Kato track - droppers?

[joe2003]

Hello!

 

Planning my first real layout at the moment. I am using Kato unitrack, N scale. I have just got DCC++ working and installed a decoder in one of my locos. I am now looking at wiring. 

 

I know people recommend droppers at every section of track but was wondering how people do this with Kato? Kato have the small sections of track, and the wires clip in at the bottom. If I use lots of these I will just be increasing the track joins so defeating the point? Do people drill in through the track bed and solder direct? Not too keen on this idea! Was planning on using the small wired track pieces every 3-4 track lengths.

 

Thanks

[Butler Henderson]

IME Kato joiners give excellent conductivity and would suggest such an approach is not neccessary

[peach james]

KATO rate their track at 36VA, or 36W.  So, if it was me, I would be careful around turnouts to put power to all 3 sides of a turnout fairly close, or pick a booster which is less than 3A/12V.  I'm using a Digitrax DB150 (which is 5A/12V) when I set up the Unitrack for playing with, and a pair of wires near equidistant apart on a loop railway.  If you have more than 2 feeds in, at about equal #'s of sections apart, then you should be able to use a 5-6A/12V booster without causing undo alarm.   I'd suspect based on what I do with Lego (which is similarly a very modular system), that you will need feeds about every 30 pieces of Unitrack at 5A in order to pass a short circuit test.

 

That really is the key- take a screwdriver, or coin, and short out the track at the furthest point from the feed in.  If the booster trips right away, then you have enough feeders.  if not, then you need more.

 

James

[rogerzilla]

Kato Unitrack is great for setting up a temporary tabletop test/running-in track and I wouldn't bother with droppers for that; the joiners are kept clean by detaching and reattaching them*.  On a permanent layout, oxidation will gradually increase the resistance at the joiners until there is a significant voltage drop furthest from the feed track.

 

*one trick for fixing irritating electronic problems on cars is to unplug and replug all the connectors under the bonnet, cleaning the contacts by doing so

[boxbrownie]

I have had a Kato N Unitrack layout for years, actually about ten years in my shed (although now after our move it is standing vertical in the playroom!) and it was powered just as Kato advised, all the points are motorised (DC) with a two main loop continuous, a reverse loop and a four track overhead terminus all controlled from a Digitrax DC50, all works great, no stutters and very smooth running (although it is all Kato Japanese Loco/DMU/EMU stock).

 

I would dismiss using droppers unless your building a 200 metre long exhibition layout.