David Pell Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 I'm after a bit of advice as I build my first layout. I'm approaching the point of needing to build or buy a mimic/control panel to house the passing contact switches for point motors (18 of them) together with the red/green LED route indication lights. As this is my first layout all this is new to me. I've had a look on the internet and read a number of books to get some ideas on either where to buy a panel from, or, how to build one, materials, size, style, connections from panel to wiring etc? Unfortunately i've obviously been looking in the wrong places as I can't seem to find any useful information. Any ideas, suggestions, drawings or manufacturers would be really appreicated. Over now to all the experienced guys and gals out there. Many thanks Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Are you thinking of having your mimic/control panel as a baseboard 'built-in', or something detachable you might want to hang on to the side of a baseboard? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff park Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Also what sort of level are your woodworking and electrical skills, and what access do you have to machinery , tools etc ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pell Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Mimic/control panel would need to be detachable. Work working skills are ok, electrical not too bad and I have a number of electric hand tools. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 1 Where are you transforming mains voltage to low voltage - on the floor, or in the control panel? 2 Will your controller(s) be part of the control panel, or separate? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pell Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Transforming will be on the floor and controller will be separate 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 When I was into riding Motorbikes I remember marvelling at the super light intricate stop light mounting bracket on a Japanese 4 cylinder bike. Shortly after I saw a BMW K100 and noticed it didn't actually have a stop light bracket at all, just a hole in the footrest mounting plate. What has this to do with model railways, nothing actually, except it set me thinking and since then I have poked switches through 2X1 baseboard framing instead of using a separate panel. An all singing all dancing separate control panel is nice if you like playing signalman but far from essential and keeping the display and point settings in synch can be challenging if points don't throw. The LEDs are cheap enough but its a huge heap of complication and if mounted horizontal a big waste of space Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted February 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) Hi Dave, I searched for "Railway mimic panel" on Google and found lots of useful info including various YouTube videos (and a supplier of such things to Network Rail!). I haven't actually built one yet but my suggestion would be to sandwich a design printed on paper between a hardboard backing (or any suitable thin sheet material) and clear polystyrene. By designing on your computer and printing out you can make it look exactly how you want, you can easily revise it in the future if you need to and it will look much neater than painted lines or tape. Your home printer might be big enough to do the whole panel (A4 or A3, you don't say how big you intend your panel to be). If not you could tile sheets side by side, although that wouldn't be as good as a single sheet. Or you could get the design printed in large format by an online printing service. The clear polystyrene on top will protect the printout and you can drill through the whole assembly to mount lights, switches, stud contacts, etc. Tip: Use a drawing program to create the design, not a painting program, so that it's easier to go back and edit in the future. Edited February 6, 2019 by Harlequin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) 52 minutes ago, Harlequin said: Hi Dave, I searched for "Railway mimic panel" on Google and found lots of useful info including various YouTube videos (and a supplier of such things to Network Rail!). I haven't actually built one yet but my suggestion would be to sandwich a design printed on paper between a hardboard backing (or any suitable thin sheet material) and clear polystyrene. By designing on your computer and printing out you can make it look exactly how you want, you can easily revise it in the future if you need to and it will look much neater than painted lines or tape. Your home printer might be big enough to do the whole panel (A4 or A3, you don't say how big you intend your panel to be). If not you could tile sheets side by side, although that wouldn't be as good as a single sheet. Or you could get the design printed in large format by an online printing service. The clear polystyrene on top will protect the printout and you can drill through the whole assembly to mount lights, switches, stud contacts, etc. Tip: Use a drawing program to create the design, not a painting program, so that it's easier to go back and edit in the future. I made my last few from 3mm acrylic which is nice & rigid but I have had to use thin tape to mark the tracks after laser cutting the switch holes. This splits far too easily when drilling even if you are very careful. I do notice other control panels at exhibitions. I see some rough ones but also some which are very elegant. I would like to better what I do now but have not got around to asking any of the layout owners how they have achieved it. I think your idea of effectively laminating a printed diagram between 2 layers is excellent. Be careful with the thickness of it though. Many electronic switches only mount into panels of up to about 3mm thick. Edited February 6, 2019 by Pete the Elaner 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted February 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2019 25 minutes ago, Pete the Elaner said: I made my last few from 3mm acrylic which is nice & rigid but I have had to use thin tape to mark the tracks after laser cutting the switch holes. This splits far too easily when drilling even if you are very careful. I do notice other control panels at exhibitions. I see some rough ones but also some which are very elegant. I would like to better what I do now but have not got around to asking any of the layout owners how they have achieved it. I think your idea of effectively laminating a printed diagram between 2 layers is excellent. Be careful with the thickness of it though. Many electronic switches only mount into panels of up to about 3mm thick. Yes, two good points there: Some plastics can be drilled without splitting, some can't, so be careful of the material you use. Polystyrene should be OK if you don't drill too close to the edges. Be careful of the overall thickness. B&Q sell 2mm thick clear polystyrene: https://www.diy.com/departments/clear-polystyrene-glazing-sheet-1-2m-x-600mm/35393_BQ.prd 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Ron Ron Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) 19 hours ago, David Pell said: ............I'm approaching the point of needing to build or buy a mimic/control panel to house the passing contact switches for point motors (18 of them) together with the red/green LED route indication lights....... Which point motors are you using, or intending to use? Have you bought them yet? Will the train control be analogue (DC) ? . Edited February 6, 2019 by Ron Ron Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pell Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 Hi, I'm using Peco PL-10E motors with Peco PL-15 microswitches. All bought from Hattons with very good service. It's going to be a DCC control via a Gaugemaster Prodigy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryj Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 (edited) look at blocksignalling web site they do a circuit board that controls led when you throw point http://www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/points-position-indicator-ppi4-dc they also do one for dcc points as well i have done a small mimic board using probe and stud rather than switches they also do an infra red point changer that throws points when a train is detected so may have a play with a couple of those as well Edited February 7, 2019 by terryj mis spelt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Ron Ron Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) On 06/02/2019 at 08:44, Ron Ron Ron said: Which point motors are you using, or intending to use? Have you bought them yet? Will the train control be analogue (DC) ? . On 06/02/2019 at 14:23, David Pell said: Hi, I'm using Peco PL-10E motors with Peco PL-15 microswitches. All bought from Hattons with very good service. It's going to be a DCC control via a Gaugemaster Prodigy Hi David, Have you considered the DCC Concepts Alpha range of stuff, for control of points, routes and signal control? This kit will allow you to build a mimic panel and/or a mini lever frame and operate the points etc, by DCC. Depending on which bits you buy and the way you want it set up, you can either use it as an extension to the Prodigy Advance system, or as a stand alone system, independent of the Prodigy Advance. It would cost extra to buy Accessory decoders etc, but there would be a significant reduction the amount of wiring between the panel and the layout. It could be particularly useful if wanting a detachable and/or portable panel, because there would only need to be one simple, ready made, off the shelf cable connection between the panel and the layout, instead of reams of wires, multi-pin plugs etc.. Other manufactures offer kit to help you build DCC operated mimic panels, but they don't offer such a full range of various add ons, or options. Non of this stuff is cheap, but it depends what you want at the end of the day. Alternatively, switches and loads of wire will cost a lot less, but involves a lot of wires and wiring up, with the attendant increased risk of electrical problems. Horses for courses and all that...... . Edited February 9, 2019 by Ron Ron Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 I’ve done a number of mimic panels , using my local digital sprint bureaus ability to print digital vinyl signs , very robust , available in large formats and vibrant colour. Mounted on 2mm aluminum , drill through the whole lot and mount leds and switches as required with passing contact switches , you will have to think about how to replicate the point position on the mimic panel , either by using microswiches on the point motors , which will generate a lot more wiring , or some other method as passing contact switches can’t indicate point position ( there are circuits and set /reset logic that can work around this ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Hi If you want to avoid carpentry a 'flat pack' self assembly style control panel is available made to your specification, from suppliers like for example KS laser. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Don't forget the problem of wiring - if you have this as a detachable panel then you are looking at 40+ wires (given 18 turnouts) and connectors for them are very difficult to source and even more expensive. Last time I did this I used multiple 36 way type connectors and ribbon cable but you need to be wary of the current currying capacity of these cables and a loom of 40*7/02 wires or better 40*16/02 wires to carry the current makes quite a bundle of cable to work with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Depending on the size of your layout , the wiring from a mimic panel can get widely out of control I use MERGs CBUS layout control kits to dramatically reduce mimic panel wiring to the outside world hence though my latest panel has 150 leds and many switches it has just 4 wires to the layout ! I would always advice that points and signals are controlled by a mimic panel and some form of switch ( levers , toggles , probe and stud ). Keying in multiple dcc accessory codes to throw points and signals gets old fast and forces you onto dcc cabs with integrated mimics dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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