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Hi

 

I have just found your thread and will follow it with great interest.

 

I have my own thread in the Layout Topics section it’s Haymarket 64B, Haymarket MPD in 00 Scale.

 

If I hadn’t have done this I would have looked at either Ilfracombe or Padstow as a project as I do like the West Country and Battle of Britain Class just as much as the LNER Pacific’s.

 

Good luck with your project the progress you have made so far is excellent in modelling and quality. 

 

Regards

 

David

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Cheers for having a look over my thread guys. I'm trying to copy as much as possible from the real location which is fun looking through all the old photos and trying to understand how things were. 

 

DLT and Landscapes I follow both of your topics so it's a pleasure to have you here looking at what I'm up to. 

 

With the nice weather I set about painting my platform edges yesterday morning using a sponge to ensure no brush strokes were seen. I also had a test go at ballasting with a mix of play sand and fine ballast. This looked quite good so more of this to follow as well as the inclusion of DAS modelling clay.

IMG_20200405_161605.jpg.3b76267457a317a3d661a18c4d912c3b.jpg

A prime example of trying to understand from photos of how the real location worked is the ground frame controlling the loco release on platform two. Having put together the kit the other day with a point lever and a lever for the FPL I realised that actually only the point lever was required. No passenger movements were over this crossover and pictures concluded my theory that there was only the single lever on the groundframe. 

IMG_20200405_172842.jpg.2fdcd633febdf2861da8b6e168b0ae56.jpg

 

 

It was suggested by one of my Farnham MRC members to purchase a copy of this book while I was at Warley last year. It is very informative and expanded my previous understanding of rodding runs that I had found by reading a document written by the signal engineering society. I have had a crack at modelling point rodding before using MSE etches however this was very fiddly and ended up not being that robust. This time I decided I will use combination of the cranks and compensators from the etches and combine them with the wills point rodding kits. Yes this will mean they are overscale, but will allow me to having something less likely to break.

 

 

IMG_20200405_121522.jpg.711d1ea54bc2eadbd925bc96a055d202.jpg

Using the principles laid out in regards to push and pull having to be equal and how to achieve that through the cranks I first measured out and drew what would be required for the rodding run for the loco crossover onto the baseboard. This will be the only rodding run on this board thankfully, but will give me some practice before doing some more of the complex ones in the main station throat.

 

 

IMG_20200405_161443.jpg.891dc87d00720cfed6a32dc9a18671a1.jpg

The end of this run was covered by concrete trunking which luckily for me seems to happen for a number of points within Ilfracombe.

 

 

IMG_20200405_161617.jpg.a686e2ebffc26ddabf41dfc5b46226ea.jpg

After a few hours in the garden today I've end up with the competed rodding run. For the sake of my own sanity I have decided to simplify the final drive as I felt that for this it was a step too far. I may have a crack at it when I come to do the next batch of rodding. 

 

 

IMG_20200405_161420.jpg.b57f6c572647d979af1be71765a2daec.jpg

I then got the platform edging that I had previously done and mocked it up in position using blu tack and checked that locos would not foul the platform edge as they used the crossover. While doing this I realised that where I had added some of the cranks it would force the platform too far away creating an unrealistic gap. I therefore had to mimic real life and create cut outs within the platform face for the cranks to sit into. After cutting the holes I faced them with some slaters I-beam plasticard and will touch up the paint work to make it all blend in. 

 

 

 

A good days work if you ask me. And now I can move on the the joyous task of ballasting and putting down more of the ground cover. A few other packages should arrive in the post over the next couple of days so I can add the yard levers and buffer stops to the ends of the rails. 

 

Thanks 

 

Pete

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Thanks for the comments it was really fiddly and time consuming but it definitely looks the part once done. 

 

Today I  thought I'd lay off the main layout and have a go at continuing my little repair project, so out came the paint booth. Further details can be found on this thread

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 

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Some more bits have arrived although I seem to have made a slight slip up and accidentally ordered 0 gauge rail built buffers, strangely most places seem to be sold out of the 00 ones it seems they are another coronavirus victim of stockpiling. I did however manage to find some more from another shop but will have to get the mistakenly ordered ones back to hattons as soon as I can. 

 

 

IMG_20200407_215933.jpg.0626025d6f7613d1b0a91f8aebc708c6.jpg

The good news however was that I did order some bullhead buffers which were in the correct scale. These two are now in the goods yard. I'll wait for the others to turn up as I need to butcher them a little in order to maximise space. Im also using two different types for some variety plus it seems that Ilfracombe did have a couple of different types dotted throughout the station. 

 

 

IMG_20200407_215843.jpg.a9331f912c5f7a8c8302fb8f5cdd1fa2.jpg

These also arrived all the way  from Ireland today. You can get packs of just levers, or just shunt signals but it was cheaper to get multipacks as I needed both. They are whitmetal castings and are prepainted so are ready to pop down straight away. 

IMG_20200407_215911.jpg.20af659108dd0762dc7ecdea68544779.jpg

 

 

I used some wooden plank wills sheeting and cut out individual boards in order to create the footing for the switch.

 

 

IMG_20200407_215858.jpg.6beac69931256d75439ff457b5d79edf.jpg

This one I did the same but laid them on two offcut sleepers I had to hand. Lever was much further away from the point and it's practically up against the goods shed so I have copied this. That's most of the little bits stuck down now so hopefully I'll carry on with ballasting and get the clay in for the yard surface. 

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 

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Yesterday I had the inevitable task of ballasting. I don't find any pleasure with this bit of modelling however I did manage to get it down fairly quickly. And with the nice warm afternoon sun it dried pretty quick too. 

 

 

IMG_20200408_162133.jpg.5f0452776033b8a0d2ae235d9863d749.jpg

I mixed play sand and fine woodland scenics buff ballast together which gave me ....

 

 

IMG_20200408_162103.jpg.fc6b178d7161bf5645d17658bc58bc72.jpg

I just gently tipped out the mix onto the tracks and then used a stuff bristles paint brush to move it about as well as tapping on the track so the ballast moved off the sleepers.

 

 

IMG_20200408_162111.jpg.7d794cb831aed3c86ce6c94eb8a45cca.jpg

I then used my trusty syringe to put on a 50/50 mix of PVA and water with a dab of washing up liquid in. The ballast was wetted with a spray bottle before I did this. 

 

In the main platform lines I made sure there was a little bit more ballast in the mix and in the sidings I ensured there was less. As I'm going to be using DAS modelling clay I just needed to mainly do the 4ft with some spilling out to the outsides of the tracks. 

 

 

IMG_20200408_162149.jpg.5b57fbd490c1047b5484c44b13d4b181.jpg

All done in relatively no time. Once it was touch dry I went around and touched in a few places which had washed away slightly due to it being a much higher sand mix such as the front siding . I also left the point blades for the time being as I might try a cleaner method to get them ballasted so as to ensure I don't gunk them up. 

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I've been laying down an entire brick of DAS modelling clay over the past week or so. It's a very slow going task that needs doing here and there to keep your own sanity as well as ensure that it's done properly rather than half ass it.

 

In smaller areas I simply press the clay down and smooth it in between the sleepers. With a wet finger I smooth over the surface before using a stiff bristled brush to dab at the surface so that it imprints into the clay before letting it dry. For some of the larger sections I put some PVA down first so that the clay had something to adhere to. Although some people have said they get cracking when doing this none of mine did so it's come out quite well.

 

 

IMG_20200420_140805.jpg.b46c026c8cb4b6b5447eeb2d0355accf.jpg

Clay down bit by bit and allowing drying time. Just as it is there is texture but I then added to this. I put some more PVA down over the dried clay and then used sand and sprinkled this over the glue. Once it had dried I hoovered off the excess for reuse leaving a textured surface. Once this was done I then masked up all the rails that had already been painted. 

 

 

IMG_20200420_140814.jpg.4a377b90ffac5143d3b33a20e211d876.jpg

A spray of Halfords grey primer gives me the best undercoat to start with. I've been doing some tests on a scrap piece of wood and I found that texture undercoat then a mix of grey/ brown acrylic paint gives the best finish so far. I will probably also use my airbrush to blend everything together.

 

 

IMG_20200420_140822.jpg.846cae905aa1d03d4e980030b0692bc2.jpg

By the end of the day I had a lot of the areas sanded and sprayed however I also managed to finish off putting down the rest of the clay. 

 

 

IMG_20200420_170729.jpg.b374c56055e3783143bbbdec3c98d0e8.jpg

I used the tiny bit I had left for the station forecourt although I might adapt my texture to make it have a different finish to the carriage sidings/ yard as this would have been concrete/ gravel as opposed to railway yard ballast ect. 

 

Another thing I did today was begin the process of adapting my points further. All the points on this board don't have facing point locks however peco supply all their points with a representation of this. So out came the snips and the Stanley knife.

 

 

IMG_20200420_170704.jpg.c8a195a49fda404925b67b9e63141305.jpg

I cut through the sleepers on the edge of the moulding and pulled this part out leaving me with....

 

 

IMG_20200420_170718.jpg.0ee6a6e1d6f3b82918973062c977823f.jpg

I will fill in the gap left with some spare sleepers but I'm happy with the results as I think they will look much more realistic once finished. 

 

Thanks again 

 

Pete 

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9 hours ago, PeteN92 said:

So I've been laying down an entire brick of DAS modelling clay over the past week or so. It's a very slow going task that needs doing here and there to keep your own sanity as well as ensure that it's done properly rather than half ass it.

 

In smaller areas I simply press the clay down and smooth it in between the sleepers. With a wet finger I smooth over the surface before using a stiff bristled brush to dab at the surface so that it imprints into the clay before letting it dry. For some of the larger sections I put some PVA down first so that the clay had something to adhere to. Although some people have said they get cracking when doing this none of mine did so it's come out quite well.

 

IMG_20200420_140805-min.jpg.e2757889fb160d7d46385a9bc8ec8a22.jpg

 

Clay down bit by bit and allowing drying time. Just as it is there is texture but I then added to this. I put some more PVA down over the dried clay and then used sand and sprinkled this over the glue. Once it had dried I hoovered off the excess for reuse leaving a textured surface. Once this was done I then masked up all the rails that had already been painted. 

 

IMG_20200420_140814-min.jpg.2ee09283f634a948530f317c72766f66.jpg

 

A spray of Halfords grey primer gives me the best undercoat to start with. I've been doing some tests on a scrap piece of wood and I found that texture undercoat then a mix of grey/ brown acrylic paint gives the best finish so far. I will probably also use my airbrush to blend everything together.

 

IMG_20200420_140822-min.jpg.c55f98bc8e16d2f44fe4222fe0cf34bd.jpg

 

By the end of the day I had a lot of the areas sanded and sprayed however I also managed to finish off putting down the rest of the clay. 

 

IMG_20200420_170729-min.jpg.afe4448233b423478d2b0ba33641573e.jpg

 

I used the tiny bit I had left for the station forecourt although I might adapt my texture to make it have a different finish to the carriage sidings/ yard as this would have been concrete/ gravel as opposed to railway yard ballast ect. 

 

Another thing I did today was begin the process of adapting my points further. All the points on this board don't have facing point locks however peco supply all their points with a representation of this. So out came the snips and the Stanley knife.

 

IMG_20200420_170704-min.jpg.c1fb03da05128a0840f538b7ff1b96ea.jpg

 

I cut through the sleepers on the edge of the moulding and pulled this part out leaving me with....

 

IMG_20200420_170718-min.jpg.240bac0374487680f46aac94e7f39b66.jpg

 

I will fill in the gap left with some spare sleepers but I'm happy with the results as I think they will look much more realistic once finished. 

 

Thanks again 

 

Pete 

Hi Pete 

 

Your layout is coming on very nicely.

 

have you had a look at Chris Nevard’s website, he comes up with some brilliant ideas on railway modelling and some are so simple as well.

 

I found I picked up some really good tips when working on Haymarket the quality of his work is stunning.

 

Looking forward to seeing more progress and photos of Ilfracombe plus those wonderful Bulleid Pacific’s.

 

Regards

 

David

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9 hours ago, PeteN92 said:

So I've been laying down an entire brick of DAS modelling clay over the past week or so. It's a very slow going task that needs doing here and there to keep your own sanity as well as ensure that it's done properly rather than half ass it.

 

In smaller areas I simply press the clay down and smooth it in between the sleepers. With a wet finger I smooth over the surface before using a stiff bristled brush to dab at the surface so that it imprints into the clay before letting it dry. For some of the larger sections I put some PVA down first so that the clay had something to adhere to. Although some people have said they get cracking when doing this none of mine did so it's come out quite well.

 

IMG_20200420_140805-min.jpg.e2757889fb160d7d46385a9bc8ec8a22.jpg

 

Clay down bit by bit and allowing drying time. Just as it is there is texture but I then added to this. I put some more PVA down over the dried clay and then used sand and sprinkled this over the glue. Once it had dried I hoovered off the excess for reuse leaving a textured surface. Once this was done I then masked up all the rails that had already been painted. 

 

IMG_20200420_140814-min.jpg.2ee09283f634a948530f317c72766f66.jpg

 

A spray of Halfords grey primer gives me the best undercoat to start with. I've been doing some tests on a scrap piece of wood and I found that texture undercoat then a mix of grey/ brown acrylic paint gives the best finish so far. I will probably also use my airbrush to blend everything together.

 

IMG_20200420_140822-min.jpg.c55f98bc8e16d2f44fe4222fe0cf34bd.jpg

 

By the end of the day I had a lot of the areas sanded and sprayed however I also managed to finish off putting down the rest of the clay. 

 

IMG_20200420_170729-min.jpg.afe4448233b423478d2b0ba33641573e.jpg

 

I used the tiny bit I had left for the station forecourt although I might adapt my texture to make it have a different finish to the carriage sidings/ yard as this would have been concrete/ gravel as opposed to railway yard ballast ect. 

 

Another thing I did today was begin the process of adapting my points further. All the points on this board don't have facing point locks however peco supply all their points with a representation of this. So out came the snips and the Stanley knife.

 

IMG_20200420_170704-min.jpg.c1fb03da05128a0840f538b7ff1b96ea.jpg

 

I cut through the sleepers on the edge of the moulding and pulled this part out leaving me with....

 

IMG_20200420_170718-min.jpg.240bac0374487680f46aac94e7f39b66.jpg

 

I will fill in the gap left with some spare sleepers but I'm happy with the results as I think they will look much more realistic once finished. 

 

Thanks again 

 

Pete 

Hi Pete 

 

Your layout is coming on very well indeed.

 

By chance have you had a look at Chris Nevard’s website, he comes up with some brilliant ideas on railway modelling and some of them are so simple and very clever.

 

I found I picked up some really good tips when working on Haymarket and what he achieves is stunning.

 

Looking forward to seeing more progress and photos of your Ilfracombe Layout  plus seeing  those wonderful Bulleid Pacific’s.

 

Regards

 

David

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2 hours ago, landscapes said:

Hi Pete 

 

Your layout is coming on very well indeed.

 

By chance have you had a look at Chris Nevard’s website, he comes up with some brilliant ideas on railway modelling and some of them are so simple and very clever.

 

I found I picked up some really good tips when working on Haymarket and what he achieves is stunning.

 

Looking forward to seeing more progress and photos of your Ilfracombe Layout  plus seeing  those wonderful Bulleid Pacific’s.

 

Regards

 

David

Hi David, yes I have, in fact the ballasting/ yard technique is me slightly adapting Chris' which he has explained on his site. 

 

I picked the point modifications tip off of Graham Muz's blog which is also good for little tips on adding detail.

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 

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4 minutes ago, PeteN92 said:

Hi David, yes I have, in fact the ballasting/ yard technique is me slightly adapting Chris' which he has explained on his site. 

 

I picked the point modifications tip off of Graham Muz's blog which is also good for little tips on adding detail.

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 

Hi Pete

 

Thanks for that, I wasn't aware of Graham Muz.

 

I have just had a quick look at his blog and just like Chris Nevard his work is supereb, just up your street as well being Southern Region.

 

Regards

 

Daivd

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8 hours ago, PeteN92 said:

Hi David, yes I have, in fact the ballasting/ yard technique is me slightly adapting Chris' which he has explained on his site. 

 

I picked the point modifications tip off of Graham Muz's blog which is also good for little tips on adding detail.

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 


Great seeing this progressing Pete,  it all is slotting into place and very recognisable.

Thanks for the heads up on Graham Muz’s one Id seen I think but promptly forgot about,  good reading.

I like your point modification and would do the same but on Meldon I need the built in spring to overcome the micro switch spring.

I did ponder buying some Das before the lockdown but didn’t, I’m going to experiment with PVA and lightweight filler!

looking good.

 Cheers 

Ade

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On 14/02/2019 at 21:54, PeteN92 said:

I hope you people find this informative

Just been reading the piece about the hands off un-coupling method and have to say its written up well enough for me to understand. Looks a straight forward method so will be giving that a go. 

 

1 question and I may have missed it, how strong are the magnets and how did you know the ones on ebay would be the right strength?

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2 hours ago, AdeMoore said:


Great seeing this progressing Pete,  it all is slotting into place and very recognisable.

Thanks for the heads up on Graham Muz’s one Id seen I think but promptly forgot about,  good reading.

I like your point modification and would do the same but on Meldon I need the built in spring to overcome the micro switch spring.

I did ponder buying some Das before the lockdown but didn’t, I’m going to experiment with PVA and lightweight filler!

looking good.

 Cheers 

Ade

Indeed the joy of cobalt's is being able to dispense of them but of course at a price. I'm just glad I bought in bulk to make it a little more affordable per motor. 

 

1 hour ago, pirouets said:

Just been reading the piece about the hands off un-coupling method and have to say its written up well enough for me to understand. Looks a straight forward method so will be giving that a go. 

 

1 question and I may have missed it, how strong are the magnets and how did you know the ones on ebay would be the right strength?

With the uncoupling magnets it's been a case of trial and error. I started just by buying some ones that I knew would fit between the sleepers and were around the same depth I didn't really know how strong they would be. 

 

With my first method using the staples grafted onto tension locks I straight away found that more than one was needed at least side by side to account for non standard couplings between different vehicles. With this method I also found it unreliable as you would need quite a few over a long stretch so as to ensure you didn't have to stop in a very precise location. 

 

This led me to move onto my tests with kadee couplings and I found that since the uncoupling whisker is much more substantial that the two magnets  next to each other would do the trick, as it attracts one pin to one magnet and the other vehicle to the other. This makes sure that you are actually getting a movement downwards and to the side due to the placement of the magnet, which appears to be the trick with reliable kadee uncoupling. 

 

I say this but it's still in part theory. Since the lock down and the installation of the magnets I've only been able to push things about. I'm hoping that by using the "kadee shuffle" function that a lot of decoders have on the magnet section, I can find the right spot even if I haven't stopped dead on. 

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 

 

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Ground Cover

 

So I've been continuing with the scenery over the past few days in particular getting layers of paint down on the carriage sidings and the yard.  Although this board is very flat for the most part I'm trying to vary each part according to photos in order create some variety and interest. As can be seen in these photos of the real location..

FB_IMG_1551867680500.jpg.0dda681f8b63f99c72ae1f3e1b92fd83.jpg

 

You can see that the goods yard has a fine gravel/ concrete colour and texture to it in this photo.

 

goodsshedmogul.jpg.aea441f9e0dbbb7afb5428fca022e356.jpg

FB_IMG_1561367808402.jpg.64f24bf34abab50c6d0d3bea93e25df1.jpg

Next to the goods yard it's more of a sandy colour between the tracks which is obviously a lot more dirty.

 

 

The carriage sidings are a fine grit/ ash which is a darker grey colour and as you can see there is even some greenery on some of the carriage sidings that I may add.

 

bufferstops.jpg.13486c3931b28d516a1ebe6faa5d3ebe.jpg

A screenshot from this video shows that there is a orangey colour in some patches of the sidings which I assume is due to clay content in the soil or oxidisation. 

 

 

I therefore added more sand down between the platform and goods yard lines and have blended it in with an airbrush using railmatch sleeper grime.

 

In the carriage sidings I've used various washes of different Grey's, black and brown as well as orangey colour near the ground frame to replicate the photos. 

 

The yard itself has also had varus grey washes. Once i had done these washes I then used sand paper to rub down the layers of paint. I did this more in the goods yard to bring the lighter colours back through. I'm pretty happy with most of the ground now bar the goods yard which is still to have some chinchilla sand added to finally have a dusty top surface. I may also use some weathering powders in some areas to continue adding more texture.

 

You can also see that I've done the first strip of static grass on the side of the goods yard. This was just a basic layer to get an idea but I'll add some longer fibers to blend it all in and once I've added the road below the bank will need the treatment too. I'll probably add some more along the back scene edge and between the sleepers in one of the carriage sidings.

 

Cheers 

 

Pete

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The forecourt conundrum

 

Being that I do not have the space for a full sized version of Ilfracombe I have obviously had to compress the layout into the size available. So far the most obvious compromises have been shortening the platforms and sidings and changing the turntable/ engine shed layout. What I hadn't even realised might be an issue is where the platforms come out to the station forecourt. In real life the station yard and carriage sidings varied in height and there was a smooth transition from the goods yard in particular to the station forecourt. 

 

I however do not have the luxury of space especially in the car park so have to bring the ground level up to platform height and try to blend it into the yard in the best way possible. IMG_20200427_124843-min.jpg.266443173d4438571b8ebf19a33ebfa0.jpg

 

I started by building a card frame with slopes going down at the most  shallow angle possible.

 

IMG_20200427_134857-min.jpg.ccaa321ead81622aa7b060b3a52617bd.jpg

 

These were cross braced and then filled with scrunched up newspaper. I then used masking tape to cover over the entire framework.

 

IMG_20200427_140545-min.jpg.894839a30d187c3f3d0dfdca78062442.jpg

 

You can see here that it gradually slopes down to exit road which goes down the hill into Ilfracombe town. The biggest comprise is the  slopes down into the goods yard. The one at the top will have the storage shed next to it so the slope will hopefully be less obvious once that it done. The near side slope is a lot shallower so should be easier to blend. Next put came the plaster bandages...

 

IMG_20200427_154623-min.jpg.5886aa315d3447753d1f36dddfb49c74.jpg

 

IMG_20200427_154630-min.jpg.bab0bc97be04d62c62b6559223845d6a.jpg

 

These were cut to length and applied over the framework and the entire thing was left to dry.

 

IMG_20200427_174554-min.jpg.5b715ff577ecd3223ac4a8db98913d7b.jpg

 

Time to break out another pack of DAS clay to try to smooth out the slopes. Although this will be a comprise and look different from the real thing,  I'm fairly happy with how this is looking. I was thinking about cutting the corner of the board out to give and impression of the slope at the end of the carpark. This is where the stairs going down to the town were as seen in this picture.

 

IMG_20200427_223650-min.jpg.3081e044f38635acd5e527236eaa3e6e.jpg

 

The station building is actually over two stories sitting on the edge of the hill. An unforeseen positive to me having to move the ground level up is I now might not have to cut a hole in the board. 

 

IMG_20200427_223716-min.jpg.f78cb9957b22eae09ca5a5ca6dd4b8a7.jpg

 

I may be able to create an impression of the start of the slope now and the staircase going down to the town. I may still make a cut depending on what I want to do with the end of the station building but for now it can be left as is while I work on the rest. The plaster and the DAS should now be drying and hopefully by tomorrow I can assess what needs to be done next. 

 

Thanks again 

 

Pete 

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Today I've made some more progress although i have been somewhat limited as we have a power cut for most of the day. The electrician's have now made a mound of earth about the same scale as what I've been building on the layout it seems.

 

IMG_20200428_155259-min.jpg.261df6b3b52db5b9876347183d4238fa.jpg

 

In my previous posts I had started work on the platforms however I had forgotten a key feature of Ilfracombe was that the original platforms are made from stone and brick and that the ends of the platform were made from the concrete pre cast platforms that in real life came from Exmouth junction further up the line.

 

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Where the release crossover is it's still brick so I ordered some more peco plain platform edges and went about sticking them together and cutting out the sections for the rodding again. 

 

IMG_20200428_143912-min.jpg.33d8a4e48747cb9b16f92cdbc8ce9ac1.jpg

 

Speaking of the point rodding I today gave them a coat of silver paint to give them a galvanised steel look and then put black over the stools and hinges where they would be greased in real life. I'll probably give them a little bit of weathering further down the line.

 

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My plan with the smooth platform edges is to ads a thin layer of DAS clay to them and then scribe the brickwork onto it once dried. Having studied my collection of photos the two sides seem to differ slightly. It's also worth noting that the concrete extensions seem to start at different points on each platform face which I can only assume was because one side may have needed replacing.

 

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DAS clay applied on one of the sides and it will be left over night to dry. I'll have a go at this one first to check that this method works then try the other one ( it's also really tedious work laying down all this clay).

 

IMG_20200428_155249-min.jpg.9a8ff8507ccd6f36f03039c19dc605fa.jpg

 

I plan on scribing these patterns into each of the platform faces and will then paint them up. 

 

Thanks again 

 

Pete 

Edited by PeteN92
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Work has continued with the platforms once the clay had dried. 

 

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I copied the pattern i had drawn out from the photos onto the surface using a pointed file to make grooves into the surface. First was the bricks.

 

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And then the rough stone at the bottom of the wall.

 

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The front of the platform complete. So I tacked it down onto the baseboard and took a few shots with it in place. 

 

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I'm pretty happy with how this one has come out. I've still got to paint it as per the photos so will use a brick/ brown colour and then wash a cream colour for the morter. Finally I'll pick out some bricks in different colours.

 

I've also got the other side to do which is much longer and even though you won't see it once it's in I'll know it's there.

 

Cheers again Pete 

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A daft question, not sure if you are on Facebook, but there is a nice group about the line railway to ilfracombe which you might find interesting (apologies if you have already seen it)

 

Really interesting layout. When i eventually get home at the end of the month (hopefully) will dig out a couple of views for you. 

 

 

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On 03/04/2020 at 23:40, PeteN92 said:

Next up was to paint and build the groundframe that was used for the run around points in the platform. I used a wills kit and found a spare figure which I botched to make him fit the correct pose. 

 

IMG_20200403_124621.jpg.36d76eedc78a045eb8b81a30d2e41bbc.jpgHere is the end result Frank has just pulled the point lever and is about to lock the points with the blue FPL. The purple line on the board shows where the point rodding will soon go to the other end of the crossover. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've only just come across this thread, so I may be a bit late now, but.....

 

Photographic evidence shows no indication of an FPL on the engine release crossover, nor would I have expected one as essentially it was a trailing point  for most movements.

 

Photos shows that lever 1 (the left-hand lever) had a short handle. This would have been purely the release lever for the GF, released by 27 in the signal-box, and painted blue/brown. Full-length lever 2 (black) was the points. All the locking was at the back of the frame and encased in a  cover.

 

 Sorry about the poor quality of the photo!

 

GF.jpg

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1 hour ago, RailWest said:

I've only just come across this thread, so I may be a bit late now, but.....

 

Photographic evidence shows no indication of an FPL on the engine release crossover, nor would I have expected one as essentially it was a trailing point  for most movements.

 

Photos shows that lever 1 (the left-hand lever) had a short handle. This would have been purely the release lever for the GF, released by 27 in the signal-box, and painted blue/brown. Full-length lever 2 (black) was the points. All the locking was at the back of the frame and encased in a  cover.

 

 Sorry about the poor quality of the photo!

 

GF.jpg

Ahh that explains why some photos have two and obviously the later ones once the box was closed has just the single one for the point. Looks like I can reinstate the extra lever and paint them up appropriately. Thanks for the info.

 

Cheers

 

Pete 

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The 2-lever frame was a standard S.R 'knee' type, released electrically from the SB.

When the box was closed it was replaced by a 1-lever BR(WR) type, unlocked by an Annetts Key on the end of the OES train staff, as seen in this even worse photo :-)

GF-WR.jpg

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4 hours ago, RailWest said:

The 2-lever frame was a standard S.R 'knee' type, released electrically from the SB.

When the box was closed it was replaced by a 1-lever BR(WR) type, unlocked by an Annetts Key on the end of the OES train staff.

After removing Frank and the ground frame I re added the extra lever and painted that black, cut down the original lever and painted it brown and then constructed the housing around the frame from plasticard. Once all this one done I re attached the extra plate that had fallen off and added a foot to it for support made from a cocktail stick. All that was left to do was the put it back in the opposite way round to what I had before and voila.

 

IMG_20200505_130016.jpg.b2db70b5ecab2d3bb3def599ded2e2de.jpg

 

IMG_20200505_130537.jpg.2f7a8e42ae4d0d298ec2f3e72fbdfb57.jpg

 

Cheers again 

 

Pete 

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