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New to 7mm Scale, Many Questions!


HereticUK
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I'll add agreement that getting Parkside wagons flat is not difficult. One annoying item I've found is that sometimes the holes for the bearings in the axleboxes are not all molded in the same spot, so installing them without modification can add some rocking. Like John, I leave the axleboxes free, though some axleboxes on the worst offenders have required shimming glued to the top of the box as doilum suggests.

 

Further exemplifying "Everyone has their preferences", I'll build the body first, then do the underbody, assemble the buffers and couplings, then install those. Buffers and couplings have been spray painted with the rest of the wagon; I only leave wheels separate where possible.

 

Good luck!

-Zach

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A further comment about wheels.  I like to do these first.  I have started using a Sharpie to blacken the shiny rims, backs and axles.  You can chemically blacken these but gun blue and similar products are pretty expensive and can be hard to find locally.  After blackening, I paint the wheels with a homemade black, rust, earth concoction.  Wheels on real stock are never black.

 

When building the underframe, I have learned to paint some areas black as I go, because it is hard to get the brush into cramped spaces.  This has to be balanced with leaving areas that get things glued on bare.

 

John

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  • 6 months later...

That's a good idea! How do I do that?

 

EDIT: Another question. I am trying to find more information and pictures about Llanbradach colliery and the railways around it. Can anyone recommend any books?

Edited by HereticUK
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  • HereticUK changed the title to New to 7mm Scale, Many Questions!
3 hours ago, HereticUK said:

Hi everyone! Back with another question. Does anyone know if anyone produces kits for collieries and their buildings? I can't seem to find anything anywhere in Google (at least, not in 7mm scale).

Time to search through Google images for collieries making notes and sketches of what you like. Unless you have a sports hall to fill you will have to be pretty selective in your choice of building. In one sense they can be pretty generic but with a closer eye each one is absolutely unique. A bit like modellers I suppose.

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1 hour ago, doilum said:

Time to search through Google images for collieries making notes and sketches of what you like. Unless you have a sports hall to fill you will have to be pretty selective in your choice of building. In one sense they can be pretty generic but with a closer eye each one is absolutely unique. A bit like modellers I suppose.

In other words, I will have to scratch-build some of the buildings? That's going to be a real task for someone with no modelling skill at all... 

 

Thank you for the suggestion though! I can always look at more well-documented collieries in Google Images.

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25 minutes ago, HereticUK said:

Another question. I am trying to find more information and pictures about Llanbradach colliery and the railways around it. Can anyone recommend any books?

 

 

Search and join

"The collieries of wales"

on fbook

 

It's got alot of info on Welsh mines etc.

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1 hour ago, HereticUK said:

In other words, I will have to scratch-build some of the buildings? That's going to be a real task for someone with no modelling skill at all... 

 

Thank you for the suggestion though! I can always look at more well-documented collieries in Google Images.

If you look on my Frydale thread most of the colliery is on the backscene. This was my simple decoupage approach to copy, cut and paste. It really depends on which part of colliery operation you want to model. Unless you have that sports hall and a lottery winner's budget.......

 

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1 hour ago, Piemanlarger said:

 

 

Search and join

"The collieries of wales"

on fbook

 

It's got alot of info on Welsh mines etc.

Thank you! I have asked to join, and I have already found some interesting photographs there.

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1 minute ago, doilum said:

If you look on my Frydale thread most of the colliery is on the backscene. This was my simple decoupage approach to copy, cut and paste. It really depends on which part of colliery operation you want to model. Unless you have that sports hall and a lottery winner's budget.......

 

Well, no, I do not have those resources. However, I would like to create something which people can look at and say "Yes, that is definitely reminiscent of [insert place here]". Not necessarily an exact copy, but something the essence of these locations.

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4 minutes ago, HereticUK said:

Well, no, I do not have those resources. However, I would like to create something which people can look at and say "Yes, that is definitely reminiscent of [insert place here]". Not necessarily an exact copy, but something the essence of these locations.

Definitely not one to put anyone off colliery modelling. It is surprising just how large most collieries were especially the "modern" deep mines sunk in the late 19th century. It is possible to find examples of earlier smaller operations that somehow hung on into the 1960s. 

There are several outstanding attempts at colliery modelling under the Standard Gauge Industrial Railway section. I recall a 2mm FS thread where the winding wheels or sheaves were discussed at some length but cannot remember the name!

Also recall ( I think it was Mike Williams once of Agenoria ) a prototype etched brass headgear on display at York. Beautifully modelled it was the size of an HGV axle stand. If you search for the National Coalmining Museum of Yorkshire at Caphouse you will find modeller friendly sized headgear.

When I built Houghton Street the colliery is off stage and I concentrated on the headshunt that cut through the terraced housing of the pit village.

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  • 7 months later...

Ah, once again back to this topic for more questions!

 

I have been considering having a crack at making my own track and points. I have found Greenwood Model Railway Products who appear to offer beginner-friendly point kits. However (and this isn't the first time this question has been elicited from me), I have noticed that there is a choice of "type" which comes down to radius selections etc. I honestly have absolutely no idea about what these mean and I can't seem to find any simple guides or explanations for these random numbers and letters. Could anybody explain the notations for turnout radii in plain English for me?

 

In other words, wold it be possible to explain the difference between A4.5, A5, A5.5, A6, B6, B6.6, B7 and B8?

Edited by HereticUK
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I made all but one turnout for my layout.  I used Peco templates of their standard turnouts.  My goal wasn't to make custom turnouts but to save money.

 

After several false starts, my construction method evolved into the use of Peco slide and running chairs and wooden timbers from Intentio.  You will need some proper MEK, from a hardware store. (In other threads, I got the impression that the "MEK" available in model shops is dumbed down).

 

The Greenwood kits look good but I haven't gotten around to building any (yet).

 

I'm no expert on turnout terminology, A5 is similar to the Peco small radius turnout.  The length and radius get larger as you go up.  I expect someone with more knowledge will provide a more sensible explanation.

 

John

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21 hours ago, HereticUK said:

Ah, once again back to this topic for more questions!

 

I have been considering having a crack at making my own track and points. I have found Greenwood Model Railway Products who appear to offer beginner-friendly point kits. However (and this isn't the first time this question has been elicited from me), I have noticed that there is a choice of "type" which comes down to radius selections etc. I honestly have absolutely no idea about what these mean and I can't seem to find any simple guides or explanations for these random numbers and letters. Could anybody explain the notations for turnout radii in plain English for me?

 

In other words, wold it be possible to explain the difference between A4.5, A5, A5.5, A6, B6, B6.6, B7 and B8?

 

A turnout is described by a letter and a number.

 

The letter effectively relates to the length of the point blades (the switch). A is short and probably best left for shorter locos and goods yards for example. B is longer and what most folk use. C is longer still and, for model railway use look best on higher speed mainline crossings.

 

The number relates to the angle the two lines diverge at (the crossing). With a 5 being 1 in 5, 6 being 1 in 6 etc. Most folk seem to go for a 6 as a starting point. So a B6 is a very common turnout in model railways.  The sort of mixes you use for a balanced looking turnout are A5, B6 and C8. 

 

Note that turnouts built to the A5 B6 plans etc are very different to the  geometry of Peco turnouts (where the diverge angle is the same).  With Peco you can mix the small, medium and long radius versions in a crossover and the through routes stay parallel. 

 

If you mixed a B6 with a B8 in a crossover, the through routes would not be parallel as the diverge angles are different. You will however get parallel through routes from a B6 and A6 mix as the angles are the same. 

 

In terms of length a B6 is around 490mm in 7mm. 

 

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A Google search for " A5 turnout" will take you to a Scalefour forum discussion that appears to be most informative.

For the record, Frydale used recycled Peco crippled points picked up at Telford for around 10 or 15 pounds.

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