bud to remove the Bach printed headcodes.  I used this method on Bach Class 20 box glazing and it worked well, leaving a nice polished clear finish. 

The idea was to get translucent headcodes that would allow light through them, I've used Precision labels in the past (HJ47) and they are very good, but for the 20's I tried printing some off on photo quality paper both domino's and No/letters and they worked really well. 

 

Happy New Year

 

Ken

 

Happy New Year to you Ken

 

Yes indeed have done that in the past but gave it up! Your sticking powers must be greater than mine.....

 

Perhaps I am looking for easy out!

 

Phil

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Happy New Year to you Ken

 

Yes indeed have done that in the past but gave it up! Your sticking powers must be greater than mine.....

 

Perhaps I am looking for easy out!

 

Phil

 

Sticking powers !  Managed 3 x 20's   :jester: and that's a long long way short of 33 locos......definitely a need here for an easier solution..............

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Thanks to he kindness of another RMWeb member this is moving along - CADs are in hand to go for laser cutting of glazing

 

WIll share again once completed

 

Phil

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On 17/03/2019 at 05:19, BrushType4 said:

If you need a laser cutter, I’d be happy to help. 

 

Thanks Barry - will be in touch via PM

 

Phil

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