Largest Baseboard that can easily be moved?

[WishIHadAName]

Whats the largest baseboard that can be moved by kne person? Could a 7’ x 1’6” baseboard ve made so it can be moved around the house on my own?

[ChrisH-UK]

I think this is one of those "it depends" questions. In this case on your physical abilities, the logistics of your house, (doorways and corners, changes in levels) can you mount the board on a rolling frame and move it that way or do plan to lift and carry a decorated baseboard.

 

Chris H

[meil]

4 X 2

[MartynJPearson]

This is probably a "how long is a piece of string?" question as there are a huge number of factors as to whether boards would be manageable.

 

* Ability / mobility of the person doing the shifting

* Size of the board compared to the surrounding space (door frames, loft hatches, car boots etc)

* Balance of the board (longer boards will be less manageable), if weight is not even, tipping is more likely

* Construction - different materials has a huge impact of the weight

 

Bear in mind as well that the board is only the start of things, by the time scenery, track, wiring etc has been added the weight will grow even more.

Edited January 22, 2019 by MartynJPearson

[brigo]

My first N gauge layout was on a board about 7' by 15". Softwood frame of 3" x 1" with a chipboard top. I was in my 20's then and moving it was not really a problem. Used to store it on end and the only thing I had to watch was not damaging the ceiling when I lifted it up.

 

Brian

[Dunsignalling]

It's not so much what you can physically move around; a bare baseboard of the size you mention should be manageable for many.

 

Moving such a board once it's covered with track, scenery and buildings is a very different matter. Quite apart from the fact it will weigh much more, there is also the issue of potentially damaging the layout whilst moving it. You will be much more restricted as to where you can grab hold of it. 

 

I've been involved in a group layout that has boards larger than that (8' x 2', and five of them fitted into a wheeled rack for transport) but we always had half a dozen guys to shift them and a tail-lift truck to transport the beast.

 

If I were making something 7' x 1'6" for home use, I'd definitely make it in two halves.

 

John

Edited January 22, 2019 by Dunsignalling

[PaulRhB]

Unless you have very tall doorways you’re going to have to lift it through at an angle so you’re going to be watching several things at once which means damage is likely. Something that will fit through doors on end with a couple of inches clearance is generally easier to lift as the weight is closer to you.

If you’ve already built the board though you could consider adding a couple of casters under one end so you wheel it around like a big sack truck?

[Harlequin]

Similar thread from a few months ago: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/138673-transportable-baseboard-size

[newbryford]

 

 

If I were making something 7' x 1'6" for home use, I'd definitely make it in two halves.

 

John

 

But 7' x 9" would still be difficult to move around........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll get me coat.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[DCB]

7ft is too long, it need to be able to fit through doorways held vertically so about 6ft 4" is about the reasonable limit width wise 2ft is manageable  4ft 6" is a monster.   If you need 7ft a 6ft with an extra foot as an add on is better than a bend in the middle 3ft 6 plus 3ft 6".

[johnb]

I have two fully sceniced layouts to move around by myself. One has three 4ft x 1t boards and moving just one needs care to avoid damage to all the scenics. The other is a single unit 5ft x 2ft and no heavier than the others, but it is decidedly more unwieldy and needs great care to avoid damage. Just looking at the size issue and not weight then I agree with Meil above  that 4ft x 2ft is about the maximum practical size for single handed use.

 

John

[zarniwhoop]

Whats the largest baseboard that can be moved by kne person? Could a 7’ x 1’6” baseboard ve made so it can be moved around the house on my own?

Apart from all the good points above, consider also how high it is going to be including depth below baseboard (you might

need a lot of height there, e.g for. signals which have a solenoid below them) and height above (scenery, backscene or

protective boards). For a fit person in a single-level dwelling, 7' x 1'6" x perhaps 4" (12mm board, nominal 2"x1" framing,

track and underlay or ballast) might be achievable. Similarly with stairs (but it depends very much on the stairs, and the space above and below them). But increase that by only a little and you start to need much more space to angle it less steeply to get through doors, and there is also the question of how you carry it through the door (castors on one end,pull the other behind you, or try to hold it around the middle ?

[Penrhos1920]

Don't forget that the boards will need to shrink as you get older!

[WishIHadAName]

Ok thanks for the replies. Just fearful of trying to make boards that join? Or is it not as difficult as I fear? Trying to get back into the hobby after a ten year gap as an adult now.

[Right Away]

If regular portability is required I would suggest two x 4' boards resting on 4x home made trestles. Align the boards with metal dowels, and secure with a 2x nut and bolts.

 

Depending on preference you could use hinges instead of bolts but as other members have said, scenery and buildings etc have to be considered.

 

When track position is finalised and laid, cut through the rails at the joint with a Dremel or similar. Remove a couple of sleepers each side of the joint and solder copper clad strip to the rails in their place. Before fixing, cut through the copper each side to isolate each rail. Drill small holes in the new copper sleepers and fix to board.

[Harlequin]

If regular portability is required I would suggest two x 4' boards resting on 4x home made trestles. Align the boards with metal dowels, and secure with a 2x nut and bolts.

 

Depending on preference you could use hinges instead of bolts but as other members have said, scenery and buildings etc have to be considered.

 

When track position is finalised and laid, cut through the rails at the joint with a Dremel or similar. Remove a couple of sleepers each side of the joint and solder copper clad strip to the rails in their place. Before fixing, cut through the copper each side to isolate each rail. Drill small holes in the new copper sleepers and fix to board.

I think cutting through the rails with the Dremel should be the very last step, after they have been soldered to solidly fixed copperclad (or brass pins or screws depending on your preference), so that alignment is guaranteed. Otherwise there's too much opportunity for them to move before they are cut.

Edited January 25, 2019 by Harlequin

[Harlequin]

Ok thanks for the replies. Just fearful of trying to make boards that join? Or is it not as difficult as I fear? Trying to get back into the hobby after a ten year gap as an adult now.

That's partly why I started the other thread I mentioned above.

 

Physically joining boards and ensuring alignment of track across joints isn't that difficult. But each joint has to be disguised in the scenery, there are electrical connections to be made and the joints affect your track plan because you can't (*) lay points across them. (* Although I'm sure someone will now say they have done so.)

 

And if you are setting up and breaking down regularly each joint adds to the time taken.

 

So it just seems sensible to minimise the number of joints, right?

Edited January 25, 2019 by Harlequin

[john new]

And also if you ever want to take it somewhere in the long-term the size of the smallest vehicle you are likely to own, now or in the future. A 7ft board wouldn't fit many cars.

 

Also think storage. Having just downsized my car the experimental 3 x cardboard fruit boxes base won't go in and it is a b*****r to get up and down the stairs. Built for garage storage and use downstairs damp has meant if it is to be used it will have to be upstairs in a spare bedroom.

[colin penfold]

And plan ahead ideally for straight, plain track only crossing joints. Platforms and buildings can be made removable if they fall on a joint line. This helps a bit in disguising the join.

[newbryford]

And plan ahead ideally for straight, plain track only crossing joints. Platforms and buildings can be made removable if they fall on a joint line. This helps a bit in disguising the join.

 

And try and keep pointwork away from the joint.

[bill937ca]

First limiting factor will be the width of doorways.  Are there stairs involved? I have hobby tables that were designed to be moved from room to room which has never happened. They are 2.5' x 5' and on castors. My tables have been moved around the great room many times. But these were never intended  to be moved outside my place. I would say about 3' x 2' would be good general size, not getting too heavy and still manageable by one person at times.

Edited January 25, 2019 by bill937ca

[john new]

And also if you ever want to take it somewhere in the long-term the size of the smallest vehicle you are likely to own, now or in the future. A 7ft board wouldn't fit many cars.

 

Also think storage. Having just downsized my car the experimental 3 x cardboard fruit boxes base won't go in and it is a b*****r to get up and down the stairs. Built for garage storage and use downstairs damp has meant if it is to be used it will have to be upstairs in a spare bedroom.

Forgot to add into it is a b*****r to get up and down the stairs - why, the double L shaped corner half way up and the 90 deg swing needed in the narrow hall to get from the hall onto the stairs in the first place. Edited January 26, 2019 by john new

[Michael Edge]

Shape matters as well, the Hercuaneum boards are very big anyway but the worst one to handle is the L shaped board with the corner of the dock. This one has a mind and a will of its own when being lifted and moved.

[Andy Hayter]

height of baseboard can also be important - height being once all buildings and scenery are installed - not distance from the ground once installed.

Oh has boards that are only 3ft 6in x 2 ft that are an absolute nightmare to move around because they are around 2ft 6in high with mountainous scenery plus trees on top.  So you see higher than wide.

[Right Away]

I think cutting through the rails with the Dremel should be the very last step, after they have been soldered to solidly fixed copperclad (or brass pins or screws depending on your preference), so that alignment is guaranteed. Otherwise there's too much opportunity for them to move before they are cut.

Phil, I took it as a given that by using the word "laid" it would signify the track actual being fixed. My sentences might not be in the ideal order.

 

However, I appreciate that my reasoning might not be so obvious to others and your comment is welcome; we're all here to help each other.

 

Regards

Edited January 26, 2019 by Right Away