"Grin-through" after respray

[PAL]

I'd appreciate members' advice on a "first-ever" job, to wit a total respray of a loco. Will all existing cabside numbers, insignia etc be obliterated with adequate spraying or do they, presumably being transfers, tend to grin through? Is it best practice always to T-cut everything off first?  Specifics:  Hornby 08, from the green livery to the earlier black, Railmatch Weathered Black. Sage observations on other aspects of the business would be most welcome. 

Edited January 26, 2019 by PAL

[Matt]

The advice I've always been given is to remove any printed details - first as they will still show through.  I've never done it without removing to say the advice is sound but removing the remnants of decals is easy especially if you are not wanting to keep the livery.  

 

M

[SR71]

I'd say always remove transfers. Rather than t-cut (which is a polish) it is always best to try and lightly roughen the surface of the existing paint to give a key to the new paint. Normally you'd use a fine wet and dry paper but on rtr you will obliterate all the detail. As an alternative I've used a fibre glass brush all over to roughen the surface before painting. Finally wash the body several times to get rid of any grease before painting.

[MartynJPearson]

I resprayed a Lima class 20 - the one that was in large logo livery despite never having carried that livery in real life. I found that with some very careful attention with a scalpel the british rail logo lifted off. Had I not, I am certain that the logo would have stood proud and shown following a respray.

[Phil Mc]

Spraying hides NOTHING !!

If you can see it before the paint goes on, It'll stand out a mile after.

I tend to use T-cut and fine wet and dry paper (used wet) to remove printed detail/fine scratches/anything else I don't want  to show, before scrubbing with Cif/Jif cleaner and an old toothbrush, rinse with plenty of clean water and allowing to dry thoroughly.

Don't handle areas to be painted with bare hands, the oil in your skin will adversely affect the ability of paint to stick.

A light coat of primer is a good way of highlighting any area's that need extra work.

Don't be frightened of developing your own methods that work for you, I doubt any two people on this forum follow the exact same procedure, but end up with great results !

 

HTH

 

Cheers,

Phil.

[DCB]

Spraying highlights any imperfections unless it is so thick as to obliterate any detail.  Leaving earlier decals such as GWR or old BR Numbers or emblems is often ok as the old details could often be seen through later repaints.  Obviously a BR double arrow grinning through BR Green livery will pretty much bizarre.  Polish T cut sand etc until you get a nice finish or id its BR era make sure the surface looks rippled and dented before spraying.

[Bruciethefish]

I'd suggest removing the printed detail;- another way of doing this is to flood the area with microsol decal setting solution, then rub away with a cocktail stick. If the resulting surface still looks a little lumpy, you can lightly rub with a little 00000 grade wire wool. 

A specific plastic primer spray can be used as a barrier coat, & this will reveal any areas still requiring attention before you apply the final top coat.

Incidentally, the phenomenon where previous work done on something shows through the eventual finish is known in the trade as 'witnessing'...

[newbryford]

To repeat the above, removal of printed detail is good.

However, as a minimum, at least rub down the edge of it - with fibreglass brush or very fine wet n dry.

 

There are quite a few threads on chemical paint/decal removal from Superstrip to IPA to Dettol to Sharpie pens to T-Cut.............

 

 

I'd say always remove transfers. Rather than t-cut (which is a polish) 

 

T-cut contains abrasives to remove paint (and layers of ink). What it does is remove the tarnished/damaged topcoat and highlight the next layer.

 

Use T-cut for long enough and all the paint will eventually disappear.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[PAL]

Thanks to all respondents.The consensus is clear;  it's  one of those jobs that have to be done, and thoroughly. I sort of knew it in a way, as your fingertips can feel the slight embossing of the decals. Brucie and Phil:  putting on a primer coat to reveal problems strikes me as a great idea.

[Phil Mc]

A primer coat doesn't need to be a thick, solid coat. Especially if the top-coat is a darker colour than the underlying colour, it's more of a matt finish layer that allows the top coat to 'key' (stick) to it.

As with most painting tasks, several thin coats are better than one thick one. This reduces the chances of detail being obliterated, or the paint peeling off when masking tape is removed, etc.

I tend to use a hairdryer on a warm (not hot!) setting to dry the paint between each pass with the airbrush, but that is just a method that suits me.

With practice you'll develop your own way of doing things, which is part of the fun !!

 

Cheers,

Phil.

[Hilux5972]

I tested out my skills by buying a few old bodies of coaches and locos off eBay and at swap meets. Was a great way to gain some skills before moving on to the more expensive locos and coaches we have now.

[cypherman]

Hi all,

Yes it is always advisable to remove all transfers and nameplates etc prior to spraying. Also remove any glazing as well. Then give the body a good clean to get any grease or dirt of it. When you are cleaning your loco or wagon make sure you get into those little corners and clean out the dirt/grease there. A light run over with a very fine wet and dry also helps the paint key in as well. If it is a metal bodied loco you are going to paint I would clean off all the old paint and start with a clean body. A reasonable spray with an undercoat of perhaps 2-3 coats is also a good idea. The undercoat does not need to sprayed on thick like you were dressing it for winter. Just nice and smooth

Edited January 27, 2019 by cypherman