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Railmatch Paint lid stuck!


sb67
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Does anybody know how I could free a couple of lids on some Railmatch Paints. They havent been used for ages and have stuck fast! Tried holding the lids in a vice but that didn't work. At the moment I've squirted WD40 around the thread hoping it will find it's way to the paint and free it. I fear I might have to break the kids off and decant the paint into another jar.

Steve.

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If the thinners suggested by Paul80  aren't successful, use Revell Painta Clean. This will break the bond between the dried paint and the glass bottle. Eventually!

 

Railmatch paint lids are not a problem if you treat them properly, in much the same way as Humbrol and Revell paint tinlets. Before you replace the lid, make sure that every last drop of paint has been removed from the interior of the lid and the rim of the container, where the two touch. If there's no paint there it can't harden and stick them together. Since I realised that I've had no more problems with either type of container and lid, and I use quite a few.

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1 hour ago, Mick Bonwick said:

Railmatch paint lids are not a problem if you treat them properly, in much the same way as Humbrol and Revell paint tinlets. Before you replace the lid, make sure that every last drop of paint has been removed from the interior of the lid and the rim of the container, where the two touch. If there's no paint there it can't harden and stick them together. Since I realised that I've had no more problems with either type of container and lid, and I use quite a few.

Treat them "properly"?

You mean fiddle around because the manufacturer has arrogantly ignored a tried & tested design (a tinlet) which has been used by many because it does not suffer this problem.

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2 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

Treat them "properly"?

You mean fiddle around because the manufacturer has arrogantly ignored a tried & tested design (a tinlet) which has been used by many because it does not suffer this problem.

Arrogantly?  Wow.

 

It's a jar of paint.  Calm down

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Hi There,

 

I save Railmatch jar lids in case of serious sticking problems for last time I used a small pair of Stillson pipe grips to remove a stuck lid rather surprisingly it cracked.

 

Do remember to re-label the replacement lids though !

 

I find that gentle tapping with the plastic coated handles of my small pliers along with the hot water and tea towel trick usually works better than Stillson grips all the same.

 

Better still that I clean the lid and the top of the jar as also noted above.

 

Gibbo.

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I have never had any problem just putting some just boiled water from the kettle in an egg cup and putting the jar lid down into it for a minute or so.

 

The glass and plastic expand at different rates and it soon breaks the joint. 

Edited by t-b-g
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28 minutes ago, teacupteacup said:

Arrogantly?  Wow.

 

It's a jar of paint.  Calm down

Someone at Railmatch must have realised that a glass jar with a lid more suitable for peanut butter gets stuck on & this is why other paint manufacturers use a different design.

Refusing to refine or abandon it is arrogance.

 

What is with the calm down comment? I am just stating a fact, not getting upset about it.

 

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Thanks for everyones advice, I stood them upside down in a bowl of hot water and hey presto, off the came. Easy really! I never thought that would work on enamel paints.

Thanks once again.

Steve.

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8 minutes ago, sb67 said:

Thanks for everyones advice, I stood them upside down in a bowl of hot water and hey presto, off the came. Easy really! I never thought that would work on enamel paints.

Thanks once again.

Steve.

Works for Marmite jars too!

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I'm surprised no-one has yet mentioned the baby boa strap wrench, which is, in our kitchen, an ever-present help in time of trouble with all such problems. I don't know how to  do web links but if you type in baby boa strap wrench on ebay, you'll see what I mean. We have  the  bigger version too, the boa constrictor for super-size lids.  I've never known them fail.

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These little bu66ers tend to stick fast if you leave even a little paint around the edges.

 

The hot water trick usually works so long as it wasn't really messy when you put the lid back on.

 

Future problems can be avoided by putting a bit of cling-film about 50mm square over the jar before replacing the lid.

 

John

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I have an old pair of kitchen scissors [used to be called 'bacon scissors, for some reason?]...orange metal handles...the bit of the handle between finger 'oles and blades, is concave, with serrated edges on the insides...very useful for getting bottle tops , screw lids, etc, off....[Might be a tad old-school for those used to plastic things?]

These are similar to mine....belonged to my late Mother...and I'm nearly as old as she was when she passed away.....

Vintage-Pair-Of-Kitchen-Scissors-By-Fran

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I admire those who are able to use these jars of paints, having just about given up. The actual paint is okay, generally a good match to some RTR stock, but as soon as I open a jar for the first time the paint skins thickly from then on whatever I do, and no matter that the lids can only be removed with the hot water method....really bemuses me. Must be something I am doing wrong.

 

Izzy

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12 minutes ago, Izzy said:

I admire those who are able to use these jars of paints, having just about given up. The actual paint is okay, generally a good match to some RTR stock, but as soon as I open a jar for the first time the paint skins thickly from then on whatever I do, and no matter that the lids can only be removed with the hot water method....really bemuses me. Must be something I am doing wrong.

 

Izzy

 

 

There is one suggestion in the post referred to here.

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On 18/02/2019 at 06:12, sb67 said:

Does anybody know how I could free a couple of lids on some Railmatch Paints. They havent been used for ages and have stuck fast! Tried holding the lids in a vice but that didn't work. At the moment I've squirted WD40 around the thread hoping it will find it's way to the paint and free it. I fear I might have to break the kids off and decant the paint into another jar.

Steve.

Something of an aside but WD40 isn't a particularly good solvent. For the problem in the OP, white spirit would be better or more effective, cellulose thinners, butanone or similar.

 

WD40 was designed as a de-greaser and corrosion preventer, primarily aimed at water dispersion (hence the WD). It isn't particularly good as a penetrating oil for rusted bolts, etc., Plus Gas being far more effective. 

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16 hours ago, JeffP said:

WD40 is, however, an absolutely excellent substance for removing sticky labels and the gunk they leave behind.

 

I prefer ciggy lighter fluid for that. It evaporates quickly and is also good for cleaning crud off wheels, track, etc. when used with a cotton bud.

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19 hours ago, JeffP said:

WD40 is, however, an absolutely excellent substance for removing sticky labels and the gunk they leave behind.

 

 

And for destroying certain types of plastics that are used for electrical insulation.....

 

Andy G

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