Jump to content
 

Recommended Posts

I've been working on the end of the platform which has involved some curvature. So I don't have to rip it up and move the platforms like last time, this time got the two widest carriages and worked out the required distances needed. Fingers crossed this will solve any gauging issues although I'm still a bit worried about GWR locos. For now I don't have any so I can't check, but in the future I'll get a couple to add to the timetable, hopefully they will fit....

 

IMG_20200822_202216__01.jpg.62453dd731728c8cc117dc54c6c311cb.jpg

Ready for the off.

 

I've also given the canopy a coat of cream, next I need to mask that up so I can spray the rest of the support beams green then glue the 3d printed columns to the structure. 

 

IMG_20200822_202051.jpg.2b1224ce68d5ab224663ddf985d50137.jpg

 

And just for fun I lined them up to get an idea of what you'll soon see from the end of the platform.

 

IMG_20200822_202029.jpg.3b90cf1830b39f71a7f310fd1e488f85.jpg

 

I need to order some more coping stones from scale model scenery to finish the edging. This part will also have telegraph poles, flower beds and a sandy covering added. As you can see the signal is also a work in progress.

IMG_20200822_202011.jpg.e266bc35b2b54d808be90082943533f0.jpg

 

Cheers 

 

Pete

Edited by PeteN92
Spelling
  • Like 9
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
6 hours ago, roundhouse said:

There is another nice shot on facebook taken from the bufferstops under the canopy with a baby Warship that was posted overnight.

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10158859046389343&set=gm.2755172391249074

 

any chance of a screen shot for those of us not on F-arsebook?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Although Steam is more my thing I must admit I have been tempted to add an extra time period to layout.  With the line under Western control and with Hydraulics and DMUs running. So far I'm planning on running it as the summer of 54 with the last Devon Belle and crimson and cream stock and then another time period of the Summer of 1961 with everything back in BR/SR Green and maroon/ choc and cream GWR stock. 

 

Hmm as if I don't have enough locos already  :nono:

 

Pete

  • Like 8
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Finally some solid progress to report after finding that I had a million different things on the go at once I set my self the task of actually fully completing something. 

 

I've therefore been working on the station canopy painting and glazing. The front has had the telegraph fittings added and now just requires the signage which is currently being worked on. 

 

Tonight saw the first test fit and I'm really happy with the results. 

 

IMG_20201025_181633.jpg.d423170103f4f94361cd84e3b5b4c84f.jpg

 

IMG_20201025_181710.jpg.7dc6150664edfd75c303ee00b90d0457.jpg

 

The cub scouts form part of a scene which I have copied from a photo taken in the 50s the end part of the station still needs painting and ground texture added and the part of the station with the canopy will also need to have the hard platform surface completed. 

 

I have also been putting together my laser cut windbreak kit that I designed and had laser cut by York model making. 

 

IMG_20201025_112223.jpg.89f3a1b1f1b67fddfa34a87a3e2528b9.jpg

 

This will hopefully also be joining the rest of the layout soon. 

 

The goods store still needs completing and then it will be time to move onto the station building itself. 

 

Its just been my birthday and my girlfriend treated me to a very special present that I will be putting to good use from here on in. 

 

IMG_20201025_181904.jpg.7eab26f2312a14429c1adfab298a2398.jpg

 

 

Cheers 

 

Pete

IMG_20201025_181758.jpg

Edited by PeteN92
Image
  • Like 16
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 07/02/2019 at 21:55, PeteN92 said:

Tonight I started on laying down the cork base. I ordered a couple of packs of 4mm cork floor tiles from the site that delivers next day and they seem to look like fairly decent quality cork. Before I was able to start laying the tiles down, I had to mark out where the turntable would go and then remove the print outs of the track plan.

 

Next I drilled a hole into the board and then used a jigsaw to go around the guide that I had previously drawn.  With a little bit of adjustment and filing the turntable slotted in nice and snug into the baseboard. I will leave it as a snug fit for the time being and possibly for the long run as it would allow me to do maintenance if needed. On the first baseboard I had account for the fact that the turntable would be in the way of the cross braces, I therefore built this board slightly differently to account for this. I'm pleased to report that even with the hole there is no flex with in the 9mm ply (something that I had come across when cutting holes into my old 6mm ply baseboards.)

 

The turntable itself came from my childhood model railway and had been battered about when removed and in storage. I had previously emailed PECO asking if they had any spares and they graciously sent me some new wheels leaving me just to fashion some new axles.  I did this by finding a nail the same size as the steel rods that came with the kit and then cutting them down with a Carborundum slitting disc.  Fingers crossed everything holds up without too much further modification. I plan on using a Locomotech drive mechanism to power the table and will order that in due course.  

 

And this is how it looks:  

 

IMG_20190207_212617.jpg.d3571279e53762ee29e11c8ee1dc571a.jpg

 

In time I may add some further details to the turntable to change it from the generic design that many people have. Ilfracombe turntable was considered by many drivers as the "The Best in the West" and was known for being well balanced.  By modifying the PECO kit I hope to have a more unique looking turntable. 

 

turntable-ilfracombe-engine-shed-1950s-14616789.jpg.6e3f167429e616469e40c5da1f709ec7.jpg

 

Next I started to lay the cork flooring tiles down cutting them to size to get around the turntable and around where the baseboards drop down for the embankment. I completed the first two baseboards but ran out of heavy objects so thought it best to leave it there for the day and to let everything dry thoroughly. 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading 

 

Pete 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I only just spotted your thread. Dad only has one Ilfracombe photo in his albums and it must be taken from a spot near the one you have.  There is also a lot of steam blowing about but just in case it is of interest you can see it at http://www.ipernity.com/doc/philsutters/26520201

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, phil_sutters said:

I only just spotted your thread. Dad only has one Ilfracombe photo in his albums and it must be taken from a spot near the one you have.  There is also a lot of steam blowing about but just in case it is of interest you can see it at http://www.ipernity.com/doc/philsutters/26520201

Cheers Phil it's always great to see more photos and I can now add taw valley to the list of locos spotted at Ilfracombe. 

 

Cheers 

 

Pete

  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Pete

 

Your Ilfracombe layout is coming on a treat.

 

I don’t know if you go onto Facebook but there is a group on there Called 

Railways of Devon & Cornwall, I have seen some nice photos of Ilfracombe station on there.

 

May be useful for reference.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Regards 

 

David

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • PeteN92 changed the title to Ilfracombe in 00 - Adventures in 3d resin printing
On 27/10/2020 at 08:24, landscapes said:

Hi Pete

 

Your Ilfracombe layout is coming on a treat.

 

I don’t know if you go onto Facebook but there is a group on there Called 

Railways of Devon & Cornwall, I have seen some nice photos of Ilfracombe station on there.

 

May be useful for reference.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Regards 

 

David

 

 

 

Hi David I do have Facebook as it comes in good use for research photos feel free to link to that group as I couldn't find it on the search.

 

Thanks to others who are taking the time to have a look a what I'm trying to recreate all the comments are very encouraging that I'm getting it right. 

 

My girlfriend bought me an elgoo mars resin 3d printer for my birthday and I've been having a little play with it.

 

IMG-20201030-WA0015.jpg.324cfea267ee3011e5164aa9054be4f2.jpg

 

From this to.....

 

IMG-20201030-WA0014.jpg.e8f27034bcc986ba1dd2b13015feee2d.jpg

 

First up we have some NEM pockets as I'm in the process of adding kadees to all of my stock. A lot of the older Hornby bulleid Pacifics in particular need these adding. I've designed these myself based off the ones that come with Hornby couplings and can adjust the design for different heights on models if needed. This is the MK2 version as the first print I did was a little snug. 

 

IMG-20201030-WA0016__01.jpg.034b5cc08f3926651accaa5dbbee52e8.jpg

 

The station windbreak has now been constructed from my bespoke laser cut kit I designed and was produced by York model making . I ended up using the 3d printed to print the concrete plinth at the bottom of the canopy to give a more detailed shape. This was printed in 3 interlocking sections then glued together. The 3d printed base just needs a blast of primer and then attaching to the canopy before putting it into place at the end of the station.

 

IMG_20201030_195807.jpg.598991dd7312310fa1c0367403cecad9.jpg

 

I also thought it would be fun to try printing something small and detailed I found the STL files for a terrier online and have printed two of them off to represent my family dogs. These first two are not to 00 scale as they are about the size of a saint Bernard. This goes to prove that animals and figures should be possible to print. I'm planning on looking at how to 3d scan in people using an Xbox kinect in order to produce figures similar to how modelu does theres.

 

I've done some design work for more of the station canopy beams as Ilfracombe had another completely different style for the station forecourt that have triangle brackets around a round post. This takes the count up to 3 so far on the different columns I will have designed and produced. 

 

All in all I'm pretty happy with how the 3d printing is going and it looks like its going to be a valuable tool in continuing the build. If anyone is interested into me going into more detail of the design and process id be happy to show more detail.

 

Cheers

 

Pete 

 

IMG-20201030-WA0020__01.jpg

  • Like 15
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
23 hours ago, PeteN92 said:

 

All in all I'm pretty happy with how the 3d printing is going and it looks like its going to be a valuable tool in continuing the build. If anyone is interested into me going into more detail of the design and process id be happy to show more detail.

Hi Pete,

Looking rather good now, I’ve definitely been toying with first learning CAD then probably shipping off the files to be printed by someone. But heard small quantities are expensive and printers getting ever cheaper so owning your own could be the way. Was only looking at downloading something this morning, toying with Fusion 360, Tinkercad, Inkscape for starters! Be good for you to do a how you go about it.

 Cheers 

Ade

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 26/08/2020 at 09:48, PeteN92 said:

Although Steam is more my thing I must admit I have been tempted to add an extra time period to layout.  With the line under Western control and with Hydraulics and DMUs running. So far I'm planning on running it as the summer of 54 with the last Devon Belle and crimson and cream stock and then another time period of the Summer of 1961 with everything back in BR/SR Green and maroon/ choc and cream GWR stock. 

 

Hmm as if I don't have enough locos already  :nono:

 

Pete

 

That sounds like a good mix.

 

Out of curiosity, which Hydraulics and DMUs are you thinking of running?

Link to post
Share on other sites

For my birthday, my lovely girlfriend was strong-armed into getting me a Resin 3D Printer. After doing some research I decided that a good entry one would be the Elgoo Mars which at the time was selling for under £200. This type of 3D uses a vat of resin and cures the layers via a UV light. The model attaches onto the build plate and the 3D print is slowly layer by layer pulled out of the vat of resin until the print is complete and your left with your object upside down. This is known as SLA which stands for Stereolithography apparatus. This differs from PLA printing where you use a spool of material, that is heated up and built onto the build plate, by a nozzle in layers.

 

IMG-20201030-WA0015.jpg.8092b3c2a6fd28a6c27006a03c738b93.jpg

 

First off you need to have a file to print. These are known as STL files as that is the file format the 3D printer recognises. These can either be sourced online via sites such as thingiverse.com where creators upload their designs, some for free and some paid for. Alternatively, you can learn to draw and design things yourself, like I have done to create bespoke items. 

 

Take for example this canopy support at Ilfracombe. I first look and see how the various components could be broken up. The brackets will be one, the fluted base another, and finally the column.

 

pillars.jpg.fe70c48f5567cd8c0aacfc80e8078822.jpg

 

 

 

I use Sketchup Free online as I don’t have to pay anything for it and there is plenty of videos on YouTube so you can learn the basics and work with the limitations of the free version. There is other software such as fusion 3d however they are paid for. If you were going to design something really complex you might need these but so far, I have got away with using the free version of sketchup.

 

All the components drawn into sketchup. I’ve added slots and supports for everything to fit together rather than just gluing it all together with butt joints.

 

1120718358_2020-11-04(1).png.431ffe11d0ff63a7362ba5a30d949935.png

 

 

Scaling can be tricky, but I use a scale ruler to try and work out sizes and once printed you can eyeball it to see if it looks right.  The software does allow you to be very precise however so if you have dimensions for the thing you are drawing you can just draw using them at full size and scale the model at the end of the process. 

It is important to note that at this stage the software sees your drawing as several lines and faces. Once you are happy with what you have you either need to group them into individual components or as a group. This avoids complications later in the process where the slicing software or 3d printer can get confused.  Sketchup then allows you to export the file as an .STL file to your computer.

 

We now use a programme that comes with the 3D printer but is also a free programme that you can download without purchasing called CHITUBOX. This programme lets you prepare the file you have creating for 3D printing by letting you add support material to aid your print in coming out without any defects and edit your 3D model. When importing your model into the software it sees the design as a solid object and will print it as such. Somethings this would be a massive waste of resin and would make the object awfully expensive and heavy to print with a much higher chance of failure. The software therefore allows you to hollow out your model if you want and add drain holes for the liquid resin inside the model to drain out.

 

1097637521_2020-11-04(2).png.6fdffb7bdaf8ffd43f52a5abe737670a.png

The model as drawn now in the slicing software. First up the components need angling around 30 degrees as this allows more support structures to attach to the model and will ensure a more accurate print.

 

2106143516_2020-11-04(3).png.b69e03231a5fc7572e94fdbcfdaf98ea.png

The software allows you to add light medium and heavy supports. And will automatically do this for you. Bear in mind light will leave less marks when you come to remove the material however the heavier supports will support the model more therefore ensuring you do not get a failed print. In this situation I used medium auto supports.

 

855781877_2020-11-04(4).png.6852db474fea97e8c7e3aeee6df45805.png

Auto- support is a good tool when getting started however its not perfect see here where it has missed the corner of the bracket. You may get a warped corner, so I manually add in a light support where the green line is to ensure this does not happen.

 

544399966_2020-11-04(5).png.f25f07c563ed122521a9fbbd7f3fa41d.png

 

Once happy with the supports its time for the software to doing some slicing. This is where it works out how it will print each layer of the model. As you can see by these screenshots, we first have the base layer which will stick onto the build plate. This layer is exposed much longer than the others to ensure it adheres properly. On another layer we see where it is creating the supports as well as the actual model. And finally, near one of the last few layers we see the model being completed. On the right you also get an indication of how long the print will take and the cost estimate. You can add in the cost of the resin you are using, and it therefore works this out for you. All that is left to do is to save the sliced file onto the memory stick provided with the Elgoo Mars and you are ready for printing.

 

487863242_2020-11-04(6).png.6e4fc19adb80ee5c52cc4101e1ece9aa.png

1998508671_2020-11-04(7).png.0f4ddcca258aa1f0960e764634c4f6fe.png

1503643756_2020-11-04(8).png.d821879f62fde8f5615005c43736d93a.png

 

So, you just stick your memory stick into the back of the 3D printer, select your file, click print, and off it goes. Now its time to wait and see.

 

IMG-20201030-WA0014.jpg.81b6e50472d7ec512cbd87bcc682f3c9.jpg

 

 

This shows the model upside down on the build plate once printing has completed. You then get your rubber gloves and mask on as the resin is not great for your lungs or your skin. The build plate unscrews from the machine and you use the included scraper to detach the print and drop it into a tub of 99% isopropyl alcohol. This washes off all the remaining wet resin.  Next dunk the model in a water bath to ensure that all the remains of the resin are gone. At this point the model is still not fully cured so be careful when handling.

Finally, you need to cure the model this can be done naturally by leaving it in the sun therefore soaking up the UV rays or I use my mums UV nail curing light. A couple of minutes and the model is all cured. You can then gently pull the model / use the sprue cutters to remove your print from the support material and then clean up any marks by sanding or a small file.

 

IMG_20201105_094505.jpg.2301d66fddf217eecd95db3df9468deb.jpg

 

It has taken a couple of adjustments to the design to get everything printing perfect and all the parts fitting together but that is the joy of having your own 3D printer. Previously I have designed parts and sent away to have the printed only to find that they have had some error when printing that could not be adjusted. In the background you can see that I have also 3D printed the concrete plinth to the wind break at Ilfracombe.

I hope this article allows people to get an idea of the process that is involved and encourage others to have a go. My next plan involves using a camera to 3D scan objects and people in the same vein as Modelu and then I will be able to print them too.

 

Cheers 

 

Pete

  • Like 5
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've also now painted and glued on the 3d printed base to the wind break. The last thing to go on will be the acetate windows. 

 

IMG_20201105_170812.jpg.a21f4061a0bcdf908f6b2c314d55d80b.jpg

 

IMG_20201105_170806.jpg.0f02b3365ce98bef0d5e37eebdafd76f.jpg

 

IMG_20201105_170758.jpg.6e4343cf7e40c7a47147eb980bb02a0c.jpg

 

I will be making the canopy in this area from scratch probably using the 3d printer again to help make some things easier.

 

Cheers 

 

Pete

  • Like 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Jack Benson
On 14/02/2019 at 21:54, PeteN92 said:

Auto-uncoupling

 

After laying down the rest of the cork tiles on the final board I thought I would keep myself occupied while they were drying. I had read up and watched a couple of videos on Youtube about how to make auto-uncouplers by modifying tension lock couplings and using neodymium magnets. 

 

I ordered a few magnets on Ebay to have a play around and attached a magnet beneath the rails. I put the screw into the block of wood so that I didn't have to glue the magnet down on this test piece. 

 

IMG_20190213_165137_opt.jpg.566be389a3a24542cfdf736ccfddfaf8.jpg

 

I took some small staples that I had lying about the house cut one end off then bent one end to 45 degrees. By bending the staple in this way it forces the magnet magnet to drag the hook upwards when the staple is attracted to it. Once the staple is bent i removed the coupling hook from each of my wagons and superglued the staple on flush with the bottom of the hook. 

 

IMG_20190213_165315_opt.jpg.2ca4dccae1038c77da7e8733e8739c75.jpg                                                           IMG_20190213_165011_opt.jpg.ca13e4cf728a215458c08fa4e4d3d3e1.jpg

 

After leaving this to dry I attached the couplings back on and tested over the magnet to ensure it moved on its own and then uncoupled with another wagon. Where I have a couple of different couplings from different manufacturers I found that certain staples needed adjustment to ensure that they were close enough to the magnet to make sure that it fully lifted.

 

IMG_20190213_165023_opt.jpg.0bc7cab0d6751cba5c597cb6b3c60c94.jpg                                                           IMG_20190213_165052_opt.jpg.a796478181167c6397a077fd0838aca2.jpg

 

In the space of an evening I managed to fit all of my wagons with this modification and I hope to do the same to the ends of my coach sets. I will also need to remove the hooks from my locos as it will make uncoupling more efficient and with a maximum train length of four coaches on my layout there should be more than enough tension to keep everything coupled up. It is also worth noting that unless you are driving at a very slow speed or have stopped over the magnet they will not uncouple. When I fit the magnets to the track I may in some places add more than one magnet in an "uncoupling section" you can increase the size simply by adding more magnets next to each other. 

 

I hope you people find this informative

 

Thanks Again 

 

Pete 

Pete,

 

How did this work out? Did you have remove one of the hooks from each pair of couplings?

 

Cheers and Stay Safe

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 18/11/2020 at 14:09, Jack Benson said:

Pete,

 

How did this work out? Did you have remove one of the hooks from each pair of couplings?

 

Cheers and Stay Safe

Although it seems great as a cheap alternative I found that the paperclips where forever catching and falling off and also the process of modifying the couplings often left them not pivoting as smooth as before I had started this led to unreliable coupling and uncoupling. I have since then embarked on the more costly option of fitting everything with Kadee couplings. I am in the process of 3D printing any NEM pockets that older stock may need.  

You can see on my other topic on how I've recently done some for my Light Pacific tenders. 

 

I have also been designing a few other 3d printed pieces in order to modify the Peco turntable to look a bit more like the one at Ilfracombe.  There was a lot of frame work coming out from the turntable bridge which in fact extended to the edge of the well and then dropped down to the wheels that ran on the runners.  This structure aslo led to the Ilfracombe turntable having a revolving handrail that moved with the turntable. Now I wont be modifying how the table works mechanically as its already been enough trouble getting it working as it is but I will modify how it looks to fake it.  I will be designing the supports that go out from the turntable deck and then hope to build the supporting structure around the outside which will be able to glide around the inside of the well. I may also then be able to have the moving handrails but we shall see how fancy I can get. 

 

turntable-ilfracombe-engine-shed-1950s-14616789.jpg.fb17e8bf431b4192189834b61022e340.jpg

 

 

First up was a wheel that appears at the end of the bridge 

 

2098107607_2020-11-23(1).png.2a0adf55494fa69ed7df1b823eb53bb9.png

 

Then the centre support, this took a couple of prints to get right as firstly its just a tad longer than the length of my printer's print area. And secondly I found it did not have adequate support material and wasn't at enough of an angle to get a good quality print.  

 

2020-11-23.png.eb32c54b7f6bd1f4fd513ac4e33b6af2.png

 

A before and after of my measurements and sketches 

 

IMG_20201123_112924.jpg.69babfe885b93f6f0a31a67b3784eabd.jpg

 

The first strut tacked in place and the wheel being glued in place to the deck. I have since printed the opposite side support and now need to design and printed another 12 or so supports before fitting it all together. IMG_20201124_094859.jpg.ff8bfd452b726cab394244b6dd06bf01.jpg

 

Cheers 

 

Pete 

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Pete,

 

It still amazes me that it’s possible to find threads on RMweb that I have completely missed. Looks like you are doing some great work here.

 

I’m also doing a bit of a representation of Ilfracombe as part of my layout and wondered whether you’d be interested in coming to some sort of commercial agreement to replicate some of the pieces you've designed such as the wind break and canopy columns?

 

Rgds

 

Russell Davies

 

Edited by dessire_luvals
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Pete

 

Have a look at the latest addition of the Back Track magazine?

 

There is a great article on Ilfracombe Station with many coloured photos.

 

Not sure if it’s available in a digital version I saw it in my local WH Smith’s store yesterday.

 

Regards

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...