Starting in OO-SF C&L Track Questions and Shopping list...

[RexAshton]

My point about 16.5 3 point gauge was that as the OP was asking for suggestions I pointed out that IF he used 16.5 but built his points to a finer standard - not gauge - he would be able to use ready to lay plain track - much cheaper than separate chairs and 0.3mm on gauge is hardly noticeable -  but would need to use a 3 point gauge to build his - as he suggested - industrial pointwork. I am fully aware that 00SF is 16.2mm and obviously a 16.5 gauge wouldnt work.

[dhjgreen]

My point about 16.5 3 point gauge was that as the OP was asking for suggestions I pointed out that IF he used 16.5 but built his points to a finer standard - not gauge - he would be able to use ready to lay plain track - much cheaper than separate chairs and 0.3mm on gauge is hardly noticeable -  but would need to use a 3 point gauge to build his - as he suggested - industrial pointwork. I am fully aware that 00SF is 16.2mm and obviously a 16.5 gauge wouldnt work.

Rambling now, have you read all the posts?

[martin_wynne]

My point about 16.5 3 point gauge was that as the OP was asking for suggestions I pointed out that IF he used 16.5 but built his points to a finer standard - not gauge ...

 

Which would mean widening the back-to-back on his wheels. After which 16.5mm flexi can't be used for sharp curves, it would need gauge-widening.

 

 

... he would be able to use ready to lay plain track

 

 

Most 00-SF users already do this, transitioning down to 16.2mm gauge for the pointwork. Using 16.5mm flexi with 00-SF also means that no additional gauge-widening is needed on sharp plain track curves (the back-to-backs are unchanged).

 

I appreciate that you are trying to help, but to do that you first need to understand what the OP has already sensibly decided.

 

Martin.

[SteveyDee68]

Been away for some time now, but had a few minutes spare, so wandered in to see how life and friends are on RMweb. Had to chuckle as it’s Groundhog Day and the same old arguments crop up on 00SF.

Everyone has a free choice in this world and I for one are very happy building pointwork to 00SF standards. Feel free to have a wander through my own thread where 00SF features heavily. I can’t promise to get back to you immediately, but if have any questions, I’ll be happy to talk about my own experience on the dark side.....

Having just finished 150 pages on the ET thread by the above, I would make the suggestion that the OP takes a look at Gordon's excellent work before rushing out to buy sleepers and plastic chairs! Gordon's handmade track using copperclad strip and solder looks pretty damn good to me, and when I eventually try building my own points I'll be following his methods like a dedicated Padawan! I can see the attraction of correctly modelled chairs on track, but I think Gordon's philosophy is the one I shall follow.

[Ian Fisher]

Hi Ralf,

 

Worth reading are two works by Ian Rice one the wild swan guide to finescale track published ages ago..

 

the an apporaich to copperclad again printed years and years ago but not as long ago...

 

Then the rather tasty work by the 2mm assocation which ok its 2mm but has many ways of have a think of how to do stuff...

 

As for gauges I have several peoples and its a case of using what feels right for the appplication, bit of a cop out but it is a case of trial and error as it where.

 

 

if you want a hand or to look at any of my gauages if you might be who I think you are I can happily drop them in....erm wednesday???? 

 

if you aint the person who i think you are well erm sorry!

 

Ian

[RexAshton]

Which would mean widening the back-to-back on his wheels. After which 16.5mm flexi can't be used for sharp curves, it would need gauge-widening.

 

 

 

 

Most 00-SF users already do this, transitioning down to 16.2mm gauge for the pointwork. Using 16.5mm flexi with 00-SF also means that no additional gauge-widening is needed on sharp plain track curves (the back-to-backs are unchanged).

 

I appreciate that you are trying to help, but to do that you first need to understand what the OP has already sensibly decided.

 

Martin.

 

Hi Martyn

Fair point. I wasn't aware that it was possible to do that. I'll stop 'Rambling' as someone else rather ungraciously said. Bye.

[hayfield]

Having just finished 150 pages on the ET thread by the above, I would make the suggestion that the OP takes a look at Gordon's excellent work before rushing out to buy sleepers and plastic chairs! Gordon's handmade track using copperclad strip and solder looks pretty damn good to me, and when I eventually try building my own points I'll be following his methods like a dedicated Padawan! I can see the attraction of correctly modelled chairs on track, but I think Gordon's philosophy is the one I shall follow.

 

 

Stevey Dee

 

Looking at the prices for copperclad strip at the CMRA the best price for 10 lengths was £16.95 which will make 2.5 to 3 turnouts, using the Exactoscale price list as a guide and using components rather than kits, the costs are now very similar

 

Totally accept for large layouts like Gordons viewed from a distance there may be little visual difference, for smaller layouts viewed close up there is a lot of difference.

 

There are benefits to both methods and the trick is to find the method that best suites the builders skill sets and visual appearance they are requiring. My point is not what is the best or easiest method, rather that the material costs are much the same. Which in the past was the governing factor