Chubber Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Hullo Ladies and Gentlemen, can anyone advise me whether or not an 8ft x 2ft piece of the above will be 'self supporting' as baseboard material if supported at 18" centres across its width but not at the front and back long sides? Additionally, I presume I can peel off the aluminium foil on each side? I know it comes in all sorts of thicknesses, but would like to use 25mm as a SEEP actuator arm will protrude enough to be useful even with a ballast shoulder on top. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 I doubt if it would be strong enough without full support, especially if you remove the foil which acts as a strengthening member. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 I too would suspect you will require some bracing. As above, removing the foil will weaken it. I have tried Celotex type stuff for a baseboard in the past but didn't take the project forward. Its definitely useable but I would recommend bracing and potentially also facing in ply too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
73c Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Kingspan and Celotex are like a thick foam board. No real strength ( unless greater than 25mm ) and even less with the foil removed, which would be a pain to do! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ian Posted February 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) Removing the foil from one side makes it warp. Removing from both sides makes a weak sheet that will crumble if you give it a hard stare. Extruded polystyrene (XPS) comes in various grades - something like Knauff Floormate is required but you will need to face with thin ply to protect the edges. Edited February 11, 2019 by ian 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold pheaton Posted February 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2019 Also bear in mind that you wont be able to pin track down very easily and you won't be able to use solvent anywhere on the board. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted February 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2019 Kingspan/Celotex is pretty rubbish once you peel the foil off. It doesn't crumble but it does warp badly. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 Thank you to all for your considerations, I think I will steer clear of the stuff, at least for the purpose I have considered above. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 4 minutes ago, Chubber said: Thank you to all for your considerations, I think I will steer clear of the stuff, at least for the purpose I have considered above. Doug It doesn't have to go to waste though - potential for landscape forming? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 Thanks, S_T, I have not yet bought same, but seems ideal for land forms, especially in bits from a local building site skip! Doug 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TheQ Posted February 12, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2019 If you use much thicker say 75mm then with cross bearers and a thin ply surround to protect the edges it will work. As for fitting point motors, you just mount the motor on a piece of plywood say 4 inches square, hollow out from the bottom of the foam and glue it in place. I believe that is done on the Gravett's Pempoul layout. The alternative is mount point motors on the backboard and use wire in tube to the points.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 33 minutes ago, TheQ said: you just mount the motor on a piece of plywood say 4 inches square, hollow out from the bottom of the foam and glue it in place. Thank you, that is worth considering. At that thickness it would sculpt for subtle level changes, and track pinned/glued to stuck down card or thin ply etc.. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Oban Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 On 12/02/2019 at 17:12, TheQ said: If you use much thicker say 75mm then with cross bearers and a thin ply surround to protect the edges it will work. As for fitting point motors, you just mount the motor on a piece of plywood say 4 inches square, hollow out from the bottom of the foam and glue it in place. I believe that is done on the Gravett's Pempoul layout. The alternative is mount point motors on the backboard and use wire in tube to the points.. Have a look at Ken Pattersons' 'What' Neat this Week' on Youtube. It's a monthly programme which has been going for several years, and although American, a lot of techniques are applicable to British modellers. Ken's is a professional model photographer and uses foam board to produce dioramas of various sizes to photograph models and his personal layout has foam baseboards. Well-worth watching, even if just to see him clean his dioramas with a hosepipe! Roja 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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