Nicktoix Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Leeds MRS are building a 7mm model of Plymouth Friary engine shed. When complete it will be about 42ft overall with a 25ft viewing area. There was a variety of locos allocated to the shed usually several of the same type. Most can be provided from existing kits, O2, M7 and West Countries. But one or two are harder to come by. The shed had several B4s which when withdrawn were replace by Drewry O4s. The B4s I have already done. The only sources of the O4s is a Vulcan kit or Sang Cheng brass. Neither are easy to come by and given the variations in the O4s I decided to produce some etches and build them Variations in O4s are numerous. The first few had different size wheels, different cabs and sandboxes. They are various footplate patterns i.e. diamond and (what I call) “flecked” . The chassis was etched in 22th nickel silver and the body in 15th. Nothing special about the basic chassis. The rear pair of wheels are compensated. The reason for slot in the frames behind the buffer beams will become apparent later 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted February 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2019 Be interesting to see this develop. There was a brass kit as well - I’ve got one in my stash. Made by Right Price or something like that. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 More progress on the brakes. I found the covers on the pivots quite distinctive so had to include them. The brake mechanism can't be seen under the loco but I thought I put it in anyway. Should have added a piece of tube and a small nut over the leading pull bar to simulate the adjuster. That is going to make fitting pickups awkward but ho hum ! Nick 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 The steps are attached to the frames. The rear set are screwed to the rear spacer to allow removal to allow access to the drive crank. The front set are soldered on. The sandboxes are moulded using a 3d printed master by innocentman of this parish. The air tanks are also mouldings from my own masters. Plenty of room for the motor and gearbox. The buffers are from NMRS and fitted with oval overlays. The reason for the slot in the frames now shows. A piece of wire is soldered to the end of the buffer shank and passes thro' the slot which stops the buffers turning. Nick 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2019 NMRS do have an oval head version of this buffer, easier for some but yours are more correct. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Nothing special about the wheels (Slaters do the correct pattern) or rods etc. I have forgotten to put the “hooks” on the buffer beams will have to scrape some paint off and do them later. And yes the pickups were awkward. Plungers would be better or leave off the brake gear. One problem I have yet to solve is the sandbox outlets Prototype Model The answer might be lost wax castings but that will depend on my ability to make masters and the price Nick 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 Onto the body. The cab assembly is straightforward with tabs fitting into slots on the footplate. The edges of the footplate are bent over rather than the more traditional valance arrangement. The slots are filled with solder from behind. I made them rather too wide but now corrected on the etch The engine casing was a bit of a challenge. I had two sets of body etchings. One I bent without annealing and as it shows in the photos it didn't bend well the centre of the bend is very different from the ends even though there are half etched lines in the bend area. Annealing along the half etched lines with a small blowtorch made all the difference. I much prefer nickel silver to brass because of the ease of soldering but I suspect that these bends are easier in brass. Fitting the doors is easy but the handles are tedious and I added a small jig to the etch to make bending them easier. The radius on it is a guide to the radius of the front of the casing. Rapid progress now NIck 7 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 12, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2019 Engine casings are definitely easier to bend in brass, I usually have to use n/s for the New Zealand kits I design and they are a lot harder to form accurately. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted February 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2019 I have a massive softspot for the Drewry 04 so loving this! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 I etched the front separate to the main casing thinking that it would be easier to handle when shaping the front. This was a mistake as it was tricky to get the front and the main casing to match properly. The corrected etch has it all in one piece. I soldered some 1.2mm copper wire in to joint between the front and the sides of the radiator to give some extra bulk where it would be filed back to shape. Once the casing is fixed it's then just down to detail and doing it in the right order. The cab door handrails go on before the cab floor followed by the control desk (all the levers fixed before fitting) and finally the control panel. There are a lot of lamp brackets especially on the southern region engines. The fillers are all brass turnings but could easily be made up from telescopic tube. Don't understand the variation in picture size though. Nick 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) I missed some rivets on the cab roof and vent but have added these to the drawings. There should also be a strip of rivets under the roof and along the cab front and back. These have also been added to the etch The roof is held in by tube in each corner of the cab and legs of wire soldered to the roof. The wipers were so small they were a pain to make but worth it I think. So that's it basically. There is one challenge ahead which is the cab side windows. They stand proud of the cab and I have a plan to make them by layering etches and glazing after painting. It should work (says he hopefully). Hooks attached to buffer beam Finished item but missing vac pipes to come from Laurie Griffin Sorry for the different picture sizes. They are all 8cm wide from Photoshop but here seem to have a life of their own. NIck Edited February 17, 2019 by Nicktoix pic on twice 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Final view 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Nick, Will it be possible to purchase a set of etchings (and possibly castings)? I've always had a fond spot for the O4's. Thanks, PM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Yes can do. I have sent you a PM Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 4 hours ago, PhilMortimer said: Nick, Will it be possible to purchase a set of etchings (and possibly castings)? I've always had a fond spot for the O4's. Thanks, PM +1, interested in a set of parts... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meld9003 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Ditto! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 19, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2019 Drewry shunter and problem solving, what's not to like?, and as a bonus a tin of proper flux lurking in the background. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 1 hour ago, Enterprisingwestern said: Drewry shunter and problem solving, what's not to like?, and as a bonus a tin of proper flux lurking in the background. Mike. But I only use it for occasional electrical work otherwise it's phosphoric acid at a suitable dilution. I've probably had the tin of Fluxite for at least 20 years. I saw an even bigger tin recently that would probably life several lifetimes. Nick 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 2 hours ago, Meld9003 said: Ditto! PM sent Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted March 22, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 22, 2019 Is it wrong to be excited for a set of parts in the wrong gauge, that I have no idea when even going to be able to build? Have I ever said I love the 04s? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted March 22, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 22, 2019 Looks very clean that loco! baz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 A little light weathering might be called for. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted March 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2019 Sorry which buffers did you use? I can't decide between L9, L11 or L14? http://www.nmrs-models.co.uk/ogauge/Buffers/Loco Buffers.html thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 L11 Nick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 Whilst gearing up for a bigger project, i thought i would bump this one up the build queue.. All seems to be going according to plan, etches all fit nicely.. Wheels and rods are the next step, i don't like the slaters crankpins as supplied so will be tapping then 10BA. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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