New to bashing coaches - essential tools

[sub39h]

Hi guys,

 

I plan on using 2 Hornby Mk2E BSOs and 2 Mk2E FOs to make 2 BFKs and a Mk2D TSO. What’s the best way to get a fine cut between the roof and body and body segments to allow me to do this please? I’ve never bashed coaches before.

 

Thanks!

['CHARD]

Blowtorch 

[Londontram]

A good set square is esential and a good steady base I have a wooden base with a wooden block that I can push the coach up against to cut down the amount of movement as you cut.

Get a fine razor saw and try to cut down door lines its a lot easier to hide than a cut in the middle of a panel.

 

I tend to cut an extra mm or so I can then using a hard sanding block sand it to where I want it never try and cut on the point you want to join as the saw will take material off either side of the cut lines making a gap.

I have staggered cuts which seems to draw the eye less than a straight cut.

It might be worth getting some cheap car boot sale coaches to practice on first.

I seldom rely on a face to face butt joint but try to add some plasticard to the back to "bridge" a join.

Get a good quality filler.

 

Other may be able to add there own ideas but these are some of the methods that have worked for me, good luck and enjoy.

Edited January 15, 2019 by Londontram

[Londontram]

Blowtorch

Well done, someone comes on asking for advice which is the main mantra of this site and all you can say is "Blow torch"

Edited January 15, 2019 by Londontram

[Ben Alder]

A piercing saw can give a clean cut.

[Catkins]

Hi guys,

 

I plan on using 2 Hornby Mk2E BSOs and 2 Mk2E FOs to make 2 BFKs and a Mk2D TSO. What’s the best way to get a fine cut between the roof and body and body segments to allow me to do this please? I’ve never bashed coaches before.

 

Thanks!

 

Looking at the coaches you are starting with, i wouldn't even bother cutting the bodies. depending on the number for the TSO, you could just use the two seating halves from the BSOs (some TSOs were refurbished and had airline seating installed - they got used on the MML and latterly on the GEML).

To make the BFK interiors, I would suggest using the two "luggage cage" halves and scratchbuild the seating compartments.

[CloggyDog]

For a super-fine cut (with little wastage) I can highly recommend the JLC Razor Saw - not cheap, but well worth the expense.

 

I've used it to cut and shut coaches and dmu bodies - I generally use a small engineers square, scalpel and masking tape to mark out my cuts and then let the saw do the work with only light downward force. 

[Catkins]

Hi Sub39H
 

you might find this link useful - http://www.barrowmoremrg.co.uk/BRBDocuments/Diagram_Book_200_for_issue.pdf

the Mk 2D BFK is diagram AB106, on pg 56.

the Mk 2D TSO is diagram AC209 on pg 86

 

I hope that helps a bit.

[darrel]

One tip not mentioned above would be to place a strip of masking tape along the line you want to cut. It will act as a guide for you. Again uses razor saw and go slowly.

[Phil Bullock]

Another vote for razor saw

 

Phil

[Clive Mortimore]

I very rarely use a saw of any type, scalpel blade in a craft knife handle. A set of clean files, a file card. Filler and emery paper.

 

No matter how fine a saw is its cut will always be wider than the blade. The score and snap method of cutting coach sides gives less of a gap to fill.

 

No matter what method you use to cut with use the bottom of the windows as your datum. The bottom of the coach doesn't line up or if there is a gap on the cant rail line these can be sorted. If the windows are all askew they remain that way.

[Poor Old Bruce]

If you have just the body sides to cut up, rather than a whole coach with sides and floor as one piece, a small mitre block (Eileen's Emporium and some DIY shops among others) is useful. The slots will take the width of a hacksaw blade (some blocks fit Junior blades, others seem to be made for full size blades. These will guide you to a (reasonably) square cut.

[MJI]

Will be a bit messy to do 2D TSO from 2 BSO halves, I have done 2E TSO from Airfix BSOs

 

But a few tips

 

Measure a lot.

 

Use finest blade possible.

 

Filler is not good as can be soft or not sticky to the body shell

 

If you have a gap use plastic card first, if rough join but no real gap file a groove and push a square section in then sand when set.

 

Take your time.

 

If you damage the sides be prepared to use Extreme etching window frames.

 

I used them anyway so did not worry.

[Prometheus]

Well done, someone comes on asking for advice which is the main mantra of this site and all you can say is "Blow torch"

 

I think, in fairness, it was posted in  humour.

 

Anyway, all of the above plus various grades of very fine emery paper, Milliput filler and I find good quality emery [nail] boards very helpful also. I'd add an aerosol of Halford's gray primer too, it is invaluable for revealing imperfections. Finally, patience. Lots of it!

 

Tony

[sub39h]

Thank you all for your help and guidance. Lots of useful hints and tips here! Ok so there are a few pieces of kit I need to invest in but nothing too taxing. I’ll defo practice on a couple of scrap coaches first to see what happens. Wish me luck!

[Nile]

For a super-fine cut (with little wastage) I can highly recommend the JLC Razor Saw - not cheap, but well worth the expense.

 

I've used it to cut and shut coaches and dmu bodies - I generally use a small engineers square, scalpel and masking tape to mark out my cuts and then let the saw do the work with only light downward force. 

 

 

One tip not mentioned above would be to place a strip of masking tape along the line you want to cut. It will act as a guide for you. Again uses razor saw and go slowly.

 

Oh yes it was ! (it's still panto season).

[Gibbo675]

Hi sub39h,

 

If you cut a panel short work out by how much and then simply glue a strip of plasticard onto on of the ends of the panel, wait until the glue has fully cured and then pare back and file flush. When you then reassemble the panels into a full side you should, if you do your sums right, have everything lined up and the right length.

 

Gibbo.

[Clive Mortimore]

Thanks for starting this thread as I have the same plan using Airfix 2ds! One point is that the entire roof of the FO can be used, and a bit of cutting of the BSO body sides.

Has nobody mentioned the use of a cutting jig?

 

JF

 

If you have just the body sides to cut up, rather than a whole coach with sides and floor as one piece, a small mitre block (Eileen's Emporium and some DIY shops among others) is useful. The slots will take the width of a hacksaw blade (some blocks fit Junior blades, others seem to be made for full size blades. These will guide you to a (reasonably) square cut.

Hi JF

 

Poor Old Bruce has mentioned a mitre block, which some people find useful as a cutting jig. 

[MJI]

My 2D DBFs use FO roof and part sides and I cut off the brake bits from a BSO on the roof and filed and sanded to size. Managed all cuts with no filler, not even needed the file and fill square section.

 

I worked out dimensions from pictures, and the plans in Mark 2 book.

 

But one thing I have trouble finding are TSOs, plenty of BSO FO, but no TSOs, still one short for two sets, may have to 2xBSO one