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Phoenix Yard (Including related builds and stock mods etc.)


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Hi John.

A tip for making your steps.

Even if they are tumble down ones.

 

Make them as square as possible. The angles as sharp as possible. I use thick card or balsa wood. Some use plastic card. 

 

Then cover it with brick paper. Prit stick is the best for most areas.

 

Then to get the, they have been there for a 100 years look use weathering. Chalks and minimal bits of weathering powder.

 

All the best 

Steve.

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8 minutes ago, SouthernBlue80s said:

Hi John.

A tip for making your steps.

Even if they are tumble down ones.

 

Make them as square as possible. The angles as sharp as possible. I use thick card or balsa wood. Some use plastic card. 

 

Then cover it with brick paper. Prit stick is the best for most areas.

 

Then to get the, they have been there for a 100 years look use weathering. Chalks and minimal bits of weathering powder.

 

All the best 

Steve.

That building project went nowhere. Useful trial, as lessons learnt and it helped me cope through lockdown, but proved to be a dead end. Not helped subsequently by my laser printer getting damaged, one of the rubber(?) covers on an internal roller has split, so it now prints colour images with a streak.

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After being sidetracked by other railway related, but not modelling activities, I have had another go at trying to solve a derailing problem with my newest wagons. They are the set of grain hoppers from the Bachman Whiskies Galore set

 

As with any testing regime the first issue is finding any common denominators. In order therefore:-

  1. is it the track? (A section with a reverse curve over points). - other than being difficult geometry that, ideally, I should have avoided in the track plan, probably not as my other rolling stock runs through OK. 
  2. Back to back on the axles/wheel sets - they were too tight. Tweaking to a tight fit on the Go part of my go/no gauge allowed them to run through almost, but not 100%, of the time as solo items. Possible action under (1) - consider adjusting the check rails as I did last year to resolve the Class 66 issue.??
  3. Longer wheelbase/small couplings - a possible cause?
    1. wheelbase - no problem with the identical length Lima/Hornby examples or the Hornby S&C 20T mineral wagon. (Noted though that they all have the largest of the 3 t/lock types fitted.)
    2. wheelbase - brake vans - the large t/l fitted versions all OK although the equivalent one with the smallest size t/lock type = some times also derails (Couplings/coupling mix identified as the possible/probable cause?
    3. couplings test - the short wheelbase wagons with the tiny couplings run through OK with other short wheelbase wagons, apparently irrespective, of coupling size mix. Staying coupled, and coupling up on curves, problematic.
    4. couplings test two - one l/wheelbase wagon with tiny t/ls between short wheelbase seems less prone to derailing but is not 100% reliable.
    5. couplings test three - two or more l/wheelbase mixed - derails every time. It looks like the hook is too small and the arm pushes the wagon  sideways and it derails. (Coupling lock as opposed to buffer lock).

 

Next step - I have some old style recycled large t/l's as spares and some medium size new t/ls. Fit a whiskies wagon with the medium size and see if it is the cure,

 

A personal view but I don't like the new small size t/ls for two reasons (a) they don't do the job as well as the old type and (2) on some vehicles with out the wider cross bar they jut out like a stick rammed into the end of the item.

 

Edited by john new
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This is a reminder note to me - link to the brickworks photo page https://www.yorkpress.co.uk/news/11558531.12-more-strensall-photos-1960s-1990s/

 

Annoyingly I took photos of the remains of it myself not long before it was demolished and also some of the Foss Navigation locks (now filled in). I can’t find them! A former brickworks is one option for the front right view blocker as in roughly the area of this fictitious extension of the DVLR there had been, in reality, two brickworks.

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On 27/03/2021 at 21:29, john new said:

After being sidetracked by other railway related, but not modelling activities, I have had another go at trying to solve a derailing problem with my newest wagons. They are the set of grain hoppers from the Bachman Whiskies Galore set

 

As with any testing regime the first issue is finding any common denominators. In order therefore:-

  1. is it the track? (A section with a reverse curve over points). - other than being difficult geometry that, ideally, I should have avoided in the track plan, probably not as my other rolling stock runs through OK. 
  2. Back to back on the axles/wheel sets - they were too tight. Tweaking to a tight fit on the Go part of my go/no gauge allowed them to run through almost, but not 100%, of the time as solo items. Possible action under (1) - consider adjusting the check rails as I did last year to resolve the Class 66 issue.??
  3. Longer wheelbase/small couplings - a possible cause?
    1. wheelbase - no problem with the identical length Lima/Hornby examples or the Hornby S&C 20T mineral wagon. (Noted though that they all have the largest of the 3 t/lock types fitted.)
    2. wheelbase - brake vans - the large t/l fitted versions all OK although the equivalent one with the smallest size t/lock type = some times also derails (Couplings/coupling mix identified as the possible/probable cause?
    3. couplings test - the short wheelbase wagons with the tiny couplings run through OK with other short wheelbase wagons, apparently irrespective, of coupling size mix. Staying coupled, and coupling up on curves, problematic.
    4. couplings test two - one l/wheelbase wagon with tiny t/ls between short wheelbase seems less prone to derailing but is not 100% reliable.
    5. couplings test three - two or more l/wheelbase mixed - derails every time. It looks like the hook is too small and the arm pushes the wagon  sideways and it derails. (Coupling lock as opposed to buffer lock).

 

Next step - I have some old style recycled large t/l's as spares and some medium size new t/ls. Fit a whiskies wagon with the medium size and see if it is the cure,

 

A personal view but I don't like the new small size t/ls for two reasons (a) they don't do the job as well as the old type and (2) on some vehicles with out the wider cross bar they jut out like a stick rammed into the end of the item.

 

 

Unfortunately, after another testing tweaking session today, I think modern stock with the couplings as supplied is incompatible with 2nd radius reverse curves. I only managed to get the Bachman Whisky wagon to run through when retro fitted with a pair of very old T/Hornby riveted metal couplings from the stock box. See also this thread querying what is the minimum radius for the new style titchy couplings - the pointwork on PY may have to be replaced.

 

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Having decided to live with the mistakes I made in the design despite some ensuing coupling problems, a bit of scenic technique dabbling today. I was testing coverage of acrylic paint versus  a pva/watercolour mix.

 

Annoyingly I worked out a good PVA base method about 30 years ago but have lost all my notes from the time. I think it must have been a PVA base with watercolour added over that later.

 

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Had the paints out to weather something else this afternoon so also did a bit to this wagon. Underframe on this side will get a bit more work to it. Watercolours over PVA as mentioned above.

 

cropped wagon IMG_1131.jpg

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7 hours ago, john new said:

Had the paints out to weather something else this afternoon so also did a bit to this wagon. Underframe on this side will get a bit more work to it. Watercolours over PVA as mentioned above.

 

cropped wagon IMG_1131.jpg

That looks effective John, I've not heard of that method. I have used cheap acrylic paint sets from pound shops on a few projects, they adhere straight to plastic very well and can be reworked for a reasonable time with damp cotton buds or a cloth.

 

Martyn.

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8 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

That looks effective John, I've not heard of that method. I have used cheap acrylic paint sets from pound shops on a few projects, they adhere straight to plastic very well and can be reworked for a reasonable time with damp cotton buds or a cloth.

 

Martyn.

I have an Acrylic set as you have mentioned; will be trying it soon; have had mixed success in the past as the hobby acrylics have worked well but some of the cheap one’s haven’t. What I liked when I tried the PVA method after using it on some track was the semi-matt finish and some texture in the paint. Also reversible with warm water if it goes wrong.

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After a period of disappointing posts recently in the various threads on delayed and cancelled pre-orders (Hattons/Hornby & Oxford) I had the good news yesterday that my DVLR Jim has entered the workshop queue at TMC and will, finally, be with me soon. 

 

Hopefully, the COVID crisis will resolve itself over the coming months too so that the places and people in Yorkshire my wife and I haven’t been able to visit for over a year now will be options. Examples include the family (obvious), DVLR/Murton, NYMR, Whitby, Rievaulx, NRM, the TMC shop etc., etc.

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On 02/06/2021 at 09:12, john new said:

After a period of disappointing posts recently in the various threads on delayed and cancelled pre-orders (Hattons/Hornby & Oxford) I had the good news yesterday that my DVLR Jim has entered the workshop queue at TMC and will, finally, be with me soon. 

 

Hopefully, the COVID crisis will resolve itself over the coming months too so that the places and people in Yorkshire my wife and I haven’t been able to visit for over a year now will be options. Examples include the family (obvious), DVLR/Murton, NYMR, Whitby, Rievaulx, NRM, the TMC shop etc., etc.

 

And has arrived. Hopefully, not too long a wait now for my BR livery J27. A bit large for the actual DVLR but rule 1 will cover it.

 

Nothing much else to report as have been busy with non-modelling SLS activities and decorating.

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On 05/07/2021 at 23:13, john new said:

 

And has arrived. Hopefully, not too long a wait now for my BR livery J27. A bit large for the actual DVLR but rule 1 will cover it.

 

Nothing much else to report as have been busy with non-modelling SLS activities and decorating.

No change since the above post other than the J27 arrived. Reason for this post is to set myself a findable marker for info’ on Spratt & Winkle couplings. Info from Wizard Models is -

 

1) what the minimum radius is they can couple and propel at? - 2ft for the 3mm version with the mounting plates; a bit less for the 4mm version

2) what is the difference between the Mk1 and Mk3 styles? - Mk3 has the extra “hook” so you can propel after uncoupling without them recoupling.

3) do they engage on curves? -  Yes.

 

The minimum was formerly 3ft, but that was an  old restriction before the modification with the addition of the mounting plates.

 

Hope this also helps others, especially the knowledge that the 3ft curves restriction is obsolete for current supplies.

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As the weather looks set fair for outdoor rattle can spraying for the next few days I am attacking the wrecked EFE bus I recently swapped out of my Grandson's toy box.  Hopefully, even if all the detailing takes ages, I can get the basic body shell paint on in the next few days. It is currently stewing overnight in a wash of paint stripper. Either paint has changed over time or stripper has been made less potent!

 

1912155931_smallerIMG_1245copy.jpg.2af3a6a073ba070f6473b86f3f57a933.jpg

 

2052521082_smallerIMG_1253copy.jpg.9216299979008f5cb6462746f29d2dc2.jpg

 

If all goes to plan this will emerge in bare metal ready to metamorphose from the original much battered CROSSVILLE CYMRU livery (above) into YORK-WEST YORKSHIRE colours of circa 1980.  (NB The York bus image below is a bought in slide - original photographer unknown.)

 

1383139856_smallerBoughtbusslldescans06.jpg.7243fcd2e37cdaedd4f6aec20b13d16a.jpg

 

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The paint stripping was successful,. Although it won't be an absolutely correct fix a strip of Code 80 rail is available to fill the above the windscreen gap. To fix it in place I will be trying the baking-powder & superglue method for the first time. For a windscreen replacement the packaging shape from a 2 x Scotch Egg package (Sainsburys) looks hopeful with the same shop's beef mince pack a back up option.

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On 25/09/2021 at 23:18, john new said:

The paint stripping was successful. Although it won't be an absolutely correct fix a strip of Code 80 rail is available to fill the above the windscreen gap. To fix it in place I will be trying the baking-powder & superglue method for the first time. For a windscreen replacement the packaging shape from a 2 x Scotch Egg package (Sainsburys) looks hopeful with the same shop's beef mince pack a back up option.

 

First attempt at the S-Glue/bicarb method, as seen demonstrated here on YouTube, was a mixed result. The bar around the cab seems to have worked, although the proof will be after it has cured for a lot longer and I try to de-flash and file it. Unfortunately the same cannot be said for the 3-pins at the back where I failed.  They had to be quickly removed as they were not aligning correctly due to my mistake of rushing and not supporting them. Will try again tomorrow or Tuesday with my more usual glue of choice - 10 min epoxy.

 

1832942529_smallerIMG_1272.jpg.d50295443749552c9ed47e884366fdf7.jpg

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On 21/09/2021 at 20:00, john new said:

As the weather looks set fair for outdoor rattle can spraying for the next few days I am attacking the wrecked EFE bus I recently swapped out of my Grandson's toy box. 

 

Either paint has changed over time or stripper has been made less potent!

 

smaller IMG_1245 copy.jpg

Hi John,

I think you might be right about today's strippers being less potent!:mocking_mini: 

 

I'm guessing some of the more noxious ingredients will have been removed from modern stuff. Nitromors used to work well on metal items, but I've not used any for years (I know someone who used it to strip a repainted plastic Lima O Gauge 4F loco; it didn't end too well, but did get salvaged eventually - once the plastic had hardened again from a horrible sticky mess!)

 

I like what you are doing with the bus though, it's great when you can make a "wreck" into something pleasing. I'm looking for a Glasgow bus in c.1970 condition, EFE have done a couple over the years but they are thin on the ground so I may have to take a similar approach to yours and repaint a Fleetline or another suitable type.

 

Martyn.

 

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Unfortunately the SG-bicarbonate option failed. Snapped at the join as soon as I started to file. As Baldrick says though “I have a plan”. 
 

14 Oct update: the back up plan has also not gone entirely to plan. The soldered lugs went on the rail fine, but the Araldite is not setting properly to hold them to the Mazak bus body casting.

 

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Unexpected courier drop today (surprised DPH were working on a Sunday) with a lucky bonus for the layout courtesy of winning one of the Warners prize draws. I guess the L/h back corner site on the layout earmarked for a either a low relief dairy or grain loader for the whisky hoppers will now sprout a cement batching plant instead! Thanks for the prize chaps.

 

 

Cement smaller IMG_1282 copy.jpg

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On 28/09/2021 at 10:01, john new said:

Unfortunately the SG-bicarbonate option failed. Snapped at the join as soon as I started to file. As Baldrick says though “I have a plan”. 
 

14 Oct update: the back up plan has also not gone entirely to plan. The soldered lugs went on the rail fine, but the Araldite is not setting properly to hold them to the Mazak bus body casting.

 

The rail across the front is still proving problematic; however, slow progress is being made. I tracked down some of the chequer plate style plastic package banding (I now have about 50years worth of supply!!) and although it is not as good as an etch fret would have been the vents are now on. About half-way between a thin etch (ideal) and the original transfer overlay so I think an improvement. Next step = spraying. I have also managed to get the worst play-wear distortion out of the upper deck back window and the front nearside door pillar.

 

 

219855064_CompositebusfixIMG_1287to9.jpg.12d8cdcb48a1d7077d9fe668f9cd566c.jpg

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  • john new changed the title to Phoenix Yard (Including related builds and stock mods etc.)
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Taking advantage today of the sun and drop in wind speed (together with a lull in the 12 in to 1 foot decorating work while the current coat of paint is drying) enabled a quick blast on the bus with primer. Hopefully, tomorrow afternoon will be as dry as is forecast and I can  get the red on. Surprising what you can use a wheelie bin for between collections!

 

1611832505_ImpromptuspraystandIMG_1290.jpg.6d1c121f1cdc9eb68b3edcebbd731bc3.jpg

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And on with the red. BMW Zinfandel Red which I had in stock from another job has possibly gone on too dark but near enough for this skill re-learning exercise. Given the lighter tone over the masking tape perhaps it should have been applied over a white primer, not the grey I had. All part of the learning curve.

 

2083903642_redmaskedIMG_1296.jpg.ece0ac3a143ba7c5f2b0b4d1e242bebb.jpg

 

Still to come........

  • Add the white band
  • Weather the wheel arches
  • Weather the underneath
  • Radiator grill strips
  • Paint the interior (add driver & pax ???)
  • Paint in lights and other details
  • Add an as close as possible replacement windscreen.
  • Reassemble.
  • Produce some bespoke waterslide transfers for-
    • YORK-WEST YORKSHIRE
    • Route blinds
    • Adverts? My 1977 photo of several buses outside the station shows adverts on the Y-WY fleet were variable.
    • Number plates
    • Miscellaneous notices
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Limited activity on the modelling front recently but Hardwicke has now arrived for running the odd special as it did. Also, although not prototypical for the line, I couldn’t resist a pre-order for Bellerophon, hopefully, next year’s Christmas present.

 

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