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RhB Om workbench, (and layout eventually)


PaulRhB
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1 hour ago, PaulRhB said:

The transfer film on the silver van shows up far worse in photos than in person. Hopefully more weathering will hide it in photos too. 
8F64EEC0-2132-4718-93EE-95FCAEE7FC1C.jpeg.d5c03ef95a7688330f2e8eb892f1a790.jpeg

 

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Try pricking the silvering with the tip of a scaple blade and go over it with your decal solution (preferably something strong like Micro Sol)

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Done it twice, it’s not silver when you look at it straight on, it catches the light as a higher surface and at an angle it looks darker rather than lighter. It had microset underneath and two applications of microsol but it still shows up in photos! The higher of the two photos is what you see in reality but it’s not as pronounced as the camera makes it look to your eyes. It’s a bit odd and I wonder if it’s dulled the silver paint underneath somehow by reducing the reflection because of the thick film?

Around the ‘n’ of Bahn is what it looks like to the eye but you get the odd light effects at angles. 

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D4CD78B7-9717-4E6F-9A35-48E97109B651.jpeg.4935fadf59bf482b7d9ca1b0acc25f03.jpeg

 

The advertising liveries got washed and stayed fairly clean so this only got a light wash around the details. 

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The general pool vans didn’t get the same care so got a heavier coating. 

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Excellent work Paul - The RhB has come out extremely well despite your concerns.

 

If you are making further decals here are some interesting RGB combinations to try - Put these codes into Word (Font colour; more colour; click on Custom Tab then enter codes)

Gold: Red=192, Green=168, Blue=104

Deeper Gold: Red=165, Green=138, Blue=82

Silver: Red=151, Green=151, Blue=168

Copper: Red=205, Green=115, Blue=0

And further variations round these numbers to tune to match.

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I usually do it with dry brushing but I’ll have a play thanks. 
 

I just did a brown wash inside and then dropped in some grey and got a rather nice effect, it’s got yellowish edges and looks like rust so far. 
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Edited by PaulRhB
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I remembered that I had another of the basic Fama flats to convert so I dug that out this morning and set about adding the girder top and bottom and moving the stake pockets to the right place. I’m not sure what the plastic is but it sort of flakes in layers so you have to liberally soak it in plasticweld to get any purchase. I also reinforce the joints with superglue as I’m not totally convinced the plasticweld gets really into it! 
Anyway the existing conversion to remind me what I did in the background. 
13632235-25C9-4E08-B66A-D9A9A3755477.jpeg.b5e83ba8544e1b2369340a3eb08aa737.jpeg

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Paul i would'nt have known if you had'nt said what they were! You're a clever bloke, can you please tell me how do you attach your layout details/links at the base of your postings? I bet a lot on here think i only post my old pics' and not actually model/make stuff as well.:lol:

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1 hour ago, Owd Bob said:

Paul i would'nt have known if you had'nt said what they were! You're a clever bloke, can you please tell me how do you attach your layout details/links at the base of your postings? I bet a lot on here think i only post my old pics' and not actually model/make stuff as well.:lol:

Bob

They're in settings and signature.

Type a title ‘Bob’s 16mm’

Open your thread in another window, if you then copy the link for the thread  and go back to the signature. 
Highlight ‘Bobs 16mm’ then click on the two chain links next to the emoticon symbol and you should get a pop up to paste the link you copied into. Save it and it should appear in your signature.  I think you can paste 4 or 6 links in that way. 


If you need more help ’pm’ me and I’ll do some screenshots to take you through it :) 

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2 hours ago, MichaelE said:

 

What's going on with the US style nuckle couplers Paul?

Bemo are using them on all their Om stock and as the Alpinline couplers are  too clunky and a pain to uncouple I’m in agreement ;)

operation over looks until someone can make a tiny auto hook to go under a scale buffer. 

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  • 3 months later...
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ahem these are a bit bigger but maybe I can use the Om in perspective ;)

My Kroks now renumbered to match the real pair I rode last year, Narrow Planet custom plates. 
 

LGB Krokodil

 

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Some more items turned up on Hattons s/h sale,

 

Two scratchbuilt hoppers that just need a little fettling and weathering. 
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and two Alpinline rarities

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and I eventually weakened and got this too. 
Alpinline again so not as detailed as the Bemo ones but I’ve got a green bodyshell so I’ll swap it over to run an 80’sxset occasionally. At a quarter of the price this is well ahead of a railroad style second place!

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So now I need to build the 4/4iii and this 4/4ii some new motor bogies as the Alpinline ones are too long with a 60mm wheelbase, too small wheels, coarse flanges, sound like coffee grinders and incorrect sideframes too. 
The 4/4iii need 53mm long while the 4/4/ii needs 51mm long. I could cheat and make both 52 but it only saves about two minutes with the drill so I may as well do it right. 


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I’ve sourced plain disc 3’1” wheels from Slaters and shimmed them out on 1/8 21mm gauge axles designed for IoM stock and they’ll be going in Branchlines 51:1 gearboxes giving me four traction motors on each loco. 

 

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  • 7 months later...
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The thing almost as rare as the 4/4iii turned up for a good price and once a few loose windows were refitted I’m very happy as this was the missing piece for the layout for the local service. 
 

IMG_0877.jpeg.ce755e3ac178c1c916c163a9bd7dba3c.jpeg
 

I also added a kadee to the outer set end so I’ll be able to attach wagons or coaches. 
 

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Plus I filled the huge void that allowed the Alpinline coupling to swing. Fixed kadees will work with the curves I’m using from some tests. 
 

IMG_0900.jpeg.618e90de9095c43e7f19f5a3cd8ee3a8.jpeg

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