Phoenix Coach Building Advice

[The Fatadder]

I am looking for a bit of advice as to the best way to build a Phoenix coach kit.

 

Having just purchased a kit for a J12 sleeper from ebay, I am looking to build it over the next couple of weeks.  However while I would be perfectly happy with a full brass kit, I have never worked on anything similar to the Phoenix product and would welcome advice as to how best to proceed.  

 

I assume door gaps are scribed on with a knife?

 

What is the best adhesive to use, Evostick or Epoxey?

 

Are there any common pitfalls to be aware of?

 

Finally, can anyone confirm what bogies are required for a J12 

 

thanks 

 

[Devo63]

I have built a number of BSL/Phoenix kits over the years (but not a J12) and usually used 2 part epoxy glues for assembly. For the door scribing I used an old school compass with the steel tip filed to a very small wedge shape. The thickness of the scribed lines must be sufficient that they don't disappear completely after painting. Hinges are usually made of short sections of thin wire super glued at the appropriate places. The J12 only has three doors so it is easier than most of the range. The last BSL kit I built was a ten compartment 70' 3rd and getting all the doors accurately inscribed was a challenge.

 

My personal preference for glazing is to use various sizes of microscope cover slips as I've always thought that nothing looks better for glass than glass itself. The clear plastic strip supplied with the kits tends to scratch if not handled carefully.

 

The J12 was fitted with 12'6" six wheeled bogies. 247 Developments list this type - item C488 - but last time I looked they were marked as "Available for Pre Order". Others may be available from other makers.   

 

Dave R.

[The Fatadder]

Thanks for that, will have a quick check of the Comet range else drop 247 an email.   The same seller had a 70ft third for sale at the same price and I was mighty tempted, in the end the thought of scribing all of those doors put me off thinking I would rather pay the extra and go for a Comet kit. 

[Steamport Southport]

Larry Goddard always recommended Evostik.

 

As for the bogies. Ask Mozzer in the 247 Developments thread or by email. Unless he's at a show he normally replies pretty quickly.

 

I know what people mean about BSL/Phoenix coaches and them being a lot of work. I've got a pair of LMS non corridors with loads of doors to do. There is also an LNER panelled coach somewhere which just had strips of plastikard for the panelling. Cheap purchases, but involve a lot of work.

 

 

Jason

[Coach bogie]

I have been using Ex BSL/Phoenix for many years and. as mentioned previously, they are all Evostock construction.

 

Recently I have been using the old wooden roof BSL. After a visit to Pendon, I was shown that by filling the join to the white metal ends and sanding down the join mark disappears. A train appeared on the vale seen and I was asked which of the coaches was BSL/Phoenix. The answer - ALL of them, such is the importance of BSL/Phoenix to the GWR modeller.

 

It has taken many years, but I have a complete 1929 stock Torbay express. You can only make this from BSL as most diagrams have not been available from anyone else. on the plus side, the recess door handles are castings saving lots of time forming grab handles etc

.

 

I have just finished a couple of 70 footers, one is below. I use ex Airfix autocoach bogies as they are correct for the South Wales Stock.

 

Yes you have to mark out the doors, drill the handles and add hinges (I glue microstrip). To scribe the doors I use a blunt pierce saw blade and a set square. Below is a three compartment Collett. As Hornby only make the four compartment, there is a place for the old BSL.

 

Just nearing completion is a BSL H25 diner, from sides/roof I was given, (owner was going to throw them away). This uses the BSL H33 body (same as Hornby railroad). It is a wooden roof version. Sides glued to roof, New bespoke flat ends made from plasticard (there were no ends in the kit given), and all sanded flush as per Pendon. Fittings were in the kit. the underframe/trusses are from 247 (Gary Wells days) as he did a brilliant GWR underframe set consisting of trusses, battery boxes, Vac cylinders, dynamo etc. I only have a couple left. I wish I had bought more. Bogies are 247 as well.

 

 

 

 

One question to myself, I have never really answered. With the metal roof kits, do I put the roof on last (much easier when making interior) or glue to sides/ends before painting (stronger bond)? I have done both as there are pros and cons for each.

 

Good luck

 

Mike Wiltshire

Edited February 17, 2019 by Coach bogie

[hayfield]

I have built 3 or 4 of these and have several old part made kits bought in a box in the loft. These are what I would call a model makers kit, as you can see from Mike's wonderful craftsmanship can be the basis of a highly detailed model. Or can be built quite simply.  So its the modellers choice how much effort/detail they wish to include

 

 

In the past we would have used either Evostick or two part epoxy, now I would start off with a rapid mitre bond glue, perhaps reinforcing with two part epoxy or one of the modern No Nails type of adhesives where necessary.