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DJH D20


coronach
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments.  I will look into obtaining a replacement set of handrail knobs and have another go at the handrails.  In the meantime, here is a photo update - it is always tempting fate to post pictures here.  That being said, my approach is to create a model railway that captures some of the atmosphere of the late 50s / early 60s, rather than precise historical accuracy so I am not too worried about some of the minor details.  I was brought up in a household with a gauge 0 clockwork railway in the garden, where realism included the smell of creosoted sleepers and structures , gravel ballast, real leaves on the line - loads of compromise and scope for creative imagination.

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I thought you might be interested in my 62396. The main differences from your version are the Dave Alexander tender with the correct shaped cut-outs in the frames, and the extended smokebox which all BR locos seemed to finish with. Mine has a "conventional" chassis with the motor driving on the leading drivers, extra weight above the motor, which has the rear shaft cut, and the tender-loco coupling adjusted to keep the rear drivers on the track.

 

I agree, however, that none of the changes  are vital and conveying an atmosphere can be just as satisfying as trying to produce absolute accuracy, and it's your model to do with as you wish. The important part of loco building, as far as I'm concerned, is to enjoy doing it and seeing it running at the end of the exercise.

 

John

 

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I am pleased to report that, having fitted the electrical pickups, I tested the loco yesterday on 'Whinburgh and Slitrigg' and it runs perfectly well with the motor out front hidden within the boiler.  I have counterbalanced the loco with a small lump of lead in the firebox and there is no evidence of the engine being front-heavy. 

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....  And finally, the loco is complete! It might not win any awards in terms of accuracy and modelling quality but I enjoyed building it and it runs really well.  The motor is fitted forward of the front driving wheel, in the boiler.  I have added a small amount of lead above the driving wheels and there is no problem with it being front heavy.

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As far as the kit goes, it is a bit crude by current standards and the parts needed a lot of cleaning up.  I decided against purchasing replacement components although i might replace the chimney, which looks awful.  It reminds me a bit of my childhood which was spent operating clockwork tinplate locos on Dad's gauge 0 garden railway in York, so that's kind of nostalgic.  I think I will stick to etched brass kits in future - having said that, I built the DJH J35 a few years ago and that was better.

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That is lovely! I've got one in the process of being built, very slowly! But it'll get there! Mine is an older version of the kit I think, without the raised frames or long smokebox, so I've had to produce those myself.

 

You've certainly made the proverbial silk purse from a sow's ear!

 

Cheers

 

J

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  • 7 months later...

I have just read this D20 thread and I thank you for the pointers.  As you know, I'm just about to start my build.  Your experiences and discussions above will be extremely useful.  Thanks again for the prior knowledge.  Your loco definitely looks the business and if mine turns out as good as yours I will be a happy chappie!

 

Regards,

Brian.

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On 13/04/2020 at 19:05, Brian D said:

I have just read this D20 thread and I thank you for the pointers.  As you know, I'm just about to start my build.  Your experiences and discussions above will be extremely useful.  Thanks again for the prior knowledge.  Your loco definitely looks the business and if mine turns out as good as yours I will be a happy chappie!

 

Regards,

Brian.

I hope it goes well for you. I managed to construct the model with a comet gearbox and the motor forward in the boiler (just). I am not an expert in loco kit construction but this one seems to have gone together ok. Some of the fittings are a bit crude but I have managed to hide things with judicious weathering. I have also built the DJH J35 and the PDK D30, both of which are of a better quality, although the D30 being brass is a touch too light. The J35 is nice and heavy and can pull much more. Keep us posted with your progress.....

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For some reason I have not built a DJH kit yet but have four or five now to either finish off (bought part built) or build. DJH gear boxes look impressive if a bit on the large size, I have two, an early  one with a D11 motor and a later version with a Mashima, these will go into large tank locos, not necessarily DJH kits. Though I could swap the Mashima for one of High Levels coreless motors (or a smaller Mashima). which might make it a bit smaller and easier to fit. Having said this one of the more prolific builders uses these as gearbox of choice, so the operational quality seems very good

 

However looking an another recent thread building a DJH 4-4-0 LNER loco, to me these gearbox/motor combinations both a bit large and perhaps the wrong shape for smaller boilered locos, or rather a better configuration could be obtained by using a unit from another gearbox provider (High Level/Comet) especially when drive stretchers are used. I see you have done this

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