RJdeVries Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 A couple of hours where spend today laying track and building a locmotive shed. Locomotive Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The base for the shed was made using 2mm plasticcard and the stone foundation underneith the brickwork is also constructed from 2mm plasticcard. Locomotive Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Both locomotives will fit in the shed, as is a small workshop and personell room for a much deserved cup of tea. Locomotive Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr A few hours later the brickwork was glued in place, the openings for the windows and doors where cut prior to assembly, these are ready to recieve there inserts. Locomotive Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The outside inspection pit is also in use for cleaning the ash pan as well as taking water and coal, these structures are to be build. Locomotive Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The loco fit's neatly in the shed, there is enough headroom for an 08 but more likely would be an 0-6-0 austerity, that would make for an interesting set of locomotives. Regards, Robbert Jan. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 I've made a bit of progress with the engine shed, I've made a start inserting the window frames and the door opening. Locomotive Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr A selection of smaller plasticcard pieces will fill the openings to accomodate small sections of glass, the upper portion of the window will in some instances be opened (tipped) towards the inside to let in some fresh air. Locomotive Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr It starts to resemble a usable structure now, the details make the building that is for sure. Regards, Robbert Jan. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 Made a lot of progress today with the landscaping, I've filled in most of the open areas and I'm currently filling in the gaps and smoothing everything out. I'm using 20mm foam insulation and 3mm underfloor foam for laminate flooring. Landscaping by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Landscaping by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The most tricky bit is the bridge that will be inserted here, or rather will be build on site since the location is so akward. Landscaping by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I'ts starting to slowly crawl out of the construction fase into the modelling fase, I've also drilled some 35mm holes in the front of the layout using a hole saw. These holes will be used to mount 35mm Pvc end caps, these will house the toggle switch for operating the corresponding point motor. Meanwile the ex GWR 1368 has arrived with some empty's awaiting the full wagons. This will not be the usual going about since the main line is hidden in the staging yard. I've also ordered a few lenghts of Peco bullhead rail to replace the flexitrack sections since this will make the look of the trackwork even more "authentic" The engine shed didn't go without any progress, some more detail pieces where applied to the windows and above the entrance I've placed an I-beam for some added detail. Engine Shed by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Hope you enjoy, Robbert Jan. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 I've spend my free monday wheathering some coal wagons, mainly the grey versions since these give an instand dramatic effect, 7 bauxite one's also need doing. Wheathering coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Wheathering coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr These have obviously been stored somewhere and they have gone without use for some time. Wheathering coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Wheathering coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr A nice big spot of rust, this is something I found on actual pictures. Wheathering coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr This wagon has a few rust spots but these are not really fresh rust. Wheathering coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Wheathering coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Both the above have been sitting somewhere wet and damp, these two really took a beating from the elements. Hope you enjoy! Robbert Jan. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed7 Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 This weathering looks good. What is your method? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 Hi Ed7, Depending on the type and amount of rust or corrosion I'm using a 5 or 3 step process. Used paints. Ammo / Mig by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The wagon shown above is wheathered using the bottles displayed, using them in order from right to left, applying the light rust first and working my way towards the darker tones. Used paints. Ammo / Mig by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The color numbers that I used are shown above, these are all Mig / Ammo colors. If you do not wat to make the wagons with the amount of rust that I applied but just prefer to give them a more subtile look with wheathered spots the light rust colors should not be applied and the brown tones will do nicely, applied light to dark that is. Bauxite wheathering by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Shown above are a couple of Bauxite colored wagons, these do not recieve a rusty look but just wheathered on top of the existing wheathering, using just 3 shades of brown rust tones. Bauxite wheathering by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've also used one of the brown tones to repaint some wagon sides where the sheet metal was replaced. Wheathered coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Using dots and smaller blobs of paint the result will be most satisfying, I've not got a great set of different wagons that will look the part on my new layout. (and that is not shown above, this is my Dutch layout without the backscene) Wheathered coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Wheathered coal wagons by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. 9 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted February 3, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2019 I do like those unfitted (grey) wagons, Robbert, very nicely done! Cheers, Ian. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Amongst preparing my other layout for a show there is still time to do small projects involving some dcc sound installment in a shunter. The sound is from Digitrains and Paul Chetter. Sentinel Shunter by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Hornby Sentinel R3577 was purchased last week and has already been fitted with sound as seen above, there is very little room in the model so a bit of practical thinking was required. I've actually glued the read hood to the cabin and removed the body screwmount that keeps the hood down on the chassis. The handbrake wheel also had to go but this will return fitted in a different position. Sentinel Shunter by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Resulting in a "large" open space that will provide some extra room for a small Zimo Mx648r decoder. The speaker is a sugarcurve from Youchoos that I had laying around. Sentinel Shunter by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've also placed a stay alive circuit underneith the motor where there is some space that was just big enough to house it. (Zimo Sacc16 + 2 tantalum capacitors 330uF) And ofcourse a small clip; Hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Well, the Sentinel has seen the light, after a few adjustments to the amount emitted a few photos where made showing it of to my mum and dad. Hornby Sentinel by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Hornby Sentinel by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've also painted the cabin interior grey as that seems to be a more fitting color then the blue plastic that Hornby put in there, with some cosmetic black dots on the dials and levers it looks very smart. I've also removed all of the glazing and have taken a section of the larger windows as they would be opened in real life use. (it takes patience not to crack the plastic....) Now the sound has somwhere to go too, it made a 100% improvement to the volume so well worth the effort there. Hornby Sentinel by Robbert Jan., on Flickr She definitly looks very smart now, time for some wheathering and detailing. Regards, Robbert Jan. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 It's been quiet for a few weeks, a lot of work has gone in my Dutch layout and the exhibition that took place a good week ago, again, back to the Colliery. The R&J Colliery Ltd. by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've been positioning the loading facility to it's final position, I wanted to make an opening in the side of the cabinet in order to fill the facility with coal but this is in, obviously, a fixed position. The R&J Colliery Ltd. by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've cut a large enough flap in the side with a spare metal sawblade since the teeth are finer and to not distroy the plywood as it is being cut, the blade was handled with a pair of thick gloves. The R&J Colliery Ltd. by Robbert Jan., on Flickr And this is the result, a nice flap that allows for the whole installation to be extracted, also handy for maintenance etc. The R&J Colliery Ltd. by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've also replaced all of the flexitrack with Bullhead code 75, it looks a lot better. The R&J Colliery Ltd. by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The R&J Colliery Ltd. by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Well, thats all for today, hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. 12 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 Another free weekend, that means a bit of moddeling and some jobs around the house. Ofcourse, the moddeling; Building bridjes "facades" by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've made a start building a facade to make the bridge a lot more appealing to look at. A few quick mesurements later a rough sketch was made and from that I decided to have a go. After cutting some plain styrene sheet in the correct shape I made sure that the arches where in the correct spot before cutting them out, it's a tight fit between the underside of the bridge and the top of the car, but it will do. A second styrene sheet with brickwork was glued on top and was left to dry between 2 books. This makes for a solid and sturdy wall that is about 3mm thick. Building bridjes "facades" by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The "track side" was also given a slither of brickwork and I held this in place with some re-engineered clothes pegs. Building bridjes "facades" by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The photo above was taken just now, the progress is noticable and there is no more white styrene to be seen, all excess material will be cut of once the glue has set, tomorrow that is. Building bridjes "facades" by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've also relayed the track on the bridge, it sits dead center now between the walls. And a short clip! (mind the volume) I'll be continueing tomorrow, hope you enjoy. Regards, Robbert Jan. 16 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1722 Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Only just spotted this cracker. Followed! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 (edited) Thanks Chris, glad you enjoy! I've been ballasting some parts of the layout since these are "finished" enough that there will be no more alterations from this point forward. Ballasting track by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The bridge was the first to recieve a layer of ballast and it looks a lot better this way. I've used the regular methode to apply ballast, small ladle, brushes, 50/50 PVA/water and a dash of soap. When dry I usually go over the track and ballast with a brass brush (kind of like a toothbrush) to get rid of loose ballast and the shine on the sleepers a.k.a. plastic pieces Ballasting track by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The ballast I use is from Germany and is ordered directly from the manufacturer, I'ts specified for N gauge but is actually great for either H0 or 00 gauge modelling. (it's as fine as woodland ballast) With that done attention was given to some eye sores and these where addressed by making a couple of new sleepers for each set of points, I normally used to lenghten the stock sleeper with some wood or plastic but since acces is good I managed to change them all over, detailing with new rail clamps will obviously follow as the build progresses. Detailing and Detailing by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've also taken the time to add some fences to the more drastic inclines, mainly to hold back the ballast and keeping it from spilling out over the road surface below, it looks pretty neat. Detailing and Detailing by Robbert Jan., on Flickr A small weighbridge was also added since I saw one in a video on Youtube. the bridge is seperated from the rest of the tracks, as in there are no fishplates. The wires to the Dcc bus are there. Weighbridge etc. by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. Edited March 14, 2019 by RJdeVries 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin Streeting Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 nice i realy like the loading station... and want to see it working do you unload by hand. in fiddle yard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted March 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2019 Hi there. I'm loving the weathering on the steel mineral wagons mate they are very well done. Regards Lez.Z. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 Hi Calvin, The loading station is filled (about 3 loads are held by each hopper) by hand trough the flap in the side of the cabinet. The wagons are then loaded by a series of 4 servomotors (these are manually operated via the Dcc controller, a Roco Multimaus or WlanMouse) The wagons will be unloaded behind the scenes in the fiddle yard prior to returning for another fill. (also manually, just pick them up and release the contents.) Thanks for the compliments Lez.Z. I'll be doing some more work to the layout in order to het everything running smootly prior to shooting another clip of the loading station operating. The newly installed sleepers need a bit of stain (thinned black paint) prior to ballasting the larger portion of the layout. I'm planning to use some techniques seen done by Chris Nevard, as in using DAS clay to fill in the space between the tracks to recreate a used and dirty yard. Regards, Robbert Jan. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted March 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2019 Really like the way this is going. You can get an awful lot of fun out of a small space when you try! David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 Thanks David! I've chosen to build as small as possible but keeping in mind to create a fun and interactive layout with lots of possibilities. Continueing, I've made some progress ballasting the trackwork and building a few new structures out of styrene profiles. Ballasting by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Ballasting was done last week, this has since cured and is solid as a rock, not all of the track was done at this time since I'm not done with some small jobs that can't be done after ballasting. Conveyor Bridge and support by Robbert Jan., on Flickr My first try at a conveyor spanning the road and rail, it's definitly high enough but there is the need for a center support structure, as seen down below. Conveyor Bridge and support by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Mesured the distance between conveyor and ground and made a support structure that will fit and do the job nicely as is seen below, pictures that I took an hour ago. Conveyor and Main by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Conveyor and Main by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The car fit's neatly and there are no collision issues, I'm very pleased to say the least. Conveyor and Main by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The conveyor has a very slight angle of about 1 in 30 (as in centimeters) that really gives the right feel. I'm currently assembling the building on the left, it will have brickwork up to the horizontal beams. (that said, I'm also adding a couple of beams mid way the vertical beams) The top portion will consist of sheet steel corrugated panels that will double the height of the building. Hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Robert, Wow!!! What a fantastic little layout, it is really taking shape in a wonderful manner and I will be following your progress with interest from now on. Industrial locos and buildings in a compact space.... ticks all the boxes for me Those buildings are coming on a treat and the weathering of the 16t minerals is superb. You obviously have a superb eye for colouring and detail. Absolutely cracking stuff! I am highly impressed. Thanks for sharing. David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted April 3, 2019 Author Share Posted April 3, 2019 I't has been a while, a lot of time was spend at work getting to grips with new trains and the implementation of these on the main line, this means I'm quite buzzy these days. But, I've also been doing some work to the buildings on the layout. The larger Main building of the Coal Mine was given a basic layer of styrene sheeting to define the actual shape of the building, this will be covered with steel corrugated sheeting etc. Building buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The roof was originally intended as being pitched but a flat roof would be better suited in conjunction with the background, flat is is. The roofing material is strips of masking tape (1 x 6 centimeter) applied randomly to give the whole roof a nice look and feel when painted up. All this whilst enjoying a cup of earl grey Building buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Building buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The larger open areas are to fitted with glass, semi opaque so there is little to see inside but light is able to pass trough from the inside to the outside. Building buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The windowframes are made using 1,5mm U profile and 0,75mm square rod, the 2 above are for the sides of the building. Building buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr And seen above is the result as we speak, that is, a new conveyor is in the works since the currect one is to "fat" and it doesn't look right. Hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steggy1990 Posted April 3, 2019 Share Posted April 3, 2019 What a great layout so great details there keep up the great work mate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin Streeting Posted April 3, 2019 Share Posted April 3, 2019 Nice... will the conveyor belt work ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveNCB7754 Posted April 3, 2019 Share Posted April 3, 2019 Really enjoying your progress on this one. Are you sure about using masking tape for the roof? Experience of adhesive tapes of all sorts here in the UK these days (and especially masking tape), is that I would not trust it to stick to itself, let alone stay stuck to a model for very long. Who's tape are you using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 It has been a while since I've posted an update, and there is reason to update First off; Calvin, the conveyor is just a static piece, it's merely there to connect both buildings to one and other. This draws the attention away from the background, it's therefore not functional. Steve, I'm using "tesa" masking tape, I've used it on many of my other buildings that are to date 4 to 5 years old and there is no visible peeling or any sign that the tape is coming loose. It probably has to do with the brand of tape, I've also used cheap masking tape but that really wouldn't stick to anything but itself. Well, some pictures of the progress so far. Styrene Buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr I've added some sides to the conveyor giving it a bit more presence and it looks good, this is the second one I've made since the first one was to big and this looked odd in comparison with the other buildings. Styrene Buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr Obviously, a coal mine needs a shaft and that means building a headstock and a building to go with it. The idea is that the left hand side of the layout has some "older" buildings that get progressively newer towards the right hand side. Styrene Buildings by Robbert Jan., on Flickr A few hours later several openings where cut for windows and a large acces door for maintenance to the elevator. Shaft building by Robbert Jan., on Flickr And since the building has to look old, brick was used to enhance the look, the lower half of the building will consist of larger stone blocks. Shaft building by Robbert Jan., on Flickr It's starting to get a more "finished" feel, there is the need for a small structure in between the elevator building and the main hall, but that will be a project to follow once inspiration is found. Meanwhile I'm thinking about building a large octagonal chimney as I've seen on my holiday near York 5 years ago. It really appeals to me and it would probably be an added eyecatcher. Well, thats all for now, hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. 11 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJdeVries Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 A few days have passed, I've been thinking about the process of making a couple of large elevator wheels as seen on the headstock of a coal mine. Since I've been unable to find one to buy, making them myself was the obvious option, so here we go. I needed a set of wheels that where approximatly 70 mm in diameter and this lead me to a piece of scrap PVC pipe with a diamter of 70 mm (outside), this would give me a nice 66 mm wheel. Elevator Wheel by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The wheels are made of "Evergreen" styrene profiles and these where inserted in to the pipe. This will ensure the "roundness" of the wheel once the glue has set firm. The outer ring of the wheel is made of a lenght of 3,2mm I Beam on it's side giving me the groove in the circumference of the wheel to guide the elevator cable. With this first piece in place I've added a second piece of 2mm U profile to the inside in order strenghten the wheel by glueing the whole circumference. The seam that will occur at the ends of the material is the weakest point as the circle will be liable to bow outward once released from the PVC pipe, this is why the inner 2mm U profile is gleued 180 degrees opposite to the I beam. (as the end of the material is concerned.) Elevator Wheel Support by Robbert Jan., on Flickr In order to create a working headstock a platform with bearings was made out of scrap styrene sheet and a few pieces of brass tube. Elevator Wheel Spokes by Robbert Jan., on Flickr The next step was to set the spokes in there position on the wheel, making use of the lines that exist on the cutting mat, the center was carefully mesured out and I started with just 4 spokes that mesure 1,2mm in diameter. The wheel is slightly raised up from the ground to allow for a larger wider hub that will reduce wobble once installed. Elevator Wheel by Robbert Jan., on Flickr In total 16 spokes where glued in, I do really like the end result as it resembles that wat I had in mind. Elevator Wheel by Robbert Jan., on Flickr And once out of the PVC pipe the wheel is almost true, there is just a little wobble that is ajustable with minimal force required, I'm therefore very pleased with this result, off to make number two Hope you enjoy! Regards, Robbert Jan. 8 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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