Ruston Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 I like it. Is the body hollow so that you can get plenty of weight inside? I would imagine that it weighs next to nothing otherwise. How do you find the mechanism noise-wise? I had a phase of fitting those N20 motors but I've found them to be very noisy in operation and not as smooth in starting and stopping as a High Level gearbox. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 Thanks. That's high praise! Hopefully you can see from the photo there isn't loads of room inside once you have a dcc chip as I do, but I filled the tanks with liquid gravity and made a couple of compartments between the frames for some more, so it's got enough weight for my modest shunting needs. Yes, I've found the gearmotor to be much noisier than almost any other loco I have l which is a bit of a drawback! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Hi..would the gear motor be a bit quieter if the gearbox was 'boxed in'? Perhaps with plasticard? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin Streeting Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 that can make them echo alot, as acts as a sound board. i found lowering voltage can help. and also getting right one with gear ratio to suit.. took 3 diferernt ones to find right one for beam engine and thats running at 20% max speed.. 100% is noise as f.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 My Garratt uses 300rpm N20s - it's very quiet at low speed but does get quite noisy when you crank it up, so probably best not to use a ratio that requires much more than half power? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 10, 2019 Author Share Posted May 10, 2019 Visually it's now all finished besides a little weathering. However frustratingly when I was running it last night the motor worked itself loose again. So I think I'm going to have to have a radical rethink about how it is fixed in. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 Finished! I fixed the motor problem using milliput to make a better cradle for it and using wire to hold it in place. All seems to be fine now, although in the process I seem to have knackered the decoder. A dusting of weathering and some coal on the tank top finishes it off. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 Nice job, sorry to hear about your motor issues. I have to say that on my test build model I had no problems at all with the motor bracket. Having used FUD for quite a few more complex printed chassis (usually layshafts, worms and belt or gear from motor to layshaft) in 9mm, 12mm and 16.5mm gauges before it is certainly strong enough and resilient in my experience, using the gearmotor simplified the chassis considerably, but if you did prefer a high level box or similar the motor bracket can be removed with a piercing saw or similar to leave room. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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