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Oxford Rail announce J27 at Toy Fair


Andy Y
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7 minutes ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

You'll not be popular with the fitters. All them brake blocks to change and all them iron filings will screw up the motor, shirley?

 

Brakes? we're on bonus, we don't use brakes...

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9 minutes ago, Worsdell forever said:

Safety valve cover now polished. 

 

Did you do the tender cock at the same time?

 

Ya need to shove some noggins of 2mm styrene rod in them wheel centres.

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4 minutes ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

Did you do the tender cock at the same time?

 

No, but I have now... 

20210630_213515.jpg.2a328db21a3e7ce943cdb6dbdcc7d80b.jpg

 

 

4 minutes ago, Porcy Mane said:

Ya need to shove some noggins of 2mm styrene rod in them wheel centres.

 

They will get filled eventually. 

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This looks a bloody good loco for around £90 and one much needed for us of a  more north easterly religion, as distinct from that one to be found at the other end of England.

 

Can I ask two questions on the EM conversion please - 

1. how deep will that noggin have to be to cover the 'hole' in the wheel center ?  (which really means how much of the wheel is left on the axle when you move the wheels out)

2. what size axles have Oxford used?  Are they the 2mm suggested in an earlier post on the noggins? (in case I decide to use Markits wheels instead).

 

Does anyone know if Oxford are going to do the other variations of P3/J27 - for example boiler/dome/safety valve/superheated/smokebox/lubrication/tender coal rails/tender chassis (correct wheels for saturated engines!).

 

Glad I have a copy of Willie Yeadon's volume 47B 

 

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9 minutes ago, FiftyFourA said:

how deep will that noggin have to be to cover the 'hole' in the wheel center ?

 

Now lets see;

 

00 back to back  14.5 mm

EM back to back  16.5 mm

 

Equals 1mm per side.   All dimensions are approx.

 

(I didn't even need a calculator for that!).

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14 minutes ago, FiftyFourA said:

Does anyone know if Oxford are going to do the other variations of P3/J27 - for example boiler/dome/safety valve/superheated/smokebox/lubrication/tender coal rails/tender chassis (correct wheels for saturated engines!).

 

 

Ermmmmmmm. You are taking the rise, aren't you?

 

If not, here's a good place to start.

 

 

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Well no, I am NOT taking the rise actually.  I normally model in 7mm gauge and 5" gauge so I do not keep abreast of 4mm as I only 'dabble' in this particular scale  and while I was aware that Oxford were working on a J27 I was not aware how far advanced it was never mind it being 'out' already.

 

I am very sorry that I am not 'in the loop'  and humbly apologise for my ignorance.

 

Rest assured, I will not be bothering you, or anyone else, on this forum again.

 

I just wonder though, what anyone new to the hobby will think of such a condescending reply.

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9 minutes ago, FiftyFourA said:

I am very sorry that I am not 'in the loop'

 

Don't take offence, it being normal practice on forums to have a cursory look through long threads for basic answers before jumping in with both boots.

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21 hours ago, Worsdell forever said:

Safety valve cover now polished. 

I wondered if you were going to do that! 

 

Are you able to get the front step brace off at all?

 

And what about the coal plates - am I right in thinking they should be the same height as the coal rails? I hadn't noticed how ropey the ends of OR's coal rails are - there should be a reverse curve at the end. There's a lot of talk about this being a £90 model, but does getting things wrong allow OR to keep the price down? 

 

You need wrist-breaker toolboxes too. 

 

I know we've talked about this before, but I still think you need to change the cab roof outer layer. Surely an easy enough job? - sand all the detail off and add the batons. 

 

Not sure if it's a trick of the photo, but it looks like you've achieved the original wedge-shaped front to the smokebox (right angle where wrapper meets front). Or did OR mix 1900s wedge front with 1940s rivets? 

 

2mm plastic ends to the axles no good: that would suggest that the real thing had 6" axles. What you need instead are plastic (or better metal) 3mm or 1/8th discs of 5 thou (metal easier to shape) stuck over the wheel centres. 

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11 minutes ago, Daddyman said:

2mm plastic ends to the axles no good: that would suggest that the real thing had 6" axles. What you need instead are plastic (or better metal) 3mm or 1/8th discs of 5 thou (metal easier to shape) stuck over the wheel centres. 

...with dimples on

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10 hours ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

Don't take offence, it being normal practice on forums to have a cursory look through long threads for basic answers before jumping in with both boots.

Unless someone is grossly offensive, I don’t mind “having my intelligence insulted”. If I’m told something I already know, no harm done. If I were to get prickly, I might not be told something which I didn’t know. It’s notorious in text communication that the tone can be difficult to judge. The response you gave included a link and was, as I read it, helpful.

 

If FiftyFourA is still around, Oxford has also announced a J26, which may or may not be information sought.

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4 hours ago, Daddyman said:

2mm plastic ends to the axles no good: that would suggest that the real thing had 6" axles. What you need instead are plastic (or better metal) 3mm or 1/8th discs of 5 thou (metal easier to shape) stuck over the wheel centres. 

 

There are, or used to be, etched covers for Romford axlenuts which might be suitable.  Google finds them under 247 Developments, but I don't know whether that is a live supplier.

 

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5 hours ago, Axlebox said:

...with dimples on

 

I shall henceforth call them, "Kirk Douglas's" or maybe just plain old Doug's

 

18 minutes ago, Flying Pig said:

There are, or used to be, etched covers for Romford axlenuts which might be suitable. 

 

Markits do/did a similar thing.  I think they were available with different crank throws.

 

One I prepared earlier.

 

Bmann03-04Mdl-ing-099-EditSm.jpg.068d0385f392c3c9548cc7b4b46e24ef.jpg

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Less than glowing review in this months Hornby magazine. I say this because its rare (unique?!) for Hornby mag  to say anything that might be deemed critical. Problems included poor pick ups, derailing when the fall plate fell into the void twixt cab and tender (presumably closer coupling would fix this?) and 'built down to a price; leading to over simplified detailing (lack of lubricators on the running plate cited). 

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21 minutes ago, MikeParkin65 said:

Less than glowing review in this months Hornby magazine. I say this because its rare (unique?!) for Hornby mag  to say anything that might be deemed critical. Problems included poor pick ups, derailing when the fall plate fell into the void twixt cab and tender (presumably closer coupling would fix this?) and 'built down to a price; leading to over simplified detailing (lack of lubricators on the running plate cited). 

 

Unusually critical indeed. 

 

They may have missed the point though. The model is/could be costed down because it is cheap, it's priced near to railroad locos. 

 

The fall plate does make sense that it can cause an issue if widely spaced, a blob of blu tac will keep it up though if its going to spend its life on 2nd rad. 

 

The pickups though, that is just how I found them to be as well, a mangled mess. 

 

Paul

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18 hours ago, MikeParkin65 said:

Less than glowing review in this months Hornby magazine. I say this because its rare (unique?!) for Hornby mag  to say anything that might be deemed critical. Problems included poor pick ups, derailing when the fall plate fell into the void twixt cab and tender (presumably closer coupling would fix this?) and 'built down to a price; leading to over simplified detailing (lack of lubricators on the running plate cited). 

Indeed Mike, hardly confidence inspiring to say the least and as you quite rightly comment, rare for Hornby magazine to be so critical.

I'm not a NE modeller as a rule, but I did think about purchasing a J27.

I recently purchased a OR N7 which is excellent.

Why on earth couldn't this be produced to the same standard?

Too many gremlins/compromises for my liking, which is a pity !

Mark

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19 hours ago, Worsdell forever said:

 

No, but I have now... 

20210630_213515.jpg.2a328db21a3e7ce943cdb6dbdcc7d80b.jpg

 

 

 

They will get filled eventually. 

Hi,

     Nice work, will the moulded Safety valve come off ?, a Dave Bradwell Casting version would look superb !!.

 

     Where did you source the workplates from please ?.

 

Mick

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29 minutes ago, micklner said:

Hi,

     Nice work, will the moulded Safety valve come off ?, a Dave Bradwell Casting version would look superb !!.

I think it would come off but you'll have a large hole in the firebox top as the boiler fittings are set into rather than sat on top of the boiler

 

29 minutes ago, micklner said:

     Where did you source the workplates from please ?.

 

Mick

 

The number plates on the cab sides are Fox B17 plates, unfortunately they don't sell them separately. The ones on the front splasher/sandbox is the North British Loco worksplate, not sure where it's from but it had more 'text' on it than the numberplate just as the NB works plate does. 

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14 hours ago, Porcy Mane said:

 

I shall henceforth call them, "Kirk Douglas's" or maybe just plain old Doug's

 

 

There is nothing Plain or Old about Dougs.... :D

 

 

 

 

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Anyone that wants a J27 should not be put off by the comments on contacts. I found them easy to work on and adjust. They are captive to the keeper plates on both the tender and the loco, so they come off easily with the keeper plates, and more importantly fit back on easily.
I posted a photo of the loco ones a little earlier.
Some were not adjusted well but I thought the assembly was well designed. 

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