RMweb Premium Brit70053 Posted June 21, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2021 Thanks Paul2001, Not being on Twitter I would have remained ignorant of that, that is reassuring and my patience will be applied until there is word of the BR Early Crest version. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Lamb Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Rail-Online said: I was looking at allocations in Yeadon and had not realised there were so many allocated to March/Peterborough from about 1926. They went back home after two or three years, no doubt replaced by surplus RODs bought for pennies from the Government. I wonder if they worked all the way to Temple Mills from Whitemoor on coal trains, or just in a northerly direction? Tony According to The Green Book they worked mineral trains to London and were maintained at Stratford. Some even had the odd spacing of the letters as used by Stratford. Bernard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) For 1926-8 you'd need a model in early LNER livery, number on tender and small LNER letters. The "green book" also says that whilst the loaned saturated locos (as offered now in model form) did return to the NE area quickly, a dozen of the later-built superheater J27s (long smokeboxes and Ross pop safety valves not like the model) were long term residents of the Southern area of the LNER, from late 1926 until the early years of WW2. Edited June 21, 2021 by gr.king Spelling mistake! 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidmouth Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 On 19/06/2021 at 20:54, Les1952 said: Funny how photos can decieve. The second one makes the tender look distinctly nose-down and wedge shaped- which is not the case as can be clearly seen from the other two views of the tender side. I wonder how many of the model's critics have been deceived by photo angles making things look wrong which many not be. I look forward to getting a 65817. Les I was going to comment that proportionally it didn't look right in the Hattons images , then I saw @Market65's post and particularly the slightly elevated front 3/4 looks very good. BR late crest one and even I could twitch 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_sterling Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 Well mine arrived this afternoon, and will be making a swift trip back to Sheffield. Snapped tender pin. Wiper pickups were embedded into the front driving wheel spokes too. Once straightened out, it ran reasonably though unspectacular compared to most modern chassis. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 2 hours ago, Paul_sterling said: Well mine arrived this afternoon, and will be making a swift trip back to Sheffield. Snapped tender pin. Wiper pickups were embedded into the front driving wheel spokes too. Once straightened out, it ran reasonably though unspectacular compared to most modern chassis. Extract from Courier's manual - "If the item arrives undamaged make sure you kick the next one harder....." Les 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_sterling Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 3 hours ago, Les1952 said: Extract from Courier's manual - "If the item arrives undamaged make sure you kick the next one harder....." Les Indeed. Though there wasn't a single mark or dent on the box. Now if that's the courier, they've got REAL talent. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted June 25, 2021 Share Posted June 25, 2021 7 hours ago, Paul_sterling said: Indeed. Though there wasn't a single mark or dent on the box. Now if that's the courier, they've got REAL talent. Having shown physics students video footage of the vibration level inside shipping containers on the high seas I am often surprised that anything arrives intact. Nice footage of things disassembling themselves when subjected to certain frequencies over a period of several weeks. Your drawbar pin is shock damage- if the box isn't dented it sounds as if it was dropped in a container. Les 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_sterling Posted June 25, 2021 Share Posted June 25, 2021 Potentially yes, though given its very spindly nature, I'm not ruling out it being snapped as it went in the box. Fully understand where you are coming from with persistent resonance damage, but admittedly, I would expect it to need some fairly low temperatures and high frequency in order to smash plastic, and the actual breakage tallies in more with an instantaneous shock load then failure due to resonance. I fed back to someone on Facebook who I believe is part of Oxford Rail, that the root of the spindle lacks a decent radius on it, which is only going to exasperate the vulnerability of such a design. For my part, I find manufacturers obsessions with having loco and tender permanently coupled baffling, it just invites vulnerability. Yes most tender locos now have wires bridging the gap, but there is often enough flex in that to have loco and tender separate when required as per Bachmann C class. The J27 joint is far too tight and rigid. Paul 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaymzHatstand Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 I watched Sam's Trains review yesterday, not really for the editorial content, or the carpet running, but his close up images are usually pretty good. He did have an issue with the crankpins working loose when it was running in. I don't know if that is an isolated incident or something for us to look out for. I certainly do like the look of what I've seen thus far, definitely an improvement on the earlier samples (which is what they're for) so I dare say it won't be too long until one joins my fleet. Cheers J 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted June 28, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 hour ago, JaymzHatstand said: ... so I dare say it won't be too long until one joins my fleet. Cheers J Looking forward to seeing your full disassembly 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaymzHatstand Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 21 minutes ago, Flying Pig said: Looking forward to seeing your full disassembly If no-one beats me to it, I dare say I'll do something of the sort Cheers J 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_sterling Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 I was surprised looking under the loco how slim the motor / chassis pocket is, this makes me think they are considering J25 in the mix at some point, I certainly am to be fair. I hit a challenge with the J21/N9/N10 work that the LMS jinty couldn't be used for the J25 due to its wide motor, but the J27 looks like it might yield possibilities, I'll have to check when the replacement arrives. Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 38 minutes ago, Paul_sterling said: I was surprised looking under the loco how slim the motor / chassis pocket is, this makes me think they are considering J25 in the mix at some point, I'd imagine (always a bad idea for me to use imagination) it' a bog standard Oxford-rail set up than can be used across their range. This is the Janus setup. It will be interesting to see if they have stuck with a PTC fuse on the circuit board? I see Rails & Hattons are saying the J27 has a 21 pin DCC connector. I thought is would have been 8 pin. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dominion Posted June 28, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2021 Attached photo of the underside of the loco with the keeper plate off, in case helpful for anyone. I wanted to adjust the contacts. Tom 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 44 minutes ago, Dominion said: loco with the keeper plate off Hmmmm. Very Hornby'esque Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete55 Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 52 minutes ago, Dominion said: Attached photo of the underside of the loco with the keeper plate off, in case helpful for anyone. I wanted to adjust the contacts. Tom Thanks for that very useful picture, any chance of a similar one of the tender chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dominion Posted June 28, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2021 Sorry, I didn’t think of taking a picture when that was off. It has wheel pick ups for the front two wheel sets. Not permanently wired, it uses small spring contacts that touch the keeper plate contacts once reassembled. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 1 hour ago, pete55 said: Thanks for that very useful picture, any chance of a similar one of the tender chassis? Bet it's identical to Hornby, Pete. I wonder if the sideframes are separate a la K1 & Q6? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 I do like the look of everything I have seen so far. The chimney falling off in Sam's video saves some time for people to change to the Bradwell version, though it might require a bit of filling in of the recess. I am curious if it would be possible to convert this to P4... looks like 2mm axles. The current unlined version has grown on me... I was going to go for the lined version. There seems to be no rumours regarding the next round of deliveries of the sound and other versions... Mr Hattons says in the next quarter! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete55 Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 9 hours ago, Porcy Mane said: Bet it's identical to Hornby, Pete. I wonder if the sideframes are separate a la K1 & Q6? Construction wise it will be I would think......but has it got silly 1.5mm axles?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted June 29, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2021 Would anyone who has bought the model and has a Vernier mind measuring the distance between the cab side windows (inside the frames), and also the width (again inside the frames) of the individual side windows? Thank you! I'm guessing that this model has Hornby's usual anti-finescale set-up, with the bottom half of the boiler attached to the chassis, meaning that the boiler bottom has to be replaced when a replacement chassis is fitted. Can anyone confirm? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 (edited) 35 minutes ago, Daddyman said: I'm guessing that this model has Hornby's usual anti-finescale set-up, with the bottom half of the boiler attached to the chassis, meaning that the boiler bottom has to be replaced when a replacement chassis is fitted. Can anyone confirm? Yup! and no access holes in the rear steps or was that a later modification with the J27's? Edited June 29, 2021 by Porcy Mane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted June 29, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2021 52 minutes ago, Porcy Mane said: Yup! and no access holes in the rear steps or was that a later modification with the J27's? Later, yes, when the injectors were moved to behind the steps. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted June 29, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Daddyman said: Would anyone who has bought the model and has a Vernier mind measuring the distance between the cab side windows (inside the frames), and also the width (again inside the frames) of the individual side windows? Thank you! I think this was raised when the CAD was published and the cabside still looks wrong to my eye. I suspect that the windows are just too small: the pillar between them certainly seems too wide. Props to @Daddyman for requesting actual measurements, though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now